IMAGE  EVALUATION 
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Hiotographic 

Sciences 

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CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

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CIHIVI/ICMH 
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lire 

details 
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filmage 


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Bibliothdque  nationale  du  Quebec 


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6es 


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empreinte. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  >^  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 


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dernlAre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbols  -^  signifie  "A  SUIVRE",  le 
symbols  V  signifie  "FIN". 


re 


Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  dtre 
filmte  A  des  taux  do  reduction  diffirents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  6tre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  clichi.  11  est  film6  d  partir 
de  I'angle  sup6rieur  gauche,  de  gauche  A  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  nicessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  mithode. 


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1 

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3 

32X 


1 

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6 

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♦ 


I 


THE 


S9I'/.Y. 


.ia 


.'^ 


OREGON  TERRITORY, 


AND   THE 


BRITISH  NORTH  AMERICAN  FUR  TRADE. 


WITH  AN  ACCOUNT  OF  THE  HABITS  AND  CUSTOMS  OF  THE 

PRINCIPAL  NATIVE  TRIBES  ON  THE  NORTHERN 

CONTINENT. 


BY   JOHN    DUNN, 


LATE  OF  THE  HUDSON'S  BAY  COMPANY;  EIGHT  YEARS  A 
,. ,'  liEGlfiENT  l\  Ti?E  COUNTRiV*. 


«  J  ' 


♦■•  r    i     • 


'•       « 

■        »     t,    J 


^  •     » 


»     >      •      •  •       •> 


•  I     . 


*     t-t. 


.1 i_i- 


PHILADELPHIA: 
G.   B.    ZIEBER   &   CO. 


i   •* 


1845. 


% 


ts 


> 


A     ^  '  •    • 


•  -   •'   :.  '  : 

•  »  •  "  ,  <  . ' 


C.  SHERMAN,  PRINTER 


P  K  E  F  A  C  E. 


I  SHALL  not  encumber  tlie  reader  witli  a  tedious  detail 
of  my  motives  in  publishing  this  work  ;  or  of  its  scheme 
and  plan.  This  is  a  kind  of  egotism,  and  currying  favour 
with  the  reader,  already  carried  to  great  excess.  Bat  I 
shall  state  a  few  facts — due  to  myself  to  give,  and  to  tlie 
reader  to  know. 

Having  been  articled  to  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company, 
I  Icfl  my  father's  home  in  I  ondon,  in  their  ship,  the 
Ganymede^  for  their  settlements  on  the  Pacific.  It  is 
needless  for  me  to  give  any  account  of  our  outward 
voyage  (though  I  met  with  some  strange  adventures)  to 
the  Sandwich  Islands — at  which  we  stopped  for  a  short 
time  ;  and  thence  to  the  Columbia  river.  Having  arrived 
at  the  western  head-quarters  of  the  Company — Fort  Van- 
couver ;  on  the  northern  shore  <y?  the  river,  ninety  miles 
from  its  mouth — I  was  place!  Xvx  the  fort,  in  the  situ- 
ation of  assistant  storekeeper,  liler  remaining  in  the 
fort  nearly  a  year,  I  was  commissioned  to  proceed  north- 
ward, in  the  Company's  ships,  on  trading  and  exploring 
expeditions ;  t)'  eading,  in  our  various  courses,  the  whole 
of  the  vast  labyrinth  of  gulfs,  sounds,  straits,  bays,  and 
inlets,  that  interlace  the  whole  of  the  Pacific  shore,  for 
many  hundred  miles  inland,  and  along  many  degrees  of 
latitude.  Here  I  was  in  the  character  of  trader  and  in- 
terpreter  ;  and  assisted  at  the  erection  of  several  forts  in 
various  parts  of  the  country,  never  before  occupied.  I 
then  returned  to  the  Columbia ;  and  was  placed,  for  some 
time,  in  charge  of  Fort  George,  near  the  mouth  of  the 
river — now  an  outpost  attached  to  Vancouver — the  famous 

1* 


35438 


vi 


PREFACE. 


Astoria,  so  niucli  vaunted  of  hy  the  Americans,  as  their 
settlement;  from  which  they  once  threatened,  to  use 
U'ashinjjton  Irvinj^'s  phrase,  to  "sweep  the  Pacific;"  and 
spread  their  internal  trade  thron^ih  the  C'anadas,  and  the 
IVilar  C'irelcs  ;  and  hanish  the  Jiritishns  as  traders,  if 
not  as  residents,  iVoni  tiie  whole  northern  continent — a 
hoastlul  threat,  which  they  have  sijy^nally  failed  to  cxecnte. 
They  made,  however,  every  endeavonr  to  realize  this 
most  ardent  wish  of  their  hearts,  hut  have  been  com- 
plctely  foiled.  In  place  of  being*  the  cxpellers,  they  are 
themselves,  in  a  great  measure,  the  expelled — the  result 
of  their  own  irregular  mode  of  dealing,  and  cupidity ; 
which  have  roused  against  them  the  distrust,  indignation, 
and  hatred  of  the  natives. 

Having  fqicnt  eight  years  in  the  Company's  service,  I 
was  induced,  by  my  father,  who  had  otlicr  projects  in 
store  for  me,  to  return  Iiome. 

On  my  return,  although  I  was,  from  my  knowledge  of 
those  Americans  that  traded  on  the  coast,  or  had  squatted 
in  the  southwestern  part  of  Oregon,  or  have  lately  been 
employed  by  the  Company  as  trappers,  prepared  to  hear 
any  monstrous  assumptions  of  right  set  forth  by  the 
American  populace,  through  their  loco  foco  organs  of  the 
press,  I  did  not  expect  that  tlic  respectable  portion  of  the 
press — much  less  that  their  functionaries,  and  ministers  of 
state,  even  up  to  the  president — would  echo  the  opinions 
of  the  rabble  that  controls  the  legislature.  But  to  my 
surprise,  I  found  that  tlic  subject  was  viewed  by  them 
through  the  democratic  spectacles. 

At  the  opening  of  Congress,  in  1843,  the  President, 
without  any  previous  provocation  to  the  declaration ;  but 
from  the  desire,  if  not  the  necessity,  too  characteristic  of 
American  presidents  and  governments,  of  pandering  to 
the  passions  and  feelings  of  the  multitude  from  whom 
they  derive  their  periodical  being — volunteered  the  an- 
nouncement to  the  whole  world,  that  the  whole  territory 
is  American,  and  that  American  it  will  be  preserved  and 


I>. 


PREFACE. 


vU 


as  their 

1,     to    U8C 

ific ;"  and 
»,  and  the 
radcrs,  if 
tincnt — a 
3  execute, 
ilizo  this 
ccn  coni- 
,  they  are 
:he  result 
cupidity ; 
iignation, 

service,  I 
rojects  in 

wledgc  of 

I  squatted 

,tely  been 

1  to  hear 

1  by  the 

ns  of  the 

on  of  the 

nistcrs  of 

opinions 

ut  to  my 

}y  them 

resident, 
ion ;  but 
eristic  of 
ering  to 
m  whom 
the  an. 
territory 
rved  and 


maintained,  lint  this  is  not  nu  rely  tl^e  averment  of  the 
President ;  hut  the  whole  current  of  a  most  vchnnicnt 
ilcbate  runs  in  support  of  this  fraudulent  assertion  of  a 
claim.     Says  the  President : — 

"  Tlie  territory  of  tlic  United  States,  commonly  called 
the  Oregon  territory,  lying  on  the  Pacific  ()ci;aii,  north  of 
the  42d  degree  of  latitude,  to  a  portion  of  whicli  (ireat 
Kritain  lays  claim,  begins  to  attract  the  attention  of  our 
fellow-citizens ;  and  the  tide  of  population  which  has  re- 
claimed wliat  was  lately  an  unbroken  wilderness  in  more 
contiguous  regions,  is  preparing  to  flow  over  those  vast 
districts  which  stretch  from  tlie  Rocky  Mountains  to  the 
Pacific  Ocean." 

1  published,  in  The  Times,  and  otiicr  leading  periodi- 
cals, on  tlie  appearance  of  this  document,  an  exposition 
of  the  true  facts  of  the  case.  My  statement  became  the 
subject  of  many  articles  ;  and  the  British  people  awoke 
tf»  a  true  knowledge  of  their  interests,  which  tlie  Ameri- 
cans v.'ished  to  wrest  from  tlicm.  I  shou'cd,  that  up  to 
1814,  they  never  claimed  more  than  the  right  of  joint 
occupancy — that  atler  the  Florida  treaty,  they  took  a 
bolder  tone,  and  claimed  exclusive  right — that  in  18:27, 
they  never  ventured  to  claim  beyond  the  4IHh  degree. 
But  now  tiiey  take  a  bolder  tone  still ;  and,  on  the  gambling 
principle  of  ^'all  or  notliing,"  claim  up  to  the  Russian 
tronticr. 

As  there  was  no  work  lately  publisiied  by  an  English- 
man descriptive  of  tiie  country,  and  tiie  relative  position 
of  parties  :  and  as  the  books  already  published  hyjfyinw 
American  travellers,  who  had  picked  up  tlieir  accounts 
l)iecemeal,  in  different  parts,  are  strongly  tinged  by  pre- 
judice ;  I  imagined  that  a  true  and  dispassionate  account 
of  the  whole  country  would  tend  to  place  the  question  on 
its  proper  basis.  I  thought  then — and  this  thought  was 
strengthened  by  some  judicious  friends,  who  had  seen 
I  the  several  statements  that  I  published,  and  had  examined 
I     my  rough  log-book — that  if  I  had  given  a  fair  and  dis- 


I 


M 


*.•  s 


Vlll 


PREFACE. 


pasBionatc  view  q£  the  Oregon  territory ;  and  of  the 
relative  position,  and  eocial  pretensions  of  the  contending- 
parties ;  the  British  public,  being  awakened  to  the  sub- 
Ject,  would  be  enabled  to  come  to  a  sound  judgment  on 
the  whole  question. 

Though  I  have  not  given  the  whole  amount  of  my 
notes,  I  am  persuaded  that  this  book  will  convey  a  fairer, 
and  more  concentrated  impression,  than  all  the  American 
factious  books  that  have  been  hitherto  published  on  the 
subject. 

It  is  true  that  this  book  occasionally  portrays  some 
dark  features  in  the  American  character ;  but  let  the 
reader  clearly  observe,  that  in  depicting  the  American 
character,  I  quote  American  authority  ;  and  that  in  show- 
ing the  weakness  of  their  pretensions  to  the  country,  I 
quote  historical  and  diplomatical  facts — facts  not  qucs- 
tionable  by  the  Americans  themselves. 

In  brief,  and  in  simple  truth,  my  object  is  to  give  the 
British  public  an  honest,  and,  as  to  leading  character- 
istics, a  full,  account  of  the  Oregon  country.  I  had  ano- 
thcr  object  in  view,  which  was,  to  give  an  account  of  the 
British  North  American  Fur  Trade — of  which  there  has 
been  no  consecutive  account  hitherto  given. 

'  ■  i 


THE 


OREGON  TERRITOIIY. 


AND   THE 


BRITISH  NORTH  AMERICAN  FUR  TRADE 


CHAPTER  I. 


Discovery  of  jVurtli  America  by  the  Englisli — Imporlaiico  ot 
the  fur  tr.'ulo — French  Cjirmdiun  fur  trailers — Coureiirs  des 
Hois,  or  liungers  of  the  Woods. 

The  discovery  of  America  l)y  Columbus,  and  the  great 
acquisitions  resulting'  from  it  to  Spain,  soon  awoke  a  spirit 
of  adventure  in  England :  and  an  expedition  was  fitted 
out  from  Bristol  under  the  command  of  Cabot,  a  merchant 
there,  under  the  patronage  of  Henry  VH.,  in  1497.  This 
expedition  discovered  Newfoundland,  and  sailed  along  the 
continent  from  the  coast  of  Labrador  to  that  of  Virginia. 
Thus  England  was  the  second  nation  that  visited  the 
New  World ;  and  the  nation,  the  extent  and  importance 
of  whose  possessions  have  ever  been  only  second  to  those 
of  any  other  state — Spain,  formerly,  and  the  Republic  of 
America  at  present.     Her  possessions   she   has  always 


!i!! 


14 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


l(l. 


I  ! 


made  every  effort  to  maintain ;  and  there  never  was  a 
time  when  she  was  more  imperatively  called  on  to  main- 
tain her  territories  and  her  commerce  in  that  continent 
than  she  is  now. 

The  discoveries  of  Cabot  opened  the  way  for  other 
adventurers  during-  the  next  century.  The  French,  under 
Carticr,  penetrated  as  far  as  the  island  of  Montreal,  and, 
in  1608,  founded  a  colony  in  that  district.  In  two  years 
after  (1610),  the  English  explored  Hudson's  Bay.  Both 
nations  soon  found  tliat  \n  the  cold  and  repulsive  forests 
and  plains  of  the  north  there  was  a  source  of  wealth,  if 
not  as  immediately  attractive  as  the  gold  and  silver  fur- 
nished to  the  Spaniards  in  the  genial  regions  of  the  south, 
yet  as  enduring  and  valuable  as  an  article  of  commerce 
— the  peltries  of  its  wild  animals.  This  incentive  caused 
the  wildest  and  remotest  regions  to  be  explored,  and  the 
greatest  difficulties  and  dangers  to  be  braved  and  sur- 
mounted ;  and  has  carried  in  its  course  more  civilization 
and  social  improvement  than  ever  followed  the  track  of 
those  adventurers  after  the  wealth  of  Mexico  and  Peru. 

It  was  the  fur  trade  which,  in  fact,  gave  early  suste- 
nance and  vitality  to  the  great  Canadian  provinces.  The 
adventurers  who  had  settled  on  the  banks  of  the  St. 
Lawrence,  soon  found  that  in  the  rich  peltries  of  the 
interior  they  had  sources  of  wealth  that  might  almost 
rival  the  mines  of  Mexico  and  Peru.  The  Indians,  as 
yet  unacquainted  with  the  artificial  value  given  to  some 
descriptions  of  furs  in  civilized  life,  brought  quantities  of 
the  most  precious  kinds,  and  bartered  them  away  for 
European  trinkets  and  cheap  commodities.  Immense 
profits  were  thus  made  by  the  early  traders,  and  the 
traffic  was  pursued  with  avidity.  The  pursuit  of  this 
traffic  produced  a  more  extensive  knowledge  of  the 
country — drew  the  Indians  from  their  recesses  to  the 
haunts  of  civilized  life — and  rendered  Montreal  the  centre 
of  an  extensive  trade.  Hordes  of  Indians  would  come 
down  at  stated  periods,  in  a  squadron  of  light  canoesi 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


15 


laden  with  beaver  skins,  and  other  spoils  of  their  year's 
huntinff — unload  their  canoes — draw  them  on  shore — 
form  an  encampment  outside  the  town — dispose  their 
goods  in  order,  and  o{)en  a  kind  of  fair  witli  all  tlie  grave 
ceremonial  so  dear  to  the  Indians.  An  audience  would 
be  demanded  of  the  Governor-general :  he  would  respond 
to  the  application,  and  hold  the  conference  with  becoming 
state,  seated  in  an  elbow  cliair  ;  whilst  the  Indians  were 
ranged  in  semicircles  before  him,  seated  on  the  ground, 
and  silently  smoking  their  pipes.  Speeches  would  be 
made,  —  presents  exchanged,  and  the  audience  would 
break  up  in  general  good-humour. 

Then  tlie  work  of  traffic  would  commence  with  great 
activity ;  and  all  Montreal  would  be  alive  with  naked 
Indians,  running  from  shop  to  shop,  bartering  their  com- 
modities for  arms,  knives,  axes,  kettles,  blankets,  and  va- 
rious other  articles  of  use  or  fancy ;  on  all  of  which  the 
merchants  realized  enormous  profits,  as  there  was  no 
money  used  in  this  early  traffic ;  every  transaction  being 
conducted  by  barter  in  kind. 

Their  wants  and  caprices  being  supplied,  they  would 
take  leave  of  the  (Tovernor — strike  their  tents — launch 
their  canoes,  and  ply  their  way  back  to  the  interior. 
The  supply  procured  from  these  periodical  visits  of  the 
natives  to  Montreal  was,  it  must  bo  recollected,  indepen- 
dent of  the  purchases  made  by  Canadian  adventurers  in 
tlieir  visits  through  the  interior. 

A  new  and  anomalous  class  of  men  gradually  grew  out 
of  this  primitive  state  of  the  trade.  These  were  called 
Coureurs  des  bois,  or  Rangers  ofthewoods^  being  originally 
men  who  had  accompanied  the  natives  in  their  hunting 
expeditions,  and  made  themselves  acquainted  with  remote 
tracts,  and  tribes,  and  who  now  became,  as  it  were,  ped. 
lars  of  the  wilderness.  These  men  would  set  out  from 
Montreal,  well  stocked  with  goods  suited  to  the  Indian 
tastes  and  wants,  and  with  arms  and  ammunition  for  self- 
defence,  or  for  slaying  wild  animals  for  sustenance ;  and 


i6 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


'I 


'ill: 


would  make  their  way  up  the  mazy  and  wandering  rivers 
that  interlace  the  vast  forests  and  wastes  of  the  Cunadas, 
coasting  the  most  remote  lakes ;  and  by  the  attraction  of 
their  imported  goods,  creating  new  wants  and  habitudes 
among  the  Indians ;  and  thus  spurring  them  to  renewed 
exertions  in  the  cliase,  to  procure  more  furs  and  other 
commodities.  Sometimes  these  men  would  sojourn  for 
months  among  the  natives,  assimilating  to  their  tastes 
and  habits  with  the  facility  of  Frenchmen — adopting  in 
some  degree  the  Indian  dress  and  mode  of  life,  and  not 
unfrequently  taking  to  themselves  Indian  wives.  After 
a  lapse  of  many  months,  sometimes  a  year  or  more,  they 
would  return  loaded  with  merchandise,  and  then,  after 
disposing  of  their  stock,  commence  a  career  of  reckless 
revelry  and  extravagance ;  which  not  unfrequently  ended 
in  their  ruin.  Those  who  were  able  to  hold  out  till  the 
next  season,  were  forced  upon  a  new  voyage  for  subsis- 
tence. Many  of  these  Courcurs  des  hois  became  so  ac- 
customed to  the  Indian  mode  of  living,  and  the  perfect 
freedom  of  the  wilderness,  tliat  they  lost  all  relish  for 
civilization,  and  identified  themselves  with  the  savages 
among  whom  they  dwelt;  or  could  be  distinguished  from 
them  only  by  their  superior  licentiousness,  and  by  their 
bolder  disregard  for  all  law,  order,  and  morality.  Their 
conduct  and  example  gradually  corrupted  the  natives, 
and  impeded  the  labours  of  the  Catholic  missionaries, 
who  were  at  this  time  prosecuting  their  pious  work  in 
the  wilds  of  Canada,  with  diligence  and  fervour. 

To  check  these  abuses,  and  to  protect  the  fur  trade 
from  various  irregularities  produced  by  these  loose  ad- 
venturers, an  order  was  issued  by  the  French  government, 
prohibiting  all  persons,  on  pain  of  death,  from  trading  in 
the  interior  of  the  country  without  a  license ;  and  the 
use  of  spirituous  liquors,  if  not  abolished,  was  much  re- 
stricted. 

Though  this  system  checked  for  a  time  the  licentious- 
ness of  tliese  "  wood  rangers,"  it  did  not  eventually  abo- 


•> 

» 

i 


i  I 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


17 


1^  rivers 
L'anadas, 
iction  of 
labitudes 
renewed 
nd  other 
journ  for 
nr  tastes 
opting  in 
,  and  not 
s.     After 
lore,  tliey 
hen,  after 
f  reckless 
itly  ended 
at  till  the 
or  subsis- 
ime  so  ac- 
he perfect 
relish  for 

savages 
hed  from 

by  their 
.     Their 

natives, 
isionaries, 

work  in 

fur  trade 
I  loose  ad- 
/ernment, 
[rading  in 
and  the 
Imuch  re- 

tcentious- 
lally  abo- 


i& 


lisli  it;  for  by  degrees,  according  as  the  privilege  of 
licensing  became  extended  or  relaxed,  much  of  the  abuses 
of  the  old  system  was  revived  and  continued  in  another 
form.  The  merchants  holding  the  license  frequently  em- 
ployed the  "  Coureurs  des  bois"  to  undertake  the  long 
voyages  at  a  small  per  eentage,  which  was  sufficient  to 
whet  their  cupidity,  and  urge  tliem  to  fraud  and  exaction 
in  their  dealings  with  the  Indians.  At  last  it  was  found 
necessary  to  establish  fortified  posts  for  the  protection  of 
the  trade,  and  the  restraint  of  tliese  "rangers  of  the 
woods."  The  most  important  of  these  was  at  the  Strait 
of  Michilemackinac,  which  connects  lakes  Huron  and 
Michigan.  This  w  as  a  depot  for  the  merchandise,  and  a 
rendezvous  for  the  traders.  It  is  unnecessary  to  pursue 
farther  a  picture  of  the  French-Canadian  traders ;  but  I 
may  sum  up  by  saying,  that  the  French-Canadian  mer- 
chant, in  those  primitive  days  of  Canada,  was  at  his 
trading-post  a  kind  of  commercial  patriarch,  surrounded 
with  his  Indian  wives  and  children,  and  a  numerous  train 
of  dependants  living  in  a  rude  indulgence. 


CHAPTER  II. 

Hudson's  Bay  Company — Its  incorporation,  and  its  privileges. 

Tins  company  was  incorporated  in  perpetuity  by  Royal 
Charter,  granted  a.  d.  1670,  in  the  tvventy-second  year  of 
the  reign  of  Charles  II.  The  Charter  was  granted  after 
much  consideration  of  the  national  and  commercial  ad- 
vantages of  such  a  society ;  and  it  was  granted  to  men 
who  had  obtained  no  little  distinction  at  that  time.  From 
the  large  space  which  this  company  now  deservedly  holds 
in  the  commercial  relations  of  Great  Britain — the  great 
power  it  has  acquired  through  its  liberal  and  well  regu- 
lated government,  and  through  the  enterprise,  zeal,  and 

2* 


t8 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


('  I  • 


lili! 


h 


I 


I ; 


i' 


!l 


skill  of  its  functionaries,  it  may  not  be  uninteresting-  to 
detail  the  names  of  the  original  corporators,  and  the  ob- 
ject and  terms  of  the  Charter. 

It  was  granted  to  "  Prince  Rupert,  the  Duke  of  Albe- 
marle, the  Earl  of  Craven,  Lords  Arlington  and  Ashley ; 
Sirs  John  Robinson,  Robert  Vyner,  Peter  Colleton,  Ed- 
ward Hungerford,  Paul  Nerlc,  John  Griffith,  and  Piiilip 
Carteret ;  to  James  Hoyes,  John  Kirke,  Francis  Milling- 
ton,  William  Prettyman,  and  John  Fenn,  Esqrs. ;  and  to 
John  Portman,  citizen  and  goldsmith  of  the  city  of  Lon- 
don ;"  giving  them  and  their  successors  the  sole  com- 
merce and  trade  of  all  those  seas,  bays,  creeks,  rivers, 
lakes,  &c.,  in  whatsoever  latitude  they  shall  be,  that  lie 
within  the  entrance  of  Hudson's  Straits ;  together  with 
all  the  lands,  trade,  fisheries,  mines,  minerals,  &/C.,  on 
the  confines  of  those  seas,  bays,  lakes,  and  rivers,  if  not 
then  possessed  by  any  British  subjects,  or  by  the  subjects 
of  any  otlier  Christian  prince  or  state.  In  a  word,  all 
those  countries  whose  waters  run  into  Hudson's  Bay 
were  included  in  the  Ciiarter.  The  reason  for  creating 
this  chartered  corporation  is  stated  to  be,  that  those  indi- 
viduals  did  at  their  own  cost  undertake  an  expedition  to 
Hudson's  Bay,  for  the  discovery  and  prosecution  of  a 
trade  in  furs,  minerals,  and  other  important  commodities; 
and  by  such  undertaking  made  such  discoveries  as  may 
be  of  great  advantage  to  the  kingdom. 

The  management  of  the  corporation  (which  was  in- 
vested with  the  usual  corporate  privileges,  of  possessing, 
and  transmitting  to  their  successors,  lands,  rents,  juris- 
dictions, &.C.,  and  were  to  direct  the  voyages  and  ex- 
ploring excursions,  and  the  sale  of  merchandise),  was 
centred  in  a  Governor  and  Committee  of  seven.  Prince 
Rupert  was  the  first  Governor ;  and  the  first  Committee 
consisted  of  Sirs  J.  Robinson,  Robert  Vyner,  and  Peter 
Colleton;  with  Messrs.  Hoyes,  Kirke,  Millington,  and 
Portman. 

The  Governor  (or  deputy-governor  for  the  time  being), 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


19 


osting  to 
d  the  ob- 

of  Albc- 
I  Ashley ; 
eton,  Ed- 
^d  Philip 
J  Milling- 
i. ;  and  to 
y  of  Lon- 
solc  com- 
ks,  rivers, 
c,  that  lie 
ithcr  witli 
!!,  &c.,  on 
ers,  if  not 
ic  subjects 
L  word,  all 
son's  Bay 
:  creating 
hose  indi- 
edition  to 
Ltion  of  a 
imodities ; 
s  as  may 

h  was  in- 
lossessing, 
Ints,  jaris- 
|s  and  ex- 

lise),  was 
Prince 
Committee 

md  Peter 
Ijrton,  and 


4 


with  the  Committee,  were  to  be  appointed  annually  by 
(.'lection  among  the  members ;  and  W(>re  removable  i:i 
case  of  misconduct.  The  whole  of  this  vast  and  uiuU- 
fined  region  was  to  be  reckoned  as  one  of  his  Majesty's 
Colonics,  and  was  called  Prince  Rupert's  Land.  Tlic 
(Governor  and  the  Company  were  to  be  lords  proprietors 
of  tlie  same  for  ever ;  empowered  to  make  laws  for  the 
good  government  of  the  territory  and  the  advancement  of 
trade;  to  impose  penalties  and  punisliments,  provided, 
however,  that  they  were  not  unreasonable,  and  repugnant 
to  the  Laws  of  England. 

No  subject  of  the  British  Crown  was  to  be  allowed  to 
trade  within  the  Company's  territories  without  their 
written  and  sealed  permission,  under  penalty  of  a  for- 
feiture of  the  merchandise  embarked :  neitiier  was  even 
a  royal  license  to  trade  to  be  given  to  any  one  without 
tlie  Company's  consent.  As  a  proof  of  tlie  wealtli  and 
importance  of  the  Company,  even  in  its  infancy,  it  may 
be  stated,  that  stock  to  the  amount  of  o/ie  hundred  pounds 
(a  large  sum  in  those  days,  if  we  consider  the  relative 
value  of  money  then  and  now)  formed  the  qualification 
for  the  possession  of  even  a  single  vote.  Individuals 
were  allowed  a  plurality  of  votes  in  proportion  to  their 
possession  of  funded  property  in  the  concern. 

The  Company  were  empowered  to  appoint  district 
governors,  and  other  officers,  to  judge  in  all  cases,  civil 
and  criminal,  according  to  the  Laws  of  Ec'gland. 

They  were  also  empowered  to  grant  lands — give  com- 
mercial privileges — build  towns — employ,  for  the  protec- 
tion of  their  trade  and  territory,  armed  force — appoint 
commanders,  and  erect  forts,  &c.  They  were  empowered, 
also,  to  transport  to  England  all  British  subjects  found 
trading  in  their  territory,  without  their  permission ;  and 
furthermore  all  admirals,  and  other  officers  of  the  crown, 
were  enjoined  to  lend  their  aid  in  assisting  the  execution 
of  the  powers  granted  to  the  Company  by  the  Charter. 

Such  is  an  outline  of  the  privileges  and  powers  granted 


:»■,'■ 


SO 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


'i:i: 


iii.i 


'U' 


i'r 


■r  ' 


! 


i  '  !' 


to  the  greatest  commercial  association  that  ever  appeared 
in  Enf,^land,  next  to  the  East  India  Company:  an  associa- 
tion tliat  has  kept  on  the  even  tenor  of  its  useful  and 
prosperous  course,  ditlusing  wealth  at  home,  and  spread- 
ing- civilization  ahroad  —  ransacking  the  wildest,  the 
dreariest,  and  most  ungcnial  regions  of  the  earth  to  pro- 
vide  comfort  and  luxury  and  wealth  for  the  people  of 
England  ;  and  pointing-  out  to  the  benighted  savage  the 
means  of  improvement,  comfort,  and  haj)piness. 

Thougli  tiiere  were  associations  formed  by  French 
Canadians  for  the  beaver  trade  so  early  as  1630,  yet  the 
French  had  no  actual  or  permanent  establishments,  nor 
did  they  claim  the  right  of  occupation  of  any  portion  of 
the  interior.  It  appears,  from  the  history  of  Father 
Charlevoix  and  Hennepin,  that,  for  some  years  after  the 
date  of  the  Charter,  the  French  had  no  established 
trading  posts  even  as  far  as  Lake  Superior  ;  neither  had 
they  any  established  possessions  in  the  vicinity  of  Hud- 
son's Bay.  So  that  the  terms  of  the  grant  did  not  in- 
terfere with  any  previous  right  of  others. 

Whatever  pretensions  may  have  been  made  by  the 
French  subsequently  to  the  Charter  to  any  portion  of  that 
extensive  region,  they  were  completely  set  aside  on  the 
conquest  of  Canada ;  and  then  the  jurisdiction  and  pos- 
sessions of  the  Company  were  confirmed,  in  all  their 
former  plenitude.  Even  after  the  establishment  of 
American  Independence,  none  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  ter- 
ritories, or  of  the  waters  running  into  Hudson's  Bay, 
were  included  in  the  lines  assigned  as  the  boundaries  be- 
tween the  possessions  of  Great  Britain  and  those  of  the 
United  States.  By  the  treaty  of  1794,  which  permits 
the  most  perfect  freedom  of  intercourse  and  communica- 
tion between  the  subjects  of  both  nations  throughout  their 
respective  dominions,  an  exception  is  madeof  the  country 
within  the  limits  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  (to  be 
ascertained  in  conformity  with  their  Charter),  from  which 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


21 


appeared 
1  iissocia- 
scful  and 
id  spread- 
Idest,  the 
th  to  pro- 
people  of 
avage  the 

y  French 
iO,  yet  the 
ncnts,  nor 
portion  of 
of  Father 
s  after  the 
istablishcd 
either  had 
y  of  Hud- 
id  not  in- 

le   by  the 
[on  of  that 
Ic  on  the 
and  pos- 
all  their 
liment    of 
Bay  ter- 
in's  Bay, 
laries  be- 
►se  of  the 
permits 
munica- 
lout  their 
|e  country 
ly  (to  be 
im  which 


the  Americans  are  expressly  excluded.  In  fine,  the 
Charter  lias  been  sanctioned  by  various  subsequent  Acts 
of  Parliament,  and  by  treaties  of  peace. 


CHAPTER  HI. 

British-Canadian  fur  trade — Establishment  of  the  Northwest 
Company — Its  organization  and  operations — Rivalry  between 
it  and  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company. 

For  a  long  series  of  years  the  French  Canadian  traders 
found  active  competitors  in  tlie  Britisli ;  and  on  the  con- 
quest of  that  country,  in  17G2,  they  became  nearly  ex- 
tinct, the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  and  other  British 
traders,  monopolizing  almost  the  whole  fur  commerce  of 
North  America.  In  a  ihw  years  the  Canadian  trade 
beg-an  to  revive,  but  under  British  mercliants  and  under 
a  different  system.  Tlic  old  French  system  of  licenses 
was  abolished,  as  inconsistent  with  the  principles  of  free 
trade  ;  and  spirituous  liquors  were  allowed  as  an  article  of 
barter,  from  a  knowledge  of  the  ungovernable  propensity 
of  the  Indians  to  that  luxury,  which  they  would  make 
any  sacrifice  of  property  to  obtain. 

Various  expeditions  were  fitted  out  by  separate  indi- 
viduals, and  sometimes  by  separate  rival  partners,  who 
pursued  their  own  interests  ivithout  fear  or  scruple,  and 
seemed  to  have  only  two  objects  in  view, — their  own  ad- 
vantage  and  the  injury  of  tiieir  competitors.  The  con- 
sequences  were,  licentiousness,  feuds,  and  excesses  of 
every  kind  in  those  regions  far  distant  from  the  reacli  of 
ail  legal  restraint.  The  Indians,  too,  by  intoxication,  and 
tiie  vicious  example  and  incentives  of  the  Coiireurs  des 
liois^  and  other  agents,  became  quarrelsome,  knavish,  and 
reckless.  At  last,  the  natives,  who  were  engaged  by  dif- 
ferent contending  parties  to  attack  each  other,  threatened 


dd 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


j;i 


ir/: 
i'l 


1  !' 


Il^r 


!'ll^ 


I- 


i;  ' 


i;i 


,ii 


(!■■ 


tH 


!      1    h 


to  make  common  cause  and  extirpate  the  traders.  These 
accumulated  evils,  tlie  result  of  excessive  competition, 
broujrht  the  trade  to  the  lowest  chl),  and  to  save  it  from 
ruin  s(!verai  eminent  mercliants  formed  a  junction,  to 
carry  it  on  in  partnership,  in  1783.  This  plan  seemed  to 
work  well ;  and  similar  associations  were  subsequently 
formed  with  success.  At  last  there  was  an  amalgamation 
of  all  in  one  grand  association ;  and  this  was  formed  in 
180.5,  the  famous  Northwest  Company,  which  for  many 
years  exercised  so  much  power,  and  threatened  the  de- 
struction of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  which  had  been 
chartered  since  1670. 

The  management  of  this  Company  was  vested  in 
partners,  who  had  various  trading-posts  established  far 
and  wide  tlirough  the  interior.  Several  of  the  partners 
resided  in  Montreal  and  Quebec  to  manage  the  affairs  of 
the  Company  ;  they  were  called  agents,  and  were  persons 
of  great  importance  :  the  other  partners  took  their  stations 
at  tlie  interior  posts,  where  tliey  remained  tliroughout  the 
winter,  to  superintend  the  intercourse  with  the  various 
tribes  of  Indians,  and  were  called  winter ing.partners, 
TJic  goods  destined  for  this  wide  and  wandering  traffic 
with  the  Indians  were  stored  in  tlie  Company's  ware- 
houses in  Montreal,  and  tliencc  conveyed  by  boats  up  the 
numerous  rivers  and  lakes  that  intersect  this  vast  region, 
and  by  portages,  or  land-carriage  ways.*  Thovigh  this 
Company  was  at  first  but  a  spontaneous  association  of 
merchants,  yet  w^hen  it  became  regularly  organized,  ad- 
mission into  it  became  extremely  difficult.  A  candidate 
had  to  undergo  a  long  probation,  and  to  rise  slowly  by 
his  merits.      He  began  at  an  early  age  as  clerk,  and 


*  It  must  be  observed,  that  portage  means  a  land-car- 
riage way,  when,  in  consequence  of  the  impracticability 
of  the  rivers,  from  cataracts,  or  other  obstructions,  canoes, 
goods,  and  all  must  be  borne  overland,  until  another 
navigable  part  be  reached. 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


23 


.    These 
ipctition, 

0  it  from 
iction,  to 
iccmcd  to 
scquently 
jrainatioii 
fbrmeci  in 
for  many 
id  the  de. 

1  had  been 

vested    in 
)lislied  far 
c  partners 
c  affairs  of 
3re  persons 
sir  stations 
uffhout  tlic 
he  various 
r.partners. 
inj^  traffic 
ly's  ware- 
lats  up  the 
|ast  region, 
,iough  this 
ciation  of 
nizcd,  ad- 
candidatc 
slowly  by 
;lcrk,  and 

land-car- 

^cticability 

»s,  canoes, 

til  another 


served  an  apprenticeship  of  seven  years,  for  wliicli,  bc- 
sidt's  his  clothinjr,  equipment,  and  expenses,  ho  received 
.£100.  His  probation  was  jrencrally  passed  in  the  interior 
trad ing-- posts,  subject  to  all  the  uncertainties  and  hard- 
ships inei<lental  to  a  life  in  so  wild  a  re;:j;ion.  When  he 
had  served  Iiis  apprenticeship,  he  received  a  salary  com- 
mensurate with  his  deserts,  and  was  elifrilde  to  a  j)artner- 
ship  in  tlic  Company,  tliouyh  years,  perliaps  his  lilc,  may 
have  passed  away  before  he  attained  that  object  of  l»is 
toils  and  ambition.  Most  of  the  clerks  were  youn£r  men 
of^ood  families  from  Scotland, — thrifty,  hardy,  b(  M,  and 
persevering-,  and  generally  well  calculated  for  tlic  dittieult 
duties  they  were  required  lo  discharge.  The  principal 
partners,  or //fi'ewfs,  who  resided  in  Montreal  and  Quebec, 
formed  a  kind  of  conmicrcial  aristocracy.  From  early 
associations,  and  a  community  of  pursuit  and  interest, 
the  partners  were  closely  banded  together ;  and  their 
union,  energy,  and  wealth,  gave  them  great  influence 
with  the  government,  which  often  procured  immunity  ibr 
crimes  committed  by  their  officials  and  servants. 

They  held  a  general  meeting  every  summer  at  Fort 
William,  near  the  grand  portage,  at  the  northwestern 
extremity  of  Lake  Superior.  Here  they  discussed  and 
arranged  the  affairs  of  the  preceding  year,  and  laid  down 
the  plans  of  operation  for  the  next.  Here  too  the  clerks, 
and  principal  servants,  assembled  to  receive  their  instruc- 
tions ;  and  a  succession  of  festivities  was  kept  up  for 
several  days.  No  system  could  be  better  devised  to  infuse 
activity  into  every  department,  and  spread  the  influence 
of  the  Company  ;  and  some  idea  may  be  formed  of  the 
extensive  range  which  their  operations  embraced,  from 
the  circumstance  that,  in  the  plenitude  of  their  power, 
they  employed  no  less  than  two  thousand  voyageurs^  or 
boatmen,  at  average  wages  of  forty  pounds  a  year  each. 
They  extended  the  fur  trade  into  regions  previously  un- 
explored,  and  opened  new  and  extensive  markets  for  the 
commercial  industry,  enterprise,  and  manufacturing  in- 


— .^HMlBadi 


24 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


I  1 1 


i:!: 

m 


If 


Hi 


diistry  of  thr  empire,  and  so  took  formal  and  permanent 
j>08Hession  of  districts  not  occupied  hy  the  subjects  of  any 
other  power,  amonjo;'  which  the  most  important  was 
Cohmibia. 

The  impetus,  and  ahnost  new  cliaractcr  whicli  they 
g^avo  to  tlic  prosecution  of  the  fur  trade — their  encroach- 
ments on  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  whom  they  not 
merely  wished  to  outrival,  but  determined  to  crush — their 
subsequent  amalgamation  with  that  Company;  and  the 
p^reat  and  lasting-  influence  which  this  amalgamation  has 
had  for  commercial  good,  render  it  necessary  to  enter 
.somewhat  into  detail  on  their  proceedings. 

There  were  three  distinct  differences  between  the  two 
Companies  which  deserve  to  be  noticed.  The  Hudson's 
Bay  C'ompany  had  received  a  royal  ;nrrant,  confirmed  by 
Acts  of  Parliament,  of  the  vast  extent  of  territory  within, 
or  l)')rdering  on,  all  the  waters  that  run  into  Hudson's 
Bay.  It  is  true  the  limits  were  not  strictly  defined,  but 
they  were  intelligible.  Having,  within  their  own  terri- 
tories, ample  range  lor  the  pursuit  of  their  trade,  they 
had  no  incentive  for  encroachment  on  foreign  territory. 
llui  the  Northwest  Company,  being-  a  voluntary  associa- 
tion, had  no  field  of  operation  to  which  they  could  la} 
any  legal  claim, — they  were  barely  tolerated  by  the  law ; 
and  were  therefore  obliged  to  try  their  fortune  wherever 
t'ley  could. 

2d.  Tiic  general  practice  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Com- 
pany was  to  remain  at  their  factories  on  the  coast :  to 
these  the  natives  resorted  from  the  interior  to  trade, 
coming  down  the  lakes  and  rivers  in  spring  to  dispose  ot 
the  produce  of  the  winter  hunt,  and  returning"  in  autumn 
with  their  supplies  of  English  manufacture,  which  they 
received  in  exchange.  But  the  Northwest  Company, 
having  no  such  established  marts,  their  servants  pene- 
trated the  very  recesses  of  the  wilderness,  where  the} 
established  stations,  and  huckstered  with  the  natives  at 
their  homes. 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


25 


ccn  the  two 
ic  Hudson's 
onfirincd  by 
tory  within, 
to  Hudson's 
defined,  but 
•  own  terri- 

tradc,  they 
yn  territory, 
ary  associa- 
3y  could  la\ 

by  the  law ; 
nc  wherever 

Bay  Com- 
le  coast :  to 
yr  to  trade, 
o  dispose  ot 
<■  in  autumn 
which  they 
,  Company, 
vants  pene- 
where  the) 
J  natives  at 


3d.  The  officers  and  servants  of  tlic  Hudson's  Bay 
Company  were  paid  regular  salaries ;  were  confined  to 
certain  localities,  and  had  a  prescribed  routine  of  duty  to 
perform.  But  the  officials  of  the  Northwest  Company 
were  very  diffi^rently  circumstanced :  they  were  all,  from 
the  nature  of  their  engagements,  and  a  principle  of  self- 
interest,  speculators,  and  sons  of  enterprise.  They  be- 
came  valuable  to  the  Company  only  in  proportion  to  the 
success  of  their  exertions,  and  on  this  depended  their 
reward  and  their  hopes.  Sometimes,  indeed,  the  officials 
of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  were  sent  into  the  interior, 
hut  this  was  an  exception,  not  a  rule  :  whereas,  the 
general  rule  of  the  Northwest  Company  was  to  despatch 
their  agents  into  the  interior,  and  any  location  at  head- 
quarters was  the  exception. 

The  Northwest  Company  having  been  fully  organized 
and  prepared  for  operation,  they  proceeded  at  once  to 
business  with  great  promptitude  and  vigour ;  and  though 
they  were,  it  must  be  owned,  not  very  scrupulous  as  to 
means,  yet  they  effected  themselves,  or  were  the  primary 
cause  in  effecting,  great  objects.  Before  their  time,  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company  was  ignorant  of  the  localities 
and  capabilities  of  even  its  own  territories ;  but  now, 
since  its  range  of  knowledge  has  been  enlarged,  and  its 
spirit  of  trade  invigorated,  by  its  fusion  with  the  North, 
west  Company,  the  entire  of  the  northern  continent  has 
been  explored,  from  the  confines  of  Canada  and  California 
to  the  Pole;  and  all  its  resources  discovered.  The  Nortli- 
west  Company  also  performed  great  services  to  the  Inu 
perial  Government  during  the  late  American  war,  by  the 
employment  of  their  servants  and  treasures,  and  their 
zeal  in  rousing  the  Indians.  i 

The  trade  of  the  old  Hudson's  Bay  Company  was  ge- 
nerally carried  on  with  ease,  quietness,  honesty,  and  re- 
gularity.  They  had  well-understood  engagements  with 
the  Indians,  which  were  on  both  sides  punctually  ful- 
filled ;  and  on  both  sides  there  was  confidence  and  trust. 

3 


2G 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


'<!! 


The  Company  often  gave  poods  in  advance,  and  tiic 
Indians  never  imag'incd  that  the  visits  of  the  white  man 
would  be  attended  with  perfidy  or  pillage. 

As  a  proof  of  Indian  good  faith,  it  may  be  sufficient  to 
state,  that  in  the  year  1775,  Mr.  Frobisiier,  a  Canadian 
enterpriser,  having-  penetrated  into  the  regions  previously 
unexplored  by  his  countrymen,  met  a  party  of  Indians, 
with  their  canoes  full  of  valuable  furs,  bound  for  Fort 
Churcliill,  one  of  the  factories  at  Hudson^s  Bay,  and  that 
he  found  great  difficulty  in  inducing  them  to  deal  with 
him,  even  for  a  small  portion.  The  difficulty  was,  that 
they  were  going  to  fulfil  their  engagements,  in  paying  a 
contracted  debt,  for  whicii  their  cargo  was  but  little  more 
than  an  equivalent.  A  few  years  after,  a  Mr.  Pond,  who 
wintered  among  them,  having  collected  a  greater  quan. 
tity  of  furs  than  he  could  carry  away  at  a  time,  left  the 
surplus  in  his  hut ;  and  on  his  return  next  season,  found 
them  undisturbed.  Such  was  Indian  integrity  at  that 
time  !  But  one  of  the  first  eflTorts  made  by  the  North- 
west Company  was  to  break  up  that  slow  mode  of  com- 
merce, and  introduce  a  quick,  haphazard,  and  exciting 
sort  of  traffic  among  the  Indiahs  at  their  homes.  This 
plan,  from  the  natural  indolence  of  the  natives,  unwilling 
to  undergo  the  toils  and  perils  of  long  journeys,  and  from 
their  appetite  for  spirituous  liquors,  introduced  as  an 
article  of  barter,  succeeded.  The  Company  for  a  time, 
obtained  an  abundance  of  furs ;  but  this  abundance  led 
to  want. 

The  best  season  for  hunting  the  fur-bearing  animals  is 
winter,  when  the  fur  is  in  its  prime.  In  summer,  the 
flir  is  of  inferior  quality;  and  this,  too,  is  the  season 
when  they  rear  their  young.  For  both  reasons  it  was 
desirable  that  the  hunting  should  be  suspended  during 
the  summer  months.  Accordingly,  the  summer  season 
was  selected  for  the  distant  voyages  of  the  hunters  to  the 
Iludson^s  Bay  Company's  factories,  for  the  purposes  of 
traffic.    Under  this  system,  no  furs  were  brought  home 


OREOON  TERRITORY. 


27 


:c,  and  tlic 
'■  white  man 

sufHcicnt  to 
a  Canadian 
9  previously 
of  Indians-, 
nd  for  Fort 
ly,  and  that 
:o  deal  vvitii 
ty  was,  that 
n  paying  a 
t  little  more 
.  Pond,  who 
reater  quan. 
ime,  left  the 
sason,  found 
ity  at  that 
the  North- 
)de  of  com- 
nd  exciting 
mes.  This 
,  unwilling 
s,  and  from 
iced  as  an 
or  a  time, 
mdancc  led 

animals  is 
[immer,  the 
the  season 
ions  it  was 
ied  during 
Tier  season 
iters  to  the 
mrposes  of 
ught  home 


I 


but  Ihmt'  of  the  best  quality ;  and  as  the  breed  was  pre- 
served darin<(  suininer,  the  supply  was  plentiful.  IJut 
when  the  servants  of  the  Northwest  Company  went  to 
residr  in  the  infrrior,  the  natives  were  tempted  to  aban- 
don thtir  commerce  H'ith  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company, 
and  to  deal  wilh  them,  in  the  prosjwct  of  8Ui)erior  advan- 
tage. They  accordingly  continued  the  hunt  throughout 
the  year,  and  killed  tlie  cub  and  the  full-grown  beaver 
alike.  To  aggravate  this  evil,  the  Company,  dissatisfied 
with  even  this  supply,  employed  young  men  from  the 
Indian  villages  in  Canada,  to  go  into  the  interior  as 
hunters,  paying  them  at  a  stipulated  rate  for  the  furs 
procured.  These,  having  no  families  to  maintain,  and 
Itaving  no  other  employment  to  pursue,  and  having  be. 
sides  no  interest  in  preserving  the  breed  of  lucrative  nni- 
mals,  destroyed  them  indiscriminately — young  and  old — 
in  season  and  out  of  season.  The  consequence  was,  that 
districts,  which  once  yielded  those  valuable  animals  in 
abundance  were  nearly  stripped  of  them ;  and  that  the 
home  market  was  drugged — (and  while  such  a  system  is 
suffered  to  continue,  must  ever  be  drugged) — with  inferior 
articles.  The  miserable  natives  at  last  saw  the  impend- 
ing ruin : — they  murmured,  but  dared  not  resist. 

It  was  necessary  for  the  maintenance  of  this  Com- 
pany's  monopoly  throughout  a  vast  extent  of  the  most 
valuable  beaver  countries,  that  they  should  employ  a 
great  retinue  of  servants — greater  than  the  legitimate 
profits  of  the  trade  could  afford — and  to  allow  them  osten- 
sibly high  wages.  But  in  reality  the  wages  were  low, 
for  the  Company  reimbursed  themselves  by  speculating 
on  the  extravagance,  dissipation,  and  necessities  of  their 
dependants;  for  at  every  station  they  kept  a  sort  of  tally- 
shop  for  credit,  where  the  men  were  obliged  to  purchase 
all  the  articles  they  required  at  an  exorbitantly  high 
price.  As  these  were  generally  a  reckless  race,  and  had 
credit  to  the  amount  of  their  wages,  and  even  more,  they 
were  unable  to  hoard  any  provision  for  their  old  age,  or 


28 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


iM: 


j'i'  ■! 
Ill;  ' 


■lili!!! 


ft' 


i'i,!ii 


:  'i 


§ 


il 


for  their  families,  who  were  left  in  a  state  of  destitution. 
The  consequence  was,  that  they  were  constantly  in  debt, 
and  in  a  state  of  bondage  to  their  employors,  there  being 
no  alternative  left  them  but  a  periodical  return  to  their 
employment  on  the  terms  prescribed  to  them,  or  a  jail. 

From  one  article,  a  judgment  may  be  formed  of  the 
rest.  They  were  much  addicted  to  the  use  of  spirituous 
liquors,  which,  independently  of  the  luxury  and  gratifica- 
tion, were  in  some  measure  necessary ;  considering  the 
severity  of  their  labours,  and  the  nature  of  the  climate. 
Spirits  which  cost  the  Company  at  Montreal  little  more 
than  two  dollars  per  gallon,  were  sold  in  the  interior  to 
their  servants  at  eight  dollars  per  quart !  So  that  when 
a  servant  became  addicted  to  drinking  spirits,  the  Com- 
pany sustained  no  loss  by  adding  £20  to  his  wages.  An- 
other cause  of  keeping  the  servants  in  debt  and  subjec- 
tion, was  the  circulation  of  a  depreciated  currency,  called 
Northwest  Currency^  in  the  interior,  in  which  money  was 
reckoned  only  at  one  half  the  value  it  bore  in  Canada. 
The  men  who  were  engaged  at  Montreal  had  their  wages 
calculated  according  to  the  established  legal  currency, 
but  every  article  which  they  received  in  the  interior  was 
charged  according  to  the  Northwest  Currency.  The 
Company  also  continued  to  bring  the  Indians  within  their 
power,  by  speculating  on  their  necessities.  Those  who 
inhabited  the  more  sterile  parts  of  the  country,  to  the 
east  of  Lake  Winnipeg,  and  also  to  the  north,  on  Church- 
hill  river,  and  in  Athabasca,  which  are  rocky  and  full  of 
swamps,  well  adapted  for  the  habitation  of  the  beaver, 
but  scanty  of  buffalo  and  game,  were  poor,  scattered,  and 
consequently  timid  and  feeble.  From  these  the  most 
valuable  furs  were  obtained,  and  these  the  Company  inti- 
midated to  deal  with  themselves  exclusively. 

After  the  complete  organization  of  the  Northwest  Com- 
pany and  the  expulsion  of  all  private  speculators  from  the 
fur-trade  of  Canada,  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  became 
their  only  rival  to  the  north  and  west  of  Lake  Superior. 


-I 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


29 


destitution, 
tly  in  debt, 
there  bcin^ 
rn  to  their 
3r  a  jail, 
med  of  the 
i"  spirituous 
d  gratifica- 
Idering  the 
he  climate, 
little  more 
interior  to 
>  that  when 
s,  the  Com- 
ages.  An- 
md  subjec- 
3ncy,  ealled 
money  was 
in  Canada, 
heir  wages 
currency, 
nterior  was 
ncy.  The 
(rithin  their 
Those  who 
itry,  to  the 
on  Church- 
and  full  of 
he  beaver, 
ttered,  and 
the  most 
npany  inti- 

iwest  Com- 
rs  from  the 
ny  became 
e  Superior. 


From  that  time  the  hostile  spirit  which  had  been  fostered 
for  years  among  the  clerks  and  servants  of  the  old  rival 
Companies  that  became  now  fused  into  one  great  whole 
in  the  Northwest  Company,  was  all  concentrated  against 
the  Hudson's  Bay  Company ;  and  a  systematic  plan  not 
only  was  formed  to  drive  their  servants  out  of  all  the  va- 
luable beaver  countries ;  but  hopes  were  entertained  of 
reducing  that  Company  to  so  low  an  ebb,  as  in  time  to 
induce  them  to  transfer  their  chartered  rights  to  their 
formidable  competitors.  As  the  contests  between  these 
powerful  rivals  filled  a  large  space  in  the  commercial 
transactions  of  British  America,  and  as  they  eventually 
led  to  a  g'oat  result — the  absorption  of  the  Northwest 
Company  in  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  and  the  un- 
divided sway  of  tlie  latter  association — it  is  necessary  to 
mention  a  few  instances  out  of  a  long  series  of  aggres- 
sions, in  order  to  convey  an  idea  of  the  mode  of  conduct- 
ing commercial  competition,  when  a  spirit  of  self-interest 
prevailed,  in  regions  remote  from  the  restraints  of  esta- 
blished law. 

In  1806,  Mr.  W.  Corrigal,  a  trader  in  the  service  of 
the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  was  stationed  with  a  few 
men  at  a  place  called  Bad  Lake,  within  the  limit  of  Albany 
Factory  (in  the  Hudson's  Bay  territory),  and  near  a  post 
occupied  by  a  much  larger  body  of  men  commanded  by 
Mr.  Haldane,  a  partner  in  the  Northwest  Company. 
Five  of  the  Canadians  in  his  service,  watching  their  op- 
portunity, broke  into  Mr.  Corrigal's  house  at  night,  when 
he  and  his  men  were  in  bed.  They  immediately  secured 
all  the  fire-arms  they  could  find,  and,  threatening  to  shoot 
Mr.  Corrigal  if  he  made  any  resistance,  rifled  the  store- 
house, and  took  away  four  hundred  and  eighty  beaver 
nkins.  Corrigal  soon  after  went  to  Haldane,  and  de- 
manded ti. ,  restoration  of  the  property.  Haldane  an- 
swered that  "  he  came  for  furs,  and  furs  he  was  deter- 
mined  to  have."  These  furs  were  afterwards  carried  to 
the  grand  portage,  and  formed  a  part  of  the  Company's 

3* 


30 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


■1 
I'll 


Ill:'' 


lit 
;i  II 


III 


returns  for  that  year.  A  similar  attack  was  made  in 
the  same  year  on  another  station,  at  the  Red  Lake,  also 
under  the  charge  of  Mr.  Corrigal,  and  fifty  beaver  skins, 
together  witli  a  large  quantity  of  cloth,  brandy,  tobacco, 
ammunition,  &-c.,  carried  off. 

In  the  autumn  of  this  year,  J.  Crear,  a  trader  in  the 
service  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  (also  on  the  es- 
tablishment of  Albany  Factory,)  occupied  a   post  with 
five  men  at  Big  Fall,  near  Lake  Winnipeg.     One  even- 
ing a  party  of  Canadians,  under  the  command  of  Mr. 
Alexander   M'Donnell,  then  a  clerk  of  the   Northwest 
Company,  encamped  at  a  short  distance.    On  the  follow- 
ing morning  M'Donnell  and  his  party  came  to  Crear's 
liouse,  in  the  absence  of  four  of  his  men,  and,  charging 
him  with  having  traded  furs  from  an  Indian  who  was 
indebted  to  the  Northwest  Company,  insisted  on  tlieir 
being   given  up  to  him.     Crear  refused ;  and  on  this, 
McDonnell  broke  open  the  warehouse,  and  struck  Crear 
in  the  face  with  the  butt-end  of  his  gun,  inflicting  on 
him  a  severe  wound,  and  stabbed  his  remaining  servant 
in  the  arm  with  a  dagger.    They  then  carried  off  the 
furs,  a  quantity  of  provisions,  and  a  canoe.     On  the  fol- 
lowing February,  one  of  M'Donnell's  assistants,  at  tlie 
head  of  a  party,  attacked  Crear's  house,  beat  him  and 
Iiis  men,  and  carried  off  a  great  number  of  valuable  furs. 
They  then  compelled  Crear,  with  threats  of  instant  death, 
to  sign  a  paper  acknowledging  that  he  voluntarily  gave 
up  the  furs,  as  not  being  properly  his. 

On  another  occasion,  William  Link  water,  in  the  ser- 
vice of  the  Hudson*s  Bay  Company,  was  returning  to  his 
station  at  Reindeer  Lake,  bringing  on  a  sledge  a  quan- 
tity of  valuable  furs,  which  he  had  traded  from  tlie  In- 
dians. He  was  met,  near  his  own  house,  by  Mr.  Duncan 
Campbell,  one  of  the  partners  of  the  Northwest  Company, 
at  the  head  of  a  body  of  men,  and  v/as  called  on  to  give 
them  up.  On  his  refusal,  Campbell  cut  the  traces  of  the 
sledge,  beat  him,  and  bore  off  the  furs,  for  which  no 
compensation  was  ever  after  made. 


1 


I 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


n 


made  in 
Ijake,  also 
ler  skins, 
',  tobacco, 

ier  in  the 
>n  tiie  es- 
post  with 
One  even- 
id  of  Mr. 
Northwest 
;he  follow- 
to  dear's 
,  charging 
who  was 
1  on  tlieir 
1  on  this, 
uck  Crcar 
licting  on 
g  servant 
d  off  the 
n  the  fol- 
ts,  at  tlie 
him  and 
able  furs, 
nt  death, 
rily  gave 

the  ser- 

|ng  to  his 

a  qnan- 

the  In- 

Duncan 

fompany, 

to  give 

js  of  the 

rhich  no 


The  Northwest  Company  having  been  established 
some  years  at  Isle  k  la  Crosse,  near  the  borders  of  the 
Athabasca  country  (but  within  the  territories  claimed  by 
the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  under  their  charter),  had  ob- 
tained what  they  called  the  attachment  of  the  Indians : 
i.  c,  they  reduced  them  to  a  state  of  awe  and  submission. 
To  this  place  Mr.  Peter  Fidler  was  sent,  in  1809,  with  a 
party  of  eighteen  men,  from  Churchill  Factory,  to  esta- 
blish a  trading  post.  The  Company's  officers  had,  on 
many  former  occasions,  attempted  to  establish  a  trade  in 
this  place,  which  is  the  centre  of  a  country  abounding  in 
beaver ;  but  they  were  always  obliged  to  relinquish  the 
attempt.  In  order  the  more  effectually  to  overawe  the 
Indians  from  dealing  with  Mr.  Fidler,  and  to  deter  him 
from  any  attempt  to  protect  his  customers,  the  Northwest 
Company  reinforced  their  post  with  an  extra  number  of 
Canadians.  A  watch-house  was  built  at  iiis  door;  so 
that  no  Indian  could  enter  unobserved.  Here  a  party  of 
professed  batailleurSj  or  bullies,  were  stationed,  and  em- 
ployed not  only  to  watch  and  scare  away  this  Indians, 
but  to  give  every  possible  annoyance  day  and  night  to 
the  servants  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company.  Their  fire- 
wood was  stolen — they  were  perpetually  obstructed  in 
.  hunting  for  provisions — the  produce  of  their  garden  was 
destroyed — their  fishing  lines  stolen  in  the  night  time ; 
and  their  nets,  on  which  they  chiefly  relied  for  subsis- 
tence,  cut  to  pieces.  At  length,  growing  bolder  with 
success,  they  issued  a  formal  mandate,  that  not  one  of 
the  Hudson's  Bay  Company's  servants  should  stir  out  of 
the  house. 

The  consequence  was  that  Fidler  and  his  party  were 

driven   away,  and  the  Canadians  burnt  the  hut  to  the 

ground.     It  was  not  only  the  prosecution  of  trade,  on  the 

part  of  the  Hudson's   Bay  Company,  that  their  rivals 

■  thwarted,  but  even  attempts  to  explore  the  country.     This 

i  Mr.  Fidler  had  been  despatched  in  1807  to  explore  a  part 

I  of  the  country  through  which  a  more  advantageous  com- 


m 


32 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


ii- 

i, .. 


f      I 


m 

H  '  ■'.  ., 

h  !i 

■| '  >        i' 

!!  1  h' 
i  1   i: 

Mil           , 

i:"'  i   : 

;  1     1    : 

!     1: 

i          i- 

1       !■ 
1       i' 

1; 

munication  may  be  opened  into  Athabasca.  He  was  em. 
ployed  merely  as  a  surveyor ;  yet  he  was  tracked  on  his 
route,  and  interrupted  in  every  way ;  and  the  Indian  who 
acted  as  his  guide  was  attacked,  for  his  breach  of  duty 
to  the  Northwest  Company,  and  most  cruelly  maltreated. 

To  these,  and  many  similar  outrages,  the  difficulty  of 
obtaining  legal  redress  gave,  to  a  certain  extent,  impu. 
nity.  It  is  true  there  was  an  act  passed  by  the  Imperial 
Parliament,  in  1803,  called  the  "Canadian  Jurisdiction 
Act,"  to  repress  and  punish  such  crimes;  and  it  was 
passed  in  consequence  of  the  complaints  made  of  the 
many  assaults  of  the  servants  of  the  Old  and  New  North- 
west Companies  on  each  other,  when  these  companies 
were  violent  competitors, — before  their  union.  By  this 
Act,  the  courts  of  law  in  Canada  were  allowed  to  take 
cognizance  of  any  offences  committed  within  the  "  Indian 
territories." 

But  though  Canadians  contending  against  Canadians 
may  not  have  been  brought  under  the  operation  of  this 
Act,  yet  when  the  struggle  and  the  contention  came  to  be 
between  the  Canadians  united  on  the  one  side,  (after  the 
junction  of  the  Companies,)  and  the  servants  of  the  Hud- 
son's Bay  Company  on  the  other,  it  would  have  been  next 
to  an  impossibility  for  a  Hudson's  Bay  Company  complai- 
nant — a  stranger — to  obtain  redress  at  Montreal  for  an 
outrage  committed  by  a  Canadian,  perhaps  at  a  distance 
of  three  or  four  thousand  miles.  The  Canadians  were 
in  possession  of  all  the  water  and  land  passages  to  Mon- 
treal — their  friends  and  employers  were  then  willing  and 
able  to  assist  them,  and  they  could  have  no  lack  of  wit- 
nesses. But  how  could  a  servant  of  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company,  who  had  no  command  of  the  line  of  route,  and 
who  had  no  intercourse  with  Canada,  and  no  agent  there, 
convey  his  witnesses  safely  such  a  distance,  and  by  such 
a  route;  and  how  could  he  hope  for  equal  facility  of 
maintaining  his  cause  in  Montreal  ? 

There  was  only  one  case  brought  to  trial  for  twelve 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


33 


"e  was  cm- 
icd  on  his 
ndian  who 
ch  of  duty 
naltreated. 
iifficulty  of 
tent,  impu- 
le  Imperial 
rurisdiction 
md  it  was 
ade  of  the 
S^ew  North- 
companies 
n.    By  this 
ved  to  take 
he  "  Indian 

;  Canadians 
tion  of  this 
came  to  be 
3,  (after  the 
of  the  Hud- 
re  been  next 
ny  complai- 
treal  for  an 
t  a  distance 
idians  were 
res  to  Mon- 
willing  and 
ack  of  wit- 
idson's  Bay 
)f  route,  and 
agent  there, 
and  by  such 
facility  of 

1  for  twelve 


■  i-i 


years.  This  case,  if  truly  reported,  furnishes  an  example 
of  gross  oppression.  In  1809,  Mr.  W.  Corrigal,  of  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company,  occupied  a  post  near  Eagle 
Lake,  to  the  north  of  Lake  Superior.  A  party  of  the 
Northwest  Company  established,  on  the  15th  of  Sep- 
tember, an  encampment  about  forty  yards  from  his 
house,  under  the  command  of  Mr.  iEneas  M'Donnell,  a 
clerk  of  the  latter  Company.  On  the  evening  of  their 
encampment,  an  Indian  arrived  in  his  canoe,  bringing  a 
cargo  of  furs,  in  part  payment  of  a  debt  which  he  owed 
Corr'^al ;  and  remained  at  his  house  all  night.  Next 
morning,  as  he  was  returning  home  with  some  goods—- 
such  as  clothing,  ammunition  for  his  winter's  hunt,  &.C., 
M'Donnell,  with  two  of  his  servants,  went  down  to  the 
wharf,  and  seized  on  the  loaded  canoe,  on  the  alle^rcd 
ground  that  lie  was  indebted  to  the  Northwest  Company. 
Corrigal,  witnessing  the  occurrence,  sent  down  two  of 
his  men  to  secure  the  canoe.  M'Donnell  drew  his  sword 
and  severely  wounded  one  of  the  men — ^Tate.  This  scene 
soon  brought  up  reinforcements  from  both  sides ;  and  a 
general  fight  ensued,  during  which  M'Donnell  did  great 
execution  with  his  sword.  Corrigal's  party  were  obliged 
to  retreat  in  a  sad  plight.  In  the  pursuit,  M'Donnell 
was  about  to  cut  down  a  person  named  Mowatt,  w^hom 
he  had  previously  wounded,  when  Mowatt  turned  round 
and  shot  him  on  the  spot.  This  put  a  stop,  then,  to  hos- 
tilities. The  Northwest  Company's  servants  despatched 
couriers  to  their  friends  in  the  neighbouring  posts,  and 
on  the  next  day  assembled  in  large  bodies  before  Corri- 
gal's house,  which  he  had  in  the  mean  time  barricaded, 
demanding,  with  threats  of  instant  destruction  to  the 
whole  party  in  case  of  refusal,  that  the  person  who  shot 
M'Donnell  should  be  given  up.  Mowatt  then  stepped 
forward,  and  said  that  he  was  the  man,  and  would  do  it 
again  in  his  own  defence.  He  then  surrendered  himself, 
and  it  was  agreed  that  two  of  his  party,  Tate  and  Leask, 
should  be  taken  with  him,  as  his  witnesses,  straight  to 


WA' 


\> : 


34 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


,  I" 


I' I 


■:i|i 


!:;: 


mi 

ill 
!';  !!!!!■ 


HI    i 


Montreal ;  but  if  he  were  detained  till  spring,  then  one 
of  them  was  to  be  sent  back  to  Eagle  Lake,  and  Mr. 
Corrigal  himself  was  to  go  to  Montreal  as  his  witness. 
Tlicy  accordingly  were  taken  to  the  Northwest  Com- 
pany's encampment,  where  Mowatt  was  placed  in  irons. 

They  were  thence  removed  to  a  station  called  Lac  La 
Pluie,  where  they  were  detained  till  the  26th  of  February, 
Mowatt  being  kept  all  the  time  in  irons,  and  his  witnesses 
subjected  to  great  suffering.  On  the  26th  of  February, 
Lcask  was  sent  back,  and  Mr.  Corrigal  set  out.  He, 
Tate,  and  the  prisoner  arrived  at  Fort  William  on  the 
9th  of  June.  On  the  21st,  Mr.  A.  Shaw,  a  partner,  and  a 
magistrate  for  the  Indian  territory,  under  the  Act  of 
1803,  arrived  from  Montreal,  and  ordered  Mowatt  to  be 
summoned  before  him.  Mowatt  refused  to  answer  any 
questions,  saying  he  wished  to  be  taken  at  once  to  Mon- 
treal,  and  placed  on  his  trial.  He  was  ordered  back  to 
the  close  and  solitary  dungeon  in  which  he  had  been 
confined,  and  placed  under  heavy  irons.  Here  he  was 
detained  till  the  17th  of  August,  though  canoes  were 
constantly  plying  between  that  place  and  Montreal. 
When  he  was  taken  out  to  be  removed  to  Montreal,  he 
fell  down  twice  from  weakness,  and  cut  his  face  with  his 
handcuffs.  During  his  confinement  it  was  feared  by  the 
jailor  that  the  solitude  and  privation  were  driving  him  to 
delirium,  and  his  razors  were  removed. 

Corrigal  and  Tate  arrived  soon  afler,  and  to  their 
surprise,  were  arrested  as  accessories.  Thus  was  the 
prisoner  deprived  of  his  only  means  of  defence ;  and  two 
men,  innocent  of  the  act,  who  went  down  according  to 
previous  agreement,  as  witnesses — free  and  uncharged,  a 
distance  of  fifteen  hundred  miles  in  his  behalf,  were 
entrapped  into  a  prison.  The  three  were  penniless,  un- 
known,  and  unfi'iended  in  Montreal.  It  war)  not  till  the 
end  of  November  that  the  <rirt  ctors  of  the  Hudson^s  Bay 
Company,  who  at  that  time  had  no  agent  or  correspon- 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


35 


, then  one 
,  and  Mr. 
lis  witness. 
west  Com- 
1  in  irons, 
led  Lac  La 
r  February, 
s  witnesses 
February, 
out.    He, 
iam  on  the 
rtner,  and  a 
the  Act  of 
[)watt  to  be 
answer  any 
nee  to  Mon- 
red  back  to 
e  had  been 
ere  he  was 
anoes  were 
Montreal, 
lontreal,  he 
i,ce  with  his 
ared  by  the 
iring  him  to 

id  to  their 
us  was  the 
and  two 
ccording  to 
ncharged, a 
ehalf,  were 
nniless,  un- 
not  till  the 
dson's  Bay 
correspon- 


:e 


dent  in  Montreal,  or  any  place  in  Canada,  heard  of  the 
prosecution  thus  carried  on  against  their  servants ;  and 
they  then  took  steps  for  their  defence  by  engaginj^^ 
counsel.  The  prisoners  remained  in  prison  about  six 
months;  and  during  most  of  that  time  endured  great 
hardship.  They  were  indicted  for  murder.  The  grand 
jury  returned  a  true  hill  against  Mowatt,  but  ignored  the 
bills  against  the  others.  At  Mowatt's  trial  the  influence 
of  the  Northwest  Company  was  evident.  The  jury  was 
generally  believed  to  have  been  packed ;  and  more  than 
one  indication  of  manifest  partiality  was  exhibited  from 
the  bench.  Though  it  was  clearly  proved  that  M'Don- 
nell  began  the  attack  without  provocation;  and  that 
Mowatt  fired  in  self-defence,  he  was  found  guilty  of 
manslaughter,  and  sentenced  to  be  imprisoned  for  six 
months  (having  been  already  in  close  confinement  for 
eighteen  months),  and  branded  in  the  hand  with  a  red- 
hot  iron. 

Such  are  the  leading  facts  of  this  memorable  case, 
about  which  nmeh  has  been  written,  and  which  awakened 
the  attention  of  the  British  public  to  one  of  the  modes  of 
carrying  on  the  Canadian  fur  trade.  From  the  bitter 
spirit  in  which  these  contests  were  carried  on,  and  the 
criminations  and  recriminations  so  liberally  and  boldly 
dealt  out  on  both  sides,  it  is  not  easy  now  to  arrive  at  a 
clear  conclusion  as  to  the  relative  amount  of  delinquency 
of  either  party.  The  weight  of  evidence,  however,  seems 
to  incline  in  favour  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company.  They 
had  no  occasion,  at  least  were  not  under  the  same  neces- 
sity  of  resorting  to  violent  means  for  securing  a  profitable 
trade  as  their  rivals.  They  had  a  charter  which  gave 
them  great  advantages ;  they  had  not  an  equal  force  to 
present  against  their  rivals;  and  besides,  the  scene  of 
operations  lay  at  a  great  distance  from  their  head-quar- 
ters. But,  however,  good  came  from  evil:  it  led  to  a 
junction,  and  the  undisturbed  and  salutary  prosecution  of 
the  whole  trade. 


1  -ii 


36 


OREGON  TERRITORY, 


I? 


y  > '  li 


ill' "  '■ 


r ! 


■"  I'i!' 


CHAPTER  IV. 

F.stablishmfint  of  ihe  Hudson's  Bay  Company's  settlement, 
under  Lord  Selkirk,  al  Ued  River — destruction  of  it  by  tlic 
JS'orthweat  Company. 

It  may  not  be  uninteresting  to  give  an  account  of  a 
very  judicious  and  laudable  attempt  made  by  the  Hud. 
son*s  Bay  Company,  to  establish  an  agricultural  colony, 
as  the  nucleus,  from  which,  in  progress  of  time,  civilized 
society  would  spread  in  the  territories  of  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Company — an  attempt  which,  unhappily,  was  marred 
by  the  influences  of  avarice  and  jealousy.  The  Company 
had  long  been  of  opinion  that,  as  the  country  over  which 
they  held  unlimited  jurisdiction  contained  so  many  na- 
tural resources,  and  was  capable  of  yielding  other  riches 
besides  furs,  it  would  be  desirable,  for  many  reasons,  to 
establish  colonies  in  the  interior;  for,  independently  of 
the  advantages  accruing  to  the  settlers  themselves  for 
acquiring  the  means  of  independent  subsistence,  perhaps 
denied  to  them  in  their  native  country,  the  example  of 
well-regulated  communities,  showing  a  respect  for  law, 
order,  integrity,  and  religion,  would  operate  beneficially 
in  the  commercial  intercourse  between  the  rude  natives 
and  the  licentious  traders.  But  to  found  such  colonies  in 
a  country  so  far  removed  from  any  civilized  establish- 
jnents  was  a  matter  surrounded  with  difficulties.  It 
required  persons  of  property,  influence,  and  judgment  to 
undertake  the  management  of  the  plan. 

Lord  Selkirk,  who  possessed  considerable  spirit  of  en- 
ti  rprise,  and  acquired  some  note  as  a  writer  on  colonial 
emigration,  entered  into  a  rdCgoti'.tion  with  the  Company. 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


37 


'a  settlement, 
n  of  it  by  the 

account  of  a 
by  the  Hud- 
tural  colony, 
imc,  civilized 
;hc  Hudson's 
,  was  marred 
'he  Company 
y  over  which 
so  many  na- 
other  riches 
y  reasons,  to 
•pendently  of 
lemselves  for 
mce,  perhaps 
3  example  of 
pect  for  law, 
beneficially 
rude  nativco 
;h  colonies  in 
ed  establish- 
fficulties.     It 
judgment  to 

spirit  of  en- 
•  on  colonial 
he  Company. 


They   arcordinjrly,  on    condition   of  spcctly  settlomnnt, 
made  to  him  a  prant  of  land  in  a  sahihrioiis  and  tortile 
district,  where  the  land  was  abundantly   supplied  with 
buffalo  and  other  wild  cattle,  and   the  lakes  and  rivers 
with  excellent  fish.     lie  connncnccd  then,  in  1812,  a  set- 
tlemcnt  at  Red  River,  near  its  junction  with  the  Assini- 
boiii   River,   to   the    south    of  Lake    \Vinni|)e^r.      iMiles 
M'Donnell,  Esq.,  formerly  a  ca{)tain  in  the  Queen's  Ran- 
i  gcra,  was  selected  to  conduct  the  undertaking",  and  was, 
^  at  the  same  time,  appointed  (xovernoi   of  the  district,  un- 
der the  authority  conferred   by   the  Company's  charter. 
Though  the  settlement  was  formed  in  a  district  which 
had  been  exhausted  of  valuable  furs  by  the  extirpation  of 
the  beaver;  and  thoujrli  the   settlers  were  prevented,  by 
the  very  tenure  of  their  lands,  from  interfering"  in  the  fur 
trade,  and  were  thus  exempted  from  the  suspicion  of  ri- 
valry ;  yet,  extraordinary  as  it  may  appear,  the  North- 
west Company,  from  the  very  moment  that  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Company  engaged  in  the  plan  of  forming  an  agri- 
cultural settlement  upon  an  extended  scale  within  their 
territories,  avowed  their  determined  hostility  to  the  set- 
tlement; or  to  any  execution,  however  partial,  of  such  a 
project.     As  they  wished  to  hold  exclusive  possession  of 
Hhe  country,  they  were  jealous  of  any  establishment  that 
could   be  formed  within   the  range   of  their  monopoly, 
'wherc  habits  of  sobriety,  and  principles  of  moral  inte- 
grity would  operate  as  a  check  on  the  conduct  of  their 
servants ;  and  they  resolved  to  destroy  it. 

The  settlement  presented  every  appearance  of  growing 

prosperity.     Emigrants  were  arriving;  and  the  Indians 

evinced  a  friendly  disposition.     But  in  llie   autumn  of 

1814,  afler  a  general  meeting  of  the  partners  of  tlie  North- 

-vvcst  Company,  held  at  Fort  William,  near  Lake  Superior, 

•|  an  expedition  was  fitted  out  against  it.     The  intentions 

;of  the  Northwest  Company  can  be  judged  of  by  a  letter 

[from   Mr.   Alexander   M'Donnell,  one  of  the   partners, 

I  dated  August  5,  and  addressed  to  a  brother-in-law  of  the 


11 


88 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


U 


i:^:t 


I 


II. I 


hi;! 


I  '■  ■ 


lion.  Williain   M*Gillwray,  another  of  the  partnciB,  re*. 
Bidinir  in  Montreal. 


t( 


'If,  and 


nitual  friend  Mr.  C 


anicron, 

8o  far  on  our  way  to  con)nu'n(;e  oj)en  hostilities  against 
the  enemy,  Mucii  is  expected  from  us.  One  tliin|r  ccr. 
tain  is,  that  wc  will  do  our  best  to  defend  what  we  con- 
sider  our  ri'rhts  in  the  interior.  Nothing  but  the  com- 
jdcte  downfall  of  the  colony  will  satisfy  some,  by  fair  or 
foul  means — a  most  desirable  object  if  it  can  be  eftectcd. 
So  here  is  at  them  with  all  my  heart  and  energy." 

Their  first  plan  of  proceeding  was  to  seduce  or  frighten 
away  as  many  of  tiie  colonists  and  their  servants  as  they 
could ;  and  raise  the   Indians  to  destroy  the  settlement. 
Previously  to  their  setting  out,  M'Donnell  and  Cameron 
provided  tliemsclves  with  the  uniforms  of  British  military 
officers,  and  administered  an  oath  in  Fort  William  to 
their  followers  to  obey  all  the  orders  of  their  commander 
for  the  defence  of  the  interests  of  the  Company  in  the 
Northwest.     On  their  arriving  at  Fort  Gibraltar,  a  fort 
belonging  to  the  Northwest  Company,  within   about  a 
mile  of  the  Red  River  settlement,  Cameron  assumed  the 
style  and  title  of  commander,  alleging  that  government 
had  conferred  that  appointment  upon  him,  and  issued 
proclamations  in  that  character.     Their  first  step  was  to 
excite  discontent  among  the  settlers :  and  several  of  them 
were  induced,  by  prospects  of  reward  or  by  intimidation, 
to  desert,  and  pillage  the  settlement ;  which  they  did ; 
for  among  other  articles,  they  took  off  nine  pieces  of  ar- 
tillery, with  a  quantity  of  muskets  and  ammunition,  sent 
out  by  the  board  of  ordnance  for  its  defence ;  Cameron 
and  his  party  being  posted  under  arms  close  by  ready  to 
support  the  plunderers  if  resisted.     The  settlement  being 
thus  deprived  of  its  principal  means  of  defence,  and  ha- 
rassed for  months  by  a  series  of  other  aggressions  and 
losses,  it  was  at  last  determined,  in  June  1815,  that  Ca- 
meron  should  attack  it  with  his  whole  force.    This  attack, 
followed  up  by  others,  having  failed,  though   attended 


OREGON  TERRIT(*aY. 


39 


[)artncr8,  re- 

[r.  Cameron, 
Hies  ufrainst 
ic  tiling  ccr. 
;liat  wc  con- 
jut  the  com- 
ic, by  fair  or 
1  be  cftcctcd. 
orgy." 

:c  or  frighten 
vants  as  they 
le  settlement, 
and  Cameron 
•itish  military 
t  William  to 
ir  commander 
mpany  in  the 
)raltar,  a  fort 
hin   about  a 
assumed  the 
government 
and  issued 
step  was  to 
veral  of  them 
intimidation, 
ich  they  did ; 
pieces  of  ar- 
aunition,  sent 
ce ;  Cameron 
by  ready  to 
lement  being 
3nce,  and  ha- 
rrcssions  and 
|815,  that  Ca- 
This  attack, 
igh   attended 


ith  much  damajfo  to  the  colony,  tljc  assailants  luv^-iirlit 
A  the  artillery  to  batter  down  the  l)uildini,'H.     Tlien  at   last 
|i  the  jrovcrnor  was  obliircd  to  surrender,  and  he  was  t-i  nt 
'  a  prisoner  to   Montreal,  under  a  warrant  from   a  partner 
of  the  iVorthwest  Company  on  a  cliar;[ro  of  havinjr  prohi- 
bited tiie  exportation  of  provisions ;  and  havinjr  detained 
some  bajrs  of  pemican  (a  preparation  of  dried  buffalo 
meat)  belonging   to   the  Company.      I'lie   remainder  of 
them  were  expelled ;  their  cattle  slaughtered ;  and  their 
buildiniTS  levelled  down. 

Messrs.  McDonnell  and  Cameron  were  treated  with 
great  distinction  by  the  Company,  and  in  approbation  of 
their  services  were  retained  in  their  former  posts. 

But  in  autumn,  the  colonists  who  had  been  driven  out 
returned  with  an  accession  to  their  numbers,  partly  from 
Scotland,  and  partly  from  Canada,  under  tlic  conduct  of 
Mr.  Colin  Robertson,  a  gentleman  in  the  service  of  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company,  and  resumed  tiie  occupation  of 
their  fields  at  Red  River.  Soon  after,  Robert  Semple, 
Esq.,  who  had  been  appointed  governor  over  the  whole  of 
the  Hudson's  Bay  territories,  arrived  at  Red  River.  The 
Northwest  Company  now  felt  that  a  more  vigorous  effort 
than  the  former  could  alone  enable  them  to  destroy  the 
renovated  settlement.  The  previous  stratagems,  of  sow- 
ing disaffection,  and  influencing  the  colonists,  were  now 
impracticable.  They  were  committed  in  open  warfare 
with  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company ;  their  sole  hopes  then 
lay  in  superior  physical  power.  An  unusually  large  force 
was  collected,  in  the  spring  of  1816,  at  Northwest  Fort,, 
on  the  river  Qui  Appelle,  within  the  Hudson's  Bay  terri- 
tories, under  the  command  of  Alexander  M'Donnell.  To 
form  this  force,  requisitions  had  been  made  upon  various 
forts  of  the  Northwest  Company,  to  a  very  great  dis- 
tance;  all  of  whom  contributed  their  quotas.  The  great- 
est energy  was  exhibited  by  the  different  partners  of  the 
'ompany.  Mr.  Duncan  Campbell,  a  partner  who  com- 
landed  at  Fort  Cumberland,  in  despatching  his  rein- 


1. 


40 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


if    ' 


h 


$ 


I  'ijiii:;^ 


lllili!!!: 


i 


ill! 

1 

; 

1 

j  } 

ii 

n 

forcciDcnta,  told  tlicin  that  it  was  indispensable  that  they 
should  have  the  (.ioviTuor,  Mr.  Seinple,  and  IMr.  Robert. 
Hon,  or  their  heads. 

TJio  Ilndi^on^a  IJay  Company  htul  a  post  likewise  on 
the  river  Qui  Appelle,  in  tlie  vicinity  of  tlic  post  when 
M'Doiuiell  coniniundcd.  'I'liis  river  is  one  of  llie  tribu- 
taries to  tiie  Red  Kiver.  'Die  i)o.<t  established  tiierc  by 
the  Hudson's  IJay  C'oinpany  was  <  no  of  those  denominate  d 
provision  posts;  and  from  it  larfre  (luantities  ol'provisionH 
were  sent  down  in  boats  to  the  Red  River  for  tlie  use  ot' 
the  colony,  and  the  Conij)any.  (Governor  Semple  heariiijr 
at  Red  River  that  the  Northwest  Company  were  collect. 
in«T  a  large  force  at  Qui  A|)pclle,  and  learinjr  they  would 
prevent  the  arrival  at  the  settlement  of  the  provisions  ex. 
pected  from  that  quarter,  desj)atchcd  a  Mr.  Panibrun  with 
an  escort,  to  insure  their  sale  arrival.  This  party,  on 
their  return  with  the  provisions,  as  well  as  a  quantity  ol 
furs  and  other  property,  werci  attacked  by  a  superior  force, 
at  an  intricate  part  of  the  river,  where  resistance  was 
iiopelcss — were  made  prisoners,  and  carried  back,  with 
the  cargo,  to  M'Donnell's  position  at  Qui  Appclle 

M'Donnell,  when  all  the  expected  levies  had  arrived,  set 
out  for  the  attack  of  the  colony,  and  on  his  way  sacked 
the  Hudson's  Bay  Company's  boats  at  Brandon  House. 
Having  arrived  at  a  place  called  Portages  dcs  Prairies, 
about  sixty  miles  from  the  colony,  he  halted  there  with 
the  main  body  of  his  forces,  and  sent  forward  a  detach- 
ment of  about  seventy  horsemen,  under  the  command  ot 
Cuthbert  Grant.  The  Governor,  Mr.  Semple,  having 
learned  that  an  armed  body  of  men  was  at  hand,  and 
capturing  some  of  the  settlers,  proceeded  with  about 
tliirty  attendants  to  meet  them,  hoping  by  his  presence 
and  authority  to  prevent  hostilities,  especially  as  he  was 
ignorant  of  their  number  and  real  intentions.  He  was 
soon  surrounded  and  summoned  to  surrenrier :  on  his 
refusal  he  and  his  party  were  instantly  sla  n,  with  the 
exception  of  one  who  was  kept  a  prisoner,  and  four  who 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


41 


bio  tlmt  they 
JNlr.  Robcrl. 

,  liUcwifcC  on 
c  post  whtrt 
I  of  the  tribu. 
ihcd  the  re  by 
dfiioininutcd 
i  of  provisions 
for  till!  use  of 
smplc  hcariiiLT 
were  collect, 
ijr  they  would 
provisions  ex- 
Panibrim  with 
.'his  party,  on 
a  quantity  ol 
superior  force, 
csistancc  was 
ed  back,  with 
jpcllc 

ad  arrived,  set 

is  way  sacked 

andon  House. 

des  Prairies, 

ed  there  witli 

^ard  a  detach. 

command  ot 

mple,   havin^^ 

at  hand,  and 

with  about 

his  presence 

ly  as  he  was 

ons.     He  was 

nder:   on  his 

an,  with  the 

and  four  who 


cscapjMl,  in  the  tumult,  across  the  river,  ftrant  employed 
the  prisoner  to  induce  the  iiihal)itants  of  the  settlement, 
and  of  the  Hudson's  IJay  ('ompany's  fort  attached  to  it, 
to  ni.ikc!  an  entire  and  unconditional  surrender,  as  the 
only  means  of  cscapinjif  from  destruction.  Tliere  was  no 
alternative  :  tijey  were  reduced  to  utter  helpl(?ssness  and 
desj)air:  and  accordinjrly  they  surrendered  every  thinjj, 
he^ijinfir  only  for  their  lives.  The  certificate  of  protec- 
tion  jjrantcd  to  oacii  individual  ran  thus : — 

"This  is  to  certify  that  behaved  honourably 

to  the  Northwest  Company. 

CuTiiBERT  Grant, 

^  Clerk  to  tlic  Northwest  Company." 

This  document  shows  that  cither  real  or  supposed  in- 
terference with  the  interests  of  the  Company  constituted, 
originally,  the  chief  crime  of  the  settlers.  These  sur- 
vivors were  immediately  embarked  in  canoes,  to  the 
number  of  two  hundred,  includinj|y  women  and  children, 
with  a  very  insufficient  stock  of  provisions  for  their 
'journey,  to  Hudson's  Hay.  Thus  w^as  the  downfall  of  the 
'  colony,  according  to  M'Donnell's  intimation  in  his  letter, 
effected.  The  majority  of  the  sufferers  were  Scotch,  and 
the  conductors  of  the  attack  were  their  own  countrymen. 
It  shows  what  the  love  of  gain  can  do. 


4* 


t    i': 


48 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


..■4' 


^1  not 
■  shod 


■'!&■', 


■I 


ll|v;; 


Hiji;. 


m 

iil 


CHAPTER  V. 

Trappers,  or  beaver  hunters — Voyageurs,  or  boatmen. 

In  the  old  times  of  the  Canadian  fur  trade  when  the 
trade  in  furs  was  chiefly  pursued  about  the  lakes  and 
rivers,  the  expeditions  were,  in  a  great  degree,  carried  on 
in  batteaux  and  canoes.  But  a  totally  different  class 
now  sprung  up — the  "mountaineers" — the  traders  and 
trappers  that  scale  the  vast  mountain  chains,  and  pursue 
their  hazardous  vocation  amidst  their  wild  recesses — 
moving  from  place  to  place  on  horseback — exposed  not 
alone  to  the  perils  of  the  wilderness,  but  to  the  perils  of 
attack  from  fierce  Indians,  to  whom  it  has  become  as 
favourite  an  exploit  to  harass  and  way-lay  a  band  of 
trappers  with  their  pack-horses,  as  it  is  to  the  Arabs  of 
the  desert  to  plunder  a  caravan.  The  equestrian  exer- 
cises in  which  they  are  constantly  engaged — the  nature 
of  the  country  they  traverse — vast  plains  and  mountains 
pure  and  exhilarating  in  their  atmospheric  qualities — 
seem  to  make  them,  physically  and  mentally,  a  more 
lively,  vigorous,  daring  and  enduring  race  than  the  fur 
traders  and  trappers  of  former  days,  who  generally  hn.d 
huts  or  tents  to  shelter  them  from  the  inclemency  of  the 
seasons — were  seldom  exposed  to  the  hostility  of  the 
natives,  and  generally  were  within  reach  of  supplies 
from  the  settlements.  There  is,  perhaps,  no  class  of  men 
on  the  earth  who  lead  a  life  of  more  continued  exertion, 
danger,  and  excitement,  and  who  are  more  enamoured  of 
their  occupations,  than  the  free  trappers  of  the  wild  re- 
gions of  the  west.    No  toil,  no  danger,  no  privation,  can 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


43 


boatmen. 

de  when  the 

e  lakes  and 

B,  carried  on 

fFerent  class 

traders  and 

,  and  pursue 

1  recesses — 

-exposed  not 

the  perils  of 

become  as 

a  band  of 

he  Arabs  of 

strian  exer- 

the  nature 

mountains 

qualities — 

lly,  a  more 

ban  the  fur 

merally  h^d 

ency  of  the 

lity   of  the 

of  supplies 

lass  of  men 

d  exertion, 

amoured  of 

Ihc  wild  re- 

vation,  can 


f 


turn  the  trapper  aside  from  his  pursuit.  If  his  meal  is 
I  not  ready  in  time,  he  takes  his  rifle — hies  to  the  forest — 
I  shoots  his  game — lights  his  fire  ;  and  cooks  his  repast. 
tWith  his  horse  and  his  rifle  he  is  independent  %f  the 
[world,  and  spurns  its  restraints.  In  vain  may  the  most 
(vigilant  and  cruel  savages  beset  his  path — in  vain  may 
rocks,  and  precipices,  and  wintry  torrents  oppose  his 
progress ;  let  but  a  single  track  of  a  beaver  meet  his  eye, 
and  he  forgets  all  danger,  and  defies  all  difficulties.  At 
times  he  may  be  seen,  with  his  traps  on  his  shoulder, 
^^buffcting  his  way  across  rapid  streams  amidst  floating 
Iblocks  of  ice  :  at  other  times  may  he  be  seen,  with  his 
traps  slung  on  his  back,  clambering  the  most  rugged 
mountains — scaling  or  descending  the  most  frightful  pre- 
cipices— searching  by  routes  inaccessible  to  horse,  and 
never  before  trodden  by  white  man,  for  springs  and  lakes 
unknown  to  his  comrades,  where  he  may  meet  with  his 
favourite  game. 
This  class  of  hunters  are  generally  Canadians  by  birth, 

?,nd  of  French  descent ;  who,  after  being  bound  to  serve 
he  traders  for  a  certain  number  of  years  and  receive 
.wages,  or  hunt  on  shares,  then  continued  to  hunt  and 
trap  on  their  own  account,  trading  with  the  Company 
like  the  Indians;  hence  they  are  called /rcc  men.  Having 
passed  their  youth  in  the  wilderness,  in  constant  inter- 
Course  with  the  Indians,  and  removed  from  civilized 
fcociety,  they  lapse  with  natural  facility  into  the  habits  of 
(Bavage  life.  They  generally  intermarry  with  the  natives, 
find,  like  them,  have  often  a  plurality  of  wives.  Wardens 
pf  tlie  wilderness,  according  to  the  vicissitudes  of  the 
Reasons,  the  migrations  of  animals,  and  the  plenty  or 
^  J  scarcity  of  game,  they  lead  a  precarious  and  unsettled 
iexistence,  exposed  to  sun  and  storm,  and  all  kinds  of 
pliardships,  until  they  resemble  the  Indians  in  complexion, 
|as  well  as  in  tastes  and  habits.  From  time  to  time  they 
bring  their  peltries  to  the  trading-houses  of  the  Company, 
land  barter  them  for  such  articles  as  they  may  require. 


-H 


mm^  ■ 


44 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


i    Ml  '      I  ■•    ■ 


'■  ,  .1' 


':l 


When  Montreal  was  the  great  emporium  of  the  fur  trade, 
some  of  them  would  occasionally  return,  after  an  absence 
of  many  years,  to  visit  their  old  associates.  There  they 
would  squander  the  long:  and  hard  earned  fruits  of  their 
labours ;  and  after  the  fit  of  revelry  was  over  go  back  to 
their  former  toils,  and  the  freedom  of  the  forest.  Sonic 
few  of  them,  however,  retained  a  little  of  the  thrift  and 
forethought  of  the  civilized  man,  and  became  wealthy 
among  their  improvident  neighbours;  their  wealth  con. 
sisting  chiefly  of  large  bands  of  horses,  scattered  over  the 
prairies  in  the  vicinity  of  their  abodes. 

There  was  another  class,  the  native  Indians  of  Canada, 
who  had  partially  conformed  to  the  habits  of  civilization, 
and  received  the  doctrines  of  Christianity,  undt  the  in- 
fluence of  the  French  colonists  and  the  Romon  Catholic 
priests,  who  certainly  diff'used  more  of  the  knowledge  and 
principles  of  the  Christian  religion  among  the  North 
American  Indians  than  the  Protestant  missionaries  have. 
These  half-civilized  Indians  retained  some  of  the  good 
and  of  the  evil  qualities  of  their  original  stock.  Though 
they  generally  professed  the  Roman  Catholic  religion,  it 
was  mixed  up  with  some  of  their  ancient  superstitions, 
especially  their  belief  in  omens  and  charms.  These  men 
were  often  employed  for  a  stated  time  by  the  Company  as 
trappers  and  canoe-men,  though  on  lower  terms  than  were 
allowed  to  the  white  men,  but  generally  in  the  end  they 
became  free  trappers. 

Voyageurs. — As  this  class  of  functionaries  was,  and  is 
indispensable  in  the  prosecution  of  the  fur-trade ;  and  as 
they  form  one  of  those  distinct  and  strong-marked  orders 
of  people  springing  up  in  that  vast  continent  out  of  geo- 
graphical circumstances,  or  the  varied  pursuits,  habitudes, 
and  origins  of  the  population,  the  following  sketch  of  a 
lew  of  their  leading  characteristics  may  be  interesting 
and  instructive.  The  voyageurs  form  a  kind  of  fraternity 
in  the  Canadas,  like  the  arrieros,  or  carriers,  in  Spain, 
and,  like  them,  are  employed  in  long  internal  expeditions 


sin. 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


4o 


the  fur  trade, 
)T  an  absence 
There  they 
iruits  of  their 
er  go  back  to 
forest.  Sonic 
the  thrift  and 
ame  wealthy  - 
r  wealth  con- 
tercd  over  the 

ins  of  Canada. 

)f  civilization, 

undt    the  in- 

>mon  Catholic 

:nowledge  and 

ng  the  North 

sionaries  have. 

e  of  the  good 

ock.    Though 

ic  religion,  it 

superstitions, 

These  men 

e  Company  as 

rms  than  were 

the  end  they 

DS  was,  and  is 
rade ;  and  as 
narked  orders 
nt  out  of  gco- 
its,  habitudes, 
sketch  of  a 
30  interesting 
d  of  fraternity 
ers,  in  Spain, 
al  expeditions 


I  of  travel  and  traffic;  but  with  this  diiTcrcncc,  that  tlic 
arricros  travel  by  land,  with  mules  and  liorscs,  the  roya- 
I  Qeurs  by  water,  with  battcaux,  or  boats,  and  canoes.  I'hc 
5:  voyagcurs  may  be  said  to  have  sprung  u[)  out  of  the  fiir- 
)!trade,   liaving    been    originally   employed    by   the    early 
Frcncii  mcrcliants  in  their  trading  expeditions   througli 
the  labyrintii  of  rivers  and  lakes  olthe  boundless  interior. 
Tliey  were  coeval  witii  tiie  coureurs  des  hois,  or  rangers 
of  t!ic  woods,  already  noticed,  and  like  them,  in  the  inter- 
4'als  of  their  long  and  laborious  expeditions  were  prone  to 
|)ass  their  time  in  idleness  and  revelry  about  the  trading. 
;|K)sts,  or   settlements — squandering  their  hard  earnings 
Mn  heedless  conviviality ;  and  rivalling  their  neighbours 
the  Indians  in  indolent  indulgence  and  an  improvident 
disregard   to  to-morrow.    Their  dress  is  generally  half 
fjivilizcd,  half  savage.     They  wear  a  capot,  or  outside 
|K)at,  made  of  a   blanket — a  striped  cotton  shirt — cloth 
browsers,   or   leathern   leggins — moccasins,   or   deerskin 
^hoes,  without  a  sole,  and  ornamented  on  the  upper ;  and 
belt  of  variegated  worsted,  Ij-om  which  are  suspended  a 
[nife,  tobacco-pouch,  and  other  implements.     Their  lan- 
|[uagc  is  of  the  same  piebald  character,  being  a  French 
patois,  embroidered  with  Indian  and  English  words  and 
Jphrascs.     Their  lives  are  passed  in  wild  and  extensive 
|ovings  in  the  service  of  individuals,  but  more  especially 
pf  the  fur-traders.   They  are  generally  of  French  descent, 
(Ind  inherit  much  of  the  gaiety  and  light-heartedness  of 
their  ancestors ;  being  full  of  anecdote  and  song,  and  ever 
feady  for  the  dance.     They  inherit,  too,  a  fund  of  civility 
Und   complaisance ;   and   instead   of  that  hardness   and 
Igrossness  which  men  in  laborious  life  are  apt  to  indulge 
^towards  each  other,  they  arc  naturally  obliging  and  ac- 
fcommodating — interchanging  kind  offices, — yielding  each 
lother  assistance  and  comfort  in  every  emergency  ;  and 
lusing  the  familiar  and  aifectionate  appellations  of  "  eou- 
[sin,"  and  "  brother,"  when  there  is,  in  fact,  no  relation- 
ship.   Their  natural  good-will  is  probably  heightened  by 


46 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


';  li 

'i.lil 


!i;,  -;:; 


jiii: 


i!i' 


iy!i^!:> 


I'll  ;i!i!|iiM^iii> 


I    ! 


Ifi 

I   I',!    1^ 


mk' 


a  community  of  adventure  and  hardsliip  in  their  preca. 
rious  and  wandering  life.  No  men  arc  more  submissive 
to  their  leaders  and  employers—  more  capable  of  enduring 
Iiardships,  or  more  g-ood-humoured  under  privations. 
Never  are  they  so  happy  as  when  on  long  and  rough  ex. 
peditions,  toiling  up  rivers,  or  coasting  lakes,  on  the 
borders  of  which  they  encamp  at  night,  gossip  round 
their  fires,  and  bivouac  in  the  open  air.  They  are  dex. 
terous  boatmen,  vigorous  and  adroit  with  the  oar  and 
paddle,  and  will  row  from  morning  till  night  without  a 
murmur.  The  steersman  often  sings  an  old  traditionary 
French  song,  with  some  regular  chorus,  in  which  they 
all  join,  keeping  time  w^ith  their  oars ;  and  if  at  any  time 
they  flag  in  spirits  or  relax  in  exertion,  it  is  but  neces. 
sary  to  strike  up  a  song  of  the  kind  to  put  them  all  in 
fresh  spirits  and  activity.  The  Canadian  waters  are 
vocal  with  these  songs,  that  have  been  echoed  from 
moutli  to  mouth,  and  transmitted  from  father  to  son,  from 
the  earliest  days  of  the  colony ;  and  it  has  a  pleasing 
effect  to  see,  in  a  still,  golden  summer  evening,  a  batteau 
gliding  across  the  bosom  of  the  lake,  dipping  its  oars  to 
the  cadence  of  these  quaint  old  ditties,  or  sweeping  along 
in  full  chorus,  on  a  bright  sunny  morning,  down  the 
transparent  current  of  one  of  the  Canadian  rivers. 

When  Canada  passed  under  British  domination,  and 
the  old  French  trading-houses  were  broken  up,  the  voya- 
geurs,  like  the  coureurs  des  bois^  were  for  a  long  time 
disheartened  and  disconsolate ;  and  w'ith  difficulty  could 
reconcile  themselves  to  the  service  of  the  new-comers,  so 
different  in  manners,  habits,  and  language,  from  their 
former  employers.  By  degrees,  however,  they  became 
accustomed  to  the  change ;  and  at  length  came  to  con. 
sider  the  British  fur-traders,  and  especially  the  Northwest 
Company,  as  the  legitimate  lords  of  creation. 

"  An  instance,"  says  W.  Irving,  "  of  the  buoyant  tem. 
perament  and  professional  pride  of  these  people  was  fur- 
nished  in  the  gay  and  braggart  style  in  which  a  party  of 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


47 


their  prcca. 
c  submissive 
)  of  enduring 
•    privations, 
nd  rough  ex. 
ikes,  on  the 
frossip  round 
rhey  are  dcx. 
the  oar  and 
ht  without  a 
1  traditionary 
1  which  they 
if  at  any  time 
is  but  neces. 
t  them  all  in 
n  waters  are 
echoed   from 
}T  to  son,  from 
s  a  pleasing 
ing,  a  batteau 
ig  its  oars  to 
vceping  along 
ng,  down  the 
rivers. 

nination,  and 

up,  the  voya. 

a  long  time 

ifficulty  could 

ew-comers,  so 

e,  from  their 

they  became 

came  to  con. 

ihe  Northwest 

buoyant  tem- 
3oplc  was  fur- 
[ch  a  party  of 


5  them  arrived  at  Now  York  to  join  tlie  enterprise.*  They 
Iwcre  determined  to  regale  and  astonish  tlie  people  of  tlie 
I*  States'  with  the  sight  of  a  Canadian  boat  and  a  Cana- 
dian  crew.  Tiicy  accordingly  fitted  up  a  large,  but  light, 
bark  canoe — such  as  is  used  in  the  fur-trade — transplanted 
Jt  in  a  wagon  from  the  banks  of  tlie  St.  Lawrence  to  the 
ihorcs  of  Lake  Champlain — traversed  the  lake  in  it  from 
nd  to  end — hoisted  it  again  in  a  wagon — wheeled  it  oft' 
Lansingburg,  and  then  launched  it  upon  the  waters  of 
e  Hudson.  Down  this  river  tliey  plied  their  course 
errily  on  a  fine  summer's  day,  making  its  banks  ro- 
und, for  the  first  time,  with  their  old  French  boat-songs 
passing  by  the  villages  with  whoop  and  halloo,  so  as  to 
jbake  the  honest  Dutch  farmers  mistake  them  for  a  crew 
^  savages.  In  this  way  they  swept  in  full  song,  and 
with  regular  flourish  of  the  paddle,  round  New  York,  in 
i^  still  summer  evening,  to  the  delight  and  admiration  of 

ri  inhabitants,  who  had  never  witnessed  on  their  waters 
nautical  appaiition  of  the  kind. 
^  "  But  we  are  talking  of  things  that  are  fast  fading 
Mvay.  Mechanical  invention  is  driving  every  thing  poeti- 
1  before  it.  The  steamboats,  which  are  fast  dispelling 
e  solitude,  wildness,  and  romance  of  our  lakes  and 
Ivers,  are  proving  as  fatal  to  the  race  of  Canadian  voya- 
«Eurs,  as  they  have  been  to  the  boatmen  on  the  Missis- 
sippi. They  are  no  longer  tlie  lords  of  our  internal  seas, 
lUjid  the  great  navigators  of  the  wilderness.  Their  range 
If  fast  contracting  to  those  remote  waters,  and  shallow 
a^d  obstructed  rivers  unvisited  by  the  steamboat.  In  the 
urse  of  years  they  will  gradually  disappear — their  songs 
ill  die  away  like  the  echoes  they  once  awakened ;  and 
G  Canadian  voyage urs  will  become  a  forgotten  race,  or 
membercd,  like  their  associates  the  Indians,  among  the 
etical  images  of  past  times,  and  as  a  theme  for  local 
d  romantic  associations." 


*  The  trading  expedition  fitted  out  by  Mr.  Foster  for 
id  Columbia. 


vj.^ 


!i| 


:^' 


I  ' 


'111  •'  ' 


I'' 


i     I 

i  1,1 


( 


I 


Mltlj 


ill; 


1 


'11 


48 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


Without  speculating  as  to  the  duration  of  their  future 
existence,  (and  unless  steam  should  make  rapid  strides, 
and  produce  wonderful  changes, — «  make  the  rough  ways 
smooth,  and  the  crooked  8traight,"-^-deepen  shallows— 
level  waterfalls ;  and  smoothen  rapids,  in  the  streams, 
lakes,  and  rivers  of  British  America,  their  extirpation  in 
the  northwest  is  not  likely  soon  to  occur),  I  may  observe, 
that  however  much  the  romance  and  poetry  of  their  pur. 
suit  and  enterprise  may  decay,  their  physical  comforti 
are  likely  to  be  greatly  improved.  The  system  under 
which  they  so  successfully  played  the  part  of  joyous  ad. 
venturers,  indefatigable  fresh-water  rovers,  has  beer 
changed,  and  for  the  better.  The  whole  of  the  vast  con 
tinent  stretching  from  the  Pacific  to  the  Atlantic,  anc 
from  Lake  Superior  and  the  Columbia  to  the  Pole,  savt 
the  strip  of  sea-coast  occupied  by  the  Russians  on  tli( 
North  Pacific,  is  under  the  jurisdiction  of  the  Hudson'' 
Bay  Company.  Throughout  this  immense  region  thev 
have  stations  established  at  convenient  distances;  anc 
within  the  limits  of  the  territories  attached  to  each  sta. 
tion,  the  duties  of  the  several  bands  of  voyageurs  are 
generally  confined.  They  know  their  range  of  adven 
ture,  where  they  are  to  halt,  and  what  is  to  be  their  fina 
destination.  They  are  well  paid  and  well  fed,  and  neec 
have  no  care  for  to-morrow.  It  is  true  they  have  lee 
ardent  spirits,  but  they  have  more  substantial  food.  Thei 
have  less  incentive  for  speculation,  but  they  have  mor 
certainty  of  pay.  They  have  less  freedom,  but  mon 
security  of  person,  „., 

The  following  sketch  of  the  fare  of  the  voyageurs,  ani 
the  other  hard-working  servants  of  the  Company,  a 
present,  though  applied  to  a  peculiar  undertaking,  wili 
however,  in  the  main,  hold  good  about  their  treatmen 
generally.  I  must  premise  that  animal  food  is  their  onh 
subsistence  often  in  those  remote  regions ;  as  they  Jiav 
neither  bread  nor  vegetables  : — 

"  On  Christmas  and  New  Year's  days,"  says  Simpsor. 


'»' 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


49 


of  their  future 
3  rapid  strides, 
he  rough  ways 
>en  shallows— 
n  the  streams, 
•  extirpation  in 
I  may  observe. 
ry  of  their  pur. 
ysical  comforts 

system  under 
t  of  joyous  ad. 
rers,  has  beer 
of  the  vast  con 
e  Atlantic,  anc 
>  the  Pole,  saT( 
Russians  on  th( 
►f  the  Hudson's 
ise  region  thej 
distances;  anc 
led  to  each  sta 

voyageurs  an 
ange  of  adven 
to  be  their  fina 
1  fed,  and  neec 

they  have  les; 

ialfood.  The- 
hey  have  mor 
dom,  but  mor- 

voyageurs,  ani 
!  Company,  a 
idertaking,  wil 
their  treatmer 
)od  is  their  on! 
1  as  they  hav 

"  says  Simpson 


"  we  entertained  our  assembled  people  with  a  dance,  fol- 
lowed by  a  supper  consisting  of  the  best  fare  we  could 
command.     By  this  time  we  had,  through  our  indefati- 
gable exertions,  accumulated  two  or  three  weeks'  pro- 
visions in   advance,   and  no   scarcity  was   experienced 
during  the  remainder  of  the  season.    The  daily  rations 
served  out  to  each  man  was  increased  from  eight  to  ten, 
and  to  some  individuals  twelve,  pounds  of  venison,  or, 
when  they  could  be  got,  four  or  five  white-fish,  weighing 
from  fifteen  to  twenty  pounds.     This  quantity  of  solid 
food,  immoderate  as  it  may  appear,  does  not  exceed  the 
average  standard  of  the  country ;  and  ought  certainly  to 
\  satisfy  the  inordinate  appetite  of  a  French  Canadian ;  yet 
there  was  one  of  them  who  complained  he  had  not  enough, 
mnd  did  not  scruple   to  help  himself  to  an  additional 
jiupply  whenever  the  opportunity  offered — it  would  have 
Itaken  twenty  pounds  of  animal  food  daily  to  satisfy  him." 
The  Company's  servants  are  not  less  well  clothed  and 
paid  than  they  are  fed.     They  are  treated  by  their  imme- 
diate masters  with  a  familiar  kindness,  surpassing  what 
1 1  have  ever  seen  elsewhere,  even  in  the  United  States ; 
and  their  whole  condition  aflTords  the  strongest  possible 
contrast  to  the  wretched  situation  of  the  Russian  **pro- 
milschlenicks,"  as  described  by  Langsdaflf.     The  nature 
of  the  climate  and  the  long  journeys  demand,  it  is  true, 
hard  labour  hy  times;   but  it  is  labour  voluntarily  en- 
dured, and  less   physically  severe  than  the  compulsory 
trackings  on   the  rivers  of  Russia  and  China,  while  a 
great  part  of  the  year  is  spent  in  comparative  idleness ; 
'c  and  if  the  voyage ur  finds  the  fatigue  and  hardships  too 
great,  it  rests  with  himself  to  be  released  from  them  at 
the  close  of  his  three  years'  contract. 

The  canoes  generally  used  by  the  fur  traders  of  the 

ll  north  for  navigating  the  intricate  and  oflen  obstructed 

rivers,  are  between  thirty  and  forty  feet  long,  and  several 

feet   in  width,  constructed  of  birch   bark,  sewed  with 

fibres  of  the  roots  of  the  spruce  tree,  and  daubed  with 


1 


50 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


IM 


1^ 
M4 


I    i    ''1 


I  ill 


''"■  ''''I''!!'!!! 


i   |i; 


resin  of  the  pine,  in  place  of  tar.  These,  though  capable 
of  sustaining"  a  freight  of  four  tons  eacii,  can  readily  he 
carried  on  men's  shoulders.  Canoes  of  this  kind  are  gene. 
rally  managed  by  eight  or  ten  men,  two  of  whom  arc 
picked  veterans,  who  received  double  wages,  and  arc  sta- 
tioned  one  at  the  bow,  the  other  at  tiic  stern,  to  keep  a 
look-out  and  to  steer :  they  are  termed  the  foreman  and 
the  steersman.  The  rest,  who  ply  the  paddles,  are  called 
middle  men.  When  there  is  a  favourable  breeze,  the  canoe 
is  occasionally  navigated  with  a  sail.  From  the  lightness 
of  such  materials  as  the  canoes  were  made  of — bark — tlie 
utmost  vigilance,  patience,  and  exertion,  were  necessary 
for  the  intricate  and  difficult  navigation  in  which  they 
were  often  employed.  Sometimes  the  boat  would  be 
exposed  to  frequent  danger  from  floating  trees,  and  great 
masses  of  drifl-wood;  or  be  impaled  on  sunken  trees, 
presenting  a  jagged  or  pointed  end  above  the  surface  of 
the  water.  Sometimes  the  boat  should  be  drawn  by  the 
hand,  and  by  grappling-hooks,  from  one  root  or  over- 
hanging  tree  to  another,  or  drawn  by  towing-lines,  when 
the  shores  were  sufficiently  clear  to  allow  the  men  to 
pass  along  the  banks.  Sometimes  a  part  of  the  crew 
would  have  to  leap  into  the  water  at  the  shallows,  and 
wade  along  with  the  towing-lines,  while  their  comrades 
on  board  assisted  them  with  oatr  and  setting-pole.  Some- 
times  the  boat  would  seem  to  be  retained  motionless,  as 
if  spell-bound,  opposite  some  point  round  which  the  cur. 
rent  set  with  violence,  and  with  the  utmost  labour  scarce 
effected  any  visible  progress.  When  it  is  considered 
that  they  penetrated  into  the  interior  to  the  distance  of 
three  or  four  thousand  miles — exposed  sometimes  to  a 
scorching  sun,  sometimes  to  the  most  piercing  cold — 
cutting  their  way  through  drifting  ice — suffering  from 
physical  privations,  through  unknown  ana  barren  regions 
— beset  with  dangers,  without  any  certain  prospect  of 
reaching  any  place  of  security  and  comfort,  wome  con- 
ception  may  be  formed  of  the  life  of  a  northwest  voyageur. 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


51 


ough  capable 
in  readily  he 
:ind  arc  gene. 
af  whom  arc 
,  and  arc  s ta- 
rn, to  keep  a 
foreman  and 
'es,  arc  called 
3ze,  the  canoe 
the  liglitncss 
){■ — bark — the 
;rc  necessary 
I  which  they 
at   would   be 
es,  and  great 
lunken   trees, 
the  surface  of 
drawn  by  the 
root  or  over, 
g-lines,  when 
the  men  to 
of  the  crew 
shallows,  and 
sir  comrades 
pole.     Some- 
tiotionless,  as 
hich  the  cur- 
abour  scarce 
considered 
distance  of 
letimes  to  a 
rcing  cold — 
iFering  from 
irren  regions 
prospect  of 
;,  8ome  con- 
jst  voyage  ur. 


i 


A  stranger  seeing  these  light  and  slender  vessels  piled 
high  with  a  load  of  goods  of  every  kind  packed  in  bales, 
each  weighing  ninety  pounds ;  with  their  various  neces- 
saries of  clothing,  food,  &c.,  also  stowed  away  in  bales; 
and  with  hampers,  boxes,  &,e.,  containing  the  articles  of 
the  officers ;  and  seeing  them  weighed  down  in  the  water 
to  the  gunwale's  edge — he  would  think  it  an  act  of  utter 
desperation  to  attempt  to  pass  in  them  through  boisterous, 
intricate,  and  obstructed  waters.  But  so  practised,  hardy, 
and  zealous  are  these  voyageurs,  that  danger  or  accident 
but  very  rarely  occurs. 

There  arc  no  birch  canoes  used  in  the  Oregon  country 
by  the  Company's  servants.  They  use  only  the  batteaux, 
which  arc  made  of  quarter-inch  pine  boards,  and  are 
thirty-two  feet  long,  and  six  and  a  half  feet  wide  in 
Jhnidships,  with  both  ends  sharp,  and  without  a  keel — 
Worked,  according  to  the  circumstances  of  the  naviga- 
tion, with  paddles,  or  with  oars.  These  boats  are  found 
to  be  better  adapted  to  the  lakes  and  rivers  there,  than 
the  canoes  of  the  north. 

When  the  voyageurs  arrive  at  a  portage^  whether  the 
vessels  used  be  canoes  or  batteaux,  every  thing  is  un- 
shipped ;  and  each  voyageur  carries  two  bales,  or  one 
hundred  and  eighty  pounds  weight,  on  his  back,  held  by 
a  strap  passing  round  his  forehead,  on  which  the  force  of 
the  drauglit  lies :  and  with  this  weight  they  will  run  on 
briskly,  sometimes  for  miles. 


:t 


CHAPTER  VI. 

Description  of  the  present  settlement  at  lied  River— hunting 

the  buffalo. 


;i2s 


P      When  the  Northwest  Company  became  merged  in  the 
I  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  and  the  latter  were  left  at  full 


52 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


illlli'hi''       >l 


:r:  'III 


i     I 


iilii 


li 


liberty  to  prosecute  their  plans  of  improvement  without 
rivalry  or  interruption,  they  restored  the  settlement  at 
Red  River,  and  on  a  more  extended  scale. 

From  the  circumstances  connected  with  its  original 
formation — from  the  singularity  of  its  position  and  cJia- 
racter,  it  being  a  sort  of  oasis  in  the  vast  waste  of  a 
savage  region — from  its  present  and  growing  importance 
to  the  objects  of  the  colony,  a  brief  sketch  'of  it  may  not 
be  uninteresting.  It  is  situated  in  the  fiftieth  degree  of 
north  latitude,  and  the  ninety-seventh  of  west  longitude, 
at  an  elevation  of  about  one  thousand  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  sea,  and  near  the  conlluence  of  the  Red  and  As. 
sinaboine  rivers,  whose  united  waters  run  northward 
about  thirty  miles,  into  Lake  Winnipeg,  which  receives 
many  other  tributary  streams.  These  two  large  rivers 
flow  through  a  fertile  country  of  vast  extent,  which  pos. 
sesses  a  salubrious  climate.  The  Red  River  rises  in  the 
United  States,  near  the  sources  of  the  Mississippi,  and 
runs  northward.  The  Assinaboine  flows  from  the  north- 
west. The  cold  season  lasts  about  five  months,  from 
November  till  April.  But  the  ice  on  Lake  Winnipeg  docs 
not  break  up  till  May.  At  the  opening  of  the  fine  season, 
an  immense  quantity  of  sturgeon  and  other  fish  is  caught. 
There  are  occasionally  summer  frosts,  generated  by  un- 
drained  marshes,  which  impede  the  exertions  of  the 
husbandman ;  but  this  evil  is  gradually  melting  away 
before  the  march  of  cultivation.  The  range  of  the  settle- 
ment stretches  upwards  of  fifty  miles  along  the  romantic 
and  woody  banks  of  those  rivers.  Their  borders  are  cul- 
tivated  to  the  breadth  of  nearly  a  mile ;  all  the  back 
country  remaining  in  a  great  measure  in  its  original 
state — a  vast  natural  pasture,  covered  for  the  greater 
part  of  the  year  with  cattle,  and  furnishing  the  colonists 
with  a  sufficient  quantity  of  hay  for  the  support  of  their 
herds  during  the  winter.  Horses,  horned  cattle,  hogs, 
and  poultry,  are  exceedingly  numerous.  Sheep  have  been 
brought  at  great  expense  by  the  Company,  from  England 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


ncnt  without 
settlement  at 

I  its  original 
Lion  and  elm. 
it  waste  of  a 
g  importance 
)f  it  may  not 
eth  degree  of 
}st  longitude, 
l)ovc  the  level 
Red  and  As. 
n  northward 
hicli  receives 
»  large  rivers 
t,  which  pos- 
;r  rises  in  the 
ssissippi,  and 
)m  the  north- 
nonths,  from 
innipcg  does 
e  fine  season, 
ish  is  caught, 
rated  by  un- 
ions  of  the 
lelting  away 
of  the  settle- 
the  romantic 
ders  are  cul- 
all  the  back 
its  original 
the   greater 
the  colonists 
port  of  their 
cattle,  hogs, 
ip  have  been 
om  England 


and  the  United  States,  nnd  arc  reared  with  success. 
Wheat,  biirloy,  oats,  potatoes,  turnips,  nnd  most  of  the 
culinary  vcgetablos,  thrive  well.  Pumpkins,  melons,  and 
euc.umlM'rs  arrive  at  maturity  in  the  open  air,  in  the 
iHvoiirahlc  season.  The  cultivation  of  maize,  peas,  and 
bciiiis  projnises  success.  Hops  grow  luxuriantly.  Flax 
and  lump,  whieii  have  been  introduced,  show  every 
ap[)rarance,  in  progress  of  time,  of  being  made  profitable 
cro(H.  In  lino,  this  extraordinary  colony,  in  so  high  a 
latitude,  is   likely   to  be   rendered  productive  in  all  the 

? necessaries  and  comtbrts  even,  and  many  of  the  luxuries 

lof  civilized  Europe. 

The  most  common  sorts  of  wood  are  oak,  poplar,  elm, 
and  maple ;  pines  are  likewise  found  towards  Lake  Win. 
aipeg.  On  this  lake  two-decked  vessels  ply,  in  summer, 
between  the  colony  and  the  entrep6t  at  Norway  House, 
irhich  is  situated  at  its  northern  extremity,  where  the 
fiver  navigation  to  Hudson's  Bay  commences,  as  the 
lake  is  emptied  into  that  bay  by  the  Nelson  River.  Fire- 
*vood  is  railed  down  the  rivers,  from  above  the  limits  of 
Ihe  colony,  during  the  summer,  or  transported  on  sledges 
iduring  the  snow  and  frost.  But  to  obviate  all  chance  of 
a  scarcity  in  the  supply  of  this  article,  the  colonists  arc 
providing  themselves  with  cast-iron  stoves,  which  occa- 
iion  a  much  less  consumption  of  fuel.  As  the  population 
is  chiefly  Catholic,  and  as  the  colony  is,  at  present,  the 
most  suitable  centre  fi-om  which  to  spread  the  blessings 
of  religion  and  civilization  over  that  immense  tract  of 
country,  a  Roman  Catholic  bishop  has  been  stationed 
there.  The  two  principal  churches — the  Protestant  and 
the  Roman  Catholic — the  jail,  the  Company's  chief 
buildings,  the  bishop's  residence,  and  the  houses  of  some 
retired  ofllicers  of  the  fur  trade — who  choose  this  as  their 
lasting  home,  in  place  of  returning  to  their  native  country 

'  — are  built  of  stone.     The  generality  of  settlers  live  in 

;  frame  or  log  houses,  roofed  with  wooden  slabs,  bark,  or 
shingles ;  and  arc  for  the  most  part  whitewashed 


part 
5* 


pa] 


54 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


r  I 


II  i  'I 


II 


•II I'll 'I 

ill!. 


externally.  Every  man,  however  low  his  condition,  pos. 
scsses  a  horse  ;  and  tlicy  vie  with  each  other  in  guy  cur. 
ricles,  harness,  saddles,  and  fine  clothes.  A  {jreat  abun. 
dance  of  English  goods  is  imported,  both  by  the  Company 
and  by  individuals,  in  the  Conipany's  annual  ships,  to 
York  Factory,  at  Hudson's  Bay,  and  disposed  of  in  the 
colony  at  moderate  prices.  Labour  is  dear,  and  produce 
of  every  kind  sells  at  a  higher  price  than  could  be  ex. 
pccted  in  a  place  so  remote  and  secluded.  Domestic 
manufactures  are  beginning  to  make  way,  and,  by  dirni- 
nishing  the  annual  orders  from  England,  to  make  the 
people  more  independent.  They  now  manufacture  coarse 
cloths,  stuffs,  shawls,  linen,  sacking,  leather,  &c. ;  and 
even  for  their  grain  and  domestic  cattle,  they  arc  begin, 
ning  to  find  a  market  among  the  Americans  of  the  level 
plains  leading  to  the  Mississippi  and  the  St.  Peter's; 
and  it  is  probable  that  before  long  they  will  export  hides, 
tallow,  wool,  hemp,  and  flax  to  England. 

The  currency  of  the  place  consists  of  the  Company's 
notes,  with  a  smaller  amount  of  silver  and  copper  coin. 
There  are  fifleen  wind  and  three  water  mills,  to  grind 
the  wheat  and  prepare  the  malt  for  the  inhabitants,  who 
use  neither  barley  nor  oats  in  bread.  Though  the  Pre 
testants  constitute  but  two-fiflhs  of  the  population,  yet 
all  these  mills  are  in  their  hands,  except  two,  which  have 
been  erected  by  a  Roman  Catholic,  in  the  Company's  pay, 
as  warden  of  the  plains.  It  may  be  remarked  that,  while 
many  of  the  children  of  the  Company's  retired  European 
servants,  who  are  chiefly  Orkneymen,  by  native  women, 
inherit  the  plodding  and  careful  disposition  of  their 
lathers,  the  half-bred  descemdants  of  the  French  Canadians 
are  generally  characterized  by  their  fathers'  levity  and 
extravagance,  and  their  mothers'  violent  passions.  Many 
of  the  Scotch,  who  first  planted  the  colony  in  1812,  under 
the  auspices  of  the  Em  1  of  Selkirk,  have  amassed  hand- 
some sums  of  money,  besides  rearing  large  families  in 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


tf 


Qndition,  pos. 
r  in  gay  cur. 
V.  jrroat  abun. 
the  Company 
lual  ships,  to 
)8C(1  of  in  the 
f  and  produce 
1  could  bo  ex. 
I.  Domestic 
and,  by  diini- 

to  make  tlic 
'acturc  coarse 
er,  &LC. ;  and 
i3y  arc  begin. 
s  of  the  level 
1  St.  Peter's; 

export  hides, 

ic  Company's 
copper  coin, 
lills,  to  grind 
abitants,  who 
ugh  the  Pro. 
pulation,  yet 
),  which  have 
impany's  pay, 
)d  that,  while 
red  European 
itive  women, 
ion  of  their 
ch  Canadians 
levity  and 
sions.  Many 
I  1812,  under 
nassed  hand- 
)  families  in 


rustic  plenty.  Some,  fearinjr  tlic  consequences  of  inter- 
marry injr  with  the  half  breeds,  have  migrated  elsewhere. 
The  Company,  besides  extensive  purchases  of  grain 
and  provision  for  their  trans{X)rt  and  other  service,  an- 
nually expends  large  sums  at  Red  River  for  works  of 
public  utility,  such  as  experimental  farming — tiie  erec- 
tion of  churches,  and  other  buildings — endowing  schools 
•— alfording  medical  aid  gratis  to  the  poor — encouraging 
jjomcstic  manufactures — maintaining  an  armed  police — 
dii^pcnsing  justice,  and  in  contributing  to  the  support  of 
two  Protestant  clergymen,  of  a  Roman  Catholic  bishop, 
and  three  priests  from  Canada.  Through  the  exertions 
of  these  zealous  ministers  a  great  number  of  the  Indians, 
pf  the  Cree  and  Saltcaux  or  Chippeway  nations,  have 
keen  converted  and  located.  From  this  heavy  outlay  tlie 
Company  has  hitherto  had  no  return ;  for  the  occasional 
lie  of  lands  has  not  as  yet  defrayed  the  expenses  of  the 
purvey,  (they  being,  in  most  instances,  bestowed  gratis, 
hough  purchased  from  the  Indians),  and  the  immediate 
|ieighbourhood  has  been  stripped  of  the  fur-bearing  ani- 
tnals.  Yet,  under  the  Company's  fostering  care,  a  popu- 
lation of  five  thousand  persons  has  been  reared  up  in 
plenty,  comfort,  and  civilization ;  and  the  colony  is  every 
day  growing  in  numbers,  wealth,  and  importance.  There 
§X(i  also  excellent  Ix^arding-schools  established  by  the 
l^ev.  Mr.  Jones,  where  nearly  one  hundred  youth  of  both 
texes,  the  children  of  the  Company's  officers,  and  the 
more  respectable  settlers,  are  trained  up  in  European  ac- 
complishments, and  in  the  strictest  principles  of  religion. 
The  Indian  settlements,  too,  at  the  lower  extremity  of 
the  colony,  founded  by  the  Rev.  Mr.  Cockran,  are  worthy 
of  notice.  He  has  provided  scliool-masters  for  the  native 
children,  and  built  places  of  worship,  where  he  regularly 
officiates.  He  has  also  constructed  a  windmill  for  the 
Indians — assists  them  in  erecting  their  wooden  houses; 
I  and  in  every  way  sets  them  the  example  of  industry.  At 
:the  other  extremity  of  the  colony,  Mr.  Balcour,  one  of  the 


1  ■ 


Ml 


!i!i; 


si' 


111. ii.  . 


'1! 


56 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


Roman  Catliolic  priests,  conducts  a  location  of  Saltcaux 
Indians  on  a  smaller  scale.  The  colony  has  also  a  semi. 
nary,  from  which  home  missionaries — ^young-  Indians  edu. 
cated  in  the  Church  Missionary  Society's  school — are 
to  be  sent  to  instruct  their  countrymen  in  varions  parts 
of  the  Company's  almost  unbounde^l  territories.  In  the 
countries  of  the  Columbia  and  New  Caledonia,  to  the 
westward  of  the  groat  Rocky  Mountain  chain,  these  mis. 
sionary  labours  will  have  a  rich  field.  There  the  climate 
is  softened  by  the  influences  of  the  Pacific :  food  is  abun- 
dant ;  the  numerous  natives  do  not  lead  the  same  solitary 
wandering  and  precarious  lives  as  the  northeastern 
tribes,  but  dwell  together  in  villages.  They  are  endowed 
with  a  greater  capacity  and  quickness  of  apprehension; 
are  men  pliant  and  tractable  in  temper ;  appreciate  more 
the  talents,  attainments,  and  social  arts  of  the  white  men; 
and  are  fonder  of  imitating  and  adopting  their  customs 
and  principles.  Therefore  they  seem  now  more  disposed 
to  embrace  the  doctrines  of  Christianity,  to  many  prin- 
ciples  of  which  their  own  belief  approximates,  from 
those  on  whom,  a  few  years  ago,  they  committed  the 
most  barbarous  murders. 

But  in  the  dreary  regions  of  the  north,  where  the  In. 
dian  hunters  are  scattered  through  interminable  forests ; 
and  where  civilization  can  but  slowly,  if  ever,  penetrate, 
the  prospects  of  their  conversion  are  fainter  and  more 
remote.  Yet  even  among  these,  since  the  coalition  of  the 
rival  companies,  and  the  dismissal  of  the  numerous 
swarms  of  adventurers,  who,  encouraged  by  the  license 
of  fierce  opposition,  overran  and  nearly  ruined  the  coun- 
try, morality,  order,  and  integrity  have  been,  in  some  de- 
gree, introduced  through  the  agency  of  the  Company's 
officers.  Referring  to  the  improved  condition  of  the  In- 
dians, produced  through  the  instrumentality  of  the  Com- 
pany,  Mr.  Simpson  observes,  »*  no  stronger  proof  of  the 
salutary  effect  of  their  injunctions  can  be  adduced  than 
tliat,  while  peace  and  decorum  mark  the  general  conduct 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


57 


3n  of  Saltcaiix 
IS  also  a  semi. 
T  Indians  cdu- 
s  school — arc 
1  various  parts 
ories.  In  the 
edonia,  to  the 
ain,  these  mis- 
?re  the  climate 
:  food  is  abun- 
!  same  solitary 
!  northeastern 
y  are  endowed 
apprehension ; 
ppreciate  more 
he  white  men; 
their  customs 
more  disposed 
to  many  prin- 
ximates,  from 
committed  the 

where  the  In. 
inable  forests; 
ver,  penetrate, 
ter  and  more 
oalition  of  the 
he  numerous 
jy  the  license 
ned  the  coun- 
in  some  de- 
le  Company's 
on  of  the  In- 
of  the  Corn- 
proof  of  the 
idduced  than 
leral  conduct 


)f  the  northern  tribes,  bloodshed,  rapine,  and  unbridled 
^ust,  are  the  characteristics  of  the  fierce  hordes  of  Assina- 
boines,  Piegans,  Blacktcet,  Circees,  Fall,  and  Blood  In- 
dians, who  inhabit  the  plains  between  the  Saskatchewan 
ftnd  the  Missouri  rivers,  and  which  are  without  the  pale 
^f  the  Company's  influence  and  authority." 
:■!  Among  the  many  advantages  which  the  Company  is 
iBibouring  to  bestow  on  the  whole  race  of  Indians,  one  of 
|he  most  important  is  the  cementing  of  fraternal  and 
^cific  feelings  between  them,  and  the  reconciliation  of 
fheir  inveterate  feuds.  Formerly  it  was  the  vile  and  per- 
llicious  practice  of  rival  traders  to  foment  the  discords  of 
|he  several  tribes,  with  a  view  of  reaping  advantage  from 
#icm  ;  for  they  often  succeeded,  by  weakening  one  after 
K^c  other,  in  reducing  both  to  entire  submissiveness  to 
^ir  purposv^s ;  and  they  could  then  dictate  the  terms  of 
iding  with  tliem  as  they  pleased  :  or  if  they  could  not 
se  them  in  this  way,  they  used  them  as  instruments  to 
moy  their  competitors,  by  crippling  their  trade,  and 
lising  up  enemies  against  them.  Tims  the  natives,  in 
le  complex  and  ramified  system  of  commercial  competi- 
Hon  for  a  long  time  carried  on  in  the  northwest,  were 
llommitted  against  the  traders,  and  became  involved  in 
Hostility  with  one  another.  This  hostility  acquiring 
tflrcngth  and  inveteracy  with  each  succeeding  act  of  ag- 
j^eseion  and  retaliation,  outlived  the  original  cause ;  and 
often  lasted  for  generations  after  the  first  instigators 
<5piitted  the  scene,  and  ceased  to  feel  the  remotest  interest 
In  the  progress  and  consequences  of  their  own  misdoing. 
Their  maxim  seemed  to  be — 

"  Mischief,  thou  art  afoot ; 

Take  now  whatever  course  thou  wilt." 


'   M 


But  all  the  exertions  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  to 
theck  and  extinguish  these  evils  are,  to  some  extent, 
Ihwarted  by  the  conduct  of  the  United  States'  traders, 


I" 


:  1 


I  i 
i  I 

HI 


t  \ 


iljfe 


ilii' 


Hi.iiiiH! 


» 


III  I 


58 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


who  labour  to  keep  alive  all  the  vices  of  the  old  Canadian 
system,  and  to  introduce,  with  all  their  characteristic 
graspingncss  and  perseverance,  new  ones.  They  con. 
sider  that  every  artifice  is  legitimate  in  trade ;  and  in 
place  of  blushing-  at  its  infamy,  they  chuckle  at  its  clever, 
ness.  The  Company  has  endeavoured  to  reconcile  the 
hostile  tribes  to  each  other, — to  induce  them  to  spare  the 
young  of  the  fur-bearing  animals,  so  as  to  preserve  the 
breed,  and  keep  the  trade  alive  for  the  benefit  of  both 
•parties  in  perpetuity ;  and  to  discountenance  the  use  of 
ardent  spirits,  which  have  been  so  baneful  to  the  natives. 
But  the  Americans,  for  the  sake  of  eflTecting  an  immc. 
diate  and  temporary  gain,  pursue  generally  tlie  very  op. 
posite  cou:  se. 

At  Red  River  the  buflfaloes  are  now  seldom  taken  in 
pounds.  Here  it  may  be  observed,  that  to  a  stranger  the 
wild  buffalo  bull,  with  his  large  hump,  glaring  eyes, 
fierce  aspect,  and  long  beard,  that  almost  sweeps  the 
ground,  when  encountered  in  the  recesses  of  the  forest, 
or  in  tlie  open  plain,  where  there  is  no  chance  of  escape, 
is  the  most  formidable  animal  in  America — far  more  so 
than  the  panther,  or  grisly  bear.  In  the  summer  and 
autumn  large  parties  of  the  half-breed  hunters,  all  mount, 
ed  on  their  small  Indian  horses,  which  are  well  broken 
in  to  this  sport,  scatter  themselves  over  the  plains,  camp, 
ing  generally  in  the  open  air,  or  in  tents  covered  with 
hides;  or  under  their  provision  carts.  As  soon  as  the 
buffaloes  are  perceived,  the  young  men  gallop  afler  them, 
and  either  partially  surprise  them  on  the  plains,  or  sue 
cecd  in  driving  them  into  some  little  valley  or  neck  of 
land,  projecting  into  a  lake,  where  escape  is  difficult.  A 
running  fire  then  opens  all  along  the  line.  At  the  first 
volley  the  buflTalocs  scamper  off.  The  hunters  continue 
the  pursuit,  reloading  their  guns  while  their  horses  are  in 
full  gallop ;  for  the  sake  of  expedition  the  bullets  are  car. 
ried  in  the  mouth,  and  dropped  into  the  barrel  without 
any  wadding :  their  small  whips  are  attached  by  a  band 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


59 


old  Canadian 
characteristic 
;.  They  con- 
trade;  and  in 
e  at  its  clever. 

reconcile  the 
n  to  spare  the 
5  preserve  the 
)enefit  of  both 
ice  the  use  of 

to  the  natives, 
fing  an  imme- 
ly  tlie  very  op. 

Idom  taken  in 
a  stranger  the 
glaring-  eyes, 
Dst  sweeps  the 
s  of  the  forest, 
ince  of  escape, 
-far  more  so 
c  summer  and 
ters,  all  mount, 
re  well  broken 
plains,  camp. 
covered  with 
s  soon  as  the 
Hop  after  them, 
plains,  or  sue 
ley  or  neck  of 
is  difficult.    A 
At  the  first 
nters  continue 
lir  horses  are  in 
[bullets  are  car. 
barrel  without 
thed  by  a  band 


J  to  the  right  wrist.  The  horse,  with  wonderful  sagacity, 
I  follows  of  his  own  accord  the  animal  which  his  rider  has 
singled  out,  and  brings  him  alongside  ;  and  the  rider  then 
discharges  his  weapon  unerringly.  The  horse  then  pur- 
sues another  with  similar  success.  In  this  way  many 
|)uffaloes  in  succession  arc  shot  by  the  same  hunter ;  and 
f^iindrcds  fall  in  a  single  race.  No  sight  can  be  livelier 
^han  a  camp  of  successful  hunters.  They  generally  pitch 
some  clump  or  point  of  woods :  the  provision  carts 
)rm  the  outer  circle,  to  which  the  horses  are  tied ;  within 
|his  fires  blaze  on  every  side.  The  men  smoke  their 
i)i{)es,  or  arrange  their  fire-arms ;  while  the  women  are 
(^mployed  in  cooking  a  sumptuous  repast.  The  jest  and 
|hc  laugh  circulate  freely  all  around.  During  the  time 
l^e  men  arc  employed  in  hunting,  the  females  are  occu- 
,ed  in  drying  tlic  spare  meat,  or  converting  it  into 
mican. 

Pcmican, — This  far-famed  provender  for   man  in  the 

ilds  of  northern  America  is  formed  by  pounding  the 

oice  parts  of  the  meat  very  small,  dried  over  a  slow 

e,  or  in  the  frost,  and  putting  it  into  bags  made  of  tlie 

in  of  the    slain  animal ;   into  which  a  proportion  of 

ijielted  fat  is  then  poured.  The  whole  then  being  strongly 

impressed,  and  sewed  up,  constitutes  the  best  and  most 

portable   food  for  the  voyageurs,  and  one  which,  with 

ptoper  care,  will  keep  for  a  long  time.     Fifty  pounds  of 

||oundcd  meat,  and  forty  pounds  of  grease,  make  a  hair  of 

nemican.    There  is  another  kind,  called  the  sweet  pemi- 

Oan,  of  which  berries  constitute  the  chief  ingredient. 

I  In  the  winter  season,  this  sport  assumes  a  more  various 

l^aractcr.    When  the  snow  is  not  deep,  the  buflfalo  may 

|>e  run  on  horseback  as  in  summer :  indeed,  if  the  herd  be 

lumerous,  they  beat  such  a  track  with  their  broad  hoofs, 

.|hat  they  are  easily  pursued.     At  other,  times  they  are 

Jlpproached  by  the  hunter  crawling  on  the  snow.     He 

i^valks  up  within  a  certain  distance,  far  enough  not   to 

jilarm  the  herd — then  prostrates  himself  on  the  snow — 


•  <!l 


ill 


f  i 


HP. 


ii 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


drags  himseii'  along  on  his  belly,  with  his  gun  trailing 
after  him;  and  in  this  way  proceeds  a  long  distanct 
before  he  can  get  within  reach  when  the  buffaloes  art 
shy.  When  fatigued  with  this  laborious  and  unnatiiral 
motion,  he  stops  for  a  time  to  recruit  himself;  he  then 
throws  up  a  little  heap  of  snow  before  him  to  screen  him 
from  his  prey.  Some  of  the  hunters  are  said  to  be  so 
dexterous  in  this  mode  of  approach,  as  actually  to  drive 
aside  the  old  bulls  who  form  the  outer  guard  of  the  herd, 
in  order  to  select  the  choicest  of  the  cows.  In  order  to 
effect  this  object,  he  wears  tlie  disguise  of  a  close  dun- 
coloured  cap,  furnished  with  upright  ears,  to  give  him 
the  appearance  of  a  wolf:  for  from  constant  association, 
that  animal  is  regarded  by  the  buffalo  without  dread.  In 
the  spring  of  the  year,  when  there  is  a  hard  crust  on  the 
snow,  produced  by  alternate  thaw  and  frost,  the  buffa- 
loes  are  frequently  run  down  by  the  hunters,  and  stabbed 
with  their  daggers,  while  floundering  in  the  deep  drifts, 
which  yield  to  their  weight,  but  support  their  pursuers, 
who  are  borne  up  by  their  snow-shoes.  In  this  way, 
which  is  the  easiest  and  safest  of  all,  the  animals  fall  a 
prey  even  to  the  boys  and  women. 

It  is  well  worth  while  to  insert  here  the  following 
sketch  of  the  northern  Indians,  from  Mr.  Simpson  : — 

"  No  people  so  soon  get  tired  of  any  particular  diet  a? 
Indians :  and  their  longings  for  change,  even  amidst  tb 
best  cheer,  are  often  truly  ridiculous.  The  flexibility  oi 
their  stomachs  is  no  less  surprising.  At  one  time  they 
will  gorge  themselves  with  food,  and  are  then  prepared  t( 
go  without  any  for  several  days,  if  necessary.  Ente: 
their  tents ;  sit  there,  if  you  can,  for  a  whole  day,  anc 
not  for  an  instant  will  you  find  the  fire  unoccupied  by 
persons  of  all  ages  cooking.  When  not  hunting  or  tra 
veiling,  they  are,  in  fact,  always  eating.  Now,  it  is  a 
little  roast,  a  partridge  or  rabbit  perhaps ;  now,  a  tid-bii 
broiled  under  the  ashes ;  anon,  a  portly  kettle,  well  filloc 
with  venison,  swings  over  the  fire  ;  then  comes  a  choice 


!  i 

I 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


01 


J  gun  trailing 
long  distance 

buffaloes  are 
ind  unnatural 
(iself ;  he  then 
to  screen  him 
5  said  to  be  sc 
itually  to  drive 
rd  of  the  herd, 
I.    In  order  to 
)f  a  close  dun. 
s,  to  give  him 
int  association, 
lout  dread.    In 
,rd  crust  on  th( 
post,  the  buffa. 
rs,  and  stabbed 
the  deep  drifts, 
their  pursuers, 
In  this  way, 

animals  fall  a 

the  following 
Simpson : — 
rticular  diet  aj 
ven  amidst  tlu 
he  flexibility  oi 

one  time  thev 

len  prepared  t( 

:essary.    Ente: 

hole  day,  anc 

unoccupied  by 
|hunting  or  tra 
Now,  it  is  2 
1;  now,  a  tid-bii 
lettle,  well  fiUef 

:oraes  a  choict 


dish  of  curdled  blood,  followed  by  the  sinews  and  marrow, 
bones  of  deer's  legs  singed  on  the  embers.     And  so  the 
grand   business   of  life  goes   unceasingly  round,  inter- 
rupted  only  by  sleep.   Another  physical  singularity  of  the 
nortliern  tribes  is,  that  though  capable  of  resistinjr  with 
igrcat  fortitude  the  most  intense  cold,  they  are  wonder- 
fully fond  of  fire.     At  an  establishment,  even  when  the 
iveathcr  is  mild  and  pleasant  out  of  doors,  they  are  to  be 
:^cn  heaping  on  fuel  in  the  house,  and  actually  sitting 
ibross-legged  on  the  hearth,  where   a  white  man  would 
Ipecdily  be  roasted.     I  have,  however,  remarked  that  the 
Invariable  effect  of  North  American  climate  is  to  render 
liven  Europeans  more  chilly  than  on  their  first  arrival ; 
from  which  we  must  infer  that  there  is  something  dcbili- 
lilting  in  the  climate  or  mode  of  life.    It  is  a  general  rule 
long  the  traders,  not  to  believe  the  first  story  of  an 
idian.    He  will  tell  you  on  arriving  that  there  are  no 
jer,  and  afterwards  acknowledge  them  to  be  numerous ; 
lat  he  has  been  starving,  when  he  has  been  living  in 
mndance;  that  certain  individuals  are  dead,  yet  after 
has  smoked  bis  pipe,  and  eaten  his  fill,  ask  him  what 
the  matter  with  these  same  persons,  and  he  will  de- 
fcribe   some  trifling  ailments,   a   surfeit,  perhaps ;    for 
fcougli  at  times  these  people  endure  with  great  fortitude. 
He  least  sickness  makes  them  say,  *  I  am  going  to  die  !' 
i#a  trait  that  also  extends  to  their  half-breed  dcscen- 
4ints." 

{  Much  has  been  written  about  the  origin  of  the  popula- 
tion of  North  America.  The  general  opinion  seems  to 
Incline  to  the  theory,  that  they  came  from  Asia.  It  does 
Itot  come  within  the  scope  of  my  present  purpose  to  enter 
#1  this  inquiry,  even  were  I  competent  to  the  task ;  but  I 
may  state  what  has  been  the  most  probable  result  of  phi- 
losophical inquiry,  and  already  mentioned  by  others. 

The  tribes  who  possess  the  vast  region  to  the  north- 
Ward  of  a  line  drawn  from  Churchill  on  Hudson's  Bay, 
j|cross  the  Rocky  Mountains  to  New  Caledonia  and  the 

6 


it 


"^VR 


Mil'  :''^"M'ii 

mm 
mm 


II I  I  I 


62 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


Pacific,  comprehending  the  Chipewyans ;  the  Copper  In. 
dians ;  the  Beaver  Indians,  of  Peace  River ;  the  Dog-ribs, 
and  Hare  Indians,  of  M*Kenzie  River,  and  Great  Bear 
Lake;  the  Thcecanies,  Nahanies,  and    Dahadinuchs,  of 
the  mountains ;  and  the  Carriers,  of  New  Caledonia,  all 
speak  different  dialects  of  the  same   original  tongue. 
Next  to  these  succeed  the  Crees,  speaking  another  dis. 
tinct  language,  and  occupying  another  great  section  of 
the  continent,  extending  from  lesser  Slave  Lake  through 
the  woody  country  on  the  north  side  of  the  Saskatchewan 
River,  by  Lake  Winnipeg  to  York  Factory,  and  from 
thence  round  the  shores   of  Hudson  and  James   Bays. 
South  of  the  fiftieth  parallel,  the  circles  of  affinity  con- 
tract,  but  can  still  be  easily  traced.    The  Carriers  of 
New  Caledonia,  like  the  people  of  Hindostan,  used,  till 
lately,  to  burn  their  dead — a  ceremony  in  which  the 
widow  of  the  deceased,  though  not  sacrificed  as  in  the 
latter  country,  was  obliged  to  continue  beating  on  the 
breast  of  the  corpse,  while  it  slowly  consumed  on  the  fu- 
neral pile;  in  which  cruel  duty  she  was  often  severely 
scorched.    Instead  of  being  burned,  she  was  obliged  to 
serve,  as  a  slave,  the  relatives  of  her  deceased  husband 
for  a  series  of  years,  during  which  she  wore  around  her 
neck  a  small  bag,  containing  part  of  the  bones  or  ashes 
of  her  former  husband.    At  the  end  of  the  allotted  term, 
a  feast  was  made,  and  she  was  declared  at  liberty  to 
cast  off"  the  symbols  of  her  widowhood,  and  wed  again. 
These  customs  have  been  abolished  by  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company. 


.'I 


<-f  ■■ 


''™'  ii 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


63 


e  Copper  In. 
;he  Dog-ribs, 
Great  Bear 
ladinuchs,  of 
^ledonia,  all 
^inal  tongue, 
another  dis. 
sat  section  of 
Lake  through 
Saskatchewan 
iry,  and  from 
James   Bays, 
f  affinity  con- 
le  Carriers  of 
stan,  used,  till 
in  which  the 
iced  as  in  the 
leating  on  the 
led  on  the  fu- 
often  severely 
as  obliged  to 
lased  husband 
e  around  her 
ones  or  ashes 
allotted  term, 
at  liberty  to 
,d  wed  again. 
Hudson's  Bay 


CHAPTER  vn. 

Remarks  on  the  Company's  present  principles  of  dealing;  and 
the  mode  of  traffic  among  many  of  the  northern  tribes. 

The  principle  universally  acted  on  throughout  the 
Company's  territories,  which  have  been  now  reduced, 
considering  their  vast  extent,  and  the  many  difficulties  to 
be  encountered,  to  a  state  of  astonishing  quiet,  peace, 
^and  good  government,  is,  that  the  true  interests  of  the 
jtnative  Indian  and  the  white  resident  are  indissolubly 
united;  and  that  no  immediate  advantage,  or  prospect 
of  it,  is  to  stand  in  the  way  of  improving  the  condition 
of  the  natives. 

The  following  extract  from  the  standing  orders  of  the 
I  Company,  will  convey  an  idea — though  a  faint  one^-of 
^the  wise,  humane,  and  liberal  spirit  by  which  it  is 
^4 actuated.  :-*  i-. .>;;■,  -^  ■  -■■■•  v.-^.^;  -,"  r,  ■  • 
:^  "That  the  Indians  be  treated  with  kindness  and  in- 
:|dulgence;  and  mild  and  conciliatory  means  resorted  to, 
I  in  order  to  encourage  industry,  repress  vice,  and  inculcate 
^  morality — that  the  use  of  spirituous  liquors  be  gradually 
discontinued  in  the  few  districts  in  which  it  is  yet  indis- 
pensable ;  and  that  the  Indians  be  liberally  supplied  with 
requisite  necessaries — particularly  with  articles  of  ammu- 
nition, whether  they  have  the  means  of  paying  for  them, 
or  not"  >  t 

Since  these  general  orders  were  Issued,  the  Company, 
finding  the  success  of  this  humane  and  judicious  policy 
gradually  answering  the  proposed  aim,  has  at*  last  adopted 
the  bold  and  decisive  course  of  abolishing  altogether  the 
use  of  spirituous  liquors  as  articles  of  trade  with  the 


i  1 


'■i  I 


u 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


I 'I' 


f.iii 


I      :i 
I      i 


i!ill"i!;ii!i!!!!|lii 


Hi   ! 


|j,{.|l|illlllll!r 


natives.  They  have  not  only  done  this  in  the  territories 
within  their  own  jurisdiction ;  but  have,  by  a  new  article 
introduced  into  the  treaty  of  commerce,  entered  into  with 
the  Russians  by  Sir  George  Simpson,  stipulated  that  the 
Russians  should  act,  in  their  trading  with  the  natives,  on 
the  same  principle.  So  that  henceforward  one  source  of 
demoralization  will  be  dried  up. 

It  is  not  only  the  inclination  of  the  Company  to  render 
the  natives  comfortable,  and  pacific,  and  civilized,  but  it 
is  their  manifest  interest.  The  natives  are  best  able  to 
exert  themselves  in  collecting  furs  and  provisions,  when 
they  are  best  clothed,  and  supplied  with  ammunition; 
and  they  are  best  qualified  to  exert  their  individual  and 
united  powers  for  the  prosecution  of  their  trade,  on  which 
their  own  immediate  and  ultimate  good  depends,  when 
they  are  brought  to  a  state  of  peace  with  each  other,  and 
their  savage  passions  and  appetites  checked.  So  far  has 
it  been  the  wish  or  policy  of  the  Company  not  to  acquire 
an  undue  influence  over  them  by  loading  them  with 
debts,  that  repeated  attempts  have  been  made  to  reduce 
the  trade  to  simple  barter ;  and  they  have  oflen  cancelled 
the  debts  of  whole  tribes — for  instance,  since  the  junction 
of  the  two  companies  in  1821,  the  debts  of  the  Chipe. 
wyans  have  been  twice  cancelled.  But  from  the  peculiar 
disposition  and  customs  of  the  Indians — especially  the 
northern  Indians — ^these  good  intentions  have  not  yet 
produced  all  the  hoped-for  good,  although  they  are  gra. 
dually  working  out  their  object. 

The  Chipewyans  have  a  custom  which,  until  eradi- 
cated,  must  operate  as  a  check  on  their  progressive 
prosperity.  On  the  death  of  a  relative,  they  destroy 
guns,  ammunition,  blankets,  kettles ;  in  short  every  thing 
they  possess;  and  conclude  the  havoc  by  tearing  their 
huts  to  pieces.  When  these  transports  of  grief  have 
subsided,  they  find  themselves  reduced  to  utter  want, 
and  are  obliged  to  resort  to  the  nearest  establishments 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


65 


the  territories 
a  new  article 
3 red  into  with 
lated  that  the 
he  natives,  on 
one  source  of 

)any  to  render 
ivilizcd,  but  it 
e  best  able  to 
ovisions,  when 

ammunition . 
individual  and 
rade,  on  which 
depends,  when 
jach  other,  and 
3d.    So  far  has 

not  to  acquire 
ng  them  with 
lade  to  reduce 
often  cancelled 
the  junction 

of  the  Chipe. 
.m  the  peculiar 
(specially  the 

have  not  yet 
they  are  gra- 

until  eradi. 
lir  progressive 
1  they  destroy 
[)rt  every  thing 
tearing  their 
lof  grief  have 
Vo  utter  want, 
sstablishments 


for  a  fresh  supply  of  necessaries;  and  thus  their  debts 
arc  renewed,  and  their  wants  periodically  kept  alive. 
In  some  parts  of  the  Indian  territory,  the  hunting 
*  grounds  descend  by  inheritance  among  the  natives ;  antl 
this  right  of  property  is  rigidly  enforced.     But  where  no 
4,  sucli  salutary  law  prevails,  their  main  source  of  wealth — 
i  the  beaver — would  soon  be  exhausted  by  the  eager  search 
1  of  the  hunters,  if  the  Company  had  not  adopted  judicious 
I  regulations  to  prevent  the   havoc;   for  they   have,   for 
t:  several  years  past,  used  every  effort,  through  their  officers, 
I  to  exhort  the  natives  to  spare  the  young  of  that  animal. 
This  praiseworthy  design  has  been  successful  in  propor- 
tion as  the  natives  have  become  enlightened,  and  enabled 
to  see  their  own  true  interests;  and  the  breed  is  now 
^preserved  in  districts  where,  not  long  since,  they  were 
"hreatened   with   extinction.     But  the   attempt  will   be 
asily  understood   to   be  one   of  extreme  difficulty,  in 
onscquencc  of  the   passion   for  depriving   the   animal 
reation  of  life  so  strongly  implanted  in  the  breast  of  the 
orth  American  Indian,  that  it  costs  him  a  pang  to  pass 
ird,  beast,  or  fish,  without  an  effort  to  destroy  it,  whether 
le  stands  in  need  of  it  or  not.     The  tendency  to  destruc- 
iveness  is  a  vehement  instinct  of  their  nature. 

Near  York  Factory,  in  1831,  this  propensity,  contrary 

o  all  the  remonstrances  of  the  Company's  servants  at 

|that  place,  led  to  the   indiscriminate   destruction  of  a 

ipountless  herd   of  reindeer,   while   crossing   the  broad 

jBtream  of  Haye's  River,  in  the  height  of  summer.     The 

ijliatives  took  some  of  the  meat  for  present  use,  but  thou- 

.#ands  of  carcasses  were  abandoned  to  the  current,  and 

^^infeeted  the  river's  banks,  or  drifted  down  into  Hudson's 

Bay,  there  to  feed  the  sea-fowls  and  polar  bears.     As  if 

it  were  a  judgment  for  this  wanton  slaughter,  in  which 

1  women  and  children  participated,  the   deer  have   never 

I  since  visited  that  part  of  the  country  in  similar  numbers. 

In  sliort,  the  Indians,  accustomed  either  to  a  feast  or  a 

fast,  have  little  idea  beyond  the  present  gratification; 

6* 


66 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


i 


^1l!!: 

:-ili:i 


.1!.!."" 


«■;  !i  :::)ii! 


i!!! 


Il!:'iij;|ill!l! 


and  it  is  to  this  imprudence  that  deaths  by  starvation, 
and  the  occasional  desertion  of  infants,  and  the  helpless 
aged,  must  be  ascribed. 

The  quantity  of  provisions  furnished  by  the  Indians  to 
the  establishments  throughout  the  northern  districts,  is 
inconsiderable.  In  the  winter  season,  it  is  limited  to  the 
rib  pieces  of  the  moose,  red,  and  reindeer,  half  dried  in 
the  smoke  of  their  huts  or  tents,  (the  bones  being  removed 
for  lightness  of  carriage,)  with  an  occasional  addition  of 
some  tongues.  In  the  course  of  the  summer,  when  the 
animals  are  easily  hunted,  and  there  is  great  facility  of 
water.transport,  the  more  industrious  families  usually 
bring  to  the  fort  a  bale  of  dried  meat,  consisting  of  the 
fleshy  parts  of  the  deer,  cut  into  large  slices  and  dried  in 
the  sun,  with  a  bladder  or  two  containing  fat,  or  a  bag  of 
pemican. 

When  the  residents  of  a  fort  find  these  supplies,  and 
the  produce  of  their  fislieries,  and  of  their  cultivated  plots 
of  ground  (where  the  ground,  from  the  nature  of  the  soil 
and  climate,  is  capable  of  cultivation),  insufficient  to 
supply  their  wants,  they  engage  two  or  more  young 
Indians,  without  families,  as  "  fort  hunters."  These  are 
considered  as  regular  servants ;  and  their  duty  is  confined 
to  the  killing  of  large  animals  for  the  use  of  the  establish, 
ments.  They  are  allowed  to  keep  a  portion  of  the  meat, 
sufficient  for  their  own  consumption :  the  remainder  is 
transported  to  the  forts,  with  sledges  and  dogs,  by  tlie 
servants  of  the  Company. 

To  become  a  fort  hunter  is  an  object  of  ambition  to 
the  northern  Indian,  as  it  is  an  acknowledgment  of  his 
skill  and  fidelity,  and  insures  to  him  the  gayest  clothing. 
Every  prudent  manager  of  a  post  endeavours  to  procure 
more  provisions  than  the  actual  wants  of  his  cliaxge 
require.  He  is  thus  enabled,  from  his  supplies,  to  afford 
the  natives  timely  relief,  and  to  conciliate  their  good- 
will, and  point  out  to  them  the  expediency  of  forethought 
and  economy.    These  remarks  do  not  apply  tc  the  com- 


i 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


e? 


I 


)y  starvation, 
,  the  helpless 

he  Indians  to 
[1  districts,  is 
limited  to  tlic 
half  dried  in 
K)ing  removed 
al  addition  of 
ner,  when  the 
eat  facility  of 
nilies  usually 
sisting  of  the 
3  and  dried  in 
at,  or  a  bag  of 

I  supplies,  and 

ultivated  plots 

arc  of  the  soil 

nsufficient  to 

more  young 
These  are 
ity  is  confined 

the  establish. 
1  of  the  meat, 

remainder  is 

dogs,  by  the 


ambition  to 
igment  of  his 
yest  clothing, 
ars  to  procure 
his  charge 
jlies,  to  afford 
3  their  good- 
f  forethought 
y  tc  the  com- 


»» 


paratively  mild  climate  of  tlie  Saskatchewan,  where  the 
plains  tccrn  with  buffaloes ;  nor  to  the  still*iJC^e  soutlierly 
districts,  bordering  on  Canada,  where  thdi^J^ativcs  and 
the  people  are  in  a  great  measure  fed  on'^irovisions 
^imported  by  the  Company.  'y^ 


y<- 


^, 


\  i 


^^ 


CHAPTER  VIII. 


The  Knisteneaux  Indians. 


r. 


V 


These  people,  from  whom  arc   sprung  man);  tribe*, ' 
ider  different  names,  are  spread  over  a  vast  extipjit  oi*  ' . 
^untry.  Their  language  is  the  same  as  that  of  the  jKJoplc'  f:: . 
rho  inhabit  the  coast  of  British  America  on  the  Atlantic,  \^ 
d  continues  along  the  coast  of  Labrador,  and  the  gulf    C">  . 
d  banks  of  the  St.  Lawrence  to  Montreal.     The  line       .  "> 
on  follows  the  Utawns  River  to  its  source,  and  con-         J^ 
nues  thence   nearly  west  along   the   high   lands  that 
ivide  the  waters  that  flow  into  Lake  Superior  on  the 
c  hand,  and   Hudson's   Bay  on   the   other.     It  then 
oceeds  till  it  strikes  the  middle  part  of  Lake  Winnipeg, 
d  right  through  it,  to  the  discharge  of  the  Saskatchewan 
to  it.    From  thence  it  accompanies  the  latter  to  Fort 
orge,  when  tiie  line,  striking  by  the  head  of  the  Beaver 
sitiver  to  the  Elk  River,  runs  along  its  banks  to  its  dis- 
^Iharge  into  the  Lake  of  the  Hills,  from  which  it  may  be 
'iiarried   back,  east,  to   Isle   a  la  Crosse,  and   so  on  to 
jj/hurchill  by  the  Missinippi. 

-  The  whole  of  the  tract  between  this  line  and  Hudson's 
Bay  and  Straits  (except  that  of  the  Esquimaux  in  the 
latter)  may  be  said  to  be  exclusively  the  country  of  the 
nistcneaux.  Some  of  them,  indeed,  have  penetrated 
rther,  west  and  south,  to  the  Red  River,  and  the  south 
ranch  of  the   Saskatchewan.    The  similarity  between 


v.'k 


66 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


:  I 


i  ! 


;  ii ! 


li 


1 1 

-J 


nil': 


their  language  and  that  of  the  Algonquins  is  clear  proof 
that  they  arc  of  the  same  stock. 

They  arc  of  moderate  stature,  well  proportioned,  and 
very  active.  Examples  of  deformity  arc  seldom  to  bi 
seen  among  them.  Tlicir  complexion  is  copper  colour, 
and  their  hair  hlack,  which  is  common  to  all  the  natives 
of  America :  it  is  generally  cut  in  various  forms,  accord- 
ing to  the  fancy  of  the  several  tribes ;  but  by  some  it  is 
left  in  the  long,  lank  flow  of  nature.  They  mostly  ex. 
tract  their  beard ;  and  both  sexes  manifest  a  disposition 
to  pluck  the  hair  from  every  part  of  the  body  and  limbs, 
Their  eyes  are  black  and  piercing :  their  countenances 
open  and  agreeable ;  and  it  is  a  principal  object  of  tkir 
ambition  to  give  every  possible  decoration  to  their  per- 
sons. For  this  purpose  vermilion  is  a  material  article, 
which  they  contrast  with  their  native  white,  blue,  anc 
brown  earths,  with  a  frequent  addition  of  charcoal. 

«'  Of  all  the  natives,"  says  M'Kenzie,  »*  which  I  have 
seen  on  this  continent,  the  Knistcneaux  women  arc  the 
most  comely ;  their  figure  is  well  proportioned,  and  the 
regularity  of  their  features  would  be  acknowledged  by 
the  most  civilized  Europeans.  Their  complexion,  too,  is 
less  dark  than  that  of  the  less  cleanly  natives." 

The  dress  of  the  males  is  simple  and  commodious.  Ii 
consists  of  gloves,  shoes,  and  tight  leggins,  reaching 
nearly  to  the  hip— a  strip  of  cloth  or  leather,  called  as- 
flian,  about  a  foot  wide,  and  five  feet  long,  whose  ends  are 
drawn  inwards,  and  hang  behind  and  before,  over  a  belt 
which  fastens  it  round  the  waist, — a  close  vest  or  shirt 
reaching  down  to  the  former  garment,  and  cinctured  witt 
a  broad  strip  of  parchment,  fastened  with  thongs  behind; 
and  a  cap  for  the  head,  consisting  of  a  piece  of  fur,  oi 
small  skin,  with  the  hairy  tail  suspended  as  an  ornament; 
over  the  whole  a  kind  of  robe  is  occasionally  thrown, 
The  materials  vary  according  to  the  season ;  and  consist 
of  dressed  moose  skin, — beaver,  prepared  with  the  fur  oa 
or  European  woollens.    The  leather  is  neatly  painted 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


^ 


8  is  clear  proo: 

)portloncd,  and 
seldom  to  b 
copper  colour, 
all  the  natives 
forma,  accord- 
L  by  some  it  is 
'hey  mostly  ex- 
ist a  disposition 
lody  and  limbs, 
ir  countenances 
object  of  their 
>n  to  their  per- 
naterial  article. 
white,  blue,  anc 
charcoal. 
"  which  I  have 
women  are  the 
rtioncd,  and  the 
cnowledged  by 
nplexion,  too,  is 
ives." 

ommodious.    It 
gins,  reaching 
ither,  called  as 
whose  ends  art 
ore,  over  a  belt, 
se  vest  or  shirt 
cinctured  witk 
thongs  behind: 
piece  of  fur,  or 
.s  an  ornament 
ionally  thrown, 
on ;  and  consist 
with  the  fur  on 
neatly  painted. 


inci 


1  fincifully  worked,  in  some  part.«»,  witli  porcupn 
ills  and  moosc-dccr  hair  ;  t!ic  shirt  and  leggins  arc  also 
Udonicd  with  fringe   and  tassels,  the  sliooa  nnd   gloves 
ire  also  decorated  witli  taste  and  skill.     Their  dress  is, 
"However,  ptit  on  accordin^r  to  lUncy  or  convenience ;  nnd 
Ihey  will  sometimes  proceed   to  liie  chase  covered  only 
rith  the  slightest  of  them.     Their  head-dresses  arc  com- 
)sed  of  the  feathers  of  the  swan,  the  eagle,  and  other 
irds.     They  also  use  the  teeth,  claws,  and  horns  of  dif. 
^rent  animals,  wherewith  to  ornament  the  head  and  neck. 
'Jieir  hair,  however    worn,  is   always   besmeared  with 
rease.     All  the  articles  of  dress  are  made  by  the  te- 
iales,  who  bestow  peculiar  pains  on  the  decoration  of 
|e  men,  whose  faces  are  also  painted  with  more  care 
m  those  of  the  women.  '  ' 

Mie  female  dress  is  composed  of  the  same  materials 
that  of  the  men  ;  but  of  a  different  arrangement  and 
ike.     Their  shoes  are  commonly  plain,  and  their  leg- 
|ns  gartered  below  the  knee.     The  vest  falls  down  to 
middle  of  tlie  leg,  and  is  fastened  round  the  shoulders 
Ith  cords,  a  flap  or  cape   turning  down   about  eight 
;hes  before  and  behind,  and  neatly  ornamented  with 
lill-work  and  fringe ;  the  bottom  is  also  fringed,  and 
icifully  painted  as  high  as  the  knee.     As  it  is  very 
se,  it  is  fastened  round  the  waist  with  a  stiff  belt,  de- 
rated with  tassels,  and  tied  behind.     The  arms  arc 
rered  to  the  wrist  with  detached  sleeves,  which  arc 
i|wed  as  far  as  the  bend  of  the  arm;  from  thence  tliey 
drawn  up  to  the  back,  and  the  corners  of  them  fall 
^wn  behind  as  far  as  the  waist.     The  cap,  when  they 
;ar  one,  consists  of  leather  or  cloth,  sowed  at  one  end, 
which  means  it  is  kept  on  the  head,  and,  hanging 
»wn  the  back,  is  fastened  to  the  waist  belt,  and  is  also 
jd  under  the  chin.    They  also  have  an  upper  robe  like 
lat  of  the  men..   Their  hair  is  divided  on  the  crown, 
id  tied  behind,  or  fastened  in  large  knots  under  the  ears. 
fhey  are  fond  of  European  articles ;  and,  like  other  sa . 


•H- 
■I 


70 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


j 


vagcs,  wear  bracelets,  rings,  and  other  baubles.  Some, 
times  they  tattoo  three  perpendicular  lines — one  from  the 
centre  of  the  chin  to  the  centre  of  the  under  lip,  and  one 
parallel  on  each  side  to  the  corner  of  the  mouth. 

Chastity  is  not  considered  a  virtue  among  them.  Plu- 
rality of  wives  is  allowed,  and  so  is  an  interchange  of 
wives ;  but  if  a  wife  commit  an  indiscretion  without  the 
consent  of  the  husband,  she  is  liable  to  severe  punishment, 
such  as  the  loss  of  her  hair,  nose,  or  ornaments.  When 
a  young  man  marries  he  resides  with  his  wife's  parents, 
who,  however,  treat  him  as  a  stranger,  till  the  birth  of  his 
first  child ;  he  then  attaches  himself  to  them  more  than 
to  his  own  parents,  and  the  wife  always  calls  him  by  the 
title  of  father  of  her  child.  When  a  man  loses  his  wife, 
it  is  considered  his  duty  to  marry  her  sister  j  or  he  may 
have  severu,!  sisters  together.  They  are,  generally,  hos- 
pitable,  generous,  and  mild,  except  when  inflamed  by  spi- 
rituous liquors ;  and  are  indulgent  and  attentive  to  their 
children.  ?       '^ 

The  occupation  of  the  men  is  war  and  hunting  only. 
The  women  make  the  nets ;  dress  the  skins ;  collect  the 
wood;  erect  the  tents;  and  perform  all  the  domestic 
work ;  and  attend  to  the  children.  Hence  their  life  is 
one  of  great  toil ;  and,  from  a  consciousness  of  this,  they 
sometimes  destroy  their  female  children,  and  procure 
abortions^  which  they  effect  by  means  of  certain  simples, 
and  without  risk  of  life  to  themselves. 

Their  funeral  rites  begin,  like  all  their  other  ceremo- 
nials, with  smoking,  and  end  with  a  feast.  The  body  is 
dressed  in  the  best  habiliments  of  the  deceased,  or  of  his 
relations ;  and  is  deposited  in  a  grave,  lined  with 
branches  ;  some  domestic  utensils  are  placed  in  it,  and  a 
canopy  erected  over  it.  During  this  ceremony  great  la- 
mentations  are  made ;  and,  if  the  deceased  be  much  re- 
spected, his  relations  cut  off  their  hair,  and  pierce  the 
fleshy  parts  of  their  thighs  and  arms  with  arrows,  knives, 
&c  :  fi,nd  blacken  their  faces  with  charcoal.     In  some 


■-\ 


III 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


71 


es.  Some- 
ic  from  the 
ip,  and  one 
h. 

[lem.    Plu- 
rchange  of   | 
vithoat  the 
junishment, 
its.    When 
e's  parents, 
birth  of  his 
more  than 
him  by  the 
568  his  wife, 
or  he  may 
lerally,  hos. 
,med  by  spi- 
Live  to  their 


i 


mtingf  only, 
collect  the 
be   domestic  j 
heir  life  is  I 
jf  this,  they  j  \ 
nd  procure 
ain  simples,  \ 


ler  ceremo- 
The  body  is 
d,  or  of  his 
lined  with 
in  it,  and  a 
y  great  la- 
)e  much  re- 
I  pierce  the 
ows,  knives,  i 
I.     In  some 


n 


instances  the  women  used  to  sacrifice  themselves  to  the 
manes  of  their  husbands.  The  ."hole  of  the  property  of 
the  deceased  is  destroyed ;  and  whc.-'  the  relations  give 
up  their  garments  they  are  willing  to  ♦ake  any  rags  to 
cover  their  nakedness.  I'his  imprudent  custom  tends  to 
keep  them  in  poverty,  and  compels  them  often  to  resort 
to  tlie  bounty  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company.  At  the 
funeral  feast  eulogies  are  pronounced  on  the  deceased  ; 
and  on  his  tomb  are  carved  the  symbols  of  his  tribe, 
which  are  taken  from  the  different  animals  of  the  coun- 
try ;  and  also,  if  he  had  in  any  way  distinguished  him- 
self, memorials  of  his  own  deeds. 

Before  they  engage  in  war  the  chief  summons  the 
warriors  to  a  council,  for  which  they  prepare  themselves 
by  long  meditations  and  fasting.  When  they  have  as- 
sembled, the  chief  formally  explains  the  subject ;  and,  if 
they  agree  to  take  up  arms,  they  smoke  with  him  the 
sacred  pipe ;  and  this  is  considered  a  sufficient  enrolment. 
Every  one  who  attends  the  meeting  brings  with  him 
something  as  an  offering  to  the  Spirit ;  and  when  the 
assembly  dissolves,  thcte  offerings  are  suspended  from 
poles  near  the  place  of  council. 

They  have,  at  stated  seasons,  such  as  the  spring  and 
autumn,  long  and  solemn  ceremonies.  On  these  occa- 
sions, dogs,  as  the  most  useful  of  their  domestic  animals, 
are  sacrificed ;  those  that  are  very  fat  and  milk-white  are 
preferred.  The  scene  of  these  religious  rites  is  an  open 
and  elevated  space  on  the  banks  of  some  lake  or  river,  so 
that  all  persons  passing  by  may  be  attracted  to  the  spot 
and  make  their  offerings.  But  if  any  one,  a  member  of 
the  tribe  or  a  stranger,  should  be  in  want  of  any  article 
displayed  as  an  offering,  he  may  take  it,  provided  he 
replaced  it  with  some  other  article,  though  of  ever  such 
inferior  value.  But  to  take  any  thing  wantonly  is  gross 
sacrilege. 

There  are  also  private  feasts,  attended  with  religious 
ceremonies,  given  by  individuals  on  many  occasions,  of 


72 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


i.J:'    '^l 


which  due  announcement  is  given.  On  this  occasion  th^ 
host's  lodge  is  completely  cleared  out,  and  decked  round 
with  fresh  boughs  in  every  part.  Even  a  new  hearth  is 
made.  The  owner  remaining  in  it  alone,  spreads  out  a 
well-dressed  moose-skin,  neatly  painted,  (of  late  they 
sometimes  use  cloth,)  on  which  he  lays  out  the  contents 
of  his  medicine  or  holy  bag— consisting  of  various  ar- 
tides ;  the  principal  of  which  is  a  sort  of  household  god 
— a  curiously  carved  image,  about  eight  inches  long.  This 
is  first  covered  with  down,  over  which  a  piece  of  beech- 
bark  is  closely  tied,  and  the  whole  enveloped  in  folds  of 
skins,  or  cloth,  red  and  blue.  This  figure  is  an  object  of 
the  most  pious  regard.  The  next  article  is  the  war-cap, 
which  is  decorated  with  the  plumes  of  scarce  birds,  and 
with  beavers'  and  eagles'  claws,  &.C.,  and  to  which  is 
suspended  a  quill  or  leather  for  every  enemy  which  the 
owner  has  slain.  Then  follow  other  articles — the  pipe  and 
tobacco ;  and  roots  and  simples  esteemed  for  their  medi- 
cinal properties.  These  articles  being  exposed,  and  the 
stem  of  the  pipe  resting  on  two  prongs,  as  it  must  not  touch 
tlie  ground,  he  calls  in  the  person  whom  he  means  most 
to  honour — and  who  sits  down  opposite  him.  Then  the 
bowl  of  the  pipe  is  filled,  and  is  fixed  to  the  stem.  A 
pair  of  wooden  pincers  is  provided,  to  place  the  fire  in 
the  pipe ;  and  a  double-pointed  pin  to  empty  it  of  the 
remnant  of  the  tobacco  not  used.  The  remainder  of  the 
guests  are  then  summoned  in  ;  and  the  most  solemn  awe 
pervades  the  whole.  The  women  are  generally  allowed 
to  be  spectators  at  a  distance.  The  assistant  lights  the 
pipe,  and  presents  it  to  the  host,  or  officiating  person,  who 
holds  it  between  both  his  hands,  and  standing.  He  then 
turns  to  the  east,  and  drav/s  a  few  whiffs,  which  he  blows 
to  that  point :  he  observes  the  same  ceremony  tov»rards 
the  other  quarters  ;  his  eyes  being  directed  upwards  all  the 
time.  He  then  holds  the  stem  about  the  middle,  between 
the  three  first  fingers  of  both  hands,  and  raising  it  on  a 
level  with  his  forehead,  he  swings  it  three  times  round, 


'ti 


I 

begir 

when 

he  re 

to  ex 

an  ac 

contii 

sits  d 

batioi 

this 

mouth 

a  shoi 

from 

muttei 

pipe  is 

ing  it  1 

J    wards, 

he  retu 

wishes 

Thes 

portanc 

wishes 

him,  or 

he  invit 

and  sm( 

of  smok 

and  can 

towards 

No  one 

person  i 

by  dech 

purifical 

within  t 

man  un 

All  cont 

licld  inv 

Wher 

mnall  pi 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


73 


m 


I 


beginning  from  the  cast,  with  the  course  of  the  sun ; 
when,  after  poising  and  pointing  it  in  various  directions, 
he  replaces  it  on  the  prongs.  He  next  makes  a  speecli 
to  explain  his  object  in  inviting  them,  and  concludes  with 
an  acknowledgment  of  past  favours,  and  a  prayer  for  a 
continuance  of  tuem  from  the  Master  of  Life.  He  then 
sits  down ;  and  the  whole  company  declare  their  appro- 
bation and  thanks  by  loud  and  prolonged  sighs.  After 
this  the  assistant  takes  up  the  pipe,  and  holds  it  to  the 
mouth  of  the  host,  who,  after  smoking  tiiree  whiffs,  utters 
a  short  prayer,  then  hands  it  round  (taking  his  course 
from  east  to  west)  to  eacti  guest,  who  smokes,  and 
mutters  something  to  him  on  the  occasion.  Thus  the 
pipe  is  generally  smoked  out ;  when  the  host,  after  turn- 
ing it  three  or  four  times  round  his  head,  drops  it  down- 
wards, and  replaces  it  on  the  original  props.  After  this 
he  returns  the  company  thanks  for  their  attendance,  and 
wishes  them  all  happiness. 

These  smoking  rites  precede  every  matter  of  great  im- 
portance ;  and  sometimes  tliey  are  politic.  If  a  chief 
wishes  to  sound  the  disposition  of  his  people  towards 
him,  or  wishes  to  reconcile  any  differences  between  them, 
he  invites  them  to  see  his  medicine  (or  holy)  bag  opened, 
and  smoke  the  sacred  stem  with  him.  As  the  ceremony 
of  smoking  with  the  sacred  stem  dissipates  all  differences 
and  cannot  be  violated,  no  one  who  entertains  a  grudge 
towards  any  of  the  party  can  smoke  the  pipe  with  him. 
No  one  can  avoid  attending  on  these  occasions ;  but  a 
person  may  be  excused  from  assisting  at  the  ceremonies 
by  declaring  that  he  has  not  undergone  the  necessary 
purification :  for  instance,  cohabitation  witii  his  wile 
within  twenty-four  hours  before  the  ceremony,  renders  a 
man  unclean,  and  unfit  to  join  in  any  part  of  the  rite. 
All  contracts  solemnized  by  this  smoking  ceremony  are 
iield  inviolable. 

When  the  chief  proposes  a  feast,  he  sends  quills,  or 
^;lllall  pieces  of  wood,  as  tokens  of  invitation.     Every 

7 


=1 


m 


7i 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


U 


guest  brings  a  dish  and  knife,  and  takes  his  place  beside 
the  chief,  according  to  age  or  rank.  The  pipe  is  then 
lighted,  and  the  chief  makes  an  equal  division  of  the 
viands.  While  the  guests  are  eating,  the  chief  sings, 
and  plays  with  the  tambourin,  or  the  rattle.  He  who  has 
first  eaten  his  portion  is  held  in  estimation.  If  any  one 
cannot  finish  his  share,  he  offers  a  reward — such  as 
ammunition  or  tobacco,  to  some  friend  to  eat  the  re- 
mainder. But  before  they  commence  these  feasts  they 
offer  a  small  quantity  of  the  meat  and  drink,  as  a  sacri. 
fice,  by  throwing  it  into  the  fire,  or  pouring  it  on  the 
earth.  Generally  the  quantity  supplied  to  the  guests, 
must  be  eaten,  however  immense ;  but  on  some  occasions 
they  are  allowed  to  take  the  surplus  to  be  eaten  at  homei 
Care  is  always  taken  that  the  bones  be  burned,  as  it 
would  be  profanation  if  the  dogs  touched  them.        .-. ,. 

At  their  public  feasts  they  discuss  various  topics — 
repeat  the  heroic  deeds  of  their  fathers,  and  encourage 
the  rising  generation  to  follow  their  example  ;  while  the 
women  sing  and  dance  around  the  tents,  beating  time  to 
the  music  within. 

They  commence  their  divisions  of  time  by  the  night ; 
and  compute  the  length  of  their  journeys  by  the  number 
of  nights  passed  in  performing  them.  They  also  divide 
the  year  by  the  succession  of  moons. 

They  know  the  medical  virtues  of  many  herbs,  roots 
of  plants,  and  barks  of  trees.  When  a  blister  rises  on 
the  foot,  from  frost,  or  the  chafing  of  the  shoe,  &c.,  they 
open  it  with  their  flint  lancet,  and  apply  the  heated  blade 
of  a  knife  to  that  part ;  and  as  the  best  remedy  for 
sprains,  they  apply  the  dung  of  an  animal  just  killed. 
However,  much  of  their  remedies  and  surgical  opera- 
tions is  supposed  to  derive  effect  from  magic  and  incan- 
tations. 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


75 


CHAPTER  IX. 

The  Chipewyan  Indians. 

These  are  a  numerous  people,  who  consider  the  coun- 
try between  the  parallels  of  latitude  60  and  65  north,  and 
longitude  100  and  110  west,  as  their  home.  Theii  lan- 
guage furnishes  dialects  to  the  various  migratory  tribes 
who  inhabit  the  following  immense  tract  of  country.  It 
begins  at  Churchill,  and  runs  along  the  line  of  separation 
between  them  and  the  Knisteneaux,  up  the  Missinippi  to 
Isle  ii  la  Crosse,  passing  on  through  Buffalo  Lake,  River 
Lake,  and  Portage  &.  la  Loche :  from  thence  it  proceeds 
by  the  Elk  River  to  the  Lake  of  the  Hills,  and  goes  di- 
rectly west  to  the  Peace  River,  and  up  that  river  to  its 
source ;  from  whence  it  proceeds  to  the  waters  of  the  Co- 
lumbia, and  follows  that  river  to  latitude  52  north,  and 
longitude  122  west,  where  the  Chipewyans  have  the  Chin 
nation  for  their  neighbours.  How  far  they  follow  the 
Rocky  Mountains  to  the  east,  is  not  easy  to  determine ; 
but  they  extend  a  long  way  through  the  prairies. 

They  are  generally  a  timorous,  reserved,  and  sober 
race,  not  addicted  to  spirituous  liquors.  They  will  pa- 
tiently submit  to  severe  treatment,  if  conscious  that  they 
deserve  it;  but  will  not  submit  to  unnecessary  rigour. 
In  their  mutual  quarrels  they  are  not  sanguinary  or 
savage ;  generally  contenting  themselves  with  thumping, 
pulling  the  hair,  and  calling  abusive  names. 

Their  notions  about  the  Creation  arc  very  remarkable. 
They  believe  that,  at  first,  the  globe  was  one  vast  ocean, 
not  inliabited  by  any  living  creature  ;  but  that  the  Great 
Spirit  came  down  in  the  shape  of  a  mighty  bird,  whose 


H  h 


76 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


1 
il 

V 

i  '  4^ 

eyes  were  fire,  whopc   jglanccs  were  li[i;htning-,  and  tlie 
clapping-  of  whose  wings  was  thunder.     He  rested  on  the 
ocean,  and  immediately  the  land  rose,  and  remained  on 
the  surface  of  the  water.    This  omnipotent  bird  tlien  pro- 
duced all  the  variety  of  animals  irom  the  earth,  except 
the  Chipcwyans,  who  were  produced  from  a  dog :   and 
this  circumstance  occasions  their  aversion  to  the  flesh  of 
that  animal,  as  well  as  to  the  people  who  eat  it.     The 
Great  Spirit  having  finished  his  work,  he  made  an  arrow, 
which  was  to  be  preserved  with  great  care,  and  remain 
untouched  ;  but  the  Chipcwyans  were  so  devoid  of  under- 
standing,  as  to  carry  it  away.     This  sacrilege  so  enraged 
the  great  bird,  that  he  has  never  since  appeared.     They 
believe  that  there  was  a  great  deluge,  which  spread  over 
the  whole  earth,  except  the  highest  mountains ;  on  the 
top  of  which  their  ancestors  preserved  themselves.     They 
have  also  a  tradition  among  them,  that  they  originally 
came  from  a  remote  country,  inhabited  by  wicked  people; 
and  had  traversed  a  great  lake,  which  was  narrow  and 
full  of  islands ;  also,  that  in  ancient  times  their  ancestors 
lived  till  their  feet  were  worn  out  with  walking-,  and  their 
throats  with  eating. 

The  reader  cannot  fail  to  notice  the  curious  coinci- 
dence between  this  notion  of  the  creation  and  the  Mosaic 
account :  "  the  earth  was  without  form,  and  void,  and 
the  Spirit  of  God  moved  on  the  surface  of  the  waters." 
Here  I  may  remark,  that  the  word  which  in  our  transla- 
tion  is  rendered  moved,  the  commentators  say  means,  in 
the  original  Hebrew,  brooded,  or  hatched;  and  Milton, 
who  in  his  scriptural  allusions  and  quotations  follows  the 
original,  takes  the  word  in  this  sense. — Paradise  Lost, 
b.  vii.  V.  235.    Speaking  of  Creation,  he  says : — 

On  the  watery  calm 


His  brooding  wings  the  Spirit  of  God  outspread, 
And  vital  virtue  infused,  and  vital  warmth. 
Throughout  the  fluid  mass. 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


77 


Their  ideas  about  the  arrow  would  seem  to  indicate  that 
they  have  a  confused  and  corrupted  notion  of  the  tree  of 
knowledge  and  the  forbidden  fruit — the  arrow  being  more 
adapted  to  their  condition  than  an  apple.  Their  tradition 
about  coming  originally  from  a  remote  country,  inhabited 
by  wicked  people,  would  remind  one  of  the  dispersion  of 
mankind  after  the  erection  of  the  tower  of  Babel :  and 
their  ancestors  having  lived  so  long,  until  their  feet  were 
worn  out  with  walking,  and  their  throats  with  eating,  is 
a  graphic  mode  of  describing  the  longevity  and  sensuality 
of  the  antediluvians. 

They  believe  in  the  immortality  of  the  soul,  and  in  a 
state  of  future  rewards  and  punishments.  They  believe 
that  immediately  after  death  they  pass  into  another  world, 
where  they  arrive  at  a  large  river,  on  which  they  embark 
in  a  stone  canoe ;  and  that  a  gentle  current  bears  them 
on  to  an  extensive  lake,  in  the  centre  of  which  is  a  most 
beautiful  island ;  and  that  within  sight  of  this  delightful 
abode  they  receive  that  judgment  for  their  conduct  during 
life,  which  terminates  their  final  state  and  unalterable 
allotment.  If  their  good  actions  arc  declared  to  predo- 
minate, they  are  landed  on  the  island,  where  there  is  to 
be  no  end  to  their  happiness ;  which,  however,  according 
to  their  notions  consists  chiefly  in  sensual  pleasures.  But 
if  their  bad  actions  predominate,  the  stone  canoe  sinks  at 
once,  and  leaves  them  up  to  their  chins  in  the  water,  to 
behold  and  regret  the  reward  enjoyed  bj'  the  good ;  and 
eternally  struggling,  but  with  unavailing  endeavours,  to 
reach  the  blissful  island. 

Their  stature  is  of  a  moderate  standard.  Their  com- 
plexion is  swarthy :  their  features  are  coarse,  and  their 
hair  lank ;  and  their  eyes  are  not  so  generally  piercing, 
nor  their  countenances  so  animated  as  those  of  other 
Indians.  * 

The  women  have  a  more  agreeable  aspect  than  the 
men;  but  their  gait  is  awkward,  which  proceeds  from 
their  being  accustomed,  nine   months   in  the  year,  to 

7* 


i 


78 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


travel  with  their  large  snow-shoes,  and  drag"  sledges,  of  a 
weight  from  two  to  four  hundred  pounds.  They  arc 
very  submissive  to  tlieir  husbands,  who  sometimes,  how- 
ever, in  fits  of  jealousy  cut  off  their  hair,  of  which  they 
are  very  proud,  wearing  it  in  fantastic  tresses,  or  in  plaits, 
to  a  great  length ;  and  treat  them  with  fatal  severity  be- 
sides.  Sometimes  tlieir  natural  inclinations  are  coerced 
by  their  fathers,  as  is  the  case  in  more  civilized  life ;  and 
tliey  arc  transferred  for  a  consideration,  to  live  as  com  pa- 
nions  with  more  wealthy  husbands  or  protectors.  The 
men  in  general  extract  their  beard ;  and  cut  the  hair  in 
various  forms,  according  to  fancy,  or  leave  it  in  the  long 
natural  flow.  Both  sexes  have  blue  or  black  bars,  or 
from  one  to  four  straight  lines,  on  their  cheeks  or  fore, 
head,  to  distinguish  the  tribe  to  which  they  belong. 
These  marks  are  either  tattooed,  or  made  by  drawing  a 
thread,  dipped  in  the  necessary  colours,  across  the  skin. 

Plurality  of  wives  is  allowed ;  and  the  women  are  be- 
trothed by  their  parents  at  an  early  age,  according  as  in- 
terest or  partiality  leads  them  :  and  if  a  separation  takes 
place,  it  must  be  with  the  consent  of  the  husband.  There 
are  particular  skins  of  animals,  as  the  bear  and  wolf, 
which  the  women  never  touch,  as  they  are  unclean 
animals ;  and  these  animals  the  men  arc  seldom  known 
to  kill.  :      U- 

There  are  no  people  more  attentive  to  the  comforts  of 
dress.  The  dress  of  the  men,  in  winter,  is  composed  of 
deerskin,  dressed  as  fine  as  chamois  leather,  in  the  hair. 
Their  shoes  and  leggins  are  sewed  together ;  the  latter 
reaching  upwards  to  the  waist,  and  kept  firmly  on  by  a 
belt ;  under  which  a  piece  of  leather  is  drawn,  the  ends 
of  which  fall  down  before  and  behind,  as  a  covering.  In 
the  shoes,  they  put  the  hair  of  the  moose  or  rein-deer, 
with  additional  pieces  of  leather,  as  socks.  The  shirt  or 
coat,  which  is  girded  round  the  waist,  reaches  to  the 
middle  of  the  thigh  ;  and  the  mittens  or  gloves  are  sewed 
to  the  sleeves,  or  suspended  from  the  shoulders  by  strings. 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


79 


A  ruff  or  tippet  surrounds  the  neck ;  and  the  skin  of  tlic 
head  of  the  deer  forms  a  curious  kind  of  cap.  Then  there 
is  a  top  garment  made  of  several  deer  or  fawn  skins 
sewed  together.  This  dress  is  worn  single  or  double, 
according  to  circumstances ;  but  always  in  winter  with 
hair  both  inside  and  outside.  Thus  arrayed,  a  Chipe- 
wyan  will  lay  himself  down  on  the  ice  in  the  middle  of  a 
lake,  and  repose  in  comfort ;  though  in  the  morning  he 
will  sometimes  find  it  difficult  to  disencumber  himself 
from  the  snow  drifted  on  him  during  the  night.  If,  in 
his  passage  over  the  lake,  he  should  be  in  want  of  provi- 
sion, he  cuts  a  hole  in  the  ice,  when  he  seldom  fails  in 
taking  out  a  trout  or  a  pike.  The  eyes  he  instantly 
takes  out,  and  eats  as  a  great  delicacy :  and  if  he  have 
not  an  opportunity  of  kindling  a  fire,  he  will  oat  the  fish 
raw.         ;  ■  :.  ' 

The  dress  of  the  women  is  different.  Their  leggins 
are  tied  below  the  knee  ;  and  their  body  dress  or  shift  is 
wide,  and  hanging  down  to  the  ankle ;  and  is  tucked  up 
at  pleasure,  by  means  of  a  belt  which  is  fastened  round 
the  waist.  Those  who  have  children,  have  these  gar- 
ments made  very  full  about  the  breast  and  shoulders ;  as, 
when  they  are  travelling,  they  carry  their  infants  on  their 
backs,  next  the  skin ;  in  which  situation  they  arc  very 
comfortable.  They  are  also  very  curious  about  their 
baby.clothes,  decorating  them  with  porcupines'  quills, 
and  beads.  Though  they  are  in  such  a  state  of  submis- 
sion, yet  they  possess  considerable  influence  with  the 
men ;  and  are  generally  consulted  about  the  traffic  with 
Europeans,  and  other  important  matters. 

From  the  ease  with  which  they  can  supply  their  wants, 
in  taking  deer  and  fish,  they  are  not  remarkable  for  their 
activity  as  hunters :  hence  they  participate  in  those  labo- 
rious and  domestic  occupations  that,  among  the  Knistc- 
neaux,  and  other  neighbouring  nations,  are  confined  to 
the  women.  Though  they  make  war  on  the  Esquimaux, 
(who  cannot  resist  their  superior  numbers,)  and  put  them 


y] 


so 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


to  death — as  it  is  a  principle  of  theirs  not  to  make  pri. 
soners — ^yet  they  submit  to  the  Knisteneaux,  who  are  not 
so  numerous  as  themselves.  They  are  not  so  reserved  in 
their  communications  among  themselves,  or  with  stran. 
gers ;  nor  are  they  suddenly  roused  from  torpor  to  such 
energy  and  passion  as  the  Knisteneaux.  They  are  more 
uniform,  calculating,  and  persevering  than  these  people. 

They  catch  the  beaver  in  nets,  as  he  endeavours  to 
escape  from  his  lodge,  when  it  is  broken  open.  Thc&e 
nets  are  curiously  set  for  the  purpose ;  and  a  man  is  em. 
ployed  to  watch  the  moment  when  the  animal  enters  the 
snare,  else  he  would  soon  cut  his  way  through  it :  he  is 
then  thrown  on  the  ice,  where  ho  remains,  as  if  lifeless. 

Their  snow-shoes  arc  of  superior  workmanship.  The 
inner  part  of  their  frame  is  straight ;  the  outer  one  is 
curved,  and  is  pointed  at  both  ends,  the  front  end  being 
turned  up.  They  arc  also  very  neatly  laced  with  deer, 
skin  thongs.  Their  sledges  are  also  formed  of  thin  slips 
of  boards  turned  up  in  front ;  and  are  highly  polished, 
with  crooked  knives,  in  order  to  make  them  slide  along 
with  greater  facility.  Close-grained  wood  is,  on  that  ac 
count,  the  best :  but  theirs  are  made  of  the  red,  or  swamp, 
spruce  fir  tree. 

Though  they  have  no  regular  government,  as  every 
man  is  lord  of  his  own  family,  yet  they  have  certain 
principles  of  co-operation  for  the  public  benefit.  Their 
country,  esjiecially  along  the  north,  is  very  barren,  yield- 
ing but  little  wood  or  herbage.  Its  chief  vegetable  sub- 
stance is  the  moss,  on  which  the  deer  feed ;  and  a  kind 
of  rock  moss,  which,  in  times  of  scarcity,  when  boiled  in 
water,  forms  a  glutinous  substance,  and  affords  subsis- 
tence to  the  natives.  But  though  the  lakes  abound  with 
fish,  and  the  hills  with  deer ;  and  though  they  are  con- 
sidercd  among  the  most  provident  of  all  the  Indian  people 
of  tlie  northern  continent,  they  suffer  severely  at  certain 
seasons,  especially  in  winter,  when  they  are  under  the 
necessity  of  retiring  to  their  scanty,  stunted,  woods. 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


at 


make  pri. 
tio  are  not 
eserved  in 
ath  stran- 
>r  to  such 
'  are  more 
10  people, 
cavours  to 
n.    These 
lan  is  em. 
enters  the 
h  it :  he  is 
if  lifeless, 
ship.    The 
iter  one  is 
end  being 
with  deer- 
f  thin  slips 
y  polished, 
lide  along 
)n  that  ac- 
or  swamp, 


To  the  westward  of  them,  the  musk  ox  may  be  found  ; 
but  t!icy  do  not  depend  on  it  as  an  articU;  of  sustenance. 
Tiicrc  arc  also  larirc  hares,  wliite  wolves  peculiar  to  their 
country,  and  several  kinds  of  foxes.  On  the  surface  of 
tlie  earth  there  are  found  beautiful  pieces  of  variegated 
marble,  which  is  easily  worked,  bears  a  Hue  polish,  and 
hardens  with  time.  It  endures  heat,  and  is  manufactured 
into  pipes  or  calumets,  as  they  are  fond  of  smoking  to- 
bacco— a  luxury  comuumicated  to  them  by  Europeans. 

They  Jiavc  no  knovvled'rc  of  simples,  or  the  medicinal 
virtues  of  plants ;  as  their  country  is  too  barren  to  pro- 
duce any  :  but  they  g-enerally  resort  to  ciuirms  to  euro 
their  diseases;  of  which  rheumatism,  the  flux,  and  lues 
venerea,  arc  the  principal.  They  are  very  superstitious ; 
and  have  their  priests  and  conjurors ;  but  they  are  un- 
willing to  make  many  communications  on  the  subject  of 
their  religion.  They  show  their  respect  for  the  memory 
of  their  departed  friends  by  a  long  period  of  mourning ; 
by  cutting  off  their  own  hair  ;  and  never  making  use  of 
the  property  of  the  deceased  :  they  even  sacrifice  their 
own  on  the  occasion. 


^\ 


CHAPTER  X. 

Mouth  of  the  Columbia — Description  of  the  native  tribes — 
Their  appearance — Habits. 

The  first  object  that  meets  the  eye  of  a  voyager  as  he 
approaches  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  from  the  Pacific, 
is  a  high  blutf  promontory  with  precipitous  sides,  covered 
with  pine  trees,  and  sloping  to  the  mainland,  with  which 
it  is  connected  by  a  low  and  narrow  neck.  This  is  called 
Cape  Disappointment,  and  stands  on  the  north  of  the 
river.  The  entrance  on  the  south  side  of  the  river  is  tcr- 
minated  by  a  low,  sandy  spit  of  land,  stretching  into  tiie 
ocean,  and  called  Point  Adams ;  but,  properly  speaking, 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


for  tlio  distance  of  thirty  or  forty  miles  from  its  entrance 
into  the  sea,  it  is  an  estuary,  indented  by  deep  bays,  so 
Rs  to  vary  from  three  to  seven  miles  in  breadth.  The 
distanci.  between  the  extreme  outer  ends  of  Cape  Oisap. 
])ointment  and  Point  Adams  is  about  four  miles  across. 
This  distance  is  rendered  very  dangerous  and  intricate 
by  shoals,  forming  a  sort  of  flat  bar,  on  which  the  winds 
and  irregular  currents  produce  foaming  and  tumultuous 
breakers,  presenting  one  line  of  heavy  broken  water  from 
shore  to  shore,  which,  in  rough  weather,  runs  out  for 
three  miles  into  the  ocean.  But  the  mouth  of  the  river 
proper  becomes  narrower,  in  consequence  of  the  contract- 
ing  shores  of  the  estuary.  The  best  leading  mark  for 
entrance  is  to  bring  a  projecting  point,  which  looks  at  a 
distance  like  an  island,  near  the  higher  and  northern 
shore,  to  bear  by  compass  about  east  by  north,  and  then 
to  steer  for  it.  But  it  is  dangerous  to  make  any  attempt 
when  the  breakers  are  high.  Immediately  within  Cape 
Disappointment  there  is  a  wide  open  bay  which  yields 
good  anchorage,  and  is  called  Baker's  Bay,  terminating 
at  Chinook  Point. 

About  fourteen  miles  from  Cape  Disappointment,  in 
a  southeasterly  direction,  stands  Fort  George,  on  the 
southern  shore,  and  on  an  elevation  facing  the  north, 
terminating  with  the  wide  estuary — its  sand-bars,  and 
breakers.  It  was  formerly  called  Astoria,  having  been 
founded  by  Mr.  Astor,  of  whose  proceedings  I  shall 
speak  more  hereafter ;  but  it  is  now  only  a  small  outer 
dep6t,  belonging  to  the  Company's  head-quarters  at  Fort 
Vancouver,  and  kept  up  for  the  convenience  of  the  trade 
with  the  Indians  towards  the  mouth  of  the  river;  and  for 
the  salmon  fishery.  It  is  now  sadly  stripped  of  much  of 
its  former  importance ;  the  immediate  neighbourhood, 
with  the  exception  of  a  small  garden  and  farm  reserved 
for  the  use  of  the  small  garrison  stationed  there,  being 
overrun  w^ith  weeds  and  brushwood.  There  however 
still  exists  one  memorial  of  its  former  promised  impor- 


'liillii 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


83 


tancc — for  real  importance  it  never  liad, — a  liirjje  tree, 
spoken  of  by  some  writers,  lyin^r,  as  a  symbol  of  the 
decline  of  American  power,  flat  and  withered  on  the 
ground. 

The  natives,  who  dwell  about  the  lower  parts  of  tho 
Columbia,  may  be  divided  into  four  tribes — the  Clotsops, 
who  reside  around  Point  Adams,  on  the  south  side,  and 
arc  reputed  by  some  the  most  honest — tho  Chinooks ; 
Waakiacums ;  and  the  Cathlamets ;  who  live  on  the  north 
side  of  the  river,  and  around  Baker's  Bay  and  other  in- 
lets.  From  the  great  resemblance  between  them  in 
person,  language,  laws,  and  manners,  they  all  aj)pear  to 
have  emanated  from  one  common  stock.  Though  they 
occasionally  can  procure  the  flesh  of  elks,  deer,  and  tiie 
water-fowls  of  the  ponds  and  rivers,  their  chief  subsis- 
tence is  fish,  chiefly  salmon,  which  abounds  in  the  river, 
and  inlets ;  and  roots,  and  berries,  which  the  women  go 
a  gipsying  in  groups  at  the  proper  season  to  collect  in 
the  upper  part  of  the  country.  This  season  is  a  time  of 
hilarity ;  and  the  women  bepaint  their  faces  and  persons 
witli  a  sort  of  vermilion  paint,  partly  to  protect  them 
from  the  sun,  and  partly  to  present  a  gay  and  fantastic 
appearance.  These  roots  and  berries  they  make  into 
cakes,  which  they  dry  in  the  sun.  These  cakes,  and 
preserved  fish,  with  an  accompaniment  of  venison,  form 
their  winter  store,  of  which  they  generally  have  no  lack. 

These  tribes  were  formerly  very  numerous  and  power- 
ful. But  they  were  greatly  thinned  by  the  scourge  that 
spread  its  havoc  far  and  wide  among  the  northern  and 
eastern  Indians  for  many  years — the  smallpox.  After 
having  enjoyed  a  considerable  respite  from  this  visitation, 
and  recruited  their  force  and  numbers  to  some  extent, 
they  were  again,  in  1829,  and  some  subsequent  years, 
attacked  by  another  malady,  equally  fatal — fever,  at- 
tended  with  ague.  The  strong  remedies  which  they 
adopted  for  the  cure  of  this,  in  opposition  to  all  remon- 
strance, were  nearly  as  destructive  as  the  malady  itself. 


,■' 


il 


'i# 
M 


84 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


■ii 


They  dug  a  hole  in  the  ground,  five  feet  square,  two  feet 
deep  below  the  surface,  and  raised  two  feet  and  a  half 
above  it.  On  the  inside  it  was  tightly  boarded,  and  made 
a  sort  of  compact  oven,  with  a  small  aperture  barely  suf. 
ficient  to  admit  the  insinuation  of  the  body.  A  number 
of  stones  red-hot  were  thrown  in,  and  the  patient  (some, 
times  two  or  three  at  a  time)  immediately  after  crawled 
in ;  and  from  a  bowl  poured  on  the  burning  stones  a 
quantity  of  water  supplied  from  the  outside,  sufficient  to 
produce  a  high  degree  of  steam.  Having  remained  there 
until  he  was  nearly  parboiled,  he  crept  out  again ;  and, 
as  it  was  imagined  that  a  violent  counter-remedy  would 
produce  a  wholesome  reaction,  he  plunged  at  once  into 
the  cold  stream,  on  the  bank  of  which  this  hot  vapour- 
bath  was  constructed.  The  remedy  generally  did  its  in- 
tended work ;  and  something  more  ;  it  cured  the  disease, 
but  killed  the  patient. 

As  the  first  visitation  of  the  small-pox  affected  them 
peculiarly,  it  may  not  be  out  of  place  here  to  say  a  word 
about  it. 

This  terrible  scourge,  which  not  only  thinned  this  po- 
pulation, but  had  nearly  dispeopled  the  whole  of  the 
northern  continent  of  the  native  inhabitants,  it  is  now 
generally  agreed,  was  first  introduced  by  the  Americans 
of  the  United  States ;  and  at  first  broke  out  among  the 
tribes  residing  between  the  sources  of  the  Missouri  and 
the  Mississippi.  Thence  it  spread  its  devastation  north- 
ward as  far  as  Athabasca,  and  the  three  horns  of  the 
great  Slave  Lake  ;  and  westward  across  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains through  the  whole  region  of  the  Oregon  territories, 
spreading  to  a  vast  distance  along  the  shores  of  the  north 
Pacific.  They  at  first  tried  their  mcdicine-men,  or  con- 
jurors; then,  when  their  medicines  und  charms  were 
found  unavailing,  they  adopted  various  expedients,  which 
were  as  fatal  as  the  disease  itself;  such  as  bleedin^f — blis- 
tering — stearr  and  cold  baths  in  quick  succession.  Then, 
when  they  failed  in  every  attempt  at  cure,  they  became 


liiiiil 


,1  1. 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


8 


o 


J,  two  feet 
nd  a  half 
and  made 
)arely  suf- 
A.  number 
cnt  (some- 
er  crawled 
f  stones  a 
ufficient  to 
lined  there 
gain;  and, 
ledy  would 
;  once  into 
hot  vapour- 
did  its  in- 
the  disease, 

pcted  them 
say  a  word 

;d  this  po- 
lole   of  the 
it  is  now 
imericans 
imong  the 
ssouri  and 
tion  north- 
•ns  of  the 
sky  Moun- 
Iterritorie?, 
the  north 
m,  or  con- 
Irms  were 
its,  which 
lin^ — hlis- 
^n."  Then, 
became 


(lospcratc,  and  impressed  with  the  belief  that  it  was  a  vi- 
sitation  from  the  Great  Spirit,  who  surrendered  them  up 
to  the  Evil  One,  as  a  punishment  for  their  wicked  courses. 
Tlie  wretched  sufferers  were  deserted,  and  left  to  rot  and 
perish,  unaided  and  unpitied.  The  more  hardened  and 
courageous  of  those  who  escaped  the  attack  fled  to  the 
desert-plains,  or  the  mountains,  or  the  islands  of  the 
lakes.  Others,  more  desponding,  committed  suicide,  to 
save  themselves  from  the  horrors  which  they  saw  the  suf- 
ferers endure.  The  bodies  of  hundreds  of  men,  women, 
and  children  used  to  be  seen,  afterwards,  suspended  from 
the  trees,  close  by  depopulated  villages,  whilst  the  ground 
was  strewed  with  putrid  and  mouldering  remains.  Num- 
bers of  tribes  were  totally  swept  away ;  or  reduced  to  a 
Ccw  scattered  and  powerless  individuals.  The  remnants 
of  many  others  united  ;  and  formed  a  new  and  heteroge- 
neous union. 

Whenever  a  person  is  attacked  with  sickness,  the  medi- 
einc-man  is  sent  for ;  he  orders  the  patient  to  be  placed 
on  his  back,  and  then  commences  to  cliaunt  a  dismal  air. 
To  this  the  patient's  friends,  who  surround  him,  at  inter- 
vals reply  in  chorus  ;  and  beat  time  with  a  lout;  and  short 
stick,  which  each  carries  in  his  liands^  striking  one  over 
the  other.  Generally  a  person  is  stationed  on  the  roof 
during  this  proceeding,  and,  with  a  loud  voice,  joins  the 
chorus  inside ;  wliile  he  keeps  time  to  the  air  by  beating 
his  drum-sticks  against  the  roof.  Tlie  doctor  then  kneels, 
and  presses  his  fists  with  all  his  force  on  the  patient's 
stomach ;  and,  according  as  the  sufferer,  under  the  pain 
of  this  operation,  cries  out,  the  doctor  and  the  bystanders 
raise  the  chaunt  louder  to  drown  his  voice,  and  banish 
the  disease  within  him  which  is  struggling  to  de})art. 
The  doctor  having,  during  the  patient's  agony,  slyly  in- 
serted a  small  white  stone  into  his  mouth,  he  seizes  his 
iiands  which  he  joins  together,  and  keeps  blowing  on 
them.  Thus  he  continues  pressing  and  blowing  until  the 
stone  is  forced  out  by  the  sick  man's  convulsive  eflbrts. 

8 


:1 


86 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


This  he  snatches  up,  and  triumphantly  produces  to  tlic 
bystanders  as  the  source  of  tlie  disease,  which  he  assures 
them  is  now  destroyed.  The  stone  is  sometimes  enclosed 
in  a  piece  of  cedar  bark,  and  thrown  into  the  fire.  The 
severe  hard-pressing  and  pummelling  which  the  patient 
is  obliged  to  undergo  necessarily  produces  a  considerable 
change  in  a  short  time ;  and  though  death  not  unfre- 
quently  follows,  yet  the  general  potency  of  such  a  mode 
of  treatment  is  a  matter  of  general  belief. 

But  the  white  doctor  has  of  late  made  great  inroads  on 
the  province  of  the  conjuror,  or  medicine-man  ;  nmch  of 
whose  occupation  is  now  transferred  to  the  dispensary  or 
the  hospital  of  Fort  Vancouver,  where  a  single  dose  of 
medicine,  or  a  little  phlebotomy,  has  speedily  exorcised 
the  "  foul  fiend"  of  the  disease.  Indeed,  many  of  the 
customs  of  these  people  arc  fast  fading  away  in  their  in- 
creasing  intercourse  with  civilized  men. 

On  the  death  of  one  of  these  people,  the  body  was 
formerly  wrapped  in  skins  or  mats,  and  disposed  in  a 
small  canoe  (now  they  sell  the  skins  and  use  blankets) ; 
the  deceased's  arms,  and  other  articles  of  general  use, 
being  laid  beside  him.  The  canoe  is  then  placed  on  a 
platform  by  the  river.side,  or  on  rocks  out  of  the  reach  of 
the  tide  ;  and  other  mats  tied  over  it.  Sometimes  these 
sepulchral  canoes  are  suspended  from  boughs  of  trees, 
six  or  eight  feet  from  the  ground.  The  canoe  in  which 
the  body  is  placed  is  perforated  at  the  bottom,  for  the 
twofold  purpose,  of  letting  out  the  water  that  the  rains 
may  have  deposited  in  it,  and  of  preventing  it  from  ever 
being  used  again  by  the  living.  When  his  friends  can 
afford  the  expense,  a  larger  canoe,  reversed,  is  placed 
over  the  lower,  to  protect  it  from  the  rain  ;  and  both  are 
firmly  tied  together.  This  is  his  grave.  His  wives,  re- 
lations, and  slaves  go  into  mourning  by  cutting  their 
hair ;  and  for  some  time  after  his  death  repair  twice  a 
day,  at  sunrise,  and  sunset,  to  a  neighbouring  wood,  to 
chaunt  his  funeral  dirge.    Formerly,  on  the  death  of  a 


h'l 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


87 


chief,  or  other  person  of  wealth  and  importance,  one  or 
more  of  his  slaves  (much  of  an  Indian's  importance  de- 
pending on  the  number  of  his  slaves)  was  put  to  death 
for  his  use  in  the  next  world.  But  this  barbarous  super- 
stition has  been  abolished  through  the  interposition  of 
the  Company.  The  present  governor,  Dr.  M'Laughlin, 
has  for  this  purpose,  as  well  as  for  many  others  in  which 
humanity,  and  the  civilization  of  the  natives,  are  con- 
cerned, made  great  exertions. 

The  salmon  season,  of  those  tribes  towards  the  mouth 
of  the  Columbia,  commences  in   June  :    and   its   open- 
ing is  an  epoch  looked  forward  to  with  much  anxiety, 
and  is   attended   with   great   formality.      They   have  a 
public  festival,   nnd  offer  sacrifices.      The  first  salmon 
caught  is  a  consecrated  thing;   and   is   offered   to  the 
munificent  Spirit  who  is  the  giver  of  plenty.     They  have 
a  superstitious  scruplo  about  the  mode  of  cutting  salmon; 
especially  at  the  commencement  of  the  season,  before 
they  have  an  assurance  of  a  plentiful  supply.     To  cut  it 
crosswise,  and  to  cast  the  heart  into  the  water,  they  con- 
sider most  unlucky,  and  likely  to  bring  on  a  scarce  season. 
Hence  they  are  very  reluctant  to  supply  the  traders  at 
the  stations  with  any  until  the  season  is  advanced,  and 
then  they  can  calculate  on  their  probable  stock ;  lest  an 
unlucky  cross  cut  by  the  white  men  may  mar  all  their 
prospects.     Their  mode  is  to  cut  it  along  the  back ;  they 
take  out  the  back  bone,  and  most  studiously  avoid  throw- 
ing the  heart  into  the  water.     The  heart  they  broil  and 
eat ;  but  will  not  eat  it  afler  sunset.     So  plentiful  is  the 
fish,  that  they  supply  the  white  men  witii  it  in  abundance. 
It  is  now  made  a  lucrative  article  of  foreign  trade.     In- 
deed large  quantities  of  it  are   sent  to  the   Sandwich 
Islands,  and  otlier  places. 

Their  canoes  vary  in  size  and  form.  Some  are  thirty 
feet  long,  and  about  three  feet  deep,  cut  out  of  a  single 
tree — either  fir  or  white  cedar — and  capable  of  carrying 
twenty  persons.     They  have  round  thwart  pieces  from 


88 


OREGOX  TERRITORY. 


side  to  side,  forming  a  sort  of  binders,  about  three  inches 
in  circumference  ;  and  their  gunwales  incline  outwards, 
so  as  to  cast  off  the  surge  ;  the  bow  and  stern  hv'mir 
decorated,  sometimes,  with  grotesque  figures  of  nvn  and 
lanimals.  In  managing  their  canoes,  they  kneel  two  and 
two  along  the  bottom,  sitting  on  tlicir  heels,  and  wielding 
paddles  about  five  feet  long  ;  wliile  one  sits  on  the  stern 
and  steers,  witli  a  paddle  of  the  same  kind.  The  women 
arc  equally  expe't  in  tiio  management  of  the  canoe,  and 
generally  take  tlic  helm.  It  is  surprising  to  see  with 
what  fearless  unconcern  these  savages  venture  in  their 
slight  barks  on  the  most  tempestuous  seas.  They  seem 
to  ride  upon  the  waves  like  sca-fowl.  Should  a  surge 
throw  tJH  canoe  upon  one  side  and  endanger  its  overturn, 
those  to  windward  lean  over  the  upper  gunwale — thrust 
their  paddles  deep  into  the  wave — apparently  catch  the 
water,  and  force  it  under  the  canoe  ;  and  by  this  action, 
not  merely  regain  an  equilibrium,  but  give  the  vessel  a 
vigorous  impulse  forward. 

They  arc  rather  a  diminutive  race,  generally  varying 
in  height  from  five  feet  to  five  feet  five  inches  ;  the  women 
being  about  six  inches  shorter.  Their  legs  are  generally 
crooked;  their  ankles  thick;  and  their  feet  flat — a  de- 
formity caused,  no  doubt,  by  their  passing  so  much  of 
their  time  in  childhood,  squatting  on  the  calves  of  their 
legs  and  their  heels,  in  the  bottom  of  their  canoes — a 
favourite  position,  which  they  retain  even  when  on  shore. 
The  women  increase  this  deformity  by  wearing  tight 
bandages  round  the  low^er  part  of  their  legs.  The  faces 
of  both  sexes  arc  round — their  eyes  small  and  sharp — 
their  noses  broad,  flat  at  the  top,  and  thick  at  tlic  end — 
their  nostrils  large — their  mouths  wide — their  lips  thick 
— their  teeth  short,  irregular,  and  dirty.  In  addition  to 
these  cliaracteristics,  the  women  IkcVC  their  ears  slit — the 
cartilages  of  their  noses  perforated — and  their  heads  and 
bodies  saturated  with  salmon  oil.     Tliey  are  inferior  in 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


89 


muscular  power  and  activity  to  the  Indians  of  the  plains, 
who  iiunt  the  deer  and  buftalo,  and  ride  on  horseback. 

In  tlieir  early  intercourse  with  the  whites,  they  were 
but  scantily  clad ;  the  men  being-  entirely  naked  in 
summer  ;  but  in  winter  wearing  a  small  robe  made  of  the 
skins  of  animals,  and  reaching  to  the  middle  of  the 
tliigh  ;  and  sometimes  superadding  a  mantle  made  of 
matting,  which  loosely  covered  the  shoulders.  The 
women  wore  a  similar  robe,  which  reached  only  to  the 
'.vaist;  to  which  was  appended  a  kind  of  petticoat,  reach- 
ing from  the  waist  to  the  knee — formed  of  the  fibres  of 
cedar  bark  broken  into  shreds,  or  a  tissue  of  silk-grass, 
twisted  and  knotted  at  the  ends  ;  but  in  winter  they 
added  a  vest  of  skins.  The  men  carefully  eradicated 
every  vestig-e  of  a  beard,  considering-  it  a  great  deformity. 
But  both  sexes  allowed  the  hair  of  the  head,  which  is 
coarse  and  black,  and  of  which  they  are  very  proud,  to 
grow  to  great  length  ;  sometimes  wearing  it  plaited — 
sometimes  wound  round  the  head  in  fanciful  tresses. 
They  had  conical  hats,  with  narrow  rims,  woven  of  bear- 
grass,  or  the  fibres  of  cedar  bark  ;  and  exhibiting-,  in 
different  colours,  various  desig-ns — such  as  representa- 
tions of  canoes,  men  fishing,  &c.  They  also  wore  or- 
naments of  bears'  claws,  eiks'  tusks,  &:,c.,  as  trophies  of 
hunting  exploits.  But  an  intercourse  with  the  white 
traders  soon  effected  a  change  in  the  toilets  of  both  sexes  ; 
and  they  now  array  themselves  in  any  article  of  dress, 
and  use  any  ornament  they  can  procure. 

According  to  the  general  custom  of  American  savages, 
when  employed  in  warlike  expeditions,  they  painted  their 
bodies  and  faces  in  the  jnost  grotesque  and  hideous 
manner.  Their  arms  were  bows  and  arrows  ;  spears  ; 
and  war-clubs  two  and  a  half  feet  long,  and  double-edged. 
Some  wore  a  corslet  formed  of  pieces  of  hard  wood,  laced 
together  with  bear-grass,  so  as  to  form  a  light  coat  of 
mail,  pliant  to  the  body  ;  and  a  light  casque  of  cedar 
bark,  leather,  or  bear-grass,  sufficient  to  protect  the  head 

8* 


90 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


m 


from  an  arrow  or  a  war-club.  A  more  complete  article 
of  defensive  armour  was  a  buff  jerkin  or  shirt,  of  ^^rcat 
thickness,  made  of  doublinirs  of  elk  skin,  and  reaching 
to  the  feet ;  holes  being-  left  for  the  head  and  arms.  This 
was  perfectly  arrow-proof;  and  was,  besides,  often  be- 
lieved to  be  endowed  witli  charmed  virtues,  imparted  by 
the  priests  or  conjurors  of  the  tribe.  It  may  be  ob.-servcd, 
that  their  only  offensive  weapon  is  now  the  common  gun. 

Their  ideas  of  religion  do  not  differ  nmch  from  those 
of  the  natives  of  the  interior.  They  believe  in  an  om- 
nipotent and  benevolent  Spirit,  the  creator  of  all  things. 
They  represent  him  as  assuming  various  shapes  at  plea- 
sure ;  but  generally  give  him  tlic  accompaniment  of 
wings.  Though  he  usually  inhabits  the  sun,  he  occa- 
sionally vangs  his  way  through  the  ethereal  regions,  and 
sees  all  that  is  doing  on  earth :  and  thunders,  tempests, 
and  lightning,  are  the  modes  in  which  he  exhibits  his 
displeasure.  To  propitiate  his  favour,  they  offer  to  him, 
as  sacrifices,  the  first-fruits  of  their  hunting  and  fishing. 
They  also  believe  in  an  evil  spirit,  who  inhabits  the  fire, 
who  is  less  powerful  than  the  first,  and  is  occasionally 
employed  to  do  his  services.  Therefore  they  endeavour, 
in  all  their  undertakings,  to  propitiate  him  by  frequent 
offerings. 

They  have  a  belief  in  a  future  state  of  rewards  and 
punishments.  Those  who  have  well  and  faithfully  dis- 
charged  all  the  duties  of  this  life,  will  go  to  a  mild  and 
happy  region,  teeming  with  all  the  comforts  of  existence; 
while  those  who  pursue  an  opposite  course,  will  be  con- 
signed  to  a  cold  and  dreary  region,  where  bitter  fruits 
and  salt  water  will  form  their  ])rincipal  means  of  sub- 
sistence.  They  have  also  a  tradition  about  the  origin  of 
mankind  :  they  believe  that  man  was  originally  created 
by  the  superior  deity,  but  in  an  imperfect  state,  being 
rather  a  statue  of  flesh  than  a  perfect  being;  but  a  second 
divinity,  less  powerful,  in  pity  of  his  helpless  condition, 


OREGON  TERRITORV. 


91 


opened  his  oycs ;  gave  him  motion :  and  taught  him  all 
the  functic  IS  and  tlie  arts  of  life. 

They  liavc  their  priests  or  conjurors,  or  medicinemen, 
who  arc  supposed  to  be  in  the  confidence  of  the  deities, 
and  the  expounders  of  their  will.  Eacli  of  tliesc  has  liis 
diminutive  wooden  idols,  under  some  rude  form  of  a 
quadruped,  or  bird,  or  fish,  representing  the  spirits  of  the 
air  and  fire.  These  idols  arc  hung  round  with  amulets 
and  native  offerings,  such  as  beavers'  teeth,  bears'  and 
eagles'  claws,  &,c 

I  have  seen  the  following  account  in  print:  but  it  is 
incumbent  on  me  to  say,  that  though  I  mixed  very  much 
with  these  tribes,  and  was  acquainted  with  their  customs, 
ceremonies,  and  superstitions,  I  neither  witnessed  myself, 
nor  heard  of^  such  a  custom  existing  among  them. 

When  any  chief  personage  is  dangerously  ill,  the  priests 
are  sent  for,  who  bring  their  idols.  They  retire  into  a 
canoe,  to  hold  a  consultation,  and  if  they  do  not  agree  as 
to  the  malady,  or  the  mode  of  treatment,  they  settle  the 
dispute  by  beating  the  idols  against  each  other;  which- 
ever first  loses  a  tooth  or  a  claw,  is  considered  as  confuted. 
Though  this  mode  of  determining  the  right  is  not  so  for- 
midable as  the  practice  of  personal  combat,  or  treading 
the  red-hot  ploughshare,  once  practised  in  Christian  Eu- 
rope, yet  it  is  considered  equally  efficacious  in  arriving 
at  a  satisfactory  conviction. 

I  am  willing  to  believe  that  such  a  custom  did  exist, 
and  was  one  of  those  which  the  growing  intelligence  of 
the  natives,  in  consequence  of  their  intercourse  with 
civilized  men,  has  tended  to  abolish.  Indeed,  I  am  the 
more  inclined  to  this  belief,  from  my  knowledge  of  the 
frauds  still  practised  by  these  crafty  conjurors  on  the  cre- 
dulity of  the  natives.  I  will  state  an  example.  In  times 
of  pretended  inspiration,  and  communion  with  the  Great 
Spirit,  they  seize  a  fleshy  part  of  the  body,  about  the  sto- 
mach and  ribs,  in  one  hand,  and  plunge  a  dagger  riglit 
tiirough  the  fold,  without  drawing  blood.     This  act  is 


92 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


taken  as  a  proof  of  tlicir  invulnerability — a  favour  gfrant- 
cd  by  tliG  Great  Spirit.  I  have  seen  some  of  them  tlius 
gashed  all  over  the  front  of  the  body.  While  I  was 
in  char;[rc  of  Fort  Georg'c,  one  of  these  crafty  old  priests- 
prepared  to  perform  tliis  operation  in  my  presence.  Ho 
grasped  a  liandful  of  his  flabby  flesh,  and  drew  his  dag- 
ger. But  I  instantly  checked  him ;  as  my  acquiescence- 
would  be  tortured  by  liim  to  the  natives,  into  my  belief 
that  he  was  under  divine  protection.  Besides,  I  was  re- 
sponsible  for  the  execution  of  instructions  from  head- 
quarters, to  discourage  in  every  way  the  superstitious 
and  barbarous  practices  of  the  people,  and  the  impostures 
of  the  priests.  I  observed  that  they  avoided  those  parts 
where  they  mi  y  have  a  chance  of  striking  through  an 
artery. 

There  prevails  a  singular  custom  among  all  the  trtHR 
about  the  lower  part  of  the  Columbia — ^the  flattening  of 
the  Ibrchoad,  and  compression  of  the  whole  head ;  which 
gives  tliem  a  hideous  appearance.  Immediately  after 
birth  the  infant  is  laid  in  an  oblong  wooden  trough,  by 
way  of  cradle,  with  moss  under  it.  The  end  on  which 
the  head  reposes  is  raised  higher  than  the  rest.  A  pad- 
ding is  then  placed  on  the  infantas  forehead  with  a  piece 
of  cedar  bark  over  it ;  it  is  pressed  down  by  cords,  which 
pass  through  holes  on  each  side  of  the  trough.  As  the 
tightening  of  the  padding,  and  the  pressing  of  the  head 
to  the  board,  is  gradual,  the  process  is  said  not  to  be  at- 
tended with  much  pain. 

The  appearance  of  the  infant,  however,  while  under  it, 
is  shocking  :  its  little  black  eyes  seem  ready  to  start  from 
their  sockets — the  mouth  exhibits  all  the  indications  of 
internal  convulsion ;  and  it  clearly  appears  that  the  face 
is  gradually  undergoing  a  process  of  unnatural  configu- 
ration. About  a  year's  pressure  is  sufficient  to  produce 
tlie  desired  effect.  The  head  is  ever  after  completely 
flattened ;  and  the  upper  part  of  it,  on  the  crown,  seldom 
exceeds  an  inch  in  width.    This  is  deemed  a  mark  of 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


93 


r  graiit- 
3m  thus 
)  I  was 
1  priests 
CO.     Ho 
lis  dag- 
iescencc 
ly  belief 
was  rc- 
ni  head- 
rstitious 
postures 
ISO  parts 
ough  an 

he  triHJI 
ening  of 
which 
y  after 
)ugh,by 
which 
A  pad- 
a  piece 
,  which 
As  the 
le  head 
be  at- 

ider  it, 

|rt  from 

lions  of 

lie  face 

jnfigu- 

roduco 

>letely 

teldom 

irk  of 


beauty  and  distinction,  like  small  and  crippled  feet  among 
tlie  Chinese  ladies  of  rank. 

All  their  slaves,  wliom  tliey  purchase  from  the  neigli- 
houring-  tribes,  have  round  heads.  Every  eliild  of  a  slave, 
if  not  adopted  by  a  member  of  the  tribe,  nmst  be  left  to 
nature,  and  therefore  grow  up  witli  a  round  head.  This 
deformity  is,  consequently,  a  mark  of  their  freedom.  On 
examining  tlie  skulls  of  these  people  several  medical  men 
have  declared,  that  nothing,  short  of  ocular  demonstra- 
tion, could  have  convinced  them  of  the  possibility  of 
moulding  the  human  liead  into  such  a  form. 

Thougli  the  Indians  about  the  head-waters  of  the  Co- 
lumbia, and  in  the  other  regions  bordering  on  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  are  called  "  Flat  Heads,"  the  name  does  not 
result  from  such  a  characteristic  deformity,  for  all  these 
Mpplc  have  round  heads ;  but  aj)pearK  to  have  been  ori- 
gmally  given  them  from  caprice,  or  from  an  observance 
of  some  similarity  in  disposition  or  habit,  between  them 
and  the  savages  of  the  coast  at  the  mouth  of  the  river. 
The  best  supported  opinion  is,  that  they  were  of  the  same 
original  stock  with  the  lower  tribes,  but  discontinued  tlie 
custom. 

They  have  a  great  variety  of  games,  which  they  pur- 
sue often  with  such  ardour,  that  they  would  gamble  away 
every  thing  they  possess — even  their  wives  and  children. 
One  of  their  usual  games  is  this:  One  man  takes  a  small 
stone,  which  he  shifts  from  hand  to  hand  repeatedly,  all 
the  while  humming  a  low  monotonous  air.  The  bet 
being  made,  according  as  the  adversary  succeeds  in 
grasping  the  hand  whicli  con^^ains  the  stone,  he  wins  or 
loses.  The  game  is  generally  played  with  great  fairness ; 
and  the  loser  submits  with  the  most  philosophical  resig- 
nation. They  are  also  consummate  thieves,  and  proud 
of  their  dexterity.  He  who  is  frequently  successful  gains  9^ 
applause  and  popularity;  but  the  clumsy  thief,  who  is 
detected,  is  scoffed  at  and  despised. 

So  we  find  among  the  modern  savages,  on  the  shores 


1)4 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


# 


of  the  Pacific,  tlic  same  passion  for  jjainbling  wliirli, 
Tacitus  says,  existed  among  tlie  aboriginal  Germans; 
and  tile  same  merit  attaclied  to  dexterous  and  successlu. 
stealing  which  existed  among  tlic  ancient  Spartans.  Lik( 
tfie  Sj)artans,  too,  they  considered  drunkenness  a  great 
degradation, — a  vice  fit  only  for  slaves.  On  one  occasion 
the  son  ofComcomly,  chief  of  the  Chinooks,  was  induced 
to  drink  at  the  factory  until  he  became  intoxicated.  Ik 
then  played  the  most  extravagant  pranks.  He  was  sent 
liome  in  that  state  :  nnd  the  old  chief  went  to  the  factory 
in  a  state  of  high  rage,  and  reproached  the  people  tlicre 
for  having  degraded  his  son,  and  exposed  him  to  tlit 
laughter  and  contempt  of  his  slaves.  But,  however,  they 
deem  it,  in  general,  no  degradation  now  to  get  drunk, 
when  they  can. 

This  noted  chief,  Comcomly,  was  buried  with  great 
ceremony,  in  a  canoe  near  Fort  George,  in  1831.  His 
body  was  afterwards  taken  out  of  the  canoe,  for  greater 
security,  by  his  relations,  and  placed  in  a  long  box,  in  a 
lonely  part  of  the  woods.  But  the  precaution  was  idle. 
His  head  is  now  in  the  possession  of  some  eminent  phy- 
sician in  Edinburgh ;  and,  strange  to  say,  although  he 
had  been  buried  about  five  years,  his  skin  was  quite  dry, 
and  not  decayed.  It  required  a  very  sharp  knife  to  pene- 
trate the  skin ;  and  his  hair  was  still  on  his  head. 

Marriage  among  them  is  a  matter  for  previous  ncgo- 
tiation,  and  attended  with  solemnity.  When  a  young 
man  has  made  his  cJioice,  and  obtained  consent,  the  pa- 
rents, or  other  natural  guardians  of  the  girl,  are  next  to 
be  consulted.  These  are  to  receive  a  certain  quantity  of 
presents, — slaves,  axes,  kettles,  trinkets,  &c.  When  the 
amount  is  agreed  on,  thoy  repair  to  the  house  intended 
for  the  young  couple,  to  which  the  most  respectable  in- 
habitants of  the  village  are  invited.  The  young  man, 
having  distributed  the  presents,  receives,  in  the  style  of 
the  heroes  of  the  Homeric  age,  an  equal,  often  a  greater 
number,  of  presents  from  the  girPs  relations.    Then  the 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


95 


lir'ulo,  (lororatcd  with  various  ornaments,  is  \vd  fortli  by 
a  ti'W  olil  woincn,  and  jircscntcd  to  llic  l)ri(lrj,^ro(uii,  who 
receives  Ikt  as  his  wife.  The  eonipany,  alter  j)artakinj»' 
oi'  hospitality,  and  wisliin^  the  yown^  couple  every  iiap- 
piiiiss — a  numerous  proj[,'eny,  abundance,  and  peace,  re- 
tin'.  Thouj[rli  tlK>  union  is  generally  lasting,  it  is  not  in. 
dissoluble  ;  as  a  man  may,  for  infidelity,  repudiate  his 
wife ;  who  is,  after  that,  at  liberty  to  take  another  hus- 
'ijiind.  Polygamy  i.s  not  only  allowed,  but  is  a  mark  of 
distinction.  The  greater  the  number  of  wives  a  man 
can  maintain  the  higher  is  he  esteemed.  In  fact,  the 
respectability  and  influence  of  the  chief  depends  on  the 
number  of  wives,  slaves,  and  other  property  which  he 
possesses;  and  his  election  to  the  oliice  mainly  depends 
on  this  qualification.  Though  the  wives  generally  live 
in  harmony  together,  tJie  first  wife  takes  precedence  of 
all  the  others,  and  is  considered  as  mistress  of  the  liouse. 

They  regulate  the  prices  of  tiieir  articles  by  haiqua^ 
which  is  a  milk-white  round  shell  of  extreme  hardness, 
found  in  the  neighbourhood  of  xVootka  Sound.  It  varies 
in  length  from  one  to  four  inches,  and  is  about  half  an 
inch  thick — hollow,  slightly  curved,  and  tapering  a  little 
towards  the  ends.  It  is  highly  estimated,  the  longest 
being  the  most  valuable. 

It  resembles  the  top  shank  of  a  common  clay  smoking, 
pipe.  They  are  valued  in  proportion  to  the  number  that, 
when  ranged  on  a  string,  passing  through  their  hollow 
tubes,  extend  a  fathom's  length.  Forty  to  the  fathom,  is 
supposed  to  be  the  fixed  standard  of  excellence  and  worth : 
for  instance,  forty  which  make  a  fathom  are  worth  nearly 
double  fifty  which  make  a  fathom.  There  extreme  fra- 
gility, lightness,  tenuity,  and  delicacy  of  colour,  arc  what 
appear  to  give  them  their  importance.  They  are  thus 
caught  in  Nootka  Sound,  and  along  Vancouver's  Island : 
— a  piece  of  deer  flesh,  or  of  fish,  is  dropped  from  a  line 
to  the  bottom :  this  they  cling  to ;  and  they  are  then 
drawn  up,  and  carefully  gutted  and  preserved. 


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OREGON  TERRITORY. 


StiirfTcnn  Jishinrr, — Sturgeon  arc  cauglit  by  the  Clii. 
nooks  in  the  rollowing  manner.  To  the  line — wliicli  is 
i.iade  from  the  twisted  roots  of  trees — is  attached  a  lar;rc 
].')ok,  made  of  hard  wood.  This  is  lowered  some  twenty 
ici'i  below  the  surface  of  the  water.  The  canoes  arc  not 
more  than  ten  feet  long;  manned  by  never  more  than 
two,  sometimes  only  by  one;  and  slowly  drill  down  tlio 
river  with  the  current.  When  the  sturgeon  bites,  and 
I'ley  have  him  fast,  the  line  is  hauled  up  gently  until 
they  get  his  head  to  the  water's  edge.  He  then  receives 
a  l)low  from  a  heavy  wooden  mallet,  which  kills  him. 
The  gunwale  of  the  canoe  is  lowered  to  the  verge  of  the 
v.ater ;  and  the  sturgeon,  though  weighing  upwards  of 
three  hundred  pounds,  is,  by  the  single  effort  of  one  In- 
dian,  jerked  into  the  boat. 

A  few  months  since,  I  saw  a  paragraph  in  most  of  the 
largely  circulated  papers,  stating  that  a  sturgeon  weigh- 
ing three  or  four  hundred  pounds  had  been  caught  in  the 
river  Thames ;  and  that  a  host  of  people,  amounting  to 
two  or  three  hundred,  were  employed  in  killing  this  fish. 
I  thought  that  the  old  saying,  of  nine  tailors  making  a 
man,  was  exceeded  in  this  case  ;  as  it  appears  that  it 
took  tliree  hundred  Englishmen  to  make  one  Chinool; 
Kturgeon-catcher. 

Their  houses  are  constructed  of  wood,  and  vary  in 
length  from  twenty  to  seventy  feet,  and  in  breadth  from 
tifteen  to  twcnty-fivo  feet.  Two  or  more  posts  of  split 
timber,  according  to  the  number  of  partitions,  are  sunk 
tirmly  into  tlie  ground,  and  rise  upwards  to  the  height  iof 
tifteen  or  eighteen  feet.  They  are  grooved  at  the  top  so 
a^  to  receive  tlie  ends  of  a  round  beam  or  pole,  stretching 
iVom  one  end  to  the  other,  and  forming  the  upper  point  of 
trie  roof,  from  onr  end  of  the  building  to  the  other.  On 
oach  side  of  tlii.s  range  is  placed  anotlier  row  much  lower, 
being  about  five  feet  high,  which  forms  the  eaves  of  the 
liouse.  But  as  tlie  building  is  often  sunk  to  the  depth  of 
four  or  five  feet  in  the  ground,  the  eaves  come  very  near 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


97 


the  surface  of  the  earth.  Smaller  pieces  of  timber  are 
tlicn  extended,  by  pairs,  in  tlie  form  of  rafters  from  the 
lower  to  the  higher  beam,  and  are  fastened  at  both  ends 
by  cords  of  cedar  bark.  On  these  rafters  two  or  three 
ranges  of  small  poles  are  placed  horizontally,  and  in  the 
same  way  fastened  with  similar  cords.  The  sides  are 
then  made,  with  a  range  of  wide  boards  sunk  a  small 
distance  into  the  ground,  with  the  upper  ends  projecting 
above  the  poles  of  the  eaves,  to  which  they  are  secured 
by  a  beam  passing  outside,  parallel  with  the  eave  poles, 
and  tied  by  cords  of  cedar  bark  passing  through  the 
holes  made  in  the  boards  at  certain  distances.  The  gable- 
ends  and  partitions  are  formed  in  the  same  way ;  being 
fastened  by  beams  on  the  outside,  parallel  with  the  rafters. 
The  roof  is  then  covered  with  a  double  range  of  thin 
boards,  excepting  a  space  of  two  or  three  feet  in  the 
centre,  which  serves  for  a  chimney.  The  entrance  is  by 
a  hole  cut  through  the  boards,  and  just  large  enough  to 
admit  the  body. 

The  largest  houses  are  divided  by  partitions;  and 
three  or  four  families  may  be  found  residing  in  a  one> 
roomed  house.  In  the  centre  of  each  room  is  a  space, 
six  or  eight  feet  square,  sunk  to  the  depth  of  twelve 
inches  below  the  rest  of  the  floor,  and  enclosed  by  four 
pieces  of  square  timber  ;  here  they  make  the  fire,  which 
is  of  wood  and  pine  bark.  The  partitions  in  the  houses 
are  intended  to  separate  different  families.  Around  the 
fire-place  mats  are  spread,  and  serve  as  seats  by  day,  and 
frequently  as  beds  at  night :  there  is,  how^ever,  a  more 
permanent  bed  made,  by  fixing  in  two,  or  sometimes 
three,  sides  of  a  room,  posts  reaching  from  the  roof  to  the 
floor,  and  at  the  distance  of  four  feet  from  the  wall. 
From  these  posts  to  the  wall  one  or  two  ranges  of  boards 
are  placed,  so  as  to  form  shelves,  on  which  they  either 
sleep  or  stow  their  various  articles  of  merchandise.  In 
short,  they  are  like  berths  in  a  ship.  The  uncured  fish 
is  hung  in  the  smoke  of  their  fires ;  as  is  also  the  fles 

9 


■  i:>)| 


98 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


iJSt! 

II^^H 

liWBB 

Tw 

of  the  elk  when  they  arc  fortunate  enough  to  procure 
any. 

Their  culinary  articles  consist  of  a  large  square  kettle, 
made  of  cedar  wood,  a  few  platters,  and  spoons  made  of 
ash.  Their  mode  of  cooking  is  expeditious.  Having  put 
a  quantity  of  water  into  the  kettle,  they  throw  into  it 
several  hot  stones,  which  quickly  cause  the  water  to  boil; 
then  the  fish  or  flesh  js  put  in ;  the  steam  is  kept  fi*om 
evaporating  by  a  small  mat  thrown  over  the  kettle.  By 
this  mode  a  large  salmon  would  be  boiled  in  twenty 
minutes,  and  meat  in  a  proportionably  short  space  of 
time.  They  occasionally  roast  their  fish  and  flesh  on 
small  wooden  skewers. 

For  the  felling  and  cutting  of  trees — sometimes  from 
thirty  to  forty  feet  in  circumference — for  building  their 
houses,  and  forming  their  canoes,  they  had  not,  previous 
to  their  intercourse  with  the  whites,  even  an  axe.  For 
such  immense  work  their  only  instruments  consisted  of  a 
chisel,  formed  out  of  an  old  file  ;  a  kind  of  oblong  stone 
used  as  a  hammer,  and  a  mallet  made  of  spruce-tree 
knot,  well  oiled  and  hardened  by  the  action  of  the  fire. 

They  arc  very  ingenious  in  the  construction  of  their 
nets,  which  arc  made  of  a  sort  of  wild  hemp,  sometimes 
called  silk-grass,  found  on  the  upper  borders  of  the  Co- 
lumbia; or  of  the  fibres  of  the  roots  of  trees;  or  the  inner 
ligaments  of  the  bark  of  the  white  cedar.  These  nets 
are  of  different  kinds,  for  the  different  kinds  of  fishery — 
the  straight  net  for  the  larger  fish  in  deep  water;  and 
the  scooping  or  dipping-net  for  the  smaller  fish  in  the 
shallower  waters.  They  also  use  a  curious  sort  of  many- 
pronged  spear,  for  drawing  up  small  fish.  This  is  a  pole 
set  all  round  with  numerous  short  wooden  little  spikes. 
This  they  work  along  against  the  current  from  the  canoe, 
and  against  the  small  fish,  that  swim  onwards  in  dense 
masses.  At  every  take-up  of  this  spear,  which  is  done 
in  quick  succession,  it  is  found  filled  with  fishes  impaled 
on  those  sharp  spikes.    In  their  nets  they  use  stones  in 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


99 


jilacc  of  lead  ;  and  their  superior  usefulness  and  adapta- 
tion  to  tiic  fishery  of  the  Columbia,  over  the  nets  of  the 
civilized  white,  may  he  shown  from  the  following-  fact. 

A  Mr.  Wyeth,  of  Boston,  having  lieard  much  of  the 
salmon  fishery  in  the  Columbia,  and  thinkincr  it  would 
afford  a  profitable  trading  speculation,  chartered  a  vessel, 
in  1835  ;  and  on  his  way  took  a  number  of  the  Sandwich 
Islanders  as  fishermen ;  supplying  himself  also  with  a 
cargo  of  fishing  nets,  and  a  great  variety  of  other  fishing 
apparatus,  on  the  most  approved  principles.  On  arriving 
at  the  Columbia  he  set  vigorously  to  work,  dead  sure  of 
making  a  fortune.  But  his  nets  were  totally  unfit  for  the 
occupation ;  and  his  exotic  fishermen,  notoriously  fami- 
liar as  they  are  with  the  watery  element,  were  no  match 
ibr  the  natives,  pursuing  their  natural  occupation  in 
almost  their  indigenous  element,  and  bo  familiar  with  the 
seasons,  the  currents,  the  localities,  and  all  the  many 
other  circumstances  that  insure  success.  He  set  up  for 
a  fur  trader  as  well,  and  imagined  that  he  would  make 
up  his  loss  in  competition  against  the  savages  by  his 
successful  competition  against  the  Company.  But  his 
trappers  were  not  more  successful  than  his  fishermen  ; 
although  the  Company  afforded  him  every  facility ;  and, 
lie  was  obliged  to  quit  the  country  a  disappointed  adven- 
turer, having  disposed  of  his  goods  and  chattels  to  the 
Company,  who,  according  to  his  own  written  statement, 
treated  him  with  generosity.  To  this  fact,  which  I  now 
state,  Mr.  \7ashington  Irving  bears  honoui  able  testimony. 


..• : 


*     -     CI 


»      'J  1.    .  » 


;*V 


100 


OREGON  TERIIITORV. 


f-! 


CHAPTER  XI. 

Fort  Vancouver — its  farm  establishment. 

Fort  Vancouver  is  tlie  head-quarters,  establishment, 
or  grand  dep6t  of  the  Company,  west  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains.  It  is  situated  near  Point  Vancouver  (so 
called  from  the  celebrated  English  navigator  and  dis. 
coverer  in  those  seas)  on  the  northwest  of  the  Columbia, 
on  a  large,  level  plain,  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  the 
shore,  and  ninety  miles  from  the  Pacific.  The  river  in 
front  of  it  is  seventeen  hundred  yards  wide,  and  six 
fathoms  deep.  The  whole  country  round  is  covered  with 
noble  woods,  consisting  of  many  kinds  of  valuable  timber ; 
such  as  cedar,  pine,  &.c.,  interspersed  with  open  and 
fertile  spaces.  It  was  founded  in  1824,  by  Governor 
Simpson ;  as  the  locnlity  was  more  convenient  for  trade 
— had  a  larger  and  richer  tract  of  land  for  cultivation — 
and  afforded  a  more  convenient  landing-place  for  cargoes 
from  the  ships,  than  the  former  dep6t — Fort  George  (or 
Astoria) — which  lay  near  the  mouth  of  the  river. 

Fort  Vancouver  is  then  the  grand  mart  and  rendezvous 
for  the  Company's  trade  and  servants  on  the  Pacific. 
Thither  all  tb^  farf}*  un»i'o'thtT  articles  of  trade  collected 
west  oCXYic  ki^cky  j^loinftai-ns.  frl)m  Cartfornin.to  the  Rus- 
sian  teFritorifes,*  ar(i  broiiglit  from  the  several  other  forts 
and  statiopF':  and  from-  thtoce  lliey  nvc'  shipped*  to  Eng- 
land. 'Thrthep  too  oil  till*"  goods'broujht*  from  England 
lor  traflic-^tlie  \aridu6  articles  in  woollens  and  cottons — 
in  grocery — in  hardware — ready-made  clothes — oils  and 
paints — ship  stores,  Sec,  are  landed ;  and  from  thence 
they  are  distributed  to  tlie  various  posts  of  the  interior. 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


101 


and  along  the  northern  shores  by  sailing  vessels,  or  by 
boat,  or  pack-horses,  as  the  several  routes  permit,  for 
distribution  and  traffic  among  the  natives,  or  for  the 
supply  of  the  Company's  servants.  In  a  word.  Fort 
Vancouver  is  the  grand  emporium  of  the  Company's 
trade,  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains ;  as  well  within  tlie 
Oregon  Territory  as  beyond  it,  from  California  to  Kamt- 
schatka. 

The  present  governor  is  Dr.  John  M'Loughlin.  He  is 
described  by  American  writers,  whom  he  entertained  in 
his  usual  style,  as  a  portly,  digniiied-looking  man,  almost 
six  feet  high,  with  a  florid  complexion — gray  hair — large 
blue  eyes — an  open  and  benevolent  expression  of  counte- 
nance— bland  and  courteous  manners — a  generous  and 
most  hospitable  disposition.  This  I  know  to  be  all  true. 
He  has  been  in  the  service  of  the  Company  from  his 
youth,  to  his  own  credit  and  their  great  benefit.  He  has 
mounted  up  to  his  present  high  office — the  highest — by 
his  diligence,  integrity,  and  skill.  He  is  thoroughly 
familiar  with  the  whole  trade,  in  all  its  ramifications  and 
minutise.  He  has  contributed  greatly  to  bring  it  to  its 
present  high  state,  and  is  making  every  effijrt  to  advance 
it  farther.  He  was  a  very  influential  partner  in  the 
Northwest  Company,  before  its  junction  with  the  Hud- 
son's Bay  Company.  During  his  occasional  absence  his 
duties  are  discharged  by  his  worthy  deputy,  J.  Douglas, 
Esq. 

The  fort  is  in  the  shape  of  a  parallelogram,  about  two 
hundred  and  fifty  yards  long  by  one  hundred  and  fifty 
broad,  enclosed  by  a  sort  of  wooden  wall,  made  of  pickets, 
or  large  beams  firmly  fixed  in  the  ground,  and  closely 
fitted  together,  twenty  feet  high,  and  strongly  secured  on 
the  inside  by  buttresses.  At  each  angle  there  is  a 
bastion,  mounting  two  twelve.pounders,  and  in  the  centre 
there  are  some  eighteen-pounders ;  but  from  the  subdued 
and  pacific  character  of  the  natives,  and  the  long  absence 
of  all  apprehension,  these  cannon  have  become  useless. 

9* 


10-2 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


TIic  area  within  is  divided  into  two  courts,  around  which 
arc  arranged  about  forty  neat,  strong  wooden  buildings, 
one  story  high,  designed  for  various  purposes — such  as 
offices,  apartments  for  the  clerks,  and  other  officers — 
warehouses  for  furs,  English  goods,  and  other  commodi- 
ties — workshops  for  tlic  different  mechanics  ;  carpenters, 
blacksmiths,  coopers,  wheelwriglits,  tinners,  &.c. ;  in  all  of 
which  there  is  the  most  diligent  and  unceasing  activity 
and  industry.  There  is  also  a  schoolhousc  and  chapel, 
and  a  powder  magazine,  built  of  brick  and  stone. 

In  the  centre  stands  the  governor's  residence,  which  is 
two  stories  high — the  dining  hall,  and  the  public  sitting- 
room.     All  the  clerks  and  officers,  including  the  chaplain 
and  physician,  dine  together  in  the  hall,  the  governor 
presiding.    The  dinner  is  of  the  most  substantial  kind, 
consisting  of  several  courses.   Wine  is  frequently  allowed, 
but  no  spirituous  liquors.     After  grace  has  been  said,  the 
company  break  up.     Then  most  of  tlie  party  retire  to  the 
public    sitting-room,   called   "Bachelor's   Hall,"   or  the 
smoking-room^  to  amuse  themselves  as  they  please,  cither 
in  smoking,  reading,  or  telling  and  listening  to  stories  of 
their   own,  and  others'  curious  adventures.    Sometimes 
there  is  a  great  influx  of  company,  consisting  of  the  chief 
traders  from  the  outposts,  who   arrive   at  the   fort   on 
business,  and   the   commanders   of  vessels.    These   are 
gala  times  after  dinner,  and  there   is   a   great  deal  of 
amusement,  but  always  kept  under  strict  discipline,  and 
regulated  by  the   strictest  propriety.     There   is,  on   no 
occasion,  cause   for  ennui,  or  a  lack  of  anecdote   and 
interesting  narrative,  or  indeed  of  any  intellectual  amuse- 
ment ;  for  if  smoking  and  story-tclliuQ  be  irksome,  then 
there  is  the  horse  ready  to  mount,  and  the  rifle  prepared. 
The   voyageur   and   the    trapper,   who    have    traversed 
thousands  of  miles,  through  wild  and  unfrequented  re. 
gions,  and  the   mariner,  who  has  circumnavigated  the 
globe,  may  be  found  grouped  together,  smoking,  joking, 
singing,  and  story.telling,  and  in  every  way  banishing 


OREGON  TERRITORV. 


103 


dull  carr,  till  tiic  period  of  their  again  setting  out  for 
tJieir  respective  destinations  arrive. 

The  smoking"  room,  or  "  Bachelor's  Hall,"  presents  tiie 
appearance  of  an  armoury  and  a  museum.  All  sorts  of 
weapons,  and  dresses,  and  curiosities  of  civilized  and  sa- 
vage life,  and  of  the  various  implements  for  the  prctccu- 
tion  of  the  trade,  may  be  seen  there. 

The  mechanics,  and  other  servants  of  the  establish, 
ment,  do  not  dine  in  the  hall,  or  go  to  the  smoking-room. 

The  clerks,  after  passing  through  many  stages  of  trust 
and  emolument,  are  promoted  to  the  post  of  chief  trader : 
after  that  to  the  post  of  chief  factor ;  then  they  ascend 
to  become  shareholders  of  the  Company,  and  governors 
of  forts.  But  all  the  gradations  of  promotion  are,  in 
general,  dependent  on  skill,  industry,  and  integrity.  In- 
deed, throughout  the  various  ramifications  and  degrees  of 
this  vast,  and  widespread  commercial  association,  there 
is  less  favouritism  than  could  be  expected,  and  less  than 
in  any  other  mercantile  institution :  almost  all  the  pa- 
tronage of  the  Company  is  bestowed  as  the  reward  of 
merit,  and  long  service.  The  precision,  order,  and  regu- 
larity with  which  the  various  operations  are  carried  on, 
together  with  the  strict  decorum  and  sobriety  observed, 
are  entitled  to  the  highest  commendation ;  and  excite  the 
wonder  of  the  Americans  ! 

The  school  is  for  the  benefit  of  the  half-breed  children 
of  the  officers  and  servants  of  the  Company,  and  of .  .niiy 
orphan  children  of  Indians  who  have  been  in  the  Coa;- 
pany's  employment.  They  are  taught  English  (some- 
times French),  writing,  arithmetic,  and  geography  ;  and 
are  subsequently  either  apprenticed  to  traders  in  Canada ; 
or  kept  in  the  Company's  service. 

The  front  square  is  the  place  where  the  Indians  and 
trappers  deposit  their  furs,  and  other  articles,  and  make 
their  sales,  &e.  There  may  be  seen,  too,  great  numbers 
of  men  sorting  and  packing  the  various  goods ;  and 
scores  of  Canadians  beating  and  cleaning  the  furs  from 


'1 


It,: 


104 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


tlij  dust  and  vermin  and  coarse  hairs,  previous  to  expor- 
tation. 

Six  liundrcd  yards  below  the  fort,  and  on  the  bank  of 
tlic  river,  there  is  a  neat  village,  of  about  sixty  well-built 
wooden  houses,  generally  constructed  like  those  within 
the  fort ;  in  which  the  mechanics,  and  other  servants  of 
the  Company,  who  are  in  general  Canadians  and  Scotch, 
men,  reside  with  their  families.  They  arc  built  in  rows, 
.and  present  the  appearance  of  small  streets.  They  are 
kept  in  a  clean  and  orderly  manner.  Here  there  is  an 
hospital,  in  which  the  invalided  servants  of  the  Company, 
and,  indeed,  others  who  may  wish  to  avail  themselves  of 
it,  are  treated  with  the  utmost  care.  This  is  attended  by 
Dr.  Tolmic,  the  resident  surgeon  of  the  fort. 

Many  of  the  officers  of  the  Company  marry  half-breed 
women.  These  discharge  the  several  duties  of  wife  and 
mother  with  fidelity,  cleverness,  and  attention.  They 
are,  in  general,  good  housewives ;  and  are  remarkably 
ingenious  as  needlewomen.  Many  of  them,  besides  pos- 
sessing a  knowledge  of  English,  speak  French  correctly, 
and  possess  other  accomplishment;  and  they  sometimes 
attend  their  husbands,  on  their  distant  and  tedious  jour- 
neys and  voyages.  These  half-breed  women  arc  of  a 
superior  class ;  being  the  daughters  of  chief  traders  and 
factors,  and  other  persons  high  in  the  Company's  service, 
by  Indian  women,  of  a  superior  descent  or  of  superior 
personal  attractions.  Though  they  generally  dress  after 
the  English  fashion,  according  as  they  see  it  used  by  the 
English  wives  of  the  superior  officers,  yet  they  retain  one 
peculiarity — the  leggin  or  gaiter,  which  is  made  (now 
that  the  tanned  deer-skin  has  been  superseded)  of  the 
finest,  and  most  gaudy-coloured  cloth,  beautifully  orna- 
mented with  beads. 

The  lower  classes  of  the  Company's  servants  marry 
native  women,  from  the  tribes  of  the  upper  country; 
where  the  women  are  round-headed,  and  beautiful 
These,  too,  generally  speaking,  soon  learn  the  art  of  use- 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


105 


fill  houscwilcry  with  great  adroitness  and  readiness ;  and 
tlicy  are  encouraged  and  rewarded  in  every  way  by  tlie 
Conipan}',  in  llieir  efforts  to  aequirc  domestic  economy 
and  comfort.  These  too,  imitate,  in  costume,  tlie  dress  of 
tiic  officers'  wives,  as  mucli  n.h  tliey  can ;  but  from  their 
necessities  of  position,  which  exposes  them  more  to  wet 
and  drudgery,  they  retain  the  mocassin,  in  place  of  adopt- 
ing the  low-quartered  shoe.  This  is  made  of  decr-skin, 
dressed  under  a  peculiar  process ;  the  most  important  of 
which  is  seasoning  over  warm  smoke,  by  which  the  leather 
is  rendered  perfectly  waterproof.  These  mocassins  arc 
so  elastic  that  they  can  be  drawn  on  like  a  stocking ;  and 
so  light  that  they  serve  the  purposes  of  high  shoe  and 
stocking  together.  They  are  open  partly  down  the  front; 
one  side  lapping  over  the  other ;  and  fastened  with  a  long 
strip  of  the  same  leather — drawn  upwards — passing  two 
or  three  times  round  the  leg. 

The  half-breeds  are  a  very  well-featured  race ;  and  the 
men  are  remarkably  ingenious,  athletic,  and  vigorous. 
In  horsemanship  they  are  singularly  adroit.  Nor  is  this 
to  be  wondered  at ;  for  in  fact  they  have  been  reared 
from  their  extremest  youth  to  the  management  of  the 
horse,  accompanying  their  parents,  generally,  in  their 
trapping  journeys  over  the  plains  and  hills  on  horseback. 
One  of  these  practised  half-breeds  would  receive  applause 
from  Alexander  of  Macedon  himself,  or  the  best  tutored 
equestrian  at  Astlcy's.  He  would  mount  the  wildest  and 
most  high-mettled  Bucephalus  of  the  plains — give  him 
full  play  over  level  and  rough — high  and  low — river  and 
hill,  until  he  brought  him  back  as  tame  as  a  mouse. 

The  cleverest  fellow,  of  this  school,  I  ever  saw  w^as 
Joseph  M'Loughlin,  a  natural  son  of  the  present  gover- 
nor^ by  a  half-breed  woman.  He  was  a  person  of  some 
little  distinction  from  the  accident  of  his  birth,  inde- 
pendently of  his  astonishing  equestrian  capabilities.  In 
seeing  his  feats,  wlien  managing  a  wild  stallion,  tliat  gal- 
loped and  plunged  to  desperation, — clinging  to  the  ani- 


IOC 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


(•'     {''. 


mnl,  as  if  he  were  an  inseparable  part  of  liini — playfully 
tossinir  his  hare  head  over  the  uprcared  head  of  tlie  Jiorsc, 
while  his  hreech  cliintj  to  liis  back  with  the  tenacity  of 
wax;  and  his  heels  seemed  ^lued  to  his  ribs;  with  his 
hands  fastened  in  the  mane ;  he  completely  explained  to 
me  the  fabulous  stories  which  I  read  in  jny  boyhood  oi 
the  Centaurs;  for  I  at  once  saw  that  there  was  sonic 
jrround  for  the  old  pictures  of  poets  and  painters,  in  draw, 
in^  a  compound  animal — man  and  horse. 

The  modo  generally  adopted  in  catching  the  wild 
horse  is  by  the  lasso,  or  noose  rope.  An  experienced 
and  well-mounted  man,  riding  a  practised  horse,  gallops 
up  to  a  herd,  holding  his  head  as  close  to  his  horse's  How* 
ing  mane  as  possible,  for  a  disguise.  Thus  he  is  enabled 
to  approach  the  herd.  The  herd,  on  seeing  him  fully, 
then  scamper  ofF,  from  an  instinctive  dread  of  danger. 
But  he  gallops  on  until  he  comes  within  effective  range, 
and  has  taken  his  aim.  He  then  lets  ily  his  noose,  which 
is  at  the  end  of  a  long  rope,  kept  previously  coiled  up. 
This  is  discharged  like  a  stone  from  a  sling;  and  is 
thrown  with  such  unerring  precision,  that  the  horse's 
neck  is  caught  in  the  noose.  He  is  at  once  prostrated. 
The  rider  dismounts  and  fetters  him.  He  is  soon  after, 
wards  tamed.  Sometimes  the  horses  are  thus  caught 
when  roaming  at  large,  in  the  wide  and  open  plain ;  but 
the  more  general  custom  now  is  for  a  number  of  horse- 
men to  scare  them  into  a  kind  of  enclosed  park,  where 
the  process  of  catching  is  rendered  more  easy  and  expe- 
ditious. Sometimes  these  ropes  are  made  of  the  coarse, 
strong  hemp  of  the  country ;  but  generally  of  thongs 
from  the  tanned  buffalo-hide,  as  this  substance,  from  its 
superior  weight,  strength,  and  elasticity,  is  discharged 
from  the  hand  with  greater  force,  and  effects  its  purpose 
with  speedier  and  surer  effect. 

Attached  to  the  fort  there  is  a  magnificent  farm,  con- 
sisting of  about  three  thousand  acres ;  of  which  about  fif- 
teen hundred  acres  have  been  already  brought  to  the 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


107 


liijjlust  state  of  tillapfo.  It  stretches  behind  the  fort,  and 
on  both  sides,  along"  the  banks  of  the  river.  It  is  fenced 
into  beautiful  corn-fields  —  vepetable-fields  —  orchards  — 
•rardens — and  pasture-fields,  which  arc  intersjicrsed  with 
jiiiiry-liouses,  shepherds'  and  herdsmen's  cottages.  It  is 
placed  under  the  most  judicious  management:  and  neither 
expense  nor  labour  has  been  spared  to  bring'  it  to  the 
most  perfect  cultivation.  There  is  a  large  grist-mill,  and 
a  threshing-mill,  which  arc  worked  by  horsepower ;  and 
a  saw-mill  worked  by  water-power.  All  kinds  of  grain 
and  vegetables,  and  many  species  of  fruits,  are  produced 
there  in  abundance  and  of  superior  quality.  The  grain 
crops  arc  produced  without  manure  ;  and  the  wheat  crop, 
especially,  is  represented  by  practical  farmers  to  be  won- 
derful. It  must,  however,  be  observed,  that  Indian  corn 
docs  not  thrive  there  so  well  as  in  other  soils.  IJut  this 
is  not  considered  as  any  matter  for  regret  or  loss.  Me- 
lons and  grapes  grow  there  remarkably  well.  But  per- 
haps the  greatest  curiosity  of  all  is  to  be  seen  in  the 
dwarf  apple-trees.  These  grow  thickly,  and  are  so  loaded 
with  fruit  of  the  best  quality,  that  it  is  necessary  to  prop 
up  the  branches  to  prevent  them  from  breaking:  the 
apples  grow  packed  together,  resembling  onions  fastened 
in  rows  on  a  string.  The  whole  farm  is  in  charge  of  a 
most  experienced  farmer,  Mr.  G.  Allen,  a  Scotchman. 
There  is  also  a  principal  gardener,  Mr.  Bruce,  a  Scotch. 
man.  Mr.  Allen  having*  been  placed  as  agent  for  the 
Company  at  the  Sandwich  Islands,  Mr.  George  Roberts, 
whose  skill  and  zeal  pointed  him  out  to  the  Company  as 
one  worthy  of  promotion  and  confidence,  was  selected  as 
the  fittest  successor  to  Mr.  Allen  in  his  important  post. 

Besides  this  farm,  which  they  are  every  day  extending, 
they  have  commenced  farming-  on  a  large  scale  on  the 
Cowilitze,  to  the  north ;  Umpqua,  to  the  south ;  and  in 
other  parts  of  the  territory,  where  they  have  established 
posts,  the  produce  of  all  which  they  use  for  exportation 
botli  to  the  Russian  stations,  in  Kamtschatka  (as  they 


108 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


entered  into  a  contract  with  the  Russians,  in  1830, 
to  supply  their  posts  in  those  regions  with  provisions  at 
fixed  prices),  and  to  the  islands  in  the  Southern  Pacific; 
and  to  British  and  American  whalers,  and  to  other  mer. 
chant  ships. 

They  also  keep  scores  of  woodcutters,  employed  to  fell 
timber,  which  is  sawed  up  in  large  quantities — three 
thousand  feet  a  day,  and  regularly  shipped  for  the  Sand- 
wich  Islands,  and  other  foreign  parts.  And  as  they  can 
alford  to  sell  the  goods  purchased  in  England  under  a 
contract  of  old  standing,  together  with  the  productions  of 
the  territory  and  their  own  farms, — fish,  beef,  mutton, 
pork,  timber,  &.C.,  at  nearly  half  the  American  price, 
they  are  likely  to  engross  the  whole  trade  of  the  Pacific, 
as  they  do  already  the  trade  of  the  Oregon  ;  especially 
since  they  command  all  the  ports  and  safe  inlets  of  the 
country.  This  the  Americans  feel  and  declare ;  and  it  is 
this  that  whets  their  cupidity,  and  excites  their  jealousy 
and  hatred. 

Trapping-Parties  leaving  Vancouver- — These  parties 
are  some  weeks  preparing  for  the  mountains  and  prairies. 
The  blacksmiths  are  busily  engaged  making  beaver-traps 
for  the  trappers — the  storekeepers  making  up  articles  for 
trade,  and  equipping  the  men  (as  each  of  them  takes 
from  the  store  every  requisite  article),  the  clerk  in  charge 
of  the  provision-store  (generally  called,  after  the  French, 
depance)^  packing  up  provisions  for  them,  to  last  until 
they  get  into  hunting-ground — the  clerk  in  charge  of  the 
farm  providing  horses,  and  other  requisite  articles. 

The  party  generally  consists  of  about  fifty  or  sixty 
men — most  of  them  the  Company's  servants — others,  free 
hunters.  The  servants  have  a  stated  salary,  while  the 
freemen  receive  so  much  per  skin.  Previous  to  leaving 
the  fort  for  their  arduous  adventure,  they  are  allowed  a 
small  quantity  of  rum  per  man ;  and  they  generally  en- 
joy a  grand  holiday  and  feast  the  night  previous  to  start- 
ing.  Each  man  has  a  certain  number  of  horses,  sufficient 


OREGON  TERRITORT. 


109 


to  carry  his  equipment.  The  free  trappers  generally  pro- 
vide their  own  animals.  Both  the  Company's  servants 
and  the  freemen  frequently  take  their  wives  and  families 
with  them  :  the  women  are  very  useful  on  the  expedi- 
tion, in  preparing  meals  and  other  necessaries  for  their 
husbands  during  their  absence  from  the  camp.  In  sum- 
mer and  winter,  whetlier  they  have  a  sort  of  travelling 
camp  or  a  fixed  residence,  they  select  the  localities  that 
most  abound  in  fur-bearing  animals.  -    ' 

Though  a  party  may  be  obliged,  from  a  variety  of  cir- 
cumstances, to  winter  in  the  plains,  or  in  the  recesses  of 
the  mountains,  on  the  borders  of  lakes  or  rivers,  some 
numbers  of  it  return  to  the  fort  at  the  fall^  with  the  pro- 
duce of  the  season's  hunt,  and  report  progress ;  and  re- 
turn to  the  camp  with  a  reinforcement  of  necessary  sup- 
plies. Thus  the  Company  are  enabled  to  acquire  a  minute 
knowledge  of  the  country  and  the  natives ;  and  extend 
their  power  and  authority  over  both. 

Certain  gentlemen  of  the  Company  have  been  appoint- 
ed, by  act  of  Parliament,  justice^,  of  the  peace ;  who  are 
empowered  to  entertain  prosecutions  for  minor  offences, 
and  to  impose  punishment — to  arrest  and  send  to  Canada 
criminals  of  a  higher  order  for  trial ;  and  also  to  try,  and 
give  judgment  in  civil  suits,  where  tiie  amount  in  dispute 
does  not  exceed  JC200 ;  and,  in  case  of  non-payment,  to 
imprison  the  debtor,  at  their  own  forts,  or  in  the  jails  of 
Canada. 

Mr.  M'Kay,  one  of  the  principal  officers  in  charge  of 
the  Hudson's  Bay  Company's  trapping-party  in  the  Snake 
country,  is  a  gentleman  of  great  intelligence  and  natural 
astuteness,  and  also  of  good  feeling ;  and  is  quite  as  much 
at  home  in  the  prairies  and  wilderness  as  he  is  in  a  fort. 
I  recollect  a  story  related  by  him,  in  "  bachelors'  hall." 
He  was  speaking  of  a  son  of  a  Mr.  Bird,  a  gentleman 
some  years  ago  in  the  service  of  the  Company.  This 
young  Bird  (and  a  wild  bird  he  proved  to  be)  received  a 
fair  education,  and  could  converse  in  French  and  English. 

10 


•110 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


'•■, ! 


He  was  some  time  in  the  Company's  service ;  but,  finding 
the  work  too  hard  for  him,  joined  the  Blackfeet  Indians, 
and  was  made  a  cliief ;  and  he  took  several  daughters  of 
chiefs  for  his  wives,  and  became  a  man  of  some  note  and 
respect.  He  received,  amongst  the  trappers,  the  nick- 
name  of  Jemmy  Jock.  He  had  then  been  living  with 
the  Indians  twenty  years,  and  wap  much  disliked  by  the 
American  trapping-parties ;  in  fact,  it  has  been  said  that 
the  Americans  did  once  offer  five  hundred  dollars  for  his 
head,  as  they  supposed  he  had  been  a  leader  amongst  a 
tribe  of  Blackfeet  when  an  American  party  was  cut  off 
b}'  them. 

Mr.  M'Kay  said,  he  was  once  encamped  in  the  plain, 
and  imagined  that  the  Blackfeet  must  be  in  the  vicinity 
of  the  camp,  by  various  marks.  He  accordingly,  at  night, 
gave  strict  orders  to  the  Canadians  on  watch  to  keep  a 
good  look-out ;  which  they  did,  with  rifle  in  hand.  But 
this  Jemmy  Jock,  dressed  as  a  Canadian  voyageur,  ma. 
naged  to  enter  the  camp  unobserved — walked  up  to  the 
chief  man  on  watch ;  and,  addressing  him  in  Canadian. 
French,  said  that  he  had  **  received  orders  that  the  horses 
which  were  in  the  camp  should  be  turned  out  to  graze." 
The  watchman,  taking  it  for  granted  that  the  order  came 
from  M'Kay,  ordered  the  horses  to  be  let  out.  But  before 
long  the  camp  was  roused  by  the  loud  whoop  of  the 
Blackfeet :  some  of  the  horses  were  mounted ;  and  others 
driven  off^  before  the  marauding,  party  ;  the  poor  trappers 
being  left  to  make  the  best  of  their  way  through  the 
plains  as  they  could.  Sometimes  in  travelling  through 
the  plains  the  Company's  trappers  fall  in  with  a  letter, 
tied  to  a  stick,  left  by  this  humorous  half-breed,  to  an- 
nounce  that  he  has  camped  at  this  spot  with  his  party  a 
short  time  previous — sometimes  giving  them  good  in- 
formation ;  and  sometimes  intending  to  mislead,  and  play 
them  a  frolicksome  or  mischievous  trick. 

Rifle-shots, — It  is  generally  a  custom  amongst  first- 
rate  rifle-shots,  in  the  service,  to  have  a  favourite  rific. 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


Ill 


This  rifle  always  being*  practised  with,  they  are  sure  to 
hit  the  mark.  It  is  frequently  seen,  that,  by  a  g-ood 
rifleman,  a  duck's  head  is  knocked  off  at  one  hundred 
and  twenty  yards.  This  Mr,  IVriCay  is  an  excellent  shot. 
He  says  that  he  generally  shoots  the  bear  in  the  mouth, 
to  save  the  skin.  During  the  leisure  hours  in  the  summer 
months,  at  the  fort,  after  business  hours,  the  officers  often 
amuse  themselves  at  rifle-shooting  ;  and  at  eighty  yards, 
the  bull's-eye  is  seldom  missed :  and  once  or  twice  a 
week,  the  riding  horses  are  generally  brought  into  the 
fort  for  the  officers  to  recreate  themselves  with  a  ride. 

Here  we  had  an  old  and  favourite  servant,  who  was 
cook,  and  whose  name  was  Overy,  a  Canadian.  He  was 
never  more  happy  than  when  he  was  able  to  play  off  his 
pranks  with  any  of  the  sailors,  when  a  vessel  lay  in  the 
river.  At  one  time,  on  the  arrival  of  a  vessel  from 
England,  there  was  on  board  a  curious,  eccentric  old 
boatswain,  who  had,  previously  to  joining  the  Company's 
service,  been  on  board  a  man-of-war.  The  cook  and  the 
boatswain  became  very  familiar;  and  the  cook  was  in- 
vited on  board  the  vessel  to  dine  with  the  boatswain. 
The  invitation  was  accepted ;  and  the  compliment  was 
returned  on  the  Sunday  following.  Overy  not  knowing 
what  to  get  good  enough  for  his  dear  and  hospitable 
friend,  the  boatswain,  Dethought  him  of  a  dog,  which  is 
a  favourite  dish  amongst  Canadian  voyageurs.  The  old 
boatswain  ate  heartily  of  it,  as  did  the  cook.  After  he 
had  done,  the  cook  inquired  how  he  had  enjoyed  his 
dinner :  he  said  it  was  beautiful.  He  then  asked  him 
whether  he  knew  what  he  had  been  dining  on :  he  said 
he  supposed  from  a  goat.  "  Yes,"  says  the  cook,  "  you 
have  been  eating  from  a  goat  with  von  long  tail,  that 
don't  like  grass  or  heather."  "  How  is  that  ?"  inquired 
the  boatswain.  "  Vy  you  see,"  replied  the  cook,  "  it  was 
my  best  dog  you  have  dined  from."  The  old  boatswain 
stormed  and  swore  ;  and  then  ran,  as  fast  as  possible,  to 
the  vessel,  to  get  a  little  rum  to  lay  his  stomach.    He 


^ 


112 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


vowed  that  he  never  again  wished  to  dine  with  a  Canadian 
cook,  or  eat  pet  dogs. 

In  182i),  a  beautiful  brig — the  William  and  Ann — sent 
from  England  for  the  Company's  use — in  entering  the 
river,  was  driven  on  a  slioal,  between  Cape  Disappoint- 
ment  and  Point  Adams.  A  report  was  given  to  the  gen. 
tieman  in  charge  of  Fort  George  that  a  vessel  was 
wrecked  on  the  bar.  A  search  was  immediately  made ; 
and  it  was  found  that  the  report  was  true.  A  boat  was 
found  driven  on  shore :  and  the  stem  had  been  cut  as  if 
by  an  axe.  The  body  of  the  captain  alone  was  found. 
The  whole  of  the  crew  perished ;  and  it  was  generally 
supposed  that  some  of  them  had  got  on  shore,  but  were 
destroyed  by  the  Clatsop  Indians,  in  whose  possession 
were  found  numerous  articles  which  had  drifted  on  shore. 
In  fact,  they  had  a  great  quantity  of  the  cargo,  with 
several  puncheons  of  rum,  buried  under  the  sands  on  the 
beach.  The  governor  of  Fort  Vancouver  sent  down  an 
interpreter,  and  several  men,  to  endeavour  to  gain  infor- 
mation respecting  the  lost  ship ;  and  to  get  from  the 
natives  the  things  which  had  drifted  on  shore.  But  the 
natives  merely  sent  impertinent  messages,  and  an  old 
broken  paper-framed  looking-glass ;  and  told  him  to  be 
contented  with  that.  This  strengthened  the  governor's 
suspicion,  and  he  thought  part  of  the  crew  had  been 
murdered.  To  gain  the  articles  in  possession  of  the 
Indians,  he  was  obliged  to  send  a  strong  party  of  armed 
men  amongst  them;  and  drive  them  from  their  village 
into  the  woods,  before  they  could  gain  the  articles.  From 
that  hour  to  this,  the  natives  have  shrunk  from  tampering 
with  any  thing  under  the  Company's  protection. 

The  year  following,  a  splendid  brig — the  Isabella — 
commanded  by  Captain  Ryan,  shared  the  same  fate.  She 
drove  upon  the  sands :  but  the  whole  of  the  crew  were 
saved ;  and,  by  the  prompt  exertions  of  Dr.  M'Loughlin, 
and  the  ofticers  of  Fort  Vancouver,  great  part  of  the 
cargo  was  saved :  but  the  vessel  went  to  pieces ;  and  was 
drifted,  piecemeal,  to  sea. 


li^iifi^-M 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


113 


A  little  time   previous  to  my  leaving   the   country, 
Michel  Laframboise,  the   gentleman   in   charge   of  the 
trapping   parties   hunting    the    plains    near    California, 
brought  news  of  an  American  party  having  been  cut  off. 
This  party  had  left  the  Wallamette  settlement ;  and  were 
proceeding   to    California,   to    purchase    cattle.      Some 
Americans,  previous  to  this  party,  had  been  on  the  same 
route,  and  an  Indian  had  been  murdered  by  them.     But 
Indians  always  wait  for  revenge — so  did  they  in  this  in- 
stance.   The  Indians,  finding  that  this  party  consisted  of 
Americans  onZy,  thought  it  offered  them  their  long-looked- 
for  opportunity  of  revenge.    They  had,  it  was  supposed, 
been  watching  the  Americans  on  their  journey,  for  days ; 
and  knowing  that  these  had  to  cross  a  high  mountain, 
where  there  was  but  a  narrow  and  crooked  path  to  guide 
them ;  which  was  lined  by  rocks  and  bushes  on  each  side, 
selected  this  as  the  spot  of  attack.     The   path  was  so 
narrow,  that  their  horses  were  obliged  to  walk  single,  one 
after  the  other.     After  the  party  had  gone  some  distance 
up  the  mountain,  the  Indians  completely  closed  them  in, 
and  let  Hy  their  arrows  and  guns;  killing  both  horses 
and  men.    The  Americans,  having  but  little  chance  of 
defence  or  retaliation,  as  the  Indians  were  sheltered  by 
the  rocks  and  bushes,  were  slain  unresistingly.      One 
little  half-breed  boy,  named  Johnson,  after  three  arrows 
had  pierced  him,  was  in  the  act  of  firing  his  gun,  when 
a  fourth  arrow  struck  him  in  the  throat  and  killed  him. 
Two  men  only  were  saved  to  tell  the  tale. 

On  one  occasion  an  American  vessel.  Captain  Thomp- 
son, was  in  the  Columbia,  trading  furs  and  salmon.  The 
vessel  had  got  aground,  in  the  upper  part  of  the  river, 
and  the  Indians,  from  various  quarters,  mustered  with 
the  intent  of  cutting  the  Americans  off,  thinking  that 
they  had  an  opportunity  of  revenge,  and  would  thus 
escape  the  censure  of  the  Company.  Dr.  M'Loughlin, 
the  governor  of  Fort  Vancouver,  hearing  of  their  inten- 
tion, immediately  despatched  a  party  to  their  rendezvous ; 

10* 


114 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


and  informed  tliem  that  if  they  injured  one  American,  it 
would  be  just  the  same  oifence  as  if  they  had  injured  one 
of  his  servants,  and  they  would  be  treated  equally  as 
enemies.  This  stunned  them ;  and  they  relinquished 
their  purpose ;  and  all  retired  to  their  respective  homes. 
Had  not  this  come  to  the  governor's  ears  the  Americans 
must  have  perished. 

Mode  of  curing  salmon. — As  soon  as  a  cargo  of  salmon 
is  caught,  the  natives  bring  it  to  the  trading  post  in  their 
canoes.  A  number  of  Indian  women  are  employed  by 
the  trader,  seated  on  the  beach,  with  knives,  ready  to  cut 
up  the  fish.  The  salmon  are  counted  from  each  Indian, 
for  which  a  ticket  is  given  for  the  quantity,  large  or 
small.  After  the  whole  of  the  salmon  are  landed,  the 
Indians  congregate  around  the  trading  shop  for  their 
payment,  and  receive  ammunition,  baize,  tobacco,  but- 
tons, &c. 

The  women  employed  by  the  trader  commence  cutting 
out  the  backbones,  and  cut  off  the  heads  of  the  sabnon. 
They  are  then  taken  to  the  salter,  and  placed  in  a  large 
hogshead,  with  a  quantity  of  coarse  salt.  They  remain 
there  for  several  days,  until  they  become  quite  firm.  The 
pickle  produced  from  these  is  boiled  in  a  large  copper 
kettle,  and  the  blood,  which  floats  by  the  boiling  process 
to  the  top,  is  skimmed  off,  leaving  the  pickle  perfectly 
clear.  The  salmon  are  then  taken  from  the  hogshead 
and  packed  in  tierces,  with  a  little  more  salt ;  the  tierces 
are  then  headed  up,  and  laid  upon  their  bilge,  or  widest 
^art,  leaving  the  bunghole  open  ;  the  pickle  is  next  poured 
in,  until  the  tierce  becomes  full ;  a  circle  of  clay,  about 
four  inches  high,  is  then  made  round  the  bunghole,  into 
which  the  oil  from  the  salmon  rises.  This  oil  is  skimmed 
off,  and,  according  as  the  salmon  imbibes  the  pickle,  more 
pickle  is  poured  in,  so  as  to  keep  the  liquid  sufficiently 
on  the  surface,  and  afford  facility  for  skimming  off  the 
oil.  After  the  oil  ceases  to  rise  to  the  circle  round  the 
bunghole,  the  salmon  is  then  supposed  to  be  sufficiently 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


115 


prepared ;  the  clay  circle  is  cleared  away,  and  the  hole  is 
bunged  up.  Salmon,  so  cured,  will  keep  good  for  three 
years.  This,  soaked  in  a  little  water  for  a  few  hours 
previous  to  using",  is  delicious  eating;  but,  of  course, 
much  of  its  deliciousncss  depends  on  its  original  quality 
when  taken,  and  its  freshness  when  put  in  salt. 

The  dogs  arc  very  fond  of  the  raw  salmon.  The 
Indian  dogs,  which  are  a  sort  of  half-wolf  breed,  with 
sharp  nose  and  long  bushy  tail,  eat  it  with  perfect  safety ; 
but  it  is  fatal  to  English  dogs.  I  lost  three  valuable 
dogs  in  this  way,  before  I  was  aware  of  its  fatal  effects. 
They  slunk  into  the  woods,  and  pined  away  until  they 
died.  On  opening  thorn,  I  found  the  gall  bladder  as  hard 
as  a  stone. 

Tiie  Company  have  already  established  the  following 
principal  trading  forts  or  stations  within  the  limits  of  the 
territory,  independently  of  minor  and  temporary  posts, 
and  several  migratory  establishments  on  tlie  frontiers  of 
California,  and  the  country  extending  towards  tiie  con- 
fines of  the  United  States.  In  short,  it  may  be  said,  tliat 
they  have  taken  possession  of  every  district  within  the 
whole  region ;  which,  throughout  its  wild  and  rugged 
parts,  as  well  as  its  fertile  parts,  is  dotted  with  tlieir  forts 
and  establishments ;  and  they  exercise  unrestrained  trade 
and  intercourse  with  all  the  native  tribes ;  whereas  the 
Americans,  with  the  exception  of  a  few  missionary  and 
agricultural  establishments,  have  scarcely  any  possession 
or  hold  of  the  country. 

They  possess,  then,  the  following  principal  posts : — 
Fort  Vancouver,  on  the  north  bank  of  the  Columbia, 
ninety  miles  from  the  ocean,  and  in  latitude  45^^,  longi- 
tude 122°  30' ;  Fort  George  (formerly  Astoria),  near  the 
mouth  of  this  river ;  Fort  Nasqually,  on  Puget's  Sound, 
latitude  47° ;  Fort  Langley,  at  tlie  outlet  of  Frazer's 
River,  latitude  49°  25';  Fort  M'Loughlin,  on  Milbank 
Sound,  latitude  52°  ;  Fort  Simpson,  on  Dundas  Island, 
latitude  54^° ;  Frazer's  Fort,  Fort  James,  M'Lcod's  Fort, 


'i 


116 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


Chilcotin,  and  Fort  Alexandria,  on  Frazer^s  River,  and 
its  branches,  between  5P  and  54^*^  parallels  of  latitude; 
Thompson's  Fort,  on  Thompson's  River,  a  tributary  of 
Frazer's,  latitude  50° ;  Kootiana  Fort,  on  Flatbow  Rivei ; 
Flathead  Fort,  on  Flathead  River;  Fort  Hall  and  Fr/t 
Boisais,  on  the  Saptin,  or  Snake  River;  Fort  Colville, 
and  Fort  O'Kanagan,  on  the  Columbia,  above  its  junction 
with  the  Saptin ;  Fort  Percys,  or  Wallawalla,  a  few  miles 
below  the  junction;  Fort  M'Kay,  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Umqua  River,  latitude  43°  30',  and  longitude  124^  W. 

In  addition  to  these  establishments,  they  have  an  im. 
mense  number  of  boats  and  canoes,  for  trading-  on  all  the 
lakes,  and  rivers,  and  streams  of  the  interior,  by  means 
of  which  they  hold  communication  with  their  possessions 
cast  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  carry  up  the  commu- 
nication to  Hudson's  Bay,  along  a  distance  of  several 
thousand  miles.  Besides  these,  they  have  powerful 
steamers,  heavily  armed,  which  run  along  the  coast,  and 
among  its  bays  and  inlets,  for  the  double  purpose  of  com- 
merce and  protection  against  aggressions  in  those  suas. 
They  have  likewise  several  sailing  vessels  for  these  pur- 
poses,  varying  from  two  to  five  hundred  tons  burden, 
completely  armed  and  equipped,  besides  barges  for  the 
conveyance  of  goods  to  the  lower  part  of  the  river,  and 
other  craft,  daring  the  salmon  season,  for  the  conveyance 
of  supplies  to  the  fishing  stations  on  the  parts  of  the  river 
unnavigable  to  the  larger  craft. 


CHAPTER  XII. 

Wappaloo  Island  and  Wallamelle  Settlement. 

Five  miles  below  Fort  Vancouver,  and  on  the  opposite, 
or  southern  side,  there  is  an  island  called  Wappatoo 
Island.    It  lies  between  the  two  entrances  of  the  river 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


117 


B  commu- 


Wallamette,  which  Hows  into  the  Columbia,  and  is  nearly 
triangular.  Its  northern  side,  faeing  the  Columbia,  is 
about  fifteen  miles  long;  the  sidc.bounded  by  the  eastern 
branch,  or  mouth  of  tiie  Wallamette,  is  about  seven  miles 
long;  and  the  side  bounded  by  the  western  branch  of  tiiis 
river  is  about  twelve  miles.  It  derives  its  name  from  the 
great  abundance  of  an  esculent  root  called  wappatoo ;  a 
name  which  the  Indians  give  the  potato.  This  root  is 
oblong,  about  one  inch  long  and  half  an  inch  thick, 
resembling  the  lower  end  of  a  small  parsnip.  The  In- 
dians use  it  for  food ;  and  I  have  seen  Hocks  of  swans, 
which  abound  in  these  parts,  dig  it  up  with  their  bills,  as 
it  grows  only  a  few  inches  below  the  surface.  Its  taste 
resembles  tiiat  of  the  potato. 

On  this  island,  and  on  an  elevated  situation,  near  the 
point  where  the  mouths  of  the  Wallamette  branch  off. 
Captain  Wyeth,  of  Boston,  founded  a  settlement,  when 
he  commenced  his  fishing  and  fur  trading  projects ;  but 
which  has  since  been  abandoned,  with  the  abandonment 
of  his  projects.  The  vegetation  is  generally  good ;  but 
in  the  central  parts  there  are  marshes,  in  which  the  water 
rises  and  falls  with  the  tide,  and  overfiows  the  land.  It 
is  covered,  in  most  parts,  with  different  kinds  of  timber, 
but  principally  oak  and  pine.  A  few  hogs  placed  on  it  a 
lew  years  ago  by  the  Company  have  increased  to  large 
lierds,  which  subsist  on  the  wappatoo,  acorns,  &-c.,  and 
are  become  a  source  of  profit,  by  supplying  pork  for  tiie 
home  consumption,  and  for  exportation.  On  the  island 
the  Company  have  nUo  established  a  large  dairy  farm. 

The  upper,  or  eastern  mouth  of  the  Wallamette  is  about 
lialf  the  breadth  of  the  Columbia ;  the  river  itself,  which 
llows  nearly  due  north,  is  navigable  to  the  distance  of 
twenty.fi ve  miles  for  large  vessels,  and  is  studded  with 
numerous  islands,  on  wliich  the  timber  is  chiefly  oak, 
very  little  pine  (if  any)  growing  there.  The  further 
navigation  of  the  river  is  obstructed  by  rapids,  and  is 
completely  barred  by  cataracts,  or  falls,  about  a  mile 


118 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


above  the  rapids.  The  tide  ascends  as  far  as  these 
rapids,  which  can  be  passed  only  by  canoes.  Tlie  (.'ow 
country,  on  tlic  western  banks,  is  generally  high  land, 
covered  with  wood,  principally  pine,  rising  from  tho 
water  side.  The  land  on  the  eastern  side  is  undulating, 
and  admirably  calculated  for  cultivation.  The  river 
receives  many  tributaries ;  but  one  of  the  most  conside. 
rable  is  one  which  flows  from  the  cast,  and  rushes  into 
the  Wallamette  with  such  force,  just  below  the  rapids,  as 
to  create  a  heavy  and  dangerous  swell.  As  far  as  the 
rapids  the  breadth  of  the  river  is  about  five  hundred 
yards.  The  falls  consist  of  three  successive  cascades, 
in  which  the  water  is  precipitated  through  deep  gullies 
worn  into  ledges  of  black  rock,  running  in  an  irregular 
diagonal  across  the  bed  of  the  river.  The  noise  of  the 
water  is  almost  deafening,  resembling  the  roar  of  the 
loudest  thunder ;  and  the  appearance  of  the  spray,  acted 
on  by  the  sun's  rays,  is  almost  dazzling.  The  eastern 
shore,  for  some  distance  below  the  falls,  is  a  perpendicular 
cliflT,  thirty  feet  high.  On  the  top  of  this  cliff  there  is  a 
sort  of  small  plain ;  and  as  the  valley  of  the  Wallamette 
is  the  most  fertile  district  in  all  Columbia,  and  best 
calculated  for  the  production  of  corn  (since  the  country 
round  about  abounds  in  excellent  timber  of  different 
kinds)  and  as  the  falls  can  be  approached  from  above, 
as  well  as  from  below,  by  sloops,  schooners,  steamers, 
&c.,  this  small  plot  of  level  ground  on  the  precipitous 
bank  of  the  river  at  the  lowest  cascade  is  admirably 
calculated  as  a  site  for  flour  and  saw  mills.  When  I  left 
the  country  the  Company,  seeing  all  these  advantages, 
were  forming  a  raceway  at  the  falls ;  and  were  drawing 
timber  to  the  ground,  with  a  view  to  erect  some  such 
works  there.  Formerly  it  was  necessary  to  unload  at 
the  commencement  of  the  falls,  and  convey  canoes,  lug- 
gage, and  all,  over  land  to  the  other  end,  till  there  was 
deep  and  smooth  water  found  again. 

It  is  a  curious  sight  to  observe  the  salmon  ascending 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


119 


these  waterfalls.  They  seem  to  measure  the  height  and 
distance,  and  their  own  strenjfth  accurately.  They 
api)car  to  put  their  talis  in  tlicir  mouths;  and  having 
drawn  the  body  to  the  proper  curve,  and  produced  the 
necessary  tension  and  poise,  they  let  go  their  hold  and 
spring  upward,  (outside  the  descending  sheet  of  water,) 
like  an  arrow  shot  from  a  bow,  and  reach  the  next  basin 
into  which  the  water  is  precipitated.  Having  there,  as 
it  were,  taken  breath,  and  recruited  their  strength  after 
such  an  effort,  they  renew  the  attempt,  over  the  succes- 
sive cataracts,  until  they  reach  the  smooth  river  above. 
They  generally  succeed ;  some,  however,  fail,  and  get 
sadly  battered  against  the  rocks. 

A  short  distance  above  the  falls,  the  mountains  imme- 
diately rise  from  the  water's  edge,  and  are  clothed  with 
forests  of  the  largest  timber,  to  the  distance  of  about 
fifteen  miles  along  the  river  ;  and  after  that  the  country 
opens  on  both  sides  into  a  rich  level,  or  undulating  ground, 
spreading  to  a  great  extent.  This  section  of  the  river  is 
navigable  nearly  for  as  large  vessels  as  can  navigate  the 
section  below  the  falls. 

It  is  in  this  fertile  district,  near  the  banks  of  the  river, 
at  the  distance  of  about  fifty  miles  from  its  entrance  into 
the  Columbia,  that  the  Wallamette  settlement  has  been 
established. 

The  Americans  make  a  great  boast  of  this  settlement 
as  an  American  establishment ;  and  speak  of  it  in  their 
public  papers  and  speeches,  as  if  it  were  a  settlement  ex- 
clusively American,  and  founded  by  Americans,  capable 
of  being  made  the  nucleus  of  a  great  community — that 
it  is  a  most  thriving  colony — that  it  continues  the  right 
of  possession  to  the  government  of  the  States — that  it 
owes  no  favour  to,  and  is  independent  of,  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Company — that  there  it  stands,  and  will  stand,  a 
memorial  of  American  right — that  it  is  the  duty  of  the 
American  government  to  protect  it ;  while  it  holds  out 
every  incentive  to  industrious  and  enterprising  citizens 


120 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


r\ 


to  join  it.  All  this,  and  much  more,  has  been  8aid  and 
written  by  gasconading  traders  on  the  passions  and  weak- 
ncss  of  the  populace,  about  this  vaunted  establishment : 
and  has  been  believed.  It  is  not  very  surprising  that 
any  extravagant  story,  which  flattered  the  vanity,  or  ex- 
cited  the  hopes  or  tlie  cupidity  of  such  a  people  as  the 
Americans,  should  gain  credence  in  the  States ;  espe. 
cially  if  it  be  seasoned  with  bitterness  against  the 
*♦  Britishers."  Much  of  this  misrepresentation  and  ex- 
aggerating  nonsense  has  been  believed  too  in  England ; 
simply  because  the  public  could  not  imagine  that  state* 
ments  so  pertinaciously  reiterated  could  be  without,  at 
least,  some  foundation ;  and  because  no  attempts  were 
made  by  those  acquainted  with  the  real  state  of  the  case 
to  disabuse  the  British  public  of  their  misconception,  on 
this,  and  other  points  of  importance  ;  such  as  the  right  of 
possession. 

The  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  who  had  the  best  means 
of  refuting  the  statements  of  the  United  States'  writers, 
evidently  despised  and  disregarded  those  statements. 
They  were  content,  not  only  with  the  possession  of  the 
country,  as  the  chief  partners^  and  with  the  almost  ex- 
clusive enjoyment  of  its  trade ;  but  rested  on  the  con. 
Bciousness  of  their  just,  moral,  and  judicious  conduct  as 
traders,  and  occupiers  under  their  right  of  imperial 
tenure  :  and  they  fairly  and  naturally  concluded  that  it 
would  tend  to  throw  a  doubt  on  the  justice  of  their  claim, 
if  they  were  to  enter  into  a  controversy  about  it.  Their 
claim  they  considered  to  be  undeniably  just ;  and  its  vin- 
dication to  be  the  duty  of  the  legislature  alone. 

Now  the  plain  history  of  the  origin  and  progress  of 
this  settlement  is  simply  this. 

About  seventeen  or  eighteen  years  ago,  when  the  set- 
tlement at  Vancouver,  as  the  western  head-quarters  of 
the  Company,  acquired  a  distinguished  and  very  promi- 
nent position,  and  became  the  rallying -point  for  all  the 
servants  of  the  Company  far  and  near :  when  the  sur- 


iSi 


m 


OREGON  T7RRIT0RT. 


191 


rouiulinjT  country  became  well  fxplorcd  ;  when,  from  the 
lonjLf  and  undisputed  possession  of  it  by  the  Company,  it 
hejjan  to  be  considered  by  tlic  Conipany'n  ^t-rvants  as 
British  land — British,  too,  as  to  its  cliniatr,  and  the  capa- 
bilities of  the  soil — some  of  th^  (/onipany'»»  servants, 
when  they  had  determined  to  enjoy  the  tranquillity  of 
independent  retirement  after  their  long  and  arduous  ser- 
vices, fixed  on  the  banks  of  the  Wallamette  as  their  last 
place  of  residence ;  rather  than  return  to  Canada,  or 
Scotland,  or  England,  from  which  they  were  weaned  by 
long  absence.  The  Company  gave  every  encouragement 
for  the  formation  of  a  settlement,  giving  them  stock,  &c., 
to  start  with. 

By  and  by,  some  of  the  Company's  officers  (I  may 
especially  mention  one — Mr,  M'Kay,  the  well-known  and 
meritorious  director  of  the  Rocky  Mountain  trapping 
parties)  thought  this  commencement  afforded  a  fair 
opportunity  of  becoming  settlers,  consecutively  with  the 
retention  of  their  connexion  with  the  Company,  and  they 
opened  farms  there.  The  speculation  went  on  thrivingly : 
and  the  opinion  spread  abroad,  even  to  the  United  States, 
through  means  of  the  American  free-trappers,  that  a 
rising  colony  would  be  soon  established  in  that  locality  ; 
and  that  the  success  of  this,  under  such  powerful  auspices 
as  those  of  the  Company,  would  gradually  lead  to  the 
colonization  of  the  whole  lower  region,  where  it  was 
capable  of  colonization.  This  impression  the  Company's 
chief  officers  did  not  attempt  to  remove.  They,  on  the 
contrary,  rather  wished  to  afford  every  encouragement 
and  facility  for  the  progress  of  improvement  and  civiliza. 
tion. 

The  Americans,  who  had  already  made  many  attempts 
to  effect  a  lodgment  in  the  country,  but  on  every  occasion 
failed^  either  from  their  want  of  skill,  or  of  capital,  or  of 
integrity  in  their  dealings  with  the  natives — whether 
they  attempted  fur  trading  companies  or  fishing  com- 
panies— having  now  seen  that  a  fair  opportunity  of  se- 
ll      . 


122 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


curing  a  possession  was  opened  to  them  under  the  Com- 
pany's  shelter,  bethought  them  of  despatching  mission- 
aries, with  the  ostensibly  benevolent  and  Christian  view 
of  giving  religious  culture  to  the  rude,  and  ill-educated 
ffcrvants  of  the  Company,  and  the  denizens  of  this  grow- 
ing  little  community. 

A  few  missionaries  did  arrive :  and  they,  as  was  be- 
coming  their  professed  purpose,  received  every  encourage, 
ment  and  favour  from  the  governor  of  Fort  Vancouver — 
Dr.  M'Loughlin ;  and,  as  became  their  true  purpose, 
commenced  resident  farmers — teaching,  it  is  true,  the 
natives  the  great  elements  of  Christianity,  and  forms  of 
prayer — but  using  their  gratuitous  labour  for  the  cultiva- 
tion of  their  fields.  These  missionaries  did  not  "  hide 
their  lamp  under  a  bushel,"  but,  on  the  contrary,  "  pro- 
claimed  their  light  before  all  men,"  and  sent  to  the  States 
flattering  accounts  of  their  success.  The  consequence 
was,  that  some  adventurers.,  with  a  little  property,  were 
induced  to  brave  the  perils  of  the  long  and  formidable 
journey  (leaving  millions  of  more  fertile  acres  at  home, 
requiring  less  capital  and  labour  for  cultivation)  to  the 
Oregon.  Some  of  these  settlers  came  in  their  real  cha- 
racter  of  farmers,  but  they  were  very  few.  Others  came 
in  the  guise  of  missionaries — such  missionaries  as  their 
predecessors — men  who  give  a  little  preaching  as  an 
equivalent  for  much  bodily  labour  performed  by  the 
native  converts.  Some  of  these  have  located  themselves 
in  other  districts :  and  hence  there  are,  by  American 
writers,  given  the  most  pompous  accounts — accounts,  to 
those  who  are  acquainted  with  the  real  facts,  sometimes 
laughable,  and  sometimes  calculated  to  excite  indignation 
and  disgust — of  American  settlements. 

While  I  was  stationed  at  Vancouver,  and  in  the  de- 
tached forts,  and  in  the  trading  ships,  the  excessively 
benevolent  encouragement  granted  by  the  governor  to 
the  new  importation  of  American  residents,  under  the 
designation  of  missionary-settlers,  used  to  be  freely  dis- 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


123 


cussed.  There  were  two  parties — the  patriot^  and  the 
liberal.  The  arguments,  pro  and  con^  may  be  summed 
up  thus :  the  British,  or  patriots,  maintained  that  the 
jrovernor  was  too  chivalrously  generous — that  his  gene- 
rosity was  thrown  away,  and  would  be  badly  requited — 
that  he  was  nurturing  a  race  of  men  who  would  by-and- 
by  rise  from  their  meek  and  humble  position  as  the 
grateful  ackriowledgers  of  his  kindness,  in^^o  the  bold 
attitude  of  questioners  of  his  own  authority,  and  the 
British  right  to  Vancouver  itself.  This  party  grounded 
their  argumenis  on  an  appeal  to  the  conduct  and  cha- 
racter of  the  Americans  whom  they  had  seen — especially 
the  free-trappers,  and  the  remnants  of  the  American 
companies  which  still  dodged  about  in  the  country. 
They  did  too  take  into  account  the  missionaries,  who 
were  then  tried,  and  who,  of  course,  did  every  thing  in 
their  power  to  conciliate,  at  their  first  appearance  on 
such  a  new  stage,  the  good  opinion  of  those  whose  ap- 
plause or  condemnation  could  retain,  or  expel  them  from 
the  scene  of  their  labours,  and  prospects.  This  party 
had  a  very  lively  feeling  for  the  improvement  of  the  In- 
dians in  all  the  arts  of  civilization,  and  thought  that  if 
any  attempts  were  made  for  the  conversion  of  the  natives 
to  Christianity,  and  to  their  adoption  of  more  humanized 
institutions  (which  they  limited  to  British  institutions), 
a  solid  and  permanent  foundation  should  be  laid — the 
Indians  should  not  be  instructed  by  halves — a  thoroughly 
lasting  system  should  be  adopted  towards  them ;  which 
would  make  them  not  merely  professed,  but  practical 
Christians.  Something  more  than  making  them  the  ob- 
servers of  forms,  and  the  repeaters  of  prayers,  was  requi- 
site, especially  as  most  of  the  tribes  already  believed  in 
many  of  the  great  cardinal  points  of  Christianity — such 
as  the  existence  of  a  good  and  evil  S^jlrit — the  creation 
of  the  world  by  the  Good  Spirit — the  immortality  of  the 
soul — a  future  state  of  rewards  and  punishments.  They 
also  maintained  that  the  missionaries  should  be  mission- 


124 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


:ll 


arics  in  reality — men  looking  to  the  successful  tcrminn- 
tion  of  their  labours  as  their  principal  reward — nun 
above  the  imputation  or  suspicion  of  bring  jruided  by 
self-interest,  in  their  exertions — men  who  v/ould  not 
squaty  as  permanent  and  fixed  husbandmen,  and  occa. 
sional  traffickers  in  skins  of  animals,  among  the  natives, 
using  them  as  farm-labourers;  but  tiiat  they  siiould  be 
bona  fide  pastors  of  the  C'iiristian  ciuu'ch — going  about  in 
the  true  spirit  of  primitive  Christianity — instructing  tiie 
people  in  the  cardinal  doctrines  of  our  religion,  and  in 
the  arts  of  civilized  life.  Furthermore,  they  used  to 
maintain,  tiiat,  if  missionaries  at  all  were  to  be  intro- 
duced,  or  sanctioned  in  the  country,  this  useful  class  of 
men — a  class  calculated  to  exercise  such  vital  influence 
over  the  character  and  condition  of  tlic  natives — should 
come  within  tlie  direct  control  of  the  dominant  power, 
I.  c,  the  Britisii  power,  and  should  be  the  countrymen  of 
those  who  absolutely  occupied  Oregon.  Besides,  they 
used  occasionally  to  launch  out  against  the  character  and 
institutions  of  the  Americans  generally,  saying  that, 
while  they  proclaimed  liberty,  they  practised  slavery,  in 
some  of  its  most  odious  forms,  not  as  individuals  merely, 
but  tiiat  whole  States  adopted  and  defended  the  practice 
— that  it  was  then  a  fraud  and  a  mockery  for  Americans 
to  profess  any  anxiety  for  the  amelioration  of  the  Indians, 
since  at  home  they  enslaved  and  hunted  tliem  down, 
keeping  them  in  irredeemable  bondage  in  the  southern 
states,  and  driving  those  who  still  retained  their  freedom, 
in  the  north,  and  northwest,  to  the  hills  and  deserts  east 
of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  They  also  used  to  urge  tlie 
strong  facts  of  the  repciited  failures  of  the  Americans  to 
secure  any  extensive  possession  in  the  country,  and  of  the 
general  repugnance  of  the  natives  to  them — repugnance 
caused  by  the  experience  which  the  natives  had  of  th(;ir 
habits  and  principles — men  who  had  no  scruple  about  the 
means  o{  making  money,  and  who  would,  at  the  caprice 
of  the  moment,  hang  up  an  obnoxious  individual,  without 
judge  or  jury,  by  their  Lynch,,  or  mob  law. 


OREOOV  TERniTORY. 


125 


The  other  party,  which  wns  called  the  philosophical 
and  the  liberal  party,  did  not  contravene  tiiesc  jfoncral 
heads  of  ar/rimient.  They  admitted  that  the  Americans, 
not  only  as  individuals,  but  in  communities  of  whole 
States,  were  not  exempt  from  the  charg-e  of  fraudulcncy 
and  tyranny ;  inasmuch  as  the  Southern  States  arc 
slaveholders,  and  some  of  the  wealthiest  States  openly 
refuse  to  pay  their  debts,  thoug-h  no  people  treat  their 
own  debtor-prisoners  more  cruelly  : — that  the  half-aimsto- 
lical,  and  half-agricultural  character  of  the  missionaries, 
was  not  that  best  adapted  to  the  purpose  and  spirit  of 
men  going-  abroad  to  enlighten  the  heathen ; — that  the 
Americans  failed  to  secure  a  permanent  footing  as  traders 
in  the  country,  from  the  dishonesty  of  their  dealings,  and 
their  habit  of  domineering  over  the  Indians,  and  corrupt- 
ing them.  But  still  they  asserted  that  the  Americans 
ought  not  to  be  excluded,  inasmuch  as  they  possessed 
some  claims  to  the  right  of  occupancy — claims,  though 
feeble,  still  existing — and,  until  these  were  quashed  or 
confirmed,  it  would  be  unjust,  and  impolitic,  to  exclude 
tJiem  from  all  possession.  The  Americans  were,  it  was 
true,  they  admitted,  holders  of  slaves  at  home,  and  were 
every  day  driving  the  Indians  from  their  native  lands ; 
and,  though  hypocrites,  as  to  professions  of  freedom,  on 
that  account,  yet  they  could  not  enslave  the  Indians  of 
Oregon,  or  drive  them  further  off,  when  there  was  British 
power  to  check  them.  '     ' 

Though  the  missionaries  wore  not  of  the  best  class,  yet 
they  were  better  than  none  at  all ;  especially  when  Eng- 
land so  grossly  neglected  the  natives.  Dr.  M*Loughlin 
may  have  acted  indiscreetly,  but  he  acted  justly,  in  sanc- 
tioning- these  emigrants.  He  could  not  lay  an  interdict 
on  their  arrival ;  and  even  should  they  turn  out  as  bad  as 
the  rest  of  the  motley  groups  that  came  from  the  States, 
the  British  residents  could  not  be  disappointed.  But, 
above  all,  good  would  grow  out  of  evil  in  the  end  ;  for  the 
Americans,  by  their  intercourse  with  the  British,  would 

11* 


12fi 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


l;'' 

1 

'i; 

■1 

become  more  humanized,  tolerant,  and  honest.  Hcnce^ 
they  said,  it  was  philosophical  and  liberal  to  encourage 
the  American  missionary  squatters.  And  as  to  the  Ame- 
rican Lynch  law,  and  other  usuages  which  were  repug- 
nant to  justice  and  Jiumanity,  they  were  rather  exceptions 
to  the  American  code,  than  examples  of  American  prin- 
ciples of  legislation,  which,  in  commercial  and  civil  mat. 
ters,  was,  generally  speaking,  just  and  humane ;  and 
from  which  even  British  legislation  derived  some  useful 
hints. 

These  debates,  which  embraced  various  other  points, 
too  numerous  to  detail,  would  sometimes  run  high ;  and 
show  a  great  deal  of  acuteness  and  general  knowledge, — 
more  than  would  be  expected  from  men  who  had  spent 
most  of  their  time  in  the  v/ilderness,  and  in  communion 
with  savages.  The  Canadians  and  half-breeds  generally 
sided  with  the  British,  or  patriot  party,  and  turned  the 
scale.  But  I  must  confess,  that  thougii,  on  the  whole 
range  of  dispute,  the  patriot  party  were  the  victors,  yet, 
on  one  point,  their  antagonists  had  a  clear  advantage — 
the  neglect  of  the  conversion  and  civilization  of  the 
natives  on  the  part  of  the  home-government  and  of  the 
British  and  Foreign  Missionary  Society.  But  this  sub- 
ject is  more  fully  treated  in  another  place. 

The  residents  of  this  settlement  of  Wallamette  arc  a 
mixed  and  motley  group — retired  servants  of  the  Com- 
pany— America.!  missionary-farmers — some  few  Ameri- 
can farmers,  not  missionaries ;  and  free  trappers,  who 
preferred  an  easy  location  on  this  district,  to  the  exciting 
and  desperate  perils  of  solitary  wanderings  amid  the  hills 
and  deserts,  and  to  occasional  residence  among  the  sa- 
vages :  several  of  tiiese  latter  have  squatted  there  with 
their  Indian  wives  and  children.  The  residences  show 
different  degrees  of  comfort,  according  to  the  property, 
the  intelligence,  and  industry  of  the  occupiers ;  from  the 
rude  log-structure,  of  fifteen  or  twenty  feet  square,  with 
the  mud-chimney — a  wooden  bench  in  place  of  chairs — a 


OftEGON  TERRITORY. 


127 


bedstead  covered  with  flag-mats — a  lew  pots,  and  other 
tnfiinfr  articles,  to  tlic  large,  tolerably  well-built,  and 
oquiiiped  fanii-lioiise ;  in  which  tlie  owners  enjoy,  in 
rude  plenty,  the  produce  of  tolerably  well-tilled,  and  well- 
stocked  farms.  Tliese  spots  of  cultivated  land,  of  course, 
vary  in  extent  and  quality  of  culture  according  to  the 
skill  and  resources  of  the  owners.  Some  farms  consist 
of  not  more  than  thirty  acres ;  some  consist  of  one  hun- 
dred. The  best  appointed  farms  are  those  of  the  Com- 
pany's servants.  Mr.  M'Kay,  who  has  farmed  under  the 
(.'ompany's  sanction,  has  lately  erected  a  grist-mill,  the 
expense  of  which  is  reported  to  be  not  less  than  JC2000. 
These  dwellings  do  not,  properly  speaking,  constitute  a 
village,  but  are  scattered  over  a  surface  of  several  miles : 
though  some  few  are  clustered  together.  Most  of  the 
missionaries  are  Episcopalian  Methodists.  But  half  the 
civilized  population,  if  not  more,  are  Roman  Catholics, 
who  have  their  own  priest  and  their  own  chapel. 

TliG  colon}'  has  all  the  appurtenances  of  a  settlement — 
i!chool-houses — chapels — an  hospital — a  meeting-house — 
granaries,  &,c.  But  though  there  is  a  considerable  ex- 
tent of  laud  under  cultivation,  yet  the  whole  is  not  per- 
haps more  extensive  than  the  Company's  single  farm  at 
Vancouver ;  and  in  point  of  management,  and  approxi- 
mation  to  true  farming  (according  to  English  principles 
and  notions),  cannot  be  even  remotely  compared  to  it. 

Lieutenant  Wilkes,  who  conducted  the  Exploring 
Expedition  appointed  by  the  American  government,  vi- 
sited this  settlement;  and  in  his  report,  lately  published 
by  authority,  says, — "  About  sixty  families  are  settled 
tliere,  the  industrious  of  whom  appear  to  be  thriving. 
They  are  composed  of  American  missionaries,  trappers, 
and  Canadians,  who  were  formerly  servants  of  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company.  All  of  them  appeared  to  be 
doing  well ;  but  I  was,  on  the  whole,  disappointed  from 
the  reports  which  had  been  made  to  me,  not  to  find  the 


128 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


settlement  in  a  j^reater  state  of  forwardness,  considcrinjr 
the  advantag"cs  which  the  missionaries  have  had." 

Now  this  account  of  the  settJcment  deserves  to  be  no- 
ticed. He  says  that  the  number  of  families  settled  there 
was  sixty — not  more.  Of  these,  many  were  British  sub. 
jects ;  so  that  the  number  of  subjects  of  the  United  States 
was  inconsiderable.  The  American  missionaries  were 
merely  speculating  small  farmers.  All  were  not  thriving ; 
but  only  the  industrious  portion.  This,  together  with  his 
mention  of  disappointment j  and  of  the  reports  made  to 
him,  clearly  shows  that  there  were  circulated  in  the 
States,  exaggerated  accounts  of  the  prosperity  and  im- 
portance  of  the  colony ;  and  false  inducements  held  out 
to  citizens,  to  emigrate  thither ;  and  to  the  Federal  go- 
vernment, to  sustain  its  rights  even  at  the  risk  of  a 
quarrel  with  Great  Britain,  in  defence  of  this  fancied 
American  colony — rights  which  were  not,  and  are  not, 
invaded ;  and  are  not  meant  to  be  invaded  by  the  Com- 
pany. This  admission,  too,  which  is  involved  in  his  ac- 
count,  is  the  more  worthy  of  notice,  considering  the  dis- 
position which  this  gentleman  shows,  to  represent  to  his 
government  the  Oregon  territory  as  a  prize,  even  in  an 
agricultural  point  of  view,  worth  contending  for ;  as 
appears  from  the  extravagance  of  his  general  picture,  in 
his  summing  up.     He  says  : — 

"  To  conclude ;  few  portions  of  the  globe,  in  my  opi- 
nion, are  so  rich  in  soil,  so  diversified  in  surface,  or  so 
capable  of  being  rendered  the  happy  home  of  an  industri- 
ous and  civilized  community.  For  beauty  of  scenery, 
and  salubrity  of  climate,  it  cannot  be  surpassed.  It  is 
peculiarly  adapted  for  an  agricultural  and  pastoral  people  : 
and  no  portion  of  the  world,  beyond  the  tropics,  can  be 
found  that  will  yield  so  readily,  with  moderate  labour,  to 
the  wants  of  man." 

All  this  he  asserts,  although  it  appears  from  his  whole 
previous  statement,  that  from  the  nature  of  the  soil  and 
climate,  he  considered  at  least  one  half  of  the  territory 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


129 


unfit  for  agriculture.  With  respect  to  the  entire  of  the 
eastern  section,  he  says,  "  Tlie  temperature  during  the 
day,  differing  from  50^  to  60°,  renders  it  unfit  for  agri. 
culture;  and  there  are  but  few  places  in  its  northern 
parts,  where  the  climate  would  not  effectually  put  a  stop 
to  its  ever  becoming  settled.  In  each  day,  according  to 
the  best  accounts,  all  the  changes  are  experienced,  which 
arc  incident  to  spring,  summer,  autumn,  and  winter. 
Tlicre  are  places  where  small  farms  might  be  located, 
but  they  are  few  in  number." 

Mr.  Farnham,  tlie  latest  American  writer,  though  an 
undisguised  partisan — a  rampant  anti-Britisher  —  and 
anxious  to  place  the  capabilities  and  value  of  the  country 
in  the  most  favourable  view  before  his  fellow-citizens, 
cannot  avoid  dissenting  irom  Mr.  Wilkes's  concluding 
remarks.  He  says,  "  It  will  be  seen  on  reference  to 
ihem,  that  the  agricultural  capabilities  of  Oregon  are 
placed  above  those  of  any  part  of  the  world,  beyond  the 
tropics.  This  is  a  most  surprising  conclusion — at  war 
with  his  own  account  of  the  several  sections  which  he 
visited;  and  denied  by  every  intelligent  man  living  in 
the  country.  What !  Oregon  in  this  respect  equal  to  Ca- 
hfornia,  or  the  Valley  of  the  Mississippi  I" 

I  beg  to  quote  from  Mr.  Farnham,  who  visited  this  set- 
tlement, tlie  following  passage.  Alluding  to  the  mis- 
sionaries, he  says,  "  their  object  in  settling  in  Oregon,  I 
understood  to  be  twofold — the  one,  and  principal,  to  civi- 
hzc  and  Christianize  the  Indians — the  otlier,  and  not  less 
important,  the  establishment  of  religious  and  literary  in- 
stitutions^ Jor  the  benefit  of  the  white  emigrants.  Their 
plan  of  operation  on  the  Indians,  is  to  learn  their  various 
languages,  for  the  purpose  of  itinerant  preaching,  and  of 
teaching  tlie  young  the  English  language.  The  scholars 
are  also  instructed  in  agriculture,  the  regulations  of  a 
well-established  household,  reading,  writing,  arithmetic, 
and  geography." 

Then  it  appears,  these  missionaries  were  encouraged 


130 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


to  settle  in  the  country,  in  order  tliat  they  may  open  the 
way,  and  hold  out  inducements,  for  an  influx  of  enii. 
grants  from  the  States.  No  doubt  their  published  pros, 
pectus  of  benefits  to  come  is  higlily  imposinj^; ;  and  tlicir 
promised  zeal  and  efficiency  arc  very  g-reat,  until  they 
come  to  be  tested  :  but  the  ibllowing"  passage  brings  down 
their  disinterestedness,  as  disseminators  of  n^ligion,  and 
their  prosperity  as  an  agricultural  community,  to  a  low 
standard. 

"  They  have  many  hundred  acres  of  land  under  the 
plough;  and  cultivated  chiefly  by  the  native  pupils. 
They  have  more  than  a  hundred  head  of  horned  cattle ; 
thirty  or  forty  horses ;  and  many  swine.  They  have 
granaries  filled  with  wheat,  oats,  barley,  and  peas ;  and 
cellars  well  stored  with  vegetables." 

This  shows,  that  from  their  using  the  native  pupils  as 
labourers,  they  did  not  mean  to  dispense  their  blessings 
without  receiving  a  little  consideration — that  they  are  not 
altogether  spiritual  in  their  motives,  and  mode  of  life : 
and  their  many  hundred  acres  of  land  under  the  plough ; 
their  maximum  stock  of  horned  cattle;  and  thirty  or 
forty  horses,  are  no  great  signs  of  their  rising  greatness ; 
especially  when  it  is  considered  that  they  have  been  now 
located  for  many  years  in  the  country ;  and  had,  as  Mr. 
Wilkes — the  organ  of  the  federal  government — assures 
us,  »'  many  advantages" — which  means,  that  they  re- 
ceived all  American  support,  especially  from  the  funds  of 
the  missionary  society  of  Boston,  in  order  to  effect  Ame- 
rican  purposes. 

It  is  well  worth  while  to  quote  here  Mr.  Wilkes.  Un- 
der the  general  head  of  "  Missionaries'^  (and  he  indeed 
weighs  in  the  balance  the  entire  class — not  those  of  the 
Wallamette  settlement  alone,  but  those  too  scattered 
about  in  other  localities),  he  says,  »'  Little  has  as  yet 
been  effected  by  them  in  Christianizing  the  natives. 
They  are  principally  engaged  in  tlie  cultivation  of  the 
mission  farms,  and  in  the  care  of  their  own  stock ;  in 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


131 


order  to  obtain  flocks  and  herds  for  themselves.  As  fur 
as  my  observation  went,  in  the  parts  of  tlie  country 
where  the  missionaries  reside,  there  are  few  Indians  to 
enjjage  their  attention ;  and  they  seemed  more  occupied 
with  the  settlement  of  the  country,  and  in  agricultural 
pursuits,  than  in  missionary  labours." 

Every  word  of  this  is  undeniably  true :  and  not  the 
least  remarkable  and  important  part  of  the  statement  is 
the  accident  Ojuery,  fortuitous  ?)  of  their  having  selected 
localities  for  residence,  where  they  had  no  spiritual  flocks 
to  tend. 

But  though  they  have  not  as  yet  thriven  as  well  as 
Mr.  Wilkes  expected,  yet  Mr.  Farnham,  in  the  following 
paragraph,  threatens  the  execution  of  great  projects;  and 
holds  out  the  hope  that  they  will,  by  and  by,  erect  a  com- 
munity, with  all  the  concomitant  institutions,  worthy  of 
the  mother  republic.  It  is  true,  the  paragraph,  from  its 
boast  and  magniloquence,  will  appear,  to  sober  English- 
men, ridiculous ;  but  it  is  quite  characteristic ;  and  is 
well  calculated  to  foster  the  pleasing  and  voluntary  delu- 
sion of  American  vanity — the  purpose  for  which  it  was 
designed. 

"  A  site  had  been  already  selected  for  an  academical 
building.  A  court  of  Justice  had  been  organized  by  the 
popular  voice.  A  military  corps  was  about  to  be  formed 
for  the  protection  of  settlers — and  other  measures  were 
in  progress :  at  once  showing  that  the  American,  w4th 
his  characteristic  energy  and  enterprise ;  and  the  philan- 
thropist, with  his  holy  aspirations  for  the  improvement  of 
the  human  condition — had  crossed  the  snowy  barrier  of 
the  mountain ;  to  mingle  with  the  dashing  waves  of  the 
Pacific  seas,  the  sweet  music  of  a  busy  and  virtuous  civi- 
lization" !  !  ! 

He  then  gives  a  sketch  of  the  plucky  patriotism  of  the 
settlers : — 

"  During  my  stay  here,  several  American  citizens 
called  on  me,  to  talk  of  their  father-land  ;  and  inquire  as 


132 


OREGON  TERRITORT. 


\  m 


to  the  probability  that  its  laws  would  be  extended  over 
them.  The  constantly-repeated  inquiries  were,  *  why  aro 
wo  left  without  protection  in  this  part  of  our  country's 
dominion  ? — why  arc  foreigners  to  domineer  over  Ameri- 
can citizens — drive  their  traders  from  the  country — and 
make  us  as  dependent  on  them  for  the  clothes  we  wear, 
as  their  own  apprenticed  slaves  ?'  I  could  return  no  an- 
Bwer  to  these  questions,  exculpatory  of  this  national  de- 
linquency ;  and  therefore  advised  them  to  embody  their 
grievances  in  a  petition  to  Congress.  They  had  a  meet- 
ing for  that  purpose :  and  afterwards  put  into  my  hand  a 
petition,  signed  by  sixty-seven  citizens  of  the  United 
States,  and  persons  desirous  of  becoming  such — the  sub- 
stance  of  which  was  a  description  of  the  country — their 
unprotected  situation — and,  in  conclusion,  a  prayer  that 
the  Federal  government  would  extend  over  them  the  pro- 
tection and  institutions  of  the  republic.  Five  or  six  of 
the  settlers  had  not  an  opportunity  to  sign  the  paper. 
The  Catholic  priest  refused  to  do  it." 

Setting  aside  the  silly  abusiveness,  and  anti-British 
animus  evinced  in  the  whole  paragraph,  and  especially  in 
the  application  of  the  epithet  slaves  to  the  i  j  prentices 
and  agents  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  the  reader 
cannot  fail  to  observe  the  important  fact,  that,  notwith- 
standing all  the  zeal  of  the  settlers  and  of  Mr.  Farnham, 
and  all  the  efforts  to  make  a  demonstration,  the  peti- 
tioners to  Congress  were  not  more  than  sixty-seven — edu- 
cated and  uneducated — civilized,  half-breeds,  and  wild 
trappers,  with  their  Indian  wives.  Even  all  these  were 
not  citizens,  but  embraced  "persons  desirous  of  becoming 
such."  How  many  the  latter  class  consisted  of  he  does 
not  say.  If  the  number  was  at  all  important  he  would 
not  fail  to  mention  it.  But  suppose  these  were  all  Ame- 
ricans ;  add  to  them  the  five  or  six  settlers  who  had  no 
opportunity  of  signing  this  petition,  and  who,  it  is  fair  to 
presume,  were  Americans,  yet  the  aggregate  could  not 
exceed  eighty  souls.    Now  as  this  petition  was  evidently 


'immu-.  •'•■: 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


133 


ese  were 


a  trot  up  affair  (for  this  pfcntlcrn.in  went  to  the  settlement 
with  American  colours  (lyinj^f — there  were  iiarhinirers  to 
herald  his  arrival,  as  a  jjfrcat  AmerifNui  writer  and  cham. 
pion,  visiting-  them  in  order  to  ins[)(>et  their  condition, 
and  improve  it),  it  is  to  be  regretted  tliat  he  did  not  give 
us  an  assurance  whether  the  sixty-seven  names  were  the 
bona  fide  names  of  persons  come  to  the  ag(^  of*  discretion; 
no  matter  wheth(T  the  petitioners  could  write  their  own 
names  or  not.  Hut  let  it  be  conceded,  that  every  one  of 
the  sixty-seven  was  a  full  grown  man,  of  niaturc  under- 
standing-, wishing  to  letain  the  privileges  of  citizenship, 
and  receive  the  exclusive  protection  of  the  Federal  go- 
vernment ;  yd  the  whole  matter  is  a  clear  admission  of 
the  insignificance  of  the  settlement  (so  far  as  its  Ameri- 
canism is  concerned),  and  of  the  fillacious  representa- 
tions industriously  propagated  about  it,  with  the  view  of 
giving  factitious  importance  to  American  rights  and 
American  possession.  He  says  the  Catholic  priest  re- 
fused to  sign  the  petition.  No  doubt  he  did  ;  and  pru- 
dently too ;  for  he  knew  well,  that  he  was  sufficiently  free 
and  secure  already ;  and  that  it  w^ould  not  be  clearsight- 
edness to  surrender  the  steady  light  and  certainty  of  Bri- 
tish freedom  and  protection,  for  the  will-o'-the-wisp  of 
expected  American  licentiousness. 

Now  Mr.  Wilkes  gives  a  quietus  to  all  tlicsc  lamenta- 
tions about  the  absence  of  republican  laws  and  federal 
protection,  in  these  plain  terms:  "When  there,  I  made 
particular  inquiries  whether  laws  were  necessary  for 
their  protection  :  and  I  feel  assured  that  they  require 
none  at  present,  besides  the  moral  code  whicii  it  is  their 
own  duty  to  inculcate."  He  next  adds,  "  Tlic  Catholic 
portion  of  the  settlement  are  kept  under  good  control  by 
their  priest."  This  little  paragraph  is  doubly  significant, 
as  showing  the  reason  why  the  priest  did  not  consider 
that  his  flock  required  these  American  laws  and  institu- 
tions, and   showing  the   marked   contrast   between   the 

12 


I 


i      I- 


134 


Or.EUON  TERRITORV. 


priest,  who  effected  much  for  his  congregation,  and  tlio 
Methodist  missionaries,  who  effected  but  little. 

But  Mr.  Farnham  is  somewhat  inconsistent  with  him- 
self, as  men  generally  arc  who  become  partisans — take  a 
distorted  view  of  things — and  labour  only  to  carry  a 
point,  and  bespatter  their  adversaries.  Afler  his  claborau 
eulogy  of  the  noble  objects  and  successful  labours  of  tlit; 
missionaries,  in  improving  the  moral  condition  of  the 
natives  ;  and  after  holding  forth  glowing  prospects  of  the 
rising  greatness  of  the  settlement, — in  as  much  as  they 
had  already  selected  a  site  for  an  academical  building — 
organized  a  court  of  justice — were  about  to  form  a  mili- 
tary corps,  for  the  protection  of  the  settlers;  and  afler 
his  talking  so  poetically  about  the  American  ^*  enterpriser 
and  philanthropist  mingling  the  dashing  waves  of  the 
Pacific  seas,  with  the  sweet  music  of  busy  and  virtuous  civi- 
lization ;"  after  all  this,  he  descends  rather  awkwardly  and 
suddenly  from  his  high  position,  and,  in  plain  terms,  says : 

"The  civil  condition  of  the  territory  being  such  as 
virtually  to  prohibit  the  emigration,  to  any  -xtent,  of 
useful  and  desirable  citizens,  they  have  nothing  to  an- 
ticipate from  any  considerable  increase  of  their  numbers, 
nor  any  amelioration  of  their  state  to  look  for,  from  the 
accession  of  female  society.  In  the  desperation  incident 
to  their  lonely  lot,  they  take  wives  from  the  Indian  tribes 
around  them." 

Then  if  there  is  likely  to  be  no  extensive  emigration  of 
useful  and  desirable  citizens,  there  cannot  be  much  of  the 
sweet  music  of  a  busy  and  virtuous  civilization,  and  no 
great  need  of  academical  buildings,  and  a  military  corps 
for  the  protection  of  settlers ;  though  there  may  be  for  a 
court  of  justice,  as  the  settlers,  it  would  appear,  from  the 
absence  of  useful  and  desirable  citizens,  must  be  a  class 
among  whom  such  an  establishment  would  be  desirable, 
The  present  settlers  are  useful  and  desirable  citizens,  or 
they  are  not.   If  they  are,  why  may  there  not  be  an  aeces- 


ORP>  o.f  TERRITORY. 


135 


'iion  to  their  numbore  from  the  States  ?  If  tlicy  arc  not, 
what  is  the  use  of  tii  boasted  missionaries?  Why  do 
not  these  men  labour  lo  render  tliein  useful  and  moral? 

lie  further  says,  "  TIic  reader  will  find  it  difhcult  to 
Icarn  any  suffieir'nt  r  asons  for  their  bein^  left  without 
the  instiliUiohs  o\'cin<,  zed  society  I"  Now  there  are  the 
institutions  of  Hritibli  t^oeiety,  and  laws  in  full  force,  in 
the  country ;  and  of  which  they  have  the  benefit  and 
protection.  Hut  as  we  were  before  told  tliat  the  ofticers 
and  other  employees  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  were 
"apprenticed  slav»;H,*'  so  now  it  is  not  surprising  that 
Uritisk  institutions  siiould  be  denied  to  be  tiiosu  of  civi- 
lized society. 

But  the  crowning  hardship  of  the  American  citizens  in 
Orcjj^on,  it  seems,  is  tiiat  they  must  pay  their  debts  in- 
curred to  the  British,  and  arc  liable  to  punishment  for 
the  commission  of  crimes. 

He  says,  "  Their  condition  is  truly  deplorable.  They 
are  liable  to  be  arrested  for  debt  or  crime,  and  conveyed 
to  the  jails  of  Canada.  For  in  that  case  the  business  of 
British  subjects  is  interfered  with,  who,  by  way  of  reta- 
liation, will  withhold  the  supplies  of  clotiiing,  household 
goods,  &c.,  which  the  settlers  have  no  other  means  of 
obtaining."  This  certainly  is  a  cool  mode  of  claiming  a 
license  for  the  firee  citizens  to  cheat,  and  injure  their 
neighbours  with  impunity.  So  forsooth  it  is  but  a  mere 
interference  with  the  business  of  British  subjects  to  rob 
tliem ;  and  it  is  a  great  hardship  if  the  British  withhold 
supplies  from  the  Americans  when  tliey  refuse  to  pay 
them.  Had  any  Englishman  said,  or  written,  that  this 
was  the  opinion  of  the  Americans  in  Oregon,  or  out  of 
it,  lie  would  be  denounced  as  a  prejudiced  misrepresenter. 
But  here  the  opinion  is  broadly  avowed,  by  the  organ  of 
the  democratic  and  dominant  party  in  the  United  States. 

It  is  necessary  to  mention  two  rivers  to  the  south  of 
the  Wallamette,  wiiieh  flow  through  the  same  fertile  and 
picturesque  section  of  tJie   country  as  the  Wallamette 


136 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


;( 


does  (that  section  which  is  encircled  by  the  Columbia 
ridge  of  hills  on  the  north — by  the  ridge  which  runs  alongr 
tiie  shores  of  the  Pacific  on  the  west — by  the  towering- 
Klamet  rangfe  on  the  south — and  by  the  southern  links  of 
the  President's  range  on  the  east.)  These  rivers  are  the 
Umqua  and  Klamet. 

The  Umqua  runs  into  the  Pacific  in  nearly  a  westerly 
direction,  from  its  source  in  the  President's  range ;  and 
is  lined  for  about  a  hundred  miles  by  precipitous  and 
rocky  banks,  covered  with  woods.  It  is  nearly  a  mile 
wide  at  its  mouth,  and  about  three  fathoms  deep.  The 
tide  runs  up  about  thirty  miles ;  and  is  then  checked  by 
rapids  and  cataracts,  which  are  to  be  found,  even  when 
the  lower  cataracts  are  passed,  up  the  course  of  the  river 
to  its  mountain  source.  Its  entire  length  is  about  one 
hundred  and  seventy  miles. 

Perhaps,  on  the  face  of  the  earth,  there  are  not  larger 
specimens  of  the  pine  tree  than  can  be  found  here.  Some 
of  these  trees  are  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet  high,  and 
fifty  feet  in  girth.  The  seed  vessels,  which  are  oval,  are 
often  more  than  a  foot  long,  and  the  seeds  are  as  large  as 
a  castor  bean.  I  have  seen  some  of  these  seeds  brought 
to  the  fort  that,  from  my  observation  of  the  many  pretty 
things  exhibited  in  th»  British  Museum  as  curiosities, 
would,  if  exhibited  there,  be  considered  absolute  wonders. 
I  ought  to  say,  that  the  largest  pine  trees  do  not  yield 
the  hardest,  closest,  and  most  valuable  wood  for  use. 
Cedar  trees  are  there  often  twenty-six  feet  in  girth,  and 
high  in  proportion ;  and  the  gardens  attached  to  the 
Company's  fort  produce  turnips,  often  five  pounds  in 
weight  each.  Indeed,  the  natural  capabilities  of  the  soil 
are  surprising. 

The  Klamet,  further  south,  runs  nearly  due  west  from 
the  President's  range  into  the  Pacific,  about  fifty  miles 
south  of  the  Umqua,  after  a  course  of  about  one  hundred 
and  fifty  miles^  This  is  the  most  southerly  river  of  any 
note  in  the  whole  region,  and  tiic  one  that  may  be  called 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


137 


Ihc   natural   inland  water-boundary,  on  the  southwest, 
between  Oregon  and  California, 

Two  peculiarities  of  the  country  around  and  near  its 
banks,  deserve  notice.  First,  the  face  of  the  country  is 
less  undulating,  and  the  country  itself  seems  to  rise 
higher  in  its  agricultural  and  pastoral  capabilities ;  and 
secondly,  the  enormous  pine  and  cedar  trees  gradually 
disappear,  and  groves  of  short  myrtle,  which  diffuse  a 
most  delicious  fragrance,  line  the  banks,  and  beautifully 
dot  the  country. 

The  Company  have  a  settlement  near  the  mouth  of  the 
Umqua,  and  have  there  commenced  forming  establish- 
ments,  which  promise  (considering  the  great  fecundity  of 
the  soil,  and  the  genial  and  salubrious  character  of  the 
climate,)  if  pushed  on  with  the  usual  vigour  and  judg- 
ment exhibited  in  other  establishments,  farther  to  the 
north,  where  soil  and  climate  have  been  comparatively 
unfavourable,  to  succeed  amazingly.  ? 

As  Mr.  Farnhara  loses  no  opportunity  of  (to  use  an 
American  phrase)  making  a  slap  at  the  Britishers  in 
general,  and  the  Hudson^s  Bay  Company  in  particular — 
although  he  acknowledges  the  kind  and  hospitable  enter- 
tainment  wliich  he  received  at  Fort  Vancouver, — he  treats 
his  readers  to  the  following  accusation.  Speaking  of  a 
Captain  Young,  an  American,  who,  after  failing  in  many 
trading  speculations  in  the  west  of  the  continent,  settled 
as  a  small  farmer  in  Wallamette  district,  and  whom  he 
designates  as  the  "  excellent  old  captain,"  he  says,  *»  He 
related  to  me  many  incidents  of  his  hardships,  among 
which  the  most  Siirprising  was  that  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company  refused  to  sell  him  a  shred  of  clothing,  and  as 
there  were  no  other  traders  in  the  country  he  was  com- 
pelled, during  their  pleasure^  to  wear  skins.  A  false  re- 
port  that  he  had  been  guilty  of  some  dishonourable  acts 
in  California  was  the  alleged  cause  for  this  treatment. 
But  perhaps  a  better  reason  would  be  that  Mr.  Young 
occasionally  purchased  beaver  skins  in  the  American  ter- 

12* 


138 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


ritory."  To  assert  a  false  fact  is  bad  enough,  but  to 
follow  it  up  by  gratuitously  hazarding  a  false  opinion  in 
support  of  it,  is  most  reprehensible  and  unjustifiable. 
The  Company,  so  long  as  this  man  conducted  himself 
])roperly  as  a  free  trader,  gave  him  every  assistance.  Of 
liis  alleged  dishonourable  conduct  in  California,  and  other 
])laees  (though  reports  very  much  to  his  discredit  were 
confidently  circulated  about  him,  and  by  his  own  coun- 
trymen, who  had  no  inducement  to  accuse  him  falsely), 
the  Company  took  no  cognizance.  They  judged  of  him 
as  they  had  experience  of  him.  The  Company  inter- 
dieted,  all  through  their  range  of  operations  in  the  Oregon, 
the  use  of  spirituous  liquors,  as  an  article  of  trade  among 
the  natives,  from  a  knowledge  of  its  injurious  influence 
upon  them,  or  as  an  article  of  general  use  and  luxury 
among  their  servants.  Young,  thinking  a  trade  in  spirits 
would  be  a  good  speculation,  set  up  a  distillery,  and 
began  to  induce,  not  alone  the  natives,  but  the  servants 
of  the  Company,  to  deal  with  him.  When  the  Company 
expressed  their  disapproval  of  this  and  other  proceedings, 
he  commenced  an  agitating  course  among  the  settlers, 
and  defied  the  Company.  The  Company  then  quietly 
lefl  him  to  his  own  resources.  As  to  the  insinuation 
which  Mr.  Farnhara  makes  that  the  gravemen  of  his 
oftfence  was  his  trading  in  American  territory,  as  if 
Oregon  was  exclusively  tach,  the  reader  can  easily  draw 
his  own  inference  : — it  was  intended  to  work  a  purpose 
in  the  States* 


!.'• 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


139 


CHAPTER  XTTI. 


1' 


General  outline  of  the  Oregon  Territory. 


The  natural  limits  of  this  extensive  and  important  re- 
gion, are  strictly  defined  by  nature.  On  the  west,  it  is 
bounded,  along  its  whole  lengtli,  by  the  Pacific  Ocean, 
and  is  indented  by  numerous  bays  and  inlets — on  the 
south,  by  the  fertile  country  of  California,  and  the  Klamet 
range  of  hills,  which  are  an  offshoot  from  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  and  run  in  a  parallel  of  42*^ — on  the  whole  of 
the  east  line,  by  the  main  ridge  of  the  towering  Rocky 
Mountains — and  on  the  nortii,  as  the  boundary  between 
it  and  the  Russian  territories,  by  many  spurs  from  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  and  by  a  chain  of  lakes  and  rivers. 

The  extent  of  the  whole  region  in  its  widest  sense,  is 
about  four  times  the  area  of  Great  Britain.  It  is  re- 
markable, that  all  the  rivers  which  flow  through  this  ter- 
ritory, take  their  rise  and  are  emptied  within  these  limits; 
so  that  it  may  be  said,  that  it  .  carcely  has  any  natural 
communication  with  any  other  country.  It  extends  from 
latitude  42°  to  that  of  54°  north.  For  beauty  of  scenery, 
salubrity  of  climate  along  the  Pacific,  and  general  adapta- 
tion for  commerce,  it  can  scarcely  be  surpassed  by  any 
country  in  the  world.  There  are,  too,  in  many  places, 
great  fertility  of  soil,  and  agricultural  capabilities. 

The  natural  character  of  the  whole  country,  is  a  suc- 
cession of  mountain  ridges,  and  valleys,  and  plains ;  and 
though  there  are  many  fertile  districts  within  it,  espe- 
cially towards  the  ocean,  yet  it  may  be  safely  averred, 
that  as  a  whoUy  it  is  not  favourable  for  agricultural  culti- 
vation. 

It  is,  in  a  word,  chiefly  valuable  for  trade ;  and  for  the 
advantages  of  the  Columbia,  and  other  maritime  stations, 


140 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


pi 

kS 

rif 

to  the  north  ;  which  secure  for  the  possessors  a  command 
of  the  Northern  Pacific,  and  an  easy  way  to  China.  Of 
this  the  Americans  arc  fully  awa/e ;  and  hence  their  ex. 
traordinary  anxiety,  and  exertions  to  effect  a  lodgment 
there.  Hence  too  their  exaggerated  claims — their  mis. 
representations — contemptible  bluster ;  and  impotent  me- 
naces. 

Though  their  writers  and  speakers  have  been  for  years 
deceiving,  not  alone  the  British  public,  but  even  their 
own ;  by  holding  forth  the  country  as  a  new  paradise,  in 
the  remote  wilderness  of  the  west,  to  which  the  Ame- 
ricans alone  had  an  undisputed  right,  while  it  was 
wrongfully  invaded  by  the  "grasping  and  oppressive 
Britishers;"  and  most  criminally  inciting  the  ignorant 
populace  to  raise  a  ferment  throughout  the  whole  confe- 
deration ;  in  reference  to  the  questioned — and  indeed 
most  questionable — claim  of  the  Americans  to  the  terri- 
tory ;  and  inciting  their  countrymen  to  encounter  almost 
incalculable  privations  and  hazards,  in  order  to  fix  settle- 
ments in  the  country :  yet  the  knowing  ones  of  them  must 
have  been  all  along  sensible  that  it  is  valuable  mainly  for 
trade. 

As  nature  has  given  the  country  external  boundaries, 
of  mountain,  sea,  lake,  and  river :  so  it  may  be  inter- 
nally  divided  into  three  natural  sections. 

First.  The  western  section ;  lying  between  the  Pacific 
Ocean,  and  Cascade  Mountains — sometimes  called  Presi- 
dent's Range.  This  range  runs  parallel  with  the  coast, 
the  whole  length  of  the  territory,  from  north  to  south, 
rising  in  many  places  in  high  peaks,  from  twelve  thou- 
sand to  sixteen  thousand  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 
Their  distance  from  the  coast  varies  from  one  hundred 
and  twenty  to  one  hundred  and  fifly  miles. 

Second.  The  middle  section,  lying  between  the  Cascade 
Mountains  on  the  west,  and  the  Blue  Mountain  range,  on 
the  east.  The  Blue  Mountains  are  much  broken  and 
irregular  in  their  course. 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


141 


Third.  The  eastern  section,  which  extends  from  the 
z'lgzug  line  of  the  Blue  Mountains  to  the  chain  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains.  Though  each  division  or  section  may 
bo  said  to  be  separated  from  another,  there  are  numerous 
communications  between  them  by  the  large  rivers,  valleys, 
and  passes.  Tims,  while  the  country  is  divided  into  parts, 
yet  these  parts  are  bound  and  consolidated  by  one  vast 
belt  of  external  boundary. 

Mountains. — The  Cascade  Range,  as  being  that  which 
bounds  the  western  section  of  the  country,  and  the  most 
fertile  and  valuable  section,  is  the  most  interesting  and 
important  range.  Its  northern  termination  may  be  taken 
from  Mount  Elias :  it  diverges  thence  eastward ;  and 
winds  afterwards  southward,  to  the  Gulf  of  California ; 
showing,  along  its  course,  numerous  lofty  peaks ;  and, 
like  most  of  the  other  mountains,  strong  signs  of  volcanic 
action,  at  a  remote  period.  The  American  writers  and 
authors  give  many  o5*  these  peaks  the  names  of  American 
presidents.  Says  Mr.  Farnham,  in  his  usual  gasconading 
style,  "  All  the  principal  peaks  should  bear  the  names  of 
those  distinguished  men,  whom  the  suffrages  of  the  people 
that  own  Oregon  (/)  have  from  time  to  time  called  to  ad- 
minister their  national  government." 

Hence  we  have,  from  north  to  south,  on  American  au- 
thority. Mounts  Tyler, — Harrison, — Van  Buren, — Adams, 
— Washington, — Jefferson, — Madison, — Monroe, — Quin 
cy  Adams, — Jackson  ;  names  that  are,  for  the  most  part, 
new  to  the  Britishers. 

But,  however,  as  they  designate  certain  distinct  coni- 
cal eminences,  I  adopt  them  for  the  present  purpose. 

Mount  Tyler  lies  in  latitude  forty-nine,  and  about 
thirty  miles  from  the  eastern  waters  of  Vancouver's 
Island.  Mount  Harrison,  about  thirty  miles  east  of  Pa- 
get's  Sound.  Mount  Van  Buren,  on  the  isthmus  between 
Paget's  Sound  and  the  Pacific.  Mount  Adams,  about 
twenty.five  miles  north  of  the  Cascades  of  the  Columbia. 
Mount  Washington,  about  twenty  miles  south  of  the  Cas 


143 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


cades.  Tijiis  is  the  loftiest  peak  of  all,  and  in  about  six. 
teen  thousand  feet  high.  Mount  Jackson  is  the  most 
southern  peak  of  the  range,  lying  in  latitude  forty.one, 
beyond  the  southern  boundary  of  the  Oregon. 

These  heights  present  a  general  sameness  of  appear, 
ancc  and  character.  They  are  covered  with  snow,  and 
their  sides  are  in  general  bare,  rocky,  and  precipitous. 
This  chain  of  mountains  runs  almost  parallel  with  the 
Rocky  Mountains ;  and,  at  an  average,  is  about  four  hun- 
dred  miles  distant  from  them ;  so  that  the  main  breadth 
of  the  country,  from  the  Rocky  Mountains  to  the  ocean, 
is,  on  a  loose  calculation,  about  five  hundred  miles.  The 
hills  intervening  between  these  towering  conical  moun- 
tain peaks  are  covered,  from  bottom  to  top,  with  forests 
of  enormous  trees — consisting  of  pine,  fir,  cedar,  &,c. 
Many  of  these  present  a  bare  shaft  of  two  hundred  feet 
high,  before  a  limb  shoots  off;  and  near  the  base  have  a 
circumference  of  from  six  to  eight  fathoms.  On  the  north 
side  of  the  Columbia,  near  the  Cascades,  there  runs  west- 
ward a  spur,  varying  from  one  thousand  to  fifteen  hun. 
dred  feet  high  above  the  river,  from  this  great  chain, 
covered  with  the  huge  trees  indigenous  to  the  country, 
as  far  as  Cape  Disappointment.  This  spur  commences 
near  Mount  Adams.  On  the  south  side  of  the  river  a 
smaller  spur,  commencing  at  the  Cascades,  runs,  from 
near  Mount  Washington,  westward  as  far  as  Fort  George ; 
so  that  the  Columbia,  from  the  Cascades  almost  to  its 
mouth,  runs  through  a  deep  valley,  of  unequal  breadth, 
walled  in  by  high  mountains.  These  two  parallel  spurs 
decline  in  altitude  westward.  Again,  there  is  another 
range  of  mountains,  running  along  the  brink  of  the  Paci- 
fie  coast  from  Upper  California,  northward  as  far  as  the 
Straits  of  Fuca,  This  range  is,  for  the  most  part,  a  bare 
and  barren  ridge  of  dark  rocks.  But  the  eastern  sides  of 
the  southern  portion  are  covered  with  heavy  timber,  such 
as  pine,  fir,  spruce,  &.c. 

That  portion  of  the  Oregon  which  is  bounded  on  the 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


143 


north  by  the  Columbia — by  the  President's  Range  on  the 
cast — by  the  Californian  boundary  on  the  south — and  by 
the  Pacific  on  the  west,  is  by  far  the  most  fertile,  and 
beautiful,  and  genial ;  and,  in  truth,  not  only  compara- 
lively  with  the  other  parts  of  the  region  is  it  so,  but  it  is 
so  abstractedly.  Though  undulating  and  broken  in  its 
surface,  it  may  be  designated  as  a  vast  rich  plain,  em- 
bedded within  a  circle  of  mountains :  for  on  the  west  it 
is  guarded  by  the  Pacific  ridge  of  mountains — on  the 
south  by  the  Klamet  Range  of  the  towering,  snow-capped 
mountains,  on  the  east  by  the  rocks  of  the  President's 
Range — and  on  the  north  by  the  Columbian  hills.  This 
vast  valley  possesses  every  facility  for  pasturage,  and 
every  capability  for  cultivation.  The  land  is  in  general 
open— delightfully  interspersed  with  clumps  and  groves 
of  trees — well  stocked  with  deer,  elk,  and  all  sorts  of 
game ;  and  is  studded  with  small  lakes,  and  rivers,  which 
yield,  in  innumerable  quantities,  all  sorts  of  fish. 

The  principal  rivers  are  the  Wallamette,  the  Umqua, 
and  Klamet;  which,  with  the  productiveness  of  the  soil, 
have  been  already  noticed. 

Rivers, — ^The  principal  river  is  the  Columbia,  which 
rises  in  the  Rocky  Mountains,  in  latitude  50<^  north,  and 
longitude  116*^  west;  and  during  its  course  to  the  ocean, 
receives  a  great  number  of  large  tributary  streams.  After 
receiving  Canoe  River,  and  flowing  in  a  southwesterly 
direction,  and  expanding  into  a  line  of  lakes  ;  it  receives 
at  Fort  Colville,  the  River  Colville,  which  rises  in  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  and  takes  a  northwesterly  direction. 
At  Colville,  it  is  two  thousand  five  hundred  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  sea.  To  the  south  of  this,  it  winds  to  the 
westward,  receiving  the  Spokan  River  from  the  east. 
Thence  it  pursues  a  westerly  course  for  about  sixty 
miles ;  and  at  its  bend  to  the  south,  it  is  joined  by  the 
Okanagan — a  river  that  has  its  source  in  a  line  of  lakes, 
affording  boat-navigation  for  a  considerable  extent  north- 
ward. Thence  it  passes  to  the  southward,  until  it  reaches 


144 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


Wallcavvalla,  in  tlic  latitude  of  4.')'^ ;  rrcoivinpf,  nnion|T 
other  streams,  its  great  soutljcaslern  brunch,  the  Snakr 
River,  called  also  the  Saptin  or  fiewis  River,  which  iwis 
its  source  in  the  Rocky  Mountains.  Tliong-lj  this  latter 
river  flows  a  distance  of  five  hundred  miles,  and  brinjrs  u 
vast  accession  of  water  to  the  Cohunhia,  yet,  from  its  nu- 
merous shallows,  rapids,  and  eddies,  it  is  not  navijrahic 
for  any  continued  extent.  At  Wallawalla,  the  Columbia 
is  one  thousand  two  hundred  and  eighty-six  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  sea,  and  about  three  tliousand  five  hun- 
drcd  feet  wide.  It  thence  takes  its  last  turn,  to  the  west. 
ward,  pursuing  its  rapid  course  for  ei<rhty  miles,  until  it 
reaches  the  range  of  the  Cascade  Mountains,  Through 
these  it  flows  in  a  series  of  falls  and  rapids,  that  form  in- 
surmountable  barriers  to  the  passage  of  boats  during  the 
floods.  However,  these  difficulties  arc  overcome  by  por- 
tages. From  thence  there  is  a  still-water  navigation,  for 
forty  miles  ;  when  its  course  is  again  obstructed  by  rapids. 
Thence  to  the  ocean — one  hundred  and  twenty  miles — it 
is  navigable  for  vessels  of  twelve  feet  draught  of  water, 
at  the  lowest  state  of  the  river.  In  this  part,  it  receives 
the  Wallamette  from  the  south,  and  the  Cowlitze  from 
the  north.  The  former  is  navigable  for  small  vessels,  for 
twenty  miles,  to  the  mouth  of  the  Klackamus  ;  the  latter 
is  navigable  only  for  canoes  and  barges. 

The  next  river  in  importance  is  Frazer's  River.  It 
takes  its  rise  in  the  Rocky  Mountains,  near  the  source  of 
Canoe  River,  taking  a  northwest  course  of  eighty  miles. 
It  then  turns  to  the  southward,  receiving  Stuart's  River, 
which  rises  in  a  chain  of  lakes  in  the  northern  boundary 
of  the  territory.  It  then  pursues  a  southerly  course ;  and 
after  receiving  many  tributaries,  breaks  through  the  Cas- 
cade range  of  hills,  in  a  series  of  falls  and  rapids ;  and 
after  a  westerly  course  of  seventy  miles,  empties  itself 
into  the  Gulf  of  Georgia,  in  latitude  49°  7"  north.  This 
latter  portion  is  navigable  for  vessels  that  can  pass  its 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


145 


bar  drawing,'  ten  Cvd  of  water.  Itu  wliole  length  Ls  three 
liurulred  and  iil'ty  iiiih^s. 

Tlie  principal  rivers  are  rapid,  and  snnk  much  below 
the  level  of  the  country,  with  perpendicular  hanks,  Hpeak- 
innc  generally.  During  the  seasons  of  tiic  rise,  tliey  fre- 
quently  overflow  fheir  banks,  in  consef|uencc  of  bars, 
and  other  obstructions,  and  submerge  the  adjacent  low 
grounds.  These  rises  are  produced  by  the  rains,  or  the 
melting  of  t!ie  snow  on  the  ui)per  mountains  ;  and  arc 
sometimes  very  rapid.  The  rise  in  the  (Columbia  takes 
place  in  May  and  June  ;  and  at  Vancouver  is  about 
twenty  feet.  The  rise  in  the  VV^allamette  takes  place  in 
February. 

There  arc  numerous  lakes  scattered  through  the  seve- 
ral sections.  The  country  is  all  well  watered  ;  and  there 
are  but  few  places  where  an  abundance  of  water  cannot 
be  obtained,  either  from  lakes,  rivers,  or  springs. 

Climate. — The  climate  of  the  western  division  is  mild 
throughout  the  year — neither  the  cold  of  winter,  nor  the 
heat  of  summer,  predominating.  The  mean  temperature 
is  about  54°,  Fahrenheit.  The  prevailing  winds,  in 
summer,  are  from  the  northward  and  westward ;  and  in 
winter,  from  the  west,  south,  and  southeast.  The  winter 
lasts  from  about  November  till  March,  generally  speak- 
ing. During  that  time,  there  are  frequent  falls  of  rain, 
but  not  heavy.  Snow  seldom  lies  longer  than  a  week  on 
the  ground.  There  are  frosts  so  early  as  September ;  but 
they  arc  not  severe,  and  do  not  continue  long.  The 
easterly  winds  arc  the  coldest,  as  they  come  from  across 
the  mountains;  but  thoy  are  not  frerpiont.  Fruit  trees 
blossom  early  in  April,  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Nasqually 
and  Vancouver ;  and  in  the  middle  of  May,  peas  arc  a 
foot  high,  and  strawberries  in  full  blossom  :  indeed,  all 
fruits  and  vegetables  are  as  early  there  as  in  England. 
The  hills,  though  of  great  declivity,  have  a  sward  to  their 
tops.     Lieutenant  Wilkes  says,  that  out  of  one  hundred 

13 


146 


OREGON  TERRITORV. 


and  six  days,  sevcnty-six  were  fair,  nineteen  cloudy,  and 
eleven  rainy. 

The  middle  section  is  subject  to  droughts.  During 
summer,  the  atmosphere  is  drier  and  warmer,  and  the 
winter  colder,  than  in  the  western  section  :  its  extremes 
of  heat  and  cold  being  greater  and  more  frequent.  How. 
ever,  the  air  is  purp  zr.d  healthy;  the  atmosphere,  in 
summer,  being  cooled  by  the  breezes  that  blow  from  the 
Pacific. 

The  eastern  section,  which  runs  along  the  western 
base  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  partly  lies  within 
their  winding  projections,  is  extremely  variable  in  cli. 
mate :  all  the  changes  incident  to  spring,  summer,  au. 
tumn,  and  winter,  being  sometimes  experienced  there  in 
a  single  day. 

Soil. — The  soil  of  the  western  section  varies  from  a 
deep  black  vegetable  loam,  to  a  light  brown,  loamy  earth. 
The  hills  are  generally  basalt,  stone,  and  slate.  The  sur- 
face is  generally  undulating,  well  watered,  well  wooded, 
and  well  adapted  for  agriculture  and  pasturage.  The 
timber  consists  of  pine,  fir,  spruce,  oaks  (white^and  red), 
ash,  arbutus,  cedar,  arborvitse,  poplar,  maple,  willow, 
cherry,  tew ;  with  underwoods  of  hazel  and  roses.  All 
kinds  of  grain,  wheat,  rye,  barley,  oats,  and  peas,  can  be 
procured  there  in  abundance.  Various  fruits,  such  as 
pears,  apples,  &c.,  succeed  there  admirably ;  and  the  dif- 
ferent  vegetables  produced  in  England  yield  there  most 
abundant  crops. 

The  middle  section,  which  is  about  one  thousand  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  western,  is  not  so  well  wooded  or 
fertile ;  yet  in  the  southern  parts  of  it,  where  the  mis- 
sionaries have  established  settlements,  they  have  raised 
excellent  crops,  and  reared  large  stocks  of  cattle.  Not- 
withstanding  the  occasional  cold,  their  cattle  are  not 
housed,  nor  is  provender  laid  in  for  them  in  any  quantity^ 
the  country  being  sufficiently  supplied  with  fodder  in  the 


OREGON  TFRRITORY. 


147 


natural  hay  that  is  every  where  ahundant  in  the  prairies, 
which  the  cattle  prefer. 

Tlie  eastern  section,  Ironi  the  coldness  of  the  climate 
and  comparative  sterility  of  tlie  soil,  whicii  is*  much  im- 
jjrcg-nuted  with  salts,  is  hut  little  adapted  for  cultivation. 
No  attempts  at  ajrriculture  have  heen  made  there,  except 
at  Fort  Hall.  Here,  hy  care,  small  jrrains  and  vcgetahles 
Iiave  been  produced  in  sutKcient  quantity  to  supply  the 
wants  of  t!ic  post;  and  the  cattle,  notwithstandinjLf  the 
severity  of  the  climate,  are  found  to  thrive  well,  and  not 
to  require  housing-  in  winter. 

At  Nasqually,  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  liavc  a  farm 
which  has  been  recently  brought  under  cultivation.  It 
yields  fine  crops  of  wheat,  oats,  potatoes,  peas,  &,c.  It  is 
principally  intended  for  a  grazing  and  dairy  farm.  They 
have  already  one  hundred  milch  cows,  and  make  butter, 
&c.,  to  supply  the  Russians.  They  have  also  brought 
another  farm  under  cultivation  at  the  Cowlitzc  River, 
about  thirty  miles  from  the  Columbia.  This  farm,  in 
1841,  produced  seven  thousand  bushels  of  wheat.  In 
this  district  several  Canadians,  and  other  British  subjects, 
have  established  themselves ; — work  small  farms  of  about 
fifty  acres,  and  live  very  comfortably.  The  Company 
have  also  other  farms,  at  the  different  posts  in  the  inte- 
rior, all  of  which  are  well  stocked ;  and  the  produce  of 
tJie  several  farms  is  made  a  lucrative  article  of  trade 
(after  supplying  the  wants  of  their  servants)  with  the 
Russians.  They  have  also  introduced  large  herds  and 
flocks  from  California ;  and  thus  they  are  gradually  cul- 
tivating the  country,  and  civilizing  the  natives. 

Mr.  Wilkes  says,  "  In  comparison  with  our  own  coun- 
try, I  would  say,  that  the  labour  necessary  in  this  terri- 
tory to  acquire  wealth  or  subsistence  is  in  the  proportion 
of  one  to  three ;  or  in  other  w^ords,  a  man  must  work 
throughout  the  year  three  times  as  much  in  the  United 
States  to  gain  the  like  competency.  The  care  of  stock, 
which  occupies  so  much  time  with  us,  requires  no  atten- 


148 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


.1/ ': 


L.  mn 


tion  tlicrc  ;  and  on  tlio  increase  only  a  man  nilglit  find 
Kupport."  lie  furtlier  says,  ♦'  tiiere  will  be  also  a  demand 
for  the  timber  of  Ihi.s  country,  at  hi^li  prices,  throughout 
the  Pacific.  Tlic  oak  is  well  adapted  for  sliip-timkr, 
and  abundance  of  ash,  cedar,  cypress,  and  arbor-vila', 
may  be  had  for  other  purposes, — buildings,  fuel,  fencing, 
&.C."  He  also  adds,  "  no  part  of  the  world  affords  finer 
inland  sounds,  or  a  greater  number  of  harbours,  than  are 
ibund  within  the  Straits  of  Juan  dc  Fuca,  capable  of  re. 
ceiving  the  largest  class  of  vessels,  and  without  a  danger 
in  them  which  is  not  visible.  From  the  rise  and  fall  of 
the  tides  (eighteen  feet)  every  facility  is  affordc  d  for  the 
erection  of  works  for  a  great  maritime  nation.  The 
country  also  affords  as  many  sites  for  water  power  as  any 
other." 

On  the  northern  coast  there  arc  a  number  of  islands, 
which  belong  to  the  territory.  The  largest  are  Vancou- 
ver Island,  which  is  two  hundred  and  sixty  miles  long, 
and  filly  broad,  containing  fifteen  thousand  squares  mil<'s, 
and  Queen  Charlotte  Island,  which  is  one  hundred  and 
fifty  miles  long,  and  thirty  broad,  containing  four  thou- 
sand squares  miles.  The  climate  is  mild  and  salubrious, 
and  the  soil  well  adapted  to  agriculture.  They  have  also 
an  abundance  of  fine  fish  in  their  waters.  Coal,  of  a 
very  good  quality,  is  found  there  close  by  the  surface ; 
and  they  also  contain  numerous  veins  of  valuable  minr- 
rals. 

All  the  rivers  abound  in  salmon  of  the  finest  quality, 
which  run  twice  a  year,  beginning  in  May  and  Octobt  , 
and  appear  inexhaustible.  The  Columbia  produces  the 
largest.  The  great  fishery  of  this  river  is  at  the  Dalles. 
The  last  one,  on  the  northern  branch  of  the  Columl  ia,  is 
near  Colville,  at  the  Kettle  Falls;  though  salmon  arc 
found  above  this  both  in  the  river  and  its  tributaric  •.  In 
Frazer's  River  the  salmon  are  very  numerous.  The  bays 
and  inlets  abound  with  several  kinds  of  salmon,  sturgeon, 
cod,  carp,  sole,  flounders,  perch,  herring,  and  c  Is ;  also 


OREGON  TERRITORV. 


149 


with  slicll-fish — crabs,  oysters,  &,c.  Wlialca  and  sca- 
ottcr  in  numbers  arc  found  alowfr  tlio  coast,  and  are  t'rc- 
qucntly  captured  by  the  Indians  in  and  at  tlic  inoutli  of 
the  Straits  of  Juan  do  Fuca. 

Game  abounds  in  the  western  section,  such  as  elk, 
(leer,  antelopes,  bears,  wolves,  foxes,  musk.rats,  martens. 
And  in  the  spring  and  fall  the  rivers  arc  covered  with 
prcesc,  ducks,  and  other  water-fowl.  Towards  the  Rocky 
Mountains  buffaloes  are  found  in  great  numbers. 

From  the  advantages  this  country  possesses  it  bids  fair 
to  have  an  extensive  commerce,  on  advantageous  terms, 
with  most  parts  of  the  Pacific.  It  is  well  calculated  to 
produce  the  following  staple  commodities — furs,  salted 
l)cef  and  pork,  fish,  grain,  flour,  wool,  hides,  tallow,  tim- 
ber, and  coals ;  and,  in  return  for  these — sugars,  coffee, 
;md  other  tropical  productions,  may  be  obtained  at  the 
nndwich  Islands.  Advantages  that,  in  time,  must  be- 
come of  immense  extent. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

Astoria,  or  Fort  George. 

As  the  Americans  liave  vaunted  much  about  this  set- 
tlement at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia,  I  shall  give  its 
history  briefly. 

Astoria,  (now  Fort  George,)  was  founded  in  1811  by 
Mr.  Astor.  This  gentleman  was  a  German,  born  near 
Heidelberg,  on  the  banks  of  the  Rliine.  His  parents 
were  humble  agriculturalists.  He  quitted  his  native  vil- 
lage ;  and  afler  residing  some  time  in  London,  went,  as 
an  adventurer,  to  the  United  States.  There  he  met  a 
countryman  of  his,  who  had  some  knowledge  of  the  fur 
trade ;  and  by  his  recommendation  he  was  induced  to 
embark  in  this  species  of  commercial  enterprise.    From 

13* 


150 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


f-i 


small  beginningSf  he  gradually  rose  to  considerable  im- 
portance as  a  fur  trader ;  and  became  a  bold  and  active 
speculator.  It  is  unnecessary  to  detail  the  stages  of  his 
gradual  progress  and  success ;  but  in  1 809  he  obtained 
(after  several  ineffectual  attempts  had  been  made  by  the 
Americans,  to  secure  a  monopoly  of  this  North-American 
trade)  a  charter  from  the  legislature  of  the  State  of  New 
York,  incorporating  a  company,  under  the  name  of"  The 
American  Fur  Company."  He  himself,  however — ac- 
cording to  his  biographer,  Washington  Irving — in  fact, 
constituted  the  company ;  for  though  he  had  a  board  of 
directors,  they  were  merely  nominal. 

In  1811,  he  founded  a  settlement  near  the  mouth  of  the 
river,  which  was  called  Astoria,  his  object  being,  accord, 
ing  to  Washington  Irving,  "  to  carry  the  fur  trade  across 
the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  sioeep  the  Pacijicy  At  this 
time  he  became  naturalized,  and  was  a  citizen^  from 
whose  imtriotism^  energy,  and  skill,  much  was  expected 
for  the  assertion  of  American  rights,  and  the  promotion 
of  American  commerce. 

Mr.  Aster's  plans  were  certainly  well  conceived,  for 
extending  the  trade  inland  by  a  line  of  stationary  posts, 
and  rambling  parties,  from  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  to 
the  confines  of  the  United  Stales ;  and  coastwise,  from 
California  to  tlie  Pole — in  brief,  of  monopolizing  the 
traffic  of  the  whole  northern  continent.  One  part  of  his 
plan  was,  that  a  vessel  laden  with  goods  for  the  Indian 
trade,  should  every  year  sail  from  New  York  to  the  Co- 
lunibia,  and,  having  discharged  her  cargo  at  the  establisli- 
ment  there,  take  on  board  the  produce  of  her  year's  trade, 
and  thence  proceed  to  Canton,  bringing  back  the  rich 
productions  of  China.  Other  ships  were  to  be  destined 
for  New  York  and  Ijondon,  as  no  doubt  was  entertained, 
that  all  the  British  fur  trading  companies  would  be  soon 
blown  into  thin  air  by  this  gigantic  American  project, 
and  by  the  superior  enterprise,  skill,  and  integrity,  of  the 
free  citizens  I 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


151 


a  board  of 


Another  part  of  the  plan,  Mr.  Irving  thus  describes : — 
«  As  in  extending  the  American  trade  along  the  coast  to 
the  northward,  it  might  come  into  the  vicinity  of  the 
Russian  Fur  Company,  and  produce  a  hostile  rivalry ;  it 
was  part  of  the  plan  of  Mr.  Astor,  to  conciliate  the  good- 
v^ill  of  that  Company,  by  the  most  amicable  and  beneficial 
arrangements.  The  Russian  establishment  was  chiefly 
dependent  for  its  supplies  on  transient  trading  vessels 
from  the  United  States.*  These  vessels  were  often,  how- 
ever, of  more  harm  than  advantage.  Being  owned  by 
private  adventurers,  or  casual  voyagers,  who  cared  only 
for  the  present  profit,  and  had  no  interest  in  tlic  perma- 
nent prosperity  of  the  trade,  they  were  reckless  in  their 
dealings  with  the  natives,  and  made  no  scruple  of  supply- 
ing them  with  fire-arms.  The  Russian  government  had 
made  representations  to  tliat  of  the  United  States,  of  these 
malpractices  on  the  part  of  its  citizens ;  but  as  they  did 
not  infringe  any  municipal  law,  our  government  could 
not  interfere." 

It  is  not  necessary  for  me  to  fix  attention  here  to  the 
testimony  borne  by  a  reputable  and  patriotic,  though  re- 
luctant, witness,  to  the  infamous  mode  of  conducting 
business,  adopted  by  the  Americans,  at  least  in  those  re- 
gions ;  or  to  the  curious  fact,  that  a  despotic  and  semi- 
barbarous  government  should  have  been  constrained  to 
make  a  remonstrance  to  a  professedly  free,  and  boastedly 
enlightened  government,  on  the  infraction  by  its  citizens 
of  the  common  principles  of  humane,  honest,  and  liberal 
dealing. 

When  the  establishment  was  once  founded,  and  the 
Company  was  in  working  order,  the  most  extravagant 
reports  were  circulated,  about  the  wealth  to  be  found  in 
Columbia  by  the  new  adventurers :  not  a  moment,  it  was 
said,  was  to  be  lost,  and  consequently,  many  were  lured 
to  the  enterprise. 

The  first  ship  chartered  by  this  Company  was  the  Ton- 
quin,  which  sailed  from  New  York  in  September,  1810, 


152 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


commanded  by  Captain  Thorn.  There  were  on  board  a 
few  British  subjects,  going  out  to  join  the  Company.  But 
so  inveterate  was  the  anti-British  spirit  of  the  captain, 
that  he  treated  them  with  every  indignity,  which  led  to 
constant  quarrels  during  the  voyage.  On  arriving  at  the 
Falkland  Islands,  some  of  the  British  went  on  shore. 
The  captain,  seeing  this,  gave  orders  to  sail  off;  deter, 
mined  to  leave  them  to  perish.  But  a  Mr.  Robert  Stuart, 
nephew  of  one  of  those  gentlemen,  who  luckily  remained 
on  board,  brought  the  citizen  captain  to  a  sense  of  humanity 
and  justice,  by  holding  a  brace  of  pistols  to  his  head,  and 
threatening  to  blow  out  his  brains,  unless  he  took  his 
uncle  and  his  party  on  board. 

On  arriving  at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia,  on  the  23d 
of  the  following  March,  the  captain,  against  all  remon- 
strance, as  it  blew  a  stiff  breeze,  sent  the  chief  mate  and 
four  men  to  sound  the  channel.  These  all  perished.  The 
captain,  on  the  25th,  despatched  one  of  the  officers, 
accompanied  by  four  men,  in  the  jolly  boat,  to  sound 
again.  This  boat  was  also  wrecked,  but  two  of  the  crew 
escaped  miraculously.  At  last  the  ship,  with  great  diffi- 
culty, was  worked  into  Baker's  Bay.  In  July,  she  was 
despatched  on  a  coasting  and  trading  excursion  northward. 
Having  anchored  opposite  Newettee,  in  the  vicinity  of 
Nootka,  they  commenced  a  brisk  trade  with  the  natives. 
But  the  captain,  by  showing  a  tyrannical  disposition,  and 
inflicting  chastisement  on  one  or  two  of  the  principal 
Indians,  for  some  trifling  offence,  their  hostility  and 
revenge  became  excited.  The  captain  was  warned,  by 
his  interpreter,  and  others,  of  the  imprudence  and  danger 
of  his  conduct,  but  he  spurned  all  advice,  and  did  not 
relax  from  his  stern  conduct. 

In  a  day  or  two  the  natives,  with  a  show  of  friendship, 
renewed  the  trade,  and  went  on  board  in  great  numbers, 
carrying  large  quantities  of  furs,  and  wearing  short  fur- 
skin  cloaks,  contrary  to  their  usual  custom.  He  was 
again  warned  of  danger ;  and  he  again  rejected  all  advice 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


153 


— expressing-  his  contempt  of  any  attack  made  by  half- 
naked  savages  against  such  a  bold  crew  as  his,  who  had 
plenty  of  cutlasses  and  fire-arms,  ranged  below  deck.  But 
he  soon  found  that  his  arbitrary  self-confidence  was  im- 
prudent, and  that  arras  ready  for  use  above  deck  were 
better  than  when  stowed  away  below.  The  Indians 
began,  from  their  growing  crowds,  and  their  conduct  on 
board,  to  become  troublesome ;  and  he  ordered  the  deck 
to  be  speedily  cleared.  Then  a  loud  whoop  was  raised, 
and  from  beneath  every  short  cloak  was  suddenly 
snatched  some  formidable  weapon,  and,  before  the  arms 
could  be  procured  from  below,  the  captain  and  the  crew 
were  slaughtered  on  deck,  with  the  exception  of  three. 
These  three  contrived  to  escape  from  the  ship  in  a  boat, 
during  the  melee — having  previously  set  a  train  to  the 
powder-store.  Soon  after  they  quitted  the  ship,  she  blew 
up,  and  above  two  hundred  of  the  principal  savages 
perished  with  her.  In  the  consternation  produced  by  the 
explosion",  among  the  crews  of  the  numerous  boats  sta- 
tioned around  the  ship,  they  were  enabled  to  reach  shore, 
but  being  prevented,  by  the  state  of  the  weather,  from 
getting  into  the  ocean,  they  were  compelled  to  try  an 
overland  journey  to  Astoria.  However,  in  a  couple  of 
days  they  were  all  captured,  and  slaughtered. 

While  these  sad  tidings  reached  the  fort  from  the 
Pacific,  other  news  of  misadventure  reached  it  from  the 
interior.  Their  parties  having  been  attacked  by  the  In- 
dians, failed  in  either  establishing  settlements,  or  securing' 
a  profitable  trade.  Though  Mr.  Astor  had  a  good  head, 
and  spirit  for  projecting  boldly  and  extensively,  he  either 
did  not  adopt,  or  could  not  adopt,  the  means  of  securing 
an  effective  enginery  to  work  out  his  large  and  complex 
plans.  In  short,  to  use  a  vulgar,  though  very  expressive 
designation,  his  instruments  were  *'a  ruin  lot,"^  The 
rise  of  his  Oregon  speculation  was  marked  by  misconduct 
and  disaster,  and  its  fall  was  equally  inglorious. 

This  Company  next  chartered  a  sliip,  which  had  been 


154 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


sent  out  from  America  the  following  year,  "liie  Beaver," 
freighted  with  a  rich  cargo  of  furs,  and  other  valuable 
commodities — the   produce   of  the   country — for  China, 
neither  expense  nor  pains  having  been  spared  to  equip 
her  so  as  to  make  a  favourable  impression  on  the  Chinese. 
The  Company  hugged  the  sanguine  hope  that  they  had 
laid  the  foundation  of  a  permanent  and  lucrative  trade 
with  that  people,  and  would  soon,  by  spreading  the  sphere 
of  their  operations  and  settlements  along  the  Pacific,  out- 
rival the  British  in  that  market.     But  their  high-blown 
expectations  were  dashed  all  at  once,  for  the  disastrous 
intelligence  arrived  that  war  had  been  declared  between 
Great  Britain  and  America,  and  that  the  British  had 
blocked  up  the  Beaver  in  the  port  of  Canton,  nay,  more, 
that  they  had  blocked  up  every  foreign  port  against  the 
Americans.    The  desperate  state  of  their  affairs  was  now 
evident.    They  could  hope  for  no  succour  by  sea — all 
expectation  of  return  of  profits  by  "the  Beaver,"  to  which 
they  mainly  trusted,  was  at  an  end.    They  had  no  com- 
munication with  their  fellow-countrymen  overland,  and 
even  if  they  had,  the  delay  in  announcing  their  condition 
and  receiving  back  supplies  would  be  too  great  j  their 
own  resources  were  fast  wasting  away  :  but,  above  all,  as 
the  British  flag  had  swept  every  sea — occupied  every 
port — and  penetrated  every  inlet,  they  were   in  daily 
apprehension  of  the  arrival  of  a  British  force  to  capture 
and  demolish  their  settlement,  and  seize  on  their  persons 
and  property.    Their  apprehensions  were  well-grounded, 
for  the  British  government  considered  them  as  enemies, 
and  despatched  a  ship-of-war  to  take  possession  of  Astoria. 
But  they  anticipated  such  a  visit,  and,  before  the  arvival 
of  the  ship,  had  sold  their  establishment,  whole  stock  in 
trade,  implements,  &e.,  to  the  Northwest  Company ;  some 
of  the  members  having  enlisted  in  the  service  of  this 
Company,  most  of  the  rest  having  returned  to  the  States. 
Thus  the  settlement  was  entirely  broken  up,  and  the  only 
duty  the  commander  had  to  perform  on  his  arrival,  was 
to  change  the  name  of  Astoria  into  that  of  Fort  George. 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


155 


CHAPTER  XV. 


Extension  of  the  British  to  the  north  of  the  mouth  of  the  Co- 
lumbia — Contrast  between  the  British  and  American  mode 
of  trading — Cape  Flattery — Native  tribes — The  country — 
Settlements  at  Nasqually  and  Cowlitze — Frazer's  River. 

The  extension  of  the  Company's  trade  northward,  along" 
the  line  of  coast  from  Cape  Flattery,  and  their  establish- 
ment of  a  chain  of  trading-stations,  coastwise  and  inland, 
became  the  necessary  consequence  of  their  mercantile 
importance,  enterprise,  and  rivalry  with  the  few  American 
traders  who  hovered  on  those  seas,  and  who,  by  intro- 
ducing* a  sort  of  buccaneering  commerce  with  the  natives, 
tended  much  to  the  demoralization  of  the  people,  and 
tended  but  little,  eventually,  to  the  profit  of  the  Americans 
themselves.     These  trading-stations,  therefore,  were  not 
established  more  for  the  objects  of  trade,  than  they  were 
for  the  purposes  of  civilization,   and,  while  they  have 
fully  ef?3cted  the  first   purpose,  they  are  gradually  and 
surely  effecting  the  other.      The  consequence  is — what 
may  be  expected  from  the  relative  position  and  conduct 
of  the  parties — the  Americans,  who   twenty  years  ago 
carried  on  an  extensive  trade  with  the  natives  (though  it 
was  not  on  their  side  conducted  on  the  soundest  priu- 
ciples  of  morality)  and  who  had  considerable  traffic  with 
the  Russians  in  their  positions  beyond  the  54th  degree  of 
latitude,  are  now  totally  shut  out  from  both.    Whereas 
tlie  British,  who  have  ever  dealt  liberally  and  honestly 
with  the  natives,  have  a  monopoly  of  the  native  trade, 
and  have  entered  into  such  a  contract  with  the  Russians 
that  they  may  be  said  to  have  a  monopoly  of  this  trade 
as  well. 
In  the  American  mode  of  commerce  with  the  natives 


156 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


there  was  no  unity  of  purpose — no  communion  of  interest 
— no  fraternity  of  feeling- — no  system — no  guiding  spirit 
to  direct  and  control  it;  but  it  was  a  loose,  dissipated, 
jealous  sort  of  thing — jealous,  not  only  of  British  rivalry, 
but  even  of  American  rivalry — and  eager  to  grasp  at  any 
artiqle  of  trade,  however  worthless,  and  by  any  means, 
however  unworthy ;  and  hence  losing  the  attainment  of 
important  objects.  But  the  Company's  mode  of  com. 
mcrce  was  the  very  reverse.  It  was  conducted  on  the  most 
judicious  and  most  methodical  principles,  and  was  guided 
by  one  master  spirit,  which  ruled  it  even  in  its  minutest 
operations,  and  absolutely  interdicted  the  practice  of  any 
effort  that  was  repugnant  to  justice — knowing  that  this 
would  eventually  recoil  on  themselves,  and  thus,  by  their 
example,  holding  out,  even  to  their  opponents,  a  practical 
lesson. 

The  Americans  were  not  so  much  rivals  of  the  Com. 
pany  as  they  were  of  one  another ;  indeed  they  could 
never  be  said  to  be,  in  the  strict  sense  of  the  word,  rivals 
of  the  Company,  for  they  had  not  the  power,  either  as  to 
capital,  union,  or  sound  notions  of  trade.  I  had  many 
opportunities  of  witnessing  this,  when  I  was  stationed  on 
the  northern  posts,  or  employed  in  the  Company's  trading 
ships  on  that  coast.  Some  of  these  maritime  American 
traders,  finding  their  own  independent  mode  of  trading  a 
failure,  have  sold  their  ships  to  the  Company,  and  enlisted 
in  it  as  salaried  servants  or  officers.  I  may  mention  one, 
— Capt.  William  M'Neil,  of  Boston,  commander  of  the 
brig  Lama.  This  gentleman  has  now,  under  the  Com- 
pany's principle  of  giving  promotion  as  the  reward  of 
merit,  risen  to  the  station  of  chief-trader.  Indeed  most 
of  the  American  traders  now  feel  it  their  interest,  if  not 
guided  by  any  sentiment  of  humanity,  and  conscientious 
duty,  to  follow  in  the  wake  of  the  Company, — to  imitate 
its  honest  and  prudent  mode  of  dealing, — to  conciliate 
its  good  opinion  by  this  imitation,  and  to  establish  among 
the  natives  the  persuasion  that  the  white  men  practise 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


157 


what  their  relijB^ious  men  inculcate^  i.  f.,  honest  dischnr^rc 
of  the  duties  of  this  life,  according  to  which  tlicrc  will  be 
a  commensurate  reward  hereafter.  This  is  the  invariable 
belief  of  the  native  tribes ;  and,  according  as  the  white 
men  swerve  from  or  follow  in  practice  this  great  maxim 
of  religion — a  maxim  which  is,  they  say,  the  foundation 
of  the  white  man's  theology — they  despise  and  hate,  or 
respect  and  trust  them.  While  I  would  shrink  from 
attributing  to  the  Americans,  as  a  great  national  com- 
munity of  civilized  men,  the  infamy  of  falsifying  in  prac- 
tice, their  professions  of  humanity,  justice,  and  freedom, 
yet  I  must,  as  the  honest  recorder  of  things  as  I  have 
seen  them,  say  that  the  American  traders,  taken  in  the  ag- 
gregate, in  the  Oregon,  have  not  either  corresponded  with 
those  principles  of  religion  which  even  their  own  mission- 
aries inculcate,  or  contributed  much  to  raise  the  moral 
reputation  of  white  men  in  the  estimation  of  the  natives. 
Their  general  conduct  has  come  upon  them  witii  the  re- 
tributive justice  of  its  own  reward.  They  are  hated  and 
distrusted  by  the  natives,  and  have  lost  the  great  object  of 
their  cupidity — the  trade. 

Along  the  coast  to  the  northw^ard,  after  leaving  Colum- 
bia River,  the  next  important  point  is  Cape  Flattery — the 
southern  entrance  to  Juan  de  Fuca  Straits.  The  natives 
inhabiting  this  part  are  the  Clatset  tribe.  They  have  not 
been  so  much  affected  with  the  fever  and  ague  as  the 
Chinooks,  and  therefore  are  more  n  imerous.  Salmon, 
and  all  kinds  of  wild-fowl,  are  plentiful.  The  natives 
manufacture  some  of  their  blankets  from  the  wool  of  the 
wild  goat ;  which  is  dcac  with  great  neatness.  The  sea- 
otter  is  plentiful  about  these  parts.  The  mode  usually 
adopted  in  killing  it  is  this :  the  natives,  or  the  half- 
breeds,  who  now  adopt  all  the  customs  of  the  natives,  row 
out  to  the  parts  frequented  by  this  animal,  whose  habits 
resemble  those  of  the  seal.  Two  men  manage  the  canoe, 
while  a  third  stands  ready:  and  the  moment  the  otter 
rises  to  the  surface  he  is  unerringly  shot.    When  he  feels 

14 


158 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


himself  hit  he  dives,  and  the  boatmen  dart  after  him,  well 
aware  of  the  direction  he  will  take ;  and  keep  pace  with 
him  until  he  rises  again.  Then,  unless  he  floats  a  dead 
carcass,  he  is  a  second  time  shot,  and  the  chase  is  re- 
newed, until  he  is  at  last  killed.  He  is  then  hauled  into 
the  boat.  Sometimes  a  sort  of  screen  is  erected  on  the 
shore,  behind  whicltthe  marksman  lurks,  and,  when  the 
animal  comes  to  bask  on  the  sands  or  the  rocks,  he  is  shot. 

The  Clatset  Indians  disfigure  themselves  by  running 
bone  rings,  and  other  ornaments,  through  the  lower  divi. 
sion  of  the  nose,  and  flatten  their  heads  similar  to  the 
Chinooks  and  the  Indians  of  the  lower  Columbia,  and 
exhibit  all  the  leading  characteristics.  The  country  here 
is  covered  with  pine  trees. 

The  south  side  of  the  straits  from  Cape  Flattery  takes 
a  southeasterly  direction.  On  the  south  side,  and  at  some 
distance  from  the  cape,  there  is  a  beautiful  harbour,  called 
New  Dungeness.  The  country  is  high  and  woody, 
chiefly  covered  with  pine  trees.  In  the  background 
there  are  very  high  mountains,  the  tops  of  which  are  com- 
pletely enveloped  in  snow.  The  land  by  the  shore  is  low 
and  sandy,  although  high  in  the  interior ;  yet  there  are 
beautiful  plains,  apparently  as  if  they  had  been  cleared  by 
hand,  which  yield  excellent  pasturage,  and  are  capable  cf 
high  cultivation. 

Further  along  the  south  shore  there  is  another  beautiful 
harbour,  called  by  commander  Broughton,  Port  Discovery ; 
and  as  a  shelter  for  this  harbour  from  the  northwest  winds 
there  is  an  island  close  by,  called  Protection  Island.  The 
land  on  this  part  of  the  straits  abounds  with  deer  and 
wild-fowl,  and  the  waters  with  fish.  The  shores  round 
the  harbour  are  low  and  sandy,  in  summer  covered  with 
bushes,  growing  all  kinds  of  berries.  The  Indians  are 
not  numerous ;  and,  like  the  Chinooks,  are  rather  dirty, 
the  women  bedaubing  themselves  with  salmon  oil,  and 
vermilion  clay.  Besides  these  harbours  there  are  several 
beautiful  islands,  at  intervening  distances,  up  the  straits. 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


159 


The  country  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Port  Discovery  is 
moderately  high,  bounded  on  the  west  by  mountains, 
'i'hc  land,  from  the  watcr-side,  rises  gradually  ;  and  is 
generally  considered  good.  The  wood  is  chiefly  hemlock, 
which  grows  to  a  great  height,  pine,  poplar,  oak,  and  ash. 

A  lew  miles  further  up  the  straits,  and  from  the  north 
shore,  there  runs  an  inlet,  called  Admiralty  Inlet.  Up 
along  this  inlet,  the  country  is  beautiful ;  displaying 
plains  interspersed  with  trees.  Vancouver  says,  "  To 
describe  the  beauties  of  this  region,  will,  on  some  future 
occasion,  be  a  very  grateful  task  to  the  pen  of  a  skilful 
panegyrist."  The  Indians  in  this  neighbourhood  resemble 
tile  other  southern  tribes. 

Keeping  along  the  straits,  you  approach  Puget's  Sound, 
running  to  the  southward.  Nearly  at  the  southern  ex- 
tremity  of  this  Sound,  the  Company  has  stationed  a  fort, 
called  Fort  Nasqually,  This  place  was  governed  by  a 
Mr.  Kitson,  in  my  time :  he  formerly  was  a  lieutenant  in 
a  Canadian  regiment,  during  the  last  American  war,  and 
then  obtained  distinction.  His  wife  was  the  daughter  of 
the  Red-head  chief,  M'Donnel ;  about  whose  adventures 
many  stories  are  told.  This  fort  is  surrounded  by  an  ex- 
tensive  prairie  country.  The  Company  has  a  large  farm 
here,  for  growing  wheat,  and  other  kinds  of  grain,  pota- 
toes, and  all  sorts  of  vegetables.  They  have  also  esta- 
hlished  there  an  extensive  grazing  farm,  and  sheep  walk. 
The  land  is  rather  stony,  but  well  adapted  for  a  grazing 
farm. 

The  Company's  agricultural  and  grazing  projects  here, 
which  are  on  a  large  scale,  are  every  day  extending  and 
improving.  Besides  all  this,  an  association  has  been 
formed,  on  a  large  scale,  for  the  purpose  of  rearing  sheep, 
and  laying  the  commencement  of  an  extensive  foreign 
wool  trade.  I  have  recently  had  a  communication  from 
that  country,  respecting  this  settlement ;  and  the  result  is 
very  satisfactory.  The  numerous  flocks  of  sheep  are 
thriving  admirably ;  and  there  is  every  prospect  of  large 
exportations  of  wool,  in  a  short  time. 


160 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


Some  of  the  natives  licrc  live  in  the  plains,  and  others 
on  the  banks  of  the  Sound.  Botli  these  observe  a  marked 
aversion  to  mutual  incorporation,  and  confine  themselves 
to  their  distinct  localities :  the  plain  tribes  not  approach, 
ing  the  Sound ;  and  the  tribes  bordering  on  the  Sound  not 
extending  their  rovings  into  the  plains.  Tliis  is  the 
general  rule.  The^r  habits  and  food  are  in  conformity 
with  their  condition :  the  one  arc  fishers — the  other, 
hunters,  living  on  roots,  dried,  pounded,  and  kneaded  into 
cakes  ;  and  on  deer's  flesh.  All  this  country,  both  mari- 
time  and  inland,  abounds  in  all  sorts  of  game — geese, 
ducks,  plovers,  partridges,  &c.  These  are  not  only  used 
for  food ;  but  are  bartered  with  the  Company's  servants, 
for  articles  of  use  and  ornament ;  such  as  blankets,  to- 
bacco, ammunition,  and  trinkets. 

From  this  fort,  to  obviate  the  necessity  of  passing  up 
tlie  Sound,  then  westward  along  the  Fuca  Straits,  and 
thence  southward  to  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia,  and 
crossing  the  bar  in  a  vessel,  there  is  a  portage  way  across 
the  land;  the  distance  being  about  ninety  miles  from 
here  to  the  banks  of  the  Cowlitze  River.  Tliis  river  runs 
from  the  northern  interior  into  the  Columbia,  about  forty- 
nine  miles  below  Vancouver,  in  a  southwesterly  direction. 
At  the  end  of  this  portage,  on  the  river's  banks,  the  re- 
tired  servants  of  the  Company  are  again  numerously 
locating  themselves,  and  forming  an  exclusively  British 
settlement;  as,  at  the  Wallamette,  the  original  settlers 
belonging  to  the  Company's  service  were  introduced  on — 
and,  in  a  great  measure,  swamped — by  the  Americans. 
This  settlement  is  about  eighty  miles  from  Vancouver, 
and  ninety  from  Nasqually ;  making  it  about  one  hundred 
and  seventy  miles  by  portage,  from  Nasqually  to  Van- 
couver. It  promises  great  success.  The  settlers  all 
fraternise  with  each  other — are  experienced  and  entor- 
prising  men — are  well  acquainted  with  the  whole  region 
of  the  Oregon,  throughout  its  length  and  breadth — arc 
attached  to  the  interests  of  the  Company — and  are  proud, 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


IGl 


river  runs 


and  tranquil,  every  man  of  tlicni,  in  livinpf  under  ilic 
secure  and  unchangeable  protection  of  British  power,  and 
iii'itish  laws. 

The  first  settlers  were  two  Canadians,  Faneault  and 
Plomondcau,  active  and  enterprisinir  men  belonging*  to  the 
Company.  Their  contracts  having  expired,  and  they 
wishing  to  become  farmers,  were  encouraged  by  Dr. 
M'Loughlin  in  their  project  to  settle  on  the  banks  of  the 
Cowlitze,  rather  than  on  the  Wallan.ette ;  as  in  this  place 
they  were  more  likely  to  be  under  the  exclusive  protection 
of  the  Company.  They  were  first  rate  axe-meriy  capable, 
each,  of  cutting  the  astonishing  quantity  of  six  cords  of 
wood  per  day  with  ease.  They  were,  while  in  the  Com- 
pany's service,  overseers  of  the  men  employed  in  the 
erection  of  the  wooden  forts  throughout  the  district.  I 
mention  tlieir  names,  as  the  meritorious  founders  of  a 
community,  which  promises  so  much  prosperity,  deserve 
to  be  recorded. 

Frazer's  River  rises  in  the  Rocky  Mountains,  between 
latitudes  55°  and  56°  north,  near  the  source  of  Canoe 
River  (which  is  the  first  large  tributary  of  the  Columbia, 
after  the  latter  issues  from  its  source ;  and  at  first  runs 
about  northwest  for  a  distance  of  about  eighty  miles.  It 
then  takes  a  southern  direction,  receiving  the  waters  of 
Stuart's  River,  which  rises  in  one  of  the  chains  of  lakes 
that  abound  in  New  Caledonia.  It  continues  its  southern 
course  by  west,  receiving  the  waters  of  the  Chileotin, 
Pinklitsa,  and  several  other  minor  rivers  flowing  from 
the  lakes  or  hills  of  t!ie  west ;  and  also  the  waters  of 
Thompson's  River,  Quisnell's  River,  and  otiiers  which 
iiow  into  it  from  the  east.  In  parallel  49°  it  breaks 
through  the  Cascade  range  of  mountains  in  a  succession 
of  falls  and  rapids,  and,  running  westward  about  seventy 
miles,  is  emptied  into  the  Gulf  of  Georgia,  in  49°  07' 
north.  During  this  latter  part  of  its  course,  for  about 
seventy  miles,  it  is  navigable  for  vessels,  after  passing  its 
bar,  tliat  draw  twelve  feet  of  water.    Its  whole  length  is 

14* 


162 


OREGON  TF.RRITORV. 


about  four  liundrcd  niilos.  The  country  a\ong  its  lower 
section  iu  hilly,  and  covered  with  forests  of  white  pine, 
cedar,  and  other  cvcrjrreen  trees ;  and  the  soil  is,  gene, 
rally,  well  fitted  for  pasturajrr^  and,  in  many  places,  for 
tillage.  Jiut  along  the  other,  and  more  southern,  sections, 
the  country  is  more  ungenial  and  unproductive ;  being 
cut  up  by  mountains,  ravines,  torrents,  lakes,  and  marshes. 
Yet  it  is  well  wooded ;  yielding  all  the  varieties  of  trees 
growing  in  that  region — fir,  spruce,  pine,  poplar,  willow, 
cedar,  cypress,  birch,  and  alder. 

Tiie  climate  is  very  variable ;  and  the  transitions  are, 
though  periodically  regular,  remarkably  sudden,  if  not 
violent.  During  tiic  spring,  wliich  lasts  from  April  till 
June,  the  weather,  and  the  face  of  the  country,  are  de- 
lightful. In  June,  there  arc  almost  incessant  rains, 
drifted  furiously  along  by  a  strong  south  wind.  In  July 
and  August,  the  heat  is  intense ;  and  the  ground,  previ- 
ously  saturated  with  moisture,  produces  myriads  of  an- 
noying flies  and  insects.  This  heat,  and  glaring  sun. 
shine,  are  succeeded,  in  September,  by  fogs  of  such  pal- 
pable darkness,  that,  until  noon,  it  is  seldom  possible  to 
distinguish  objects,  at  a  longer  distance  than  one  hundred 
yards.  In  November,  the  winter  sets  in,  speedily  freezing 
the  lakes  and  smaller  rivers.  The  cold,  however,  is  not 
so  intense  as  might  be  imagined  in  such  a  country  and 
climate. 

In  the  interior,  and  upper  country,  the  Company  have 
forts  in  different  parts  stretching  from  the  forty -eightli 
degree  of  latitude  to  the  fifly-eighth,  and  have  formed 
numerous  establishments.  The  following  are  the  names 
of  sOiHe  of  the  principal  forts.  Okanagan,  Thompson's 
Fort,  Fort  St.  James,  Fort  Alexander,  M*Lcod's  Fort, 
Frazer's  Fort.  I  should  observe  that  Fort  Langley  is 
twenty  miles  from  the  river's  mouth.  Trees  in  this  dis- 
trict arc  plentiful;  but  in  most  parts  provisions  are 
scarce ;  and  at  such  an  immense  distance  from  Van- 
couver they  cannot  be  Carried  in  large  quantities,  the 


ORRGON  TERRITOnr. 


IG3 


tninsportation  being'  by  land  and  horses.  Mr.  Peter 
Skine  (>;rdcn  is  the  pfovcrnor  of  this  vast  district.  Th(; 
principal  food  is  sahnon  and  various  other  fish ;  edibk* 
land  animals  and  wild-fowl  arc  scarce. 

The  (iulf  of  (Jeoraria  is  connected  with  Johnson's 
Straits,  and  divides  Vancouver's  Island  from  the  uiain 
land.  At  the  northeast  end  of  the  island  there  is  a  nu- 
mcrous  tribe  called  the  C'oquilths.  The  beaver  and  sea- 
otter  arc  plentiful,  as  well  as  tho  hallibut  fish,  deer,  and 


game. 


I  may  here  mention,  that  on  my  next  expedition  to  this 
coast,  in  my  former  capacity  of  trader  and  interpreter — 
while  Mr.  Finlayson  commanded  as  ch'mf  factor — in  The 
ncavcr,  tradinjnr  sfenm-ship^  which  ancliored  in  this  place, 
we  made  a  very  important  discovery — a  rich  mine  of  coal 
near  tho  surface.  The  cause  of  the  discovery  was  as 
curious  as  the  discovery  itself  was  important.  Some  of 
the  natives  at  Fort  MTiOughlin  having",  on  coming  to  the 
fort  for  traffic,  observed  coal  burning  in  the  furnace  of 
tlie  blacksmiths  ;  and  in  their  natural  spirit  of  curiosity 
made  several  inquiries  about  it ;  they  were  told  that  it 
was  the  best  kind  of  fuel ;  and  that  it  was  brought  over 
the  great  salt  lake — six  months*  journey.  They  looked 
surprised;  and,  in  spite  of  their  habitual  gravity,  laughed 
and  capered  about.  The  servants  of  the  fort  were  sur- 
])rised  at  their  unusual  antics,  and  inquired  the  cause. 
The  Indians  explained,  saying,  that  they  had  changed, 
in  a  great  measure,  their  opinions  of  the  white  men, 
whom  they  thought  endowed  by  the  Great  Spirit  with 
the  power  of  effecting  great  and  useful  objects  ;  as  it  was 
evident  they  were  not  then  influenced  by  his  wisdom,  in 
bringing  such  a  vast  distance  and  at  so  much  cost  that 
hlack  soft  stone^  which  was  in  such  abundance  in  their 
country.  They  then  pointed  out  where  it  could  be  found 
of  the  richest  quality  close  by  the  surface,  rising  in  hil- 
locks, and  requiring  very  little  labour  to  dig  it  out.  This 
intelligence  having  been  reported  at  Vancouver,  we  re- 


164 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


i:    i 


ceived  instructions  to  make  the  necessary  inquiries  and 
explorations.  Mr.  Finlayson  with  a  part  of  the  crew, 
went  on  shore,  leaving  me  in  tlie  ship,  to  conduct  the 
trade ;  and  after  some  inquiries  and  a  small  distribution 
of  rewards,  found,  from  the  natives,  that  the  original  ac 
count  given  at  Fort  M'Louglilin  was  true.  The  coal 
turned  out  to  be  of  excellent  quality,  running  in  exten- 
sive fields,  and  even  in  clumpy  mounds,  and  most  easily 
worked  all  along  that  part  of  the  country. 

The  natives  were  anxious  that  we  should  employ  them 
to  work  the  coal ;  to  this  we  consented,  and  agreed  to 
give  them  a  certain  sum  for  each  large  box.  The  natives 
being  so  numerous,  and  labour  so  cheap,  for  us  to  attempt 
to  work  the  coal  would  have  been  madness.  They  were 
greatly  surprised  when  they  first  saw  the  steamboat,  say. 
ing  she  could  do  any  thing  but  speak ;  and  the  v/hite  man 
must  have  been  assisted  in  the  work  by  the  Great  Spirit. 
The  Company  has,  since  I  left  the  country,  established  a 
large  cattle  farm  in  this  island. 

The  country  here,  is,  in  point  of  beautiful  scenery  and 
fertility  of  the  plains,  although  not  so  large,  even  supe- 
rior to  the  Wallamette  valley.  It  has  beautiful  runs  of 
water,  and  clumps  and  groves  of  trees,  of  various  kinds, 
scattered  through  the  level  lands — pine,  oak,  cedar,  and 
spruce.       ! 

A  little  further  along  the  straits  from  the  Coquilths, 
and  at  the  northern  extremity  of  the  island,  is  the  Ne- 
wettee  tribe.  This  tribe,  which  now  is  ratiier  pacific  in 
its  character,  and  not  physically  powerful,  has  been  re- 
duced to  a  skeleton  of  its  former  self,  from  the  inroads  of 
the  savages  who  come  from  the  northern  and  eastern  con- 
tinent  to  kidnap  them,  when  on  tlieir  fisliing  excursions, 
and  then  enslave  them. 

Some  years  ago  an  American  vessel,  which  drifted  on 
shore  in  foul  weather,  and  through  bad  pilotage,  was  cut 
ofiT  here  by  the  natives ;  and  all  hands  were  murdered, 
with  the   exception  of  the   armourer    and    sail-maker. 


Ill 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


165 


These  they  spared,  thinking  they  would  be  of  service  to 
them.  They  compelled  them  to  join  in  their  war  parties. 
One  of  them  soon  died.  Should  a  vessel  come  in  to  trade, 
they  would  not  allow  the  survivor  to  g-o  on  board.  But 
after  several  years  had  past  in  this  miserable  slavery,  an 
American  vessel  came  in  to  trade ;  and  the  survivor  ma- 
naged to  make  his  condition  known  to  the  captain.  The 
captain  enticed  several  of  the  chiefs  on  board — placed 
them  in  safe  keepinsf ;  and  told  them  then,  that  unless 
they  gave  up  the  white  man  in  their  possession,  he  would 
run  them  up  to  the  yard-arm.  This  intimidated  them. 
The  poor  fellow  was  soon  brought  on  board,  to  the  great 
delight  of  the  ship's  company. 

The  length  of  the  gulf  and  straits  from  Point  Mudgc 
is  upwards  of  one  hundred  miles.  The  channel,  although 
narrow,  is  free  from  rocks  and  shoals,  but  in  some  parts  a 
most  tremendous  current  runs.  The  land,  in  some  places, 
both  on  the  main  land  and  the  island,  is  very  lofty ;  co- 
vered  with  pine-trees,  actually  growing  out  of  hare  rocks. 
The  natives  of  this  island  amount  in  number  to  upwards 
of  five  thousand.  Their  houses  are  large,  and  are  thus 
constructed.  Immense  logs  are  driven  into  the  ground 
with  large  rafters,  for  the  roof,  placed  in  a  slanting  direc- 
tion. The  roof  is  covered  with  immense  cedar  boards, 
split  from  cedar-trees  with  wooden  wedges  made  from 
knots  of  trees,  and  the  sides  aref  of  cedar  likewise,  with 
curious  figures,  resembling  men  and  animals,  fantasti- 
cally painted  on  them.  Some  of  the  principal  houses  will 
accommodate  from  two  to  three  hundred  people. 

The  chiefs  often,  in  the  winter  months,  give  feasts  to 
their  people.  The  food  consists  of  dog,  seal,  and  whale- 
blubber,  with  berries,  &c. 

They  manufacture  blankets  made  from  the  inside  bark 
of  the  cedar-tree.  This  is  soaked  in  water  for  several 
days,  then  beaten  between  two  pieces  of  bone.  They  set 
the  thigh-bone  of  a  deer,  or  a  bone  of  similar  size  and 
strength,  firmly,  in  a  horizontal  position,  in  a  stand ;  on 


166 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


this  they  lay  a  larg^c  piece  of  bark,  and  iiccp  bcalijijr  ji 
until  it  becomes  soil  like  hemp.  It  is  then  woven  togc- 
ther,  and  dyed  with  various  figures  upon  it.  Tiicy  make 
their  dye  from  roots.  The  blanket  takes  two  women  ten 
days  to  complete.  *     • 

Gulls  arc  very  numerous  about  this  place,  as  there  aro 
several  rocky  islets.  Three  or  four  of  these  lyinjr  near 
the  north  end  of  the  island  are  called  Scott's  Islands!.  By 
j^oing  on  shore  in  the  months  of  June  and  July,  in  a  short 
time  bushels  of  cg^gs  may  be  gathered  on  them. 

Nootka  Sound  is  to  the  west  side  of  Vancouver's  Island, 
in  the  49°  of  latitude.  The  Company's  vessels  seldom 
visit  this  place  for  traffic,  as  there  is  now  scarcely  any 
fur  to  be  found  there.  The  land  is  high  and  woody, 
principally  covered  with  large  pines.  And  the  natives 
resemble  the  more  southern  tribes  in  their  customs,  and 
general  character. 

At  Millbank  Sound,  in  June,  1833,  the  Company  com- 
menced  building  a  fort,  and  were  assisted  by  the  crews 
of  the  vessels  Dryad  and  Lama ;  the  former  commanded 
by  Captain  Kipling,  the  latter  by  Captain  M'Neil.  The 
land-department  was  superintended  by  Mr.  Donald  Man- 
son,  assisted  by  a  Mr.  Anderson,  and  myself;  Mr,  An- 
derson superintending  the  men.  I  had  charge  of  the 
Indian-department ;  and  with  a  complement  of  between 
forty  and  fifty  Canadians  and  Scotchmen,  set  actively  to 
work.  The  point  pitched  upon,  was  a  bay  about  twenty 
miles  up  the  Sound,  in  latitude  52"^  6'.  When  the  men 
first  went  on  shore,  it  was  like  entering  an  impenetrable 
forest.  They  had  not  been  there  long  before  the  trees 
began  to  fall;  and  in  a  few  days  a  large  open  space 
showed  itself.  A  place  was  soon  cleared  for  tents  to  be 
pitched ;  and  in  the  course  of  a  month  or  two  sufficient 
ground  was  cleared  for  the  erection  of  \he  pickets,  or 
posts,  which  are  eighteen  feet  high,  placed  close  together, 
lor  the  inclosure  of  the  fort.  These  answer  instead  of 
brickwork.    As  soon  as  the  enclosure  was  finished,  we 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


167 


npany  com- 


despatched  the  brig  Dryad  to  the  southward,  tlie  Lama 
having"  previously  left. 

During  the  Dryad's  stay  with  us,  our  men  nearly  came 
to  battle  with  the  Indians.  One  of  tlie  saiJora  cutting 
wood,  on  shore,  had  his  axe  stolen ;  and  to  oi»ta";n  it,  an- 
other of  the  men  took  a  blanket  from  an  Indian.  This 
exasperated  the  natives ;  and  they  gave  their  signal. 
The  Indians  then  began  to  muster  from  all  quarters,,  fur. 
nished  with  fire-arms,  knives,  and  axes ;  some  of  them 
taking  position  amongst  the  trees — others  on  the  beach. 
Our  land  party  being  exposed  to  them,  Mr.^  Manson 
thought  it  prudent  to  come  to  a  parley  ;  and  hostilities 
ceased. 

After  the  Dryad  left,  we  pursued  our  work :  the  build- 
ing of  the  fort  progressed  with  great  vigour ;  and  daring- 
its  erection,  we  pushed  on  a  brisk  trade  in  furs.  I  was 
appointed  to  the  post  of  trader,  acting  under  Mr.  Manson, 
as  governor  of  the  fort.  My  instructions-  were  to  lower 
the  price  of  skins ;  give  in  payment  useful,  substantial, 
and  lasting  articles ;  and  endeavour  to  do  away,  if  possi- 
ble, with  the  injurious  and  degrading  article  of  spirits,  as 
a  medium  of  barter :  as  the  American  vessels  had  pre- 
viously  been  here,  and  had  given  immense  prices,  and 
sold  spirits,  so  that  the  Company's  vessels  should  be 
debarred  from  the  whole  trade.  This  exasperated  the 
Indians  against  me ;  and  they  gave  me  the  name  of 
" ShloapeSj^  i.  «.,  " stingy  r"  and  when  near  them,  if  I 
should  spit,  they  would  run  and  try  to  take  up  the  spittle 
in  something ;  for,  according  as  they  afterwards  informed 
me,  they  intended  to  give  it  to  their  doctor  or  magician ; 
and  he  would  charm  my  life  away.  But  they  were 
much  disappointed  to  find  me  there  for  sixteen  montiis 
afterwards. 

Every  thing  went  on  favourably  until  the  month  of 
October;  when,  to  our  surprise,  one  of  our  men  desertod 
and  joined  these  savages.  He  was  a  Canadian.  And, 
us  we  were  given  to  understand  that  he  was  with  one 


168 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


of  tiic  tribes  in  the  ncijrlibourliood  of  the  fort,  called 
"  Kyetc's  tribe"  (K'yctc  beinn-  the  cliicl\s  iiainc — but 
nicknamed  by  an  Ariicrican  captain,  Boston)^  we  sent  for 
this  cliief :  but  previous,  liowever,  to  this,  wc  offered  to 
givo  them  blankets,  ammunition,  and  other  articles,  if 
tliey  would  brings  him  back  ;  but  to  no  purpose.  We, 
therefore,  knowing'  the  value  the  natives  set  on  their 
chief,  dt^taincd  him  in  the  fort,  thinking-  this  would  in- 
duce them  to  come  to  terms  :  and  we  informed  them  un- 
less our  man  was  given  up,  we  should  send  their  chief  to 
the  governor  at  Vancouver.  During  this  time  wc  were 
living  in  the  enclosure,  which  was  not  farther  than  ten 
feet  from  an  impenetrable  wood,  in  boarded,  temporary 
houses  and  tents.  The  bastions  were  built,  but  we  had 
not  our  big  guns  properly  placed.  Having  so  many  men 
in  the  fort,  our  water  became  scarce ;  and  to  get  more, 
wc  were  obliged  to  go  one  hundred  and  twenty  yards 
from  the  barrier. 

On  a  particular  day,  seeing  no  Indians  about,  we  pro- 
posed  to  allow  some  of  the  men  to  go  out  with  buckets  to 
get  water.  Mr.  Anderson  and  myself  went  outside  to 
sec  after  them,  while  Mr.  Manson  kept  a  look-out  within 
the  enclosure,  from  a  high  temporary  watch-tower.  We 
had  not  been  out  many  minutes,  when,  looking  around 
the  bay,  and  on  a  point  of  land  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
to  tlie  soutliward,  we  perceived  a  fire.  At  that  instant, 
several  Indians  rose  up — gave  the  war-whoop,  and  the 
fort  was  then  surrounded  with  hundreds  of  these  savages, 
— some  armed  with  knives,  others  with  guns  and  axes. 
Mr.  Manson  cried  out,  to  arms.  Mr.  Anderson  and  my- 
self rushed  as  fast  as  possible  to  the  fort,  and  then  to  the 
bastions ;  from  whence  wc  commenced  firing,  along  with 
the  men  that  remained  in  the  fort.  This  threw  the  In- 
dians into  confusion,  and  made  them  retreat,  with  some 
loss  of  life,  into  the  woods.  The  whole  of  our  outside  men 
escaped  unhurt  into  the  fort,  with  the  exception  of  two. 
One  of  these  was  a  lialf-breed,  wlio  was  surrounded  by 


m 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


16!) 


eight  Indians.     He  was  cut  in  the  shoulder  severely  by 
an  axe  aimed  at  his  head ;  afler  this  blow  he  manag-ed  to 
wrest  the  axe  from  the  Indian,  and  keep  his  assailants  at 
bay ;  but  another  Indian  cominof  up  with  a  g-un,  was  in 
tlie  act  of  shooting-  him,  when  Mr.  Anderson  rushed  to 
the  fort-gate,  and,  with  his  rifle,  shot  the  Indian.     The 
others  decamped,  and  the  half-breed  made  his  way  into 
the  fort.     The  other,  a  Canadian,  had,  before   the  dis- 
turbance, fallen  down,  with  an  axe  in  his  hand,  which 
had  injured  him.    This  man  they  took  prisoner;  drag-g-ing 
him,  face  downwards,  to  the  water-side,  and  placed  him, 
tied  hands  and  feet,  in  a  canoe  ;  it  being  that  night  their 
full  intention,  had  we  not  their  chief  in  custody,  to  iiavc 
burned  him.     During  tlie   night  they   kept   up   a  con- 
tinual whoop  and  firing  of  guns ;  but  kept  a  long  distance 
from  the  fort,  fearing  we  should  get  our  big  guns  to  bear 
upon  them.     Having  this  poor  fellow  in  their  possession 
all  night,  they  brought  him  in  the  morning  under  the 
fort,  and  announced  a  desire  to  speak  to  us :  and  finding 
their  chief  was  safe,  said  if  we  would  give  their  chief 
freedom  they  would  return  our  man.     The  deserter  they 
persisted  they  knew  nothing  of.     Finding  we  could  not 
get  back  the  deserter,  we   proposed  to  give  them  tlieir 
chief,  provided  our  man,  whom  they  had  taken  prisoner, 
was  returned  ;  and  likewise  we  proposed  that  they  should 
give  us  two  inferior  chiefs  as  hostages.     This  was  done 
for  a  guarantee,  to  prevent  any  of  our  men  from  being 
attacked  by  them,  in  case  they  were  compelled  to  go  out 
of  the  fort.     This  was  agreed  to.     The  chief  having  been 
let  free,  our  Canadian  returned  next  morning;  and  the 
two  Indians  were  kept  as  hostages  to  insure  safety  to 
our  men  on  quitting  the  fort  for  business.     The  Indians 
requested  us  to  hoist  our  flag,  as  a  signal  of  peace.    They 
informed  us,  that  one  or  two  Indians  had  been  wounded 
in  the   previous  conflict,  and   wished  to  know  if  they 
came,   since   peace   had   been   proclaimed,   whether  we 
would  dress  their  wounds ;  to  this  also  we  willingly  con- 

15 


170 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


■;fi; 


scnted,  and  the  patients  were  restored  quite  recovered. 
This  conduct  on  our  part,  in  receiving  and  healing  their 
v/ounded,  made  a  very  favourable  impression  on  themt 
and  they  exhibited  every  pacific  disposition.  We  kept, 
however,  within  the  fort  for  several  weeks,  until  tlieir 
vindictive  feeling  would  completely  have  cooled  down; 
and  by  that  time  we  became  mutual  friends.  Trade  then 
again  commenced  at  a  brisk  rate ;  and  we  went  on  build- 
ing  and  clearing  ground  as  usual,  for  the  completion  of 
the  fort,  and  the  preparation  of  our  little  farm.  As  I 
began  to  speak  their  language,  so  I  increased  in  favour 
with  them. 

These  Indians  differ  greatly  from  the  southern  tribes 
in  the  prominence  of  their  countenances  and  the  regu- 
larity of  their  features,  thus  resembling  the  northern 
Europeans.  They  are  rather  dirty,  using  quantities  of 
oil  for  the  hair,  and  daub  their  faces  with  vermilion :  this 
they  use  from  their  infancy.  The  shores  here  are  high, 
and  covered  with  trees.  A  little  way  in  the  interior  are 
patches  of  plains,  but  rocky  and  covered  with  short  grass 
and  moss.  In  the  neighbourhood,  the  wood  consists  of 
pine,  hemlock,  cedar,  spruce,  small  fruit,  crab,  birch,  and 
various  kinds  of  berry  bushes.  The  Indians  are  nume- 
rous, and  divided  into  three  different  tribes.  Tiie  chiefs 
are  Wacash,  Oyellow,  and  Kyete.  Hallibut  and  r^almon 
abound  here — the  salmon  far  inferior,  and  much  smaller 
than  the  Columbia  salmon — herrings,  too,  are  found  there 
in  abundance  :  the  spawn  is  gathered  by  the  natives,  and 
dried  on  sea-leaves  for  their  winter  provision.  They  like- 
wise take  the  tender  rind  from  the  inside  of  the  hemlock 
tree,  and  pound  it  into  cakes,  which  they  dry  in  the  sun. 
The  salmon  is  split  down  the  back,  and  smoked,  and 
dried  for  winter.  Blankets  are  made,  by  the  women, 
from  cedar  bark,  in  the  same  way  as  those  made  by  the 
Coquilths,  already  mentioned.  They  have  several  vil- 
lages  that  they  shift  to  at  different  seasons  of  the  year. 
Their  winter  villages  are  strong  built  houses,  particularly 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


171 


those  belonging  to  the  chiefs.  Here,  as  well  as  in  John- 
son's  Straits,  the  chiefs  entertain,  at  a  public  feast,  the 
members  of  their  several  tribes.  At  these  feasts  the  men 
sit  on  benches  ranged  on  one  side,  near  the  wall,  and  the 
women  arc  rang;ed  opposite  them.  They  also  give  public 
entertainments  to  the  chiefs  of  the  more  inland  tribes. 

In  their  marriages,  the  Indian  taking  a  wife,  generally 
makes  her  friends  presents, — a  war  canoe,  dressed  elk 
skins,  beaver  skins,  and  English  goods,  such  as  blankets, 
ammunition,  &c.,  receiving  presents  from  her  friends  in 
return.  On  the  wedding-day  they  have  a  public  feast, 
at  which  they  dance  and  sing,  sometimes  in  separate 
groups,  sometimes  all  dance  and  sing  together — men  and 
women.  In  their  singing,  which  is  a  sort  of  irregular 
ehaunt,  they  all  keep  to  the  same  key,  and  therefore  it  is 
not  easy  to  distinguish  any  individual  excellence  among 
them.  In  their  dances  they  throw  their  bodies  into  a 
variety  of  fantastic  attitudes,  and  move  their  hands, 
keeping  time  to  the  music.  On  these  occasions  they  are 
decked  oflf  in  their  best  dresses  and  ornaments.  They 
have  one  curious  custom  in  their  dances :  at  stated 
periods,  they  keep  puffing  from  a  painted  tube,  one  end 
of  which  is  inserted  in  the  mouth,  the  other  pointed  up- 
wards, quantities  of  fine  down,  which  flies  about  their 
heads,  presenting  the  imitation  of  a  snow  shower. 

In  the  winter  months  these,  as  well  as  the  neighbour- 
ing tribes,  assemble  in  great  numbers  in  the  chief's 
house,  for  the  purpose  of  witnessing  the  chief  imitate 
different  spirits,  whom  they  are  supposed  to  worship. 
He  puts  on,  at  intervals,  different  dresses,  and  large 
masks,  of  different  kinds,  entirely  covering  his  head  and 
neck.  The  masks  are  made  to  open  the  mouth  and  eyes 
by  means  of  secret  springs,  invisible  to  the  spectators, 
and  different  noises  are  sent  forth.  He  dresses  for  each 
character  behind  a  large  curtain,  drawn  quite  across  the 
room,  like  the  drop  curtain  in  a  theatre,  and  then  comes 
forth,  and  stands  on  a  sort  of  stage  in  front  of  it,  while 


172 


OREGON  TERRITORV. 


r.,-u 


the  spectators  are  rangfed  on  l>cnches  placed  alonjSf  tlio 
side-walls.  In  one  of  liis  characters  lie  imitates  tlie 
rising  sun,  which  they  believe  to  be  a  shining  man,  wear- 
ing"  a  radiated  crown,  and  continually  walking  round  the 
earth,  which  is  stationary.  He  wears,  on  this  occasion, 
a  most  splendid  dress  of  ermine,  and  other  valuable  furs, 
and  a  curiously  constructed  mask,  set  round  with  seals^ 
whiskers,  and  feathers,  which  gradually  expand  like  a 
fan  ;  and  from  the  top  of  the  mask  swan-down  is  shaken 
out  in  great  quantities,  according  as  he  moves  his  head. 
The  expanding  seals*  bristles,  and  feathers  represent  the 
sun's  rays,  and  the  showers  of  down,  rain  and  snow  :  tlic 
Indians  chaunting  at  the  same  time,  in  regular  order  and 
in  a  low  key,  showing  reverence,  devotion,  and  awe. 

Sometimes  the  various  divine  personages  are  repre. 
sented  by  one  man;  sometimes  there  are  two  or  three 
personators  on  tlie  stage  all  at  once,  representing  different 
divinities.  Our  men  were  often  invited  to  witness  these 
religious  exhibitions ;  but  the  greatest  silence,  attention, 
and  decorum  were  expected  from  them.  Our  attendance 
they  considered  a  high  compliment ;  and  they  invariably 
made  us  presents,  generally  of  skins,  before  we  departed.. 
One  of  our  people,  a  half-breed,  a  funny  volatile  boy,  son 
of  Mr.  Manson,  used  to  imitate,  on  a  sort  of  many -barred 
fife,  the  noise  made  by  the  sacerdotal  chiefs  on  the  stage. 
The  Indians,  when  they  used  to  come  to  the  fort,  and 
hear  this,  seemed  much  amazed,  and  often  begged  of  me 
to  check  him.  After  the  conclusion  of  the  ceremony 
they  have  a  feast,  consisting  generally  of  seals'  and  dogs' 
flesh,  salmon,  boiled  and  roast,  and  different  kinds  of 
berries.  During  the  representation  and  the  feast,  there 
is  a  large  wood-fire  in  the  centre  of  the  room. 

As  I  acquired  a  knowledge  of  their  language,  I  was 
admitted  to  much  of  their  personal  confidence,  and  soon 
became  interpreter. 

There  is  one  very  remarkable  }X)culiarity  of  their  reli- 
gious customs  which  deserves  to  be  noticed :  and  if  I  had 


'  / 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


173 


not  personal  rvidcnce  of  its  reality,  I  should  be  slow  to 
bring  myself  to  a  belief  of  its  actual  existence.  Tiie 
chief,  who  is  supposed  to  possess  the  »*  right  divine"  of 
governing,  and  to  be  the  intermediate  agent  between  the 
great  solar  spirit — the  Creator  and  Supreme  Ruler — and 
his  creatures  here  below,  retires  at  times,  wiienever  he 
fancies  himself  summoned  by  the  divine  call,  from  the 
tribe,  without  giving  them  any  previous  intimation  of  his 
mission ;  and  takes  up  his  abode  in  the  lonely  woods  and 
mountains,  taking  clandestinely  with  him  a  small  stock 
of  dried  salmon  for  sustenance.  When  he  is  missed  by 
his  family,  the  report  is  spread  abroad,  and  then  it  is 
known  that  he  has  gone  to  hold  familiar  converse  with 
the  Great  Spirit,  who  will,  within  a  short  time,  descend 
to  give  him  an  interview.  Intelligence  has  then  been 
procured,  from  the  Indian  who  saw  him  last  on  that  day, 
as  to  his  route,  and  the  district  of  the  woods  and  hills  to 
which  he  is  likely  to  confine  his  wanderings ;  and  a 
sacred  boundary  line  is  drawn  round  this  district,  within 
which  it  is  a  crime  of  profanation  to  pass,  on  hunting  or 
fishing  excursions,  on  pain  of  death.  Should  any  unlucky 
Indian  even  meet  this  compound  of  chief  and  priest  in 
his  excursions,  he  is  sure  to  be  put  to  death,  either  by  the 
chief  himself^  for  he  must  be  perfectly  passive  in  the  in- 
furiated chiePs  hands,  or,  should  the  chief  in  his  ab- 
stracted mood  not  attack  him,  he  must,  on  his  return  to 
the  tribe,  acknowledge  the  guilt,  and  resign  himself  a 
voluntary  victim.  Should  he  conceal  the  fact  of  his 
meeting  the  chief,  and  should  the  chief  on  his  return  charge 
him  with  the  fact,  then  he  would  undergo  the  most  shock- 
ing torture.  The  duration  of  the  chief's  absence  on  this 
mission  is  irregular — at  least  it  is  long  enough  to  exhaust 
his  small  stock  of  food,  even  with  the  utmost  economy. 
It  is  often  three  weeks.  When  hunger  pinches  him  (and 
he  generally  selects  the  most  desert  and  dreary  region, 
destitute  of  esculent  fruits  or  roots)  his  imagination 
becomes  inflamed,  and  wliat  was  before  religion  or  super- 

15* 


174 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


stition,  becomes  now  frenzy;  during  which  tlic  fancied 
interview  with  the  Greiit  Spirit  occurs.  He  returns  at 
last  to  the  village,  the  most  hideous  object  in  nature, 
with  matted  huir,  shrunken  cheeks,  blood-shot  eyes,  and 
parched  lips — his  blanket,  which  is  his  sole  coverin;;]^,  all 
hanging  in  shreds  about  him,  torn  by  boughs  and 
brambles — his  face  all  begrimed  with  filth,  animated  witli 
all  the  unnatural  ferocity  of  a  demoniac.  His  return  is 
by  night,  and  as  uncertain  as  his  departure.  He  docs 
not  first  arrive  generally  at  his  own  house,  but  rusiies  to 
some  other,  according  to  the  blind  caprice  of  his  wild- 
ness,  and  instead  of  entering  it  by  the  door,  he  ascends 
the  roof — tears  oft*  one  of  the  cedar-board  coverings,  and 
plunges  down  into  the  centre  of  the  family  circle ;  he 
then  springs  on  one  of  the  full-grown  inmates,  like  a 
famished  wolf— wrenches  with  his  teeth  a  mouthful  of 
his  flesh,  from  his  limbs  or  body,  which  he  convulsively 
bolts  down,  without  any  process  of  mastication,  but 
barely  chopping  the  lump  once  or  twice  for  the  purpose 
of  easier  deglutition.  No  resistance  is  made,  for  the 
sufferer  thinks  that  lie  has  been  ordered  by  the  Great 
Spirit  to  yield  up  a  part  of  his  flesh  and  blood,  as  a  sort  of 
peace  or  sin  offering  to  tlie  priest.  The  chief  then  rushes 
to  another  house  in  the  same  way,  and  makes  the  same 
hurried  repast.  He  continues  this  process  along  other 
houses;  until,  in  a  few  hours,  he  becomes  exliansted, 
from  the  quantity  of  human  living  flesli  that  he  has 
devoured.  He  is  then  taken  home  in  a  state  of  torpor, 
and  thus  remains,  like  an  over-gorged  beast  of  prey,  for 
a  couple  of  days.  Afler  his  resuscitation  he  is  languid 
and  sickly,  and,  as  he  must  not  partake  of  the  usual  food 
for  a  certain  time  after  he  has  got  his  fill  of  the  human 
sacrifice,  he  goes  on  but  slowly  to  convalescence. 

I  have  been,  more  than  once,  in  close  connexion  with 
one  of  these  chiefs,  after  his  restoration  ;  and  his  breath 
was  like  an  exhalation  from  a  grave.  The  wounds  in- 
flicted by  his  bite,  though  held  as  sacred  trophies,  often 


f- 


mti 


m 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


175 


proved  mortal.  Their  mode  of  euro  is  this : — They  apply 
cagle-down  as  a  styptic  to  check  the  hemorrliage ;  and 
tiien  apply  a  plaster,  made  of  pine-tree  gum.  Several  of 
the  wounded  and  consecrated  j)eryons,  after  we  established 
our  fort,  finding  their  own  mode  of  treatment  inctfectual, 
came  to  our  surgeon  (applying  to  me  first,  as  interpreter) 
to  have  their  rankling  sores  healed.  Tliey  used  to  pre- 
sent a  most  iiideoua  appearance;  bein^  j'^ffff^'^  ^'^^^  torn, 
and  often  siiowing  the  clear  indentations  of  the  human 
teeth ;  and  besides  the  fetor  issuing  from  them  v^as  most 
noxious.  The  daughter  of  one  of  the  chiefs  (who  practised 
this  abomination),  the  wife  of  one  of  our  men,  told  mc 
that  lier  father,  on  his  return  to  the  village,  after  his 
sojourn  in  the  woods  and  mountains,  met  an  Indian,  on 
whom  he  fiew,  and  whose  side  he  continued  to  bite  and 
devour  until  his  bowels  protruded.  The  Indian  made  no 
resistance  ;  and,  when  the  chief  ran  off,  he  crawled  to  the 
village ;  and  though  every  effort  was  made  to  heal  his 
wounds,  they  were  found  to  be  too  mortal  for  human 
remedy.  He  died  soon  afterwards,  in  their  idea,  a  con- 
secrated person.  So  much  importance  and  pride  do  these 
Indians  attach  to  these  lacerations,  that  the  youngsters, 
who  have  not  had  the  good  fortune  to  be  thus  scarred, 
apply  lighted  gunpowder  to  their  limbs ;  and  use  other 
means  to  produce  a  holy  gash. 

An  American  vessel,  some  years  previous  to  our  visiting 
this  place,  was  attacked  by  the  natives,  and  part  of  the 
crew,  as  well  as  the  captain,  killed.  About  eight  o'clock 
in  the  morning  the  vessel  was  boarded  by  some  of  the 
chiefs ;  and  numerous  Indians  mustered  round  the  vessel 
in  canoes  showing  quantities  of  furs.  Most  of'tlic  sailors 
were  up  aloft,  loosing  the  sails  to  be  aired.  The  chiefs 
called  the  captain  to  the  gangway  to  look  at  the  furs ;  and 
while  he  was  in  the  act  of  looking  at  them,  one  chief  on 
each  side  of  him  plunged  a  knife  in  his  side,  after  that 
they  pitched  him  overboard.  The  women  in  the  canoes 
cut  him  to  pieces  with  their  sharp  paddles  when  he  rose 


176 


ORROON  TKRRITORY. 


to  tlie  Burfarc.  Tlio  ntitivcB,  on  this  Mij;nnl,  ruslicd  on 
(lock,  and  a  tcrribh*  conHict  onsiird.  A.'Ht  many  ot*  the 
crew  were  Hluujjhtcrcd,  with  a  j^rcat,  nnniher  of  tlic 
savajjcH,  tho  rcnr.iininjj  sailors  contrivcti  to  slip  the  anclior 
and  sail  off  to  the  northward.  Th'-y  were  picked  np  in  a 
very  crippled  state,  hy  another  American  ship,  wlio 
atTordecl  them  every  assistance,  and  enahled  them  to  reach 
Boston. 

I  often  mentioned  this  shockinjnr  occnrrcncc  to  tlic 
natives,  with  the  ol)ject  of  sounding  their  dispositions  and 
leelinjijs.  The  jj^cn«^ral  tenour  of  their  remarks  allowed 
me  that  they  rejrretted  it  as  an  imprudent  act,  which 
would  recoil  on  themselves,  by  awakening-  the  apprehen- 
sions  of  the  white  men,  and  nr^inp  them  to  a  more 
jSruarded  and  less  liberal  mode  of  dealing  ; — that  they  con- 
sidered  it,  in  the  abstract,  cruel  and  treacherous ;  but  then 
they  used  to  palliate  the  act  by  strong  insinuations  that, 
as  the  class  of  white  men  to  whom  the  ship  belonged,  had 
no  great  sympathy  with  them;  and  ii'deed  showed  every 
disposition  to  cheat  and  harass  them,  there  ought  not  to 
be  raised  such  an  outcry  about  tlie  matter ;  for  sooner  or 
later  they  should  be  obliged  to  tight  in  their  own  defence; 
and  that  they  then  thought  a  favourable  opportunity 
should  not  be  lost.  Kyete,  the  chief  who  gave  the  cap- 
tain his  mortal  blow  on  deck,  often  told  me,  that  plunder 
was  not  their  exclusive  object ;  but  that  he  was  induced, 
in  a  fit  of  rage,  to  strike  the  captain,  when  he  found  him 
exhibiting  a  dishonest  and  domineering  disposition.  He 
regretted,  he  said,  the  occurrence  deeply ;  and  it  would 
never  have  occurred,  he  was  sure,  if  the  ship  belonged  to 
the  great  Company ;  for  tiie  Company  would  not  wish  to 
rob  the  Indians, as  tlie  captain  intended.  And  he  used  to 
appeal  to  me,  whether  I  did  not  think,  that,  from  the  con- 
duct of  the  tribe  to  us,  our  whole  crew  would  be  safe 
(even  if  the  ship  were  left  unguarded  to  swing  at  anchor) 
before  one  ot"  his  remote  villages.  I  used  to  give  him  a 
reply  of  general  consolation  and  civility,  without  express- 


QREOON  TCERITORY. 


177 


injBf  uny  ducifkd  oynion  of  the  matter.  I  certainly  Imd 
no  fear  of  a  Hirnilar  attock,  for  tlireo  good  reasons:  wc 
wore  too  niucli  on  tlio  alert;  wo  dealt  liberally  and 
honestly  with  them ;  and  the  prenerally  iKjlicved  power  of 
tiic  Company  was  a  tower  of  8trcn|[rth. 

I  oflen  conversed  with  these  people  on  the  cardinal 
points  of  religion  ;  and  they  always  seemed  glad  to  hear 
tiie  Hubjeet.  They  used  to  say,  we  know  the  (ireat  Spirit 
is  good,  and  that  he  made  us  and  the  world ; — that  the 
evil  spirit  is  bad,  and  has  lioofs  and  horns ;  and  tliat  tho 
bad  will  bo  punished  hereallcr. 


CHAPTER  XVI. 


Fort  M'l^iighUn — Voyage  from  it  all  along  the  intricale  inietn 
or  canals — Various  tribes — their  appearance,  and  customs. 

Fort  M'Loughlin  is  about  one  hundred  and  twenty 
yards  square,  having  two  bastions  standing  at  right 
angles ;  in  each  of  these  arc  four  nine-pound  guns,  with 
a  quantity  of  small  arms,  ready  for  action.  It  is  sur- 
rounded with  pickets,  i.  c,  trees,  cut  eighteen  feet  long, 
where  no  branches  have  run  out,  and  about  twenty-four 
inches  in  circumference.  These  pickets  are  mortised 
into  a  large  square  log  placed  firmly  in  the  earth.  The 
pickets  are  placed  so  close  together  that  they  cannot  even 
be  seen  through.  There  are  double  gates  at  the  entrance, 
with  a  small  wicket  gate  in  them.  At  the  top  of  the 
pickets  there  is  another  large  log,  into  which  the  pickets 
arc  mortised,  and  at  the  top  are  placed  long  spikes.  In- 
side the  fort,  round  the  pickets,  and  about  four  feet  and  a 
half  from  the  top,  is  a  gallery  run  round  the  fort.  Here 
a  watchman  is  continually  kept  on  the  look-out,  and  a 
one-pound  swivel  placed  over  the  gate :  this  protects  the 
gateway.    On  the  inside  of  the  gate,  on  entering  the  fort, 


178 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


i»j|yi!-i 


„  •'£. 


stands  the  Indian  hall.  A  certain  nungi^er  of  Indians  arc 
only  allowed  to  enter  for  trade  at  a  time ;  this  hall  is  in- 
tended for  them  to  wait  in  until  they  trade.  Another  man 
is  constantly  kept  at  the  gate  to  let  the  Indians  in  and  out. 
Adjoining  the  hall  are  the  tracer's  house,  and  a  house  for  the 
officer  in  charge  of  the  men.  On  the  left,  on  entering  the 
fort,  is  the  Indian  shop  and  store,  for  tlie  Indians  to  trade, 
and  the  trader's  outfit.  Adjoining  this  is  a  place  for 
holding  provisions  traded  from  the  natives,  such  as  deer, 
hallibut,  salmon,  and  wild.fowl.  On  the  right-hand  side 
of  the  fort  is  a  long  building,  divided  into  rooms,  for  the 
men.  At  the  end  of  this  is  a  very  neat  house,  part  of 
which  is  converted  into  a  mess-room.  At  the  further  end 
of  the  fort,  fronting  the  entrance,  is  Mr.  Manson's  house, 
divided  into  several  rooms,  all  of  which  are  very  neat  and 
compact.  On  the  left  of  the  fort  is  a  long  warehouse  for 
the  reception  of  the  general  outfit  which  is  sent  once  a 
year,  by  a  vessel,  from  Vancouver.  There  are  other  small 
buildings,  such  as  the  blacksmith's  shop,  and  carpenter's 
shop,  and  the  kitchen,  to  which  are  attached  the  cook's 
and  steward's  rooms.  The  Indians  are  all  kept  near  the 
gate  and  Indian  hall ;  they  are  not  allowed  to  enter  the 
fort  square,  with  the  exception  of  the  chiefs.  These  are 
sometimes  allowed  to  visit  the  governor's  house,  where 
they  get  some  biscuit  and  molasses  and  a  little  weak 
spirits  and  water.  The  Indians  generally  behave  them- 
selves very  well,  when  inside  the  fort ;  but  as  they  are 
much  addicted  to  thieving  (at  which  they  are  most  ex- 
pert), we  kept  a  constant  watch  over  them.  But  all  our 
vigilance  was  often  futile.  I  have  known  vessels  when 
lying  in  the  neighbourhood  of  this  place  trading,  to  have 
been  pilfered  of  both  canister-shot  and  powder,  taken  out 
of  the  big  guns. 

Having  ipitted  Fort  M'Loughlin  in  1834  in  the  brig 
Dryad,  I  returned  to  the  Columbia,  and  was  there  sta- 
tioned till  the  middle  of  1836  ;  having  passed  some  time 
at  Fort  Vancouver,  and  been  stationed  at  Fort  ( fcorge  as 


s 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


179 


superintendent.  I  then  returned  to  Fort  M'Loughlin,  in 
the  "  Beaver"  steamer,  in  the  character  of  trader  and 
interpreter,  and  was  happy  once  more  in  the  society  of  its 
first  g-overnor, — my  old  friend  Mr.  Manson,  than  whom, 
I  must  say,  there  is  not  in  the  Company's  service  a  more 
persevering,  acute,  zealous,  and  honourable,  and  therefore 
efficient,  trader ; — feared  and  trusted  by  the  natives,  and 
esteemed  by  the  servants.  I  am  happy,  too,  in  saying 
that  he  has  had  his  long-merited  reward,  in  official  pro- 
motion, and  in  the  Company's  increased  estimation  of  his 
excellent  qualities.  During  the  interval  between  my  de- 
parture and  return,  I  found  that  Mr.  Manson,  although 
reduced  to  a  short  complement  of  men,  had  made  many 
great  improvements  at  the  settlement.  A  large  tract  of 
ground  had  been  cleared  round  the  fort,  where  potatoes 
and  other  vegetables  were  growing.  Several  large  build- 
ings had  been  erected  inside  the  fort.  The  bastions  were 
all  complete,  with  the  large  nine-pounders  staring  us  in 
the  face.  And  the  Indians  were  brought  to  a  quiet  and 
well-behaved  course  of  conduct.  No  further  disturbance 
had  occurred  in  my  absence. 

Chief  factor  Finlayson  was  on  board  the  steamer  w'ith 
us,  reconnoitring  the  coast ;  Captain  Home  was  com- 
mander,  late  of  the  East  India  service,  Mr.  Dodd  chief 
officer.     We  had  on  board  upwards  of  thirty  hands. 

It  was  the  intention  of  Mr.  Finlayson,  under  whose  in- 
structions all  our  scheme  of  proceeding  was  to  be  con- 
ducted, to  push  on  along  the  numerous  and  intricate  in- 
lets (that  interlace  the  whole  country)  as  far  as  possible 
inland,  in  order  to  come  as  much  within  reach  of  the 
interior  tribes  ns  possible.  Therefore  we  ran  iiito  their 
uttermost  extremities,  along  almost  the  whole  of  the  laby- 
rinth;  stopping  sometimes  to  trade,  and  ascertain  tlic 
capabiliiies  of  the  country,  and  the  character  of  the  na- 
tives, who  had  never  seen  a  large  vessel  (and  especially  a 
steamer)  or  a  white  man  before.  The  country  had  the 
main  characteristics    of  that    about   Millbank    Sound. 


180 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


wm. 


Some  of  the  natives  showed  a  flattened  forcliead,  but  not 
a  compressed  head.  Indeed,  generally,  they  arc  a  well, 
featured  and  muscular  race,  but  suspicious  and  rather 
treacherous.  Along  these  inlets,  many  of  which  are  the 
mouths  of  rivers,  the  tribes  are  clustered  in  villages, — 
especially  towards  the  interior. 

At  Fort  M'Loughlin  we  took  on  board  about  twenty. 
six  cords  of  wood,  for  fuel,  which  was  ready  cut  for  us ; 
this  generally  lasted  us,  when  running  on,  between  three 
and  four  days.  From  here  we  ran  inland,  up  different 
inlets,  called  canals,  which  run  out  of  Fitzhugh's  Sound, 
a  little  to  the  southward  of  Fort  M'Loughlin.  Up  these 
canals  we  proceeded  about  a  day's  voyage.  The  land 
along  these  canals  is  lofty,  and  covered  with  pine,  appa- 
rently  growing  out  of  rocks.  In  some  places  these  canals 
are  clear  running  all  through ;  at  other  places  the  navi- 
gation  is  occasionally  obstructed. 

About  twelve  at  noon,  on  the  second  day,  we  reached 
a  place  called,  by  Vancouver,  "  Bentick's  Arms" — inha- 
bited by  a  tribe  of  Indians — the  Bellaghchoolas.  Their 
village  is  near  Salmon  River;  where  Sir  Alexander 
M'Kenzie  came  down  from  the  interior,  during  his  sur- 
vey, and,  by  observation,  found  he  must  be  near  the  Pa- 
cific Ocean :  and  in  case  any  vessel  should  run  to  this 
place  to  trade,  he  made  a  mark  on  a  large  rock  ;  which 
was  partly  distinguishable  when  we  were  there.  He 
named  this  Salmon  River,  on  account  of  the  quantities 
of  salmon  he  saw  in  it.  Though  we  arrived  in  the  sal- 
mon season,  we  could  not  prevail  upon  the  natives  to  sell 
us  one,  unless  cooked  by  themselves ;  as  they,  as  well  as 
the  Chinooks,  and  other  tribes,  fancy  that  cutting  the  sal- 
mon crossways  "  sends  them  away,"  and  they  will  have 
none  for  their  winter  provisions.  We  traded  numbers  of 
furs  fi"om  them,  but  nothing  else. 

The  land  here  is  high ;  as  in  other  parts,  entirely 
covered  with  trees — not  a  patch  of  clear  land  to  be  seen. 

We  likewise  visited  another  large  tribe  of  Indians  to 


an 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


181 


the  southward,  up  a  canal  running'  out  of  Johnson's 
Straits,  far  into  tlic  main  hind.  We  took,  from  Milbank, 
an  Indian,  as  interpreter.  It  took  us,  from  tlie  straits,  a 
day  and  a  half  to  reach  its  extremity.  The  land  along* 
the  sliore  was  high  and  woody — completely  covered  with 
pine  trees — not  a  patch  of  clear  ground  to  be  seen.  The 
natives  appeared  to  be  milder-looking"  tribes  than  those 
nearer  the  ocean.  It  runs  upwards  of  one  hundred  miles 
inland,  from  Fort  M'Loughlin,  in  a  southeasterly  direc- 
tion. On  running-,  wuth  the  steamboat,  up  this  canal  as 
far  as  possible,  on  the  second  day,  we  came  to  a  stoj) — 
the  water  became  shallow  ;  and  we  anchored  in  a  small 
bay.  Several  natives  came  to  us  in  canoes,  and  toid  us 
the  village  was  up  a  small  river,  and  entreated  us  to  go 
thither :  but  our  Indian  interpreter  wished  us  not.  Ho  a^- 
ever,  the  captain  was  anxious,  and  pressed  me  to  accom- 
pany him ;  to  which  I  consented.  We  manned  our 
whale-boat ;  and  we  were  well  armed.  No  one  had  been 
up  this  place  since  Captain  Vancouver's  boats  were  up 
here,  surveying" ;  and  the  Indians,  after  we  had  been 
there  a  little  time,  began  to  muster  in  great  numbers. 
We  put  ourselves  on  our  guard,  and  set  a  regular  watch 
to  mark  their  manceuvres. 

The  village  we  visited  was  up  a  small  shallow  river, 
about  two  miles  long,  with  scarcely  water  sufficient  for 
our  boat  to  go  up.  In  this  river,  we  fell  in  with  two 
large  canoes,  on  their  way  to  the  vessel.  When  we  ar- 
rived within  a  quarter  of  a  mile  of  tlie  village,  the  In- 
dians flocked  from  the  bush  in  great  numbers,  on  to  tlie 
banks  of  the  river,  armed  with  guns,  and  bows,  and  ar- 
rows. Seeing  our  boat  full  of  men,  and  our  muskctoons 
fixed  on  the  gunwale  of  the  boat,  they  got  an  impression 
that  we  were  coming  to  attack  their  village,  and  exhi- 
bited a  hostile  spirit.  They  understood  a  little  of  the 
Milbank  tongue.  I  thereibre  gave  them  to  understand 
tliat  we  were  peaceably  inclined,  and  had  only  come  to 
trade   with   them,   and   to   visit  their   village.     Having 

16 


■  I 


1 


182 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


eleven  men  in  the  boat,  the  captain,  myself,  and  tlirce 
men,  went  on  shore  to  visit  the  houses ;  leaving  six  men 
in  the  boat,  and  giving  them  instructions  to  pull  into  tlie 
middle  of  the  stream,  and  lie  abreast  of  the  village.  The 
natives  there  appeared  to  be  friendly  towards  us ;  and 
made  us  presents  of  some  skins  and  shells ;  but  expected 
something  in  return — which  they  got.  They  showed  us 
different  wooden  idols,  some  resembling  the  dog — and 
some,  men.  The  village  was  very  large,  and  enclosed 
with  pickets,  about  eight  feet  high.  This  was  to  pre- 
serve the  village  from  being  attacked  by  the  interior 
tribes.  I  saw,  on  a  tree,  a  small  coffin,  with  a  covering 
over  it,  and  a  human  image,  cut  out  of  wood,  and  painted. 
They  informed  me  that  this  was  the  corpse  of  a  child 
that  had  been  killed  by  their  enemies  when  attacking 
their  fort,  some  time  before ;  and  they  had  placed  it  there 
with  this  idol  by  its  side,  as  a  memorial  of  their  cruelty 
in  slaying  an  innocent.  Quantities  of  berries  and  dried 
salmon  w^ere  stowed  away  in  their  houses  for  winter. 
There  could  not  be  less  than  from  five  hundred  to  six 
hundred  Indians  belonging  io  this  village.  The  women 
seemed  to  be  much  afraid  of  us,  as  were  also  the  children. 
I  asked  the  reason ;  and  was  informed  that  it  was  the 
first  time  they  had  ever  seen  a  white  man  in  their  lives. 
They  seemed  anxious  to  detain  us  at  the  village  as  long 
as  possible :  but  our  men  informed  us  that  the  water  was 
fast  falling;  and  that  we  should  not,  if  we  remained 
longer,  be  able  to  get  back.  I  had  no  doubt  that  they 
wished  to  detain  us,  from  some  sinister  design,  until  the 
tide  had  ebbed,  so  as  to  bar  our  departure  :  and  we  rowed 
off.  On  our  arrival  at  the  ship,  our  interpreter  informed 
(IS  that  some  of  the  Indians  had  been  there,  and  said  wc 
should  never  return  again.  He  (tlie  interpreter)  li-^d 
been — we  were  informed  by  Mr.  Dodd,  the  chief  officer 
— a  long  way  up  the  rigging,  with  the  spy-glass,  anxi- 
ously  looking  out  for  us.  The  officers,  and  likewise  the 
men,  were  glad  to  sec  us  heave  in  sight  with  the  boat. 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


183 


The  country  up  the  river,  as  far  as  the  village,  ap. 
pcarcd  low,  covered  with  berry-bushes.  Pine  and  alder 
appeared  to  be  tlie  principal  wood.  The  interior,  I  have 
not  the  slightest  doubt,  is  a  plain  country. 

We  sent  our  wood-cutters  on  shore  at  this  place,  and 
renewed  our  stock  of  wood ;  the  Indians  assisting-  in 
carrying  it  to  the  beach,  and  bringing  it  alongside  the 
vessel  in  their  canoes ;  for  which  wc  gave  them  some 
tobacco :  and  having  procured  what  furs  wc  could,  we 
again  run  down  the  canal  into  Jolmson's  Straits — from 
thence  along  Fitzhuglies's  Sound  to  Fort  M'Loughlin ; 
where  we  again  took  in  our  complement  of  wood,  and 
ran  for  tiie  northward,  after  leaving  Milbank  Sound.  The 
entrance  of  Milbank  Sound  is  by  low  rocks,  and  a  rising 
land,  called  Cape  Swain,  and  lies  in  latitude  52^  13' ;  the 
nortlnvest  point  of  entrance  is  Point  Day,  off  which  lie 
Fcveral  roc\y,  barren  islets.  In  passing,  numerous  seals, 
sea-elephants,  and  sea-lions,  with  other  monsters  of  the 
deep,  can  be  seen  lying,  when  the  sun  is  out,  basking  on 
the  rocks. 

The  Indians  at  the  Milbank  Sound,  called  Belbellahs, 
are  very  ingenious  and  imitative.  They  watched  sharply 
all  our  proceedings,  and  gave  us  striking  examples  of 
their  native  talent.  They  promised  to  construct  a  steam- 
ship on  the  model  of  ours.  We  1  .stened,  and  shook  our 
heads  incredulously ;  but  in  a  short  time  we  found  that 
they  had  felled  a  large  tree,  and  were  making  the  hull 
out  of  its  scooped  trunk.  Some  time  after,  tiiis  rude 
steamer  appeared.  She  was  from  twenty  to  thirty  feet 
long,  all  in  one  piece — a  large  tree  hollowed  out — re- 
sembling the  model  of  our  steamer.  She  was  black,  with 
painted  ports,  decked  over ;  and  iiad  i)addles  painted  red, 
and  Indians,  under  cover,  to  turn  them  round.  Tlie 
steersman  was  not  seen.  She  was  floated  triumphantly, 
and  went  at  the  rate  of  three  miles  an  liour.  They 
thought  they  had  nearly  come  up  to  the  point  of  external 
structure :  but  then  the  enginery  baffled  them ;  and  this 


184 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


tlicy  thought  they  could  imitate  in  time,  by  perseverance, 
and  the  helpinjr  illumination  of  the  Great  Spirit. 

They  bury  their  dead  among-st  rocks,  placing  in  tlieir 
coffins,  as  the  Chinooks  do,  articles  for  tiieir  use  in  the 
next  world.  They  believe,  that  after  they  arg  dead,  they 
are  taken  in  a  canoe  along-  a  dark  lake,  for  a  long  dis- 
tance ;  and  then  come  to  large  gates.  These  gates  are 
opened  as  tliey  approach.  There  are,  beyond  tliese,  two 
rivers — one  branching  to  the  right ;  the  other,  to  the  left. 
If  they  have  done  good,  and  not  connnitted  murder,  they 
will  go  to  the  right ;  where  there  is  salmon  in  abundance, 
berries  of  all  sorts  growing  continually,  and  the  sun 
always  shining.  On  the  left,  there  is  continual  snow 
and  frost,  misery,  and  starvation. 

These  Indians  deal  in  slaves,  purchased  from  the 
southern  tribes — the  origirial  kidnappers — and  then  sell 
them,  at  a  profit,  to  the  northern  tribes,  who  come  down 
to  purchase  them.  A  full-grown,  athletic  slave,  who  is  a 
good  hunter,  will  fetch  nine  blankets,  a  gun,  a  quantity 
of  powder  and  ball,  a  couple  of  dressed  elk-skins,  tobacco, 
vermilion  paint,  a  flat  file,  and  other  little  articles. 

After  leaving  Point  Day,  and  taking  a  northerly  course, 
instead  of  going  out  into  the  open  ocean,  the  Company's 
vessels  generally  keep  inland,  along  the  canals  De  Larado 
and  Delprincipe.  The  country  along  these  canals  is  in. 
habited  by  a  numerous  tribe  of  Indians,  called  the  Sebas- 
sa  tribe ;  diftering  in  many  points  from  the  more  southern 
tribes.  They  are  more  active  and  enterprising  than  the 
Milbank  tribes,  but  the  greatest  thieves  and  robbers  on 
the  coast.  They  are  scattered  about  along  the  canals, 
but  the  principal  residence  of  the  chief  is  either  at  Land- 
Otter  Harbour,  or  Seal  Harbour.  In  each  of  these  har- 
hours  there  is  good  anchorage  for  vessels. 

They  build  their  villages,  chiefly,  upon  high  and  pre- 
cipitous  rocky  islands,  or  promontories ;  having  steps  cut 
down  to  the  water.  I'his  is  done  to  prevent  any  sudden 
attack  from  an  enemy.    The  chief,  Sebassa,  has  twenty 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


185 


wives,  and  numerous  slaves ;  and  is  a'  counted  to  be  one 
of  the  wealthiest  on  the  coast.  They  go  in  bands,  in 
their  canoes,  to  the  soutliward,  and,  unawares,  kidnap 
ihe  Indians,  when  out  fishing",  or  gatherings  berries. 
These  are  then  taken  inland,  and  traded  as  slaves.  Some 
of  these  Indians,  from  their  trading  intercourse  with  the 
British  and  American  ships,  speak  a  little  English.  They 
bring  large  quantities  of  various  kinds  of  fur-skins  for 
barter — beaver,  bear,  raccoon,  otter,  fox,  seal.  Their  food, 
and  manner  of  living,  resemble  the  Milbank  tribe.  They 
give  feasts  and  dances ;  and  have  religious  ceremonies, 
and  religious  masquerades,  or  tlieatrical  representations, 
similar  to  those  of  the  Nootka  Sound  tribes.  The  shores 
are  high  and  rocky,  covered  with  pine  and  cedar-trecs. 
The  natives  are  great  gamblers ;  and,  as  well  as  the  more 
southern  tribes,  resemble  the  Chinooks  in  their  games. 
The  seal  are  numerous ;  and  are  eitlier  shot,  wlien  lying 
on  the  rocks,  or  most  dexterously  speared,  when  floating, 
in  the  same  manner  as  a  whale. 

One  day,  running  along  these  canals,  we  had  on  board 
one  of  these  Indians,  to  show  us  the  different  harbours ; 
but  it  became  very  foggy,  so  that  we  could  scarcely  see 
the  ship's  length  before  us.  The  Indian,  having  a  large 
hat  on,  resembling  the  top  of  a  small  parasol,  made  of 
the  twisted  fibres  of  the  roots  of  trees,  with  an  aperture 
in  the  inside,  at  the  broader  end,  to  fit  his  iiead.  He 
stood  upon  the  quarter-deck — took  off  his  hat — and  in- 
formed me  that  he  intended  to  charm  the  fog  away ;  for 
which  I  was  to  give  him  some  tobacco.  To  this  I  con- 
sented.  He  murmured  some  few  words ;  and  with  his 
hand,  pretended  to  gather  the  fog  into  his  hat.  He  then, 
all  of  a  sudden,  dropped  his  hat  on  the  deck,  as  if  he  had 
something  in  it ;  and,  after  holding  it,  mouth  down,  for 
some  minutes,  and  murmuring  some  more  words,  in- 
formed me  that  the  fog  would  soon  be  gone.  The  fog,  in 
about  half  an  hour,  did  happen  to  clear  away  fast.  He 
then  assumed  a  proud  and  self-confident  air ;  and  assured 

16* 


186 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


US  tliat  it  was  all  the  work  of  his  "  conjuration  and 
mighty  magic."  I  saw  no  necessity  for  offending  or 
provoking  him  by  any  expression  or  sign  of  dissent  or 
incredulity ;  as  wc  were  in  a  great  degree  under  his 
guidance,  in  those  intricate  and  narrow  guts.  Of  course 
the  fellow,  from  his  knowledge  of  the  climate  and  the 
locality,  was  weather-wise ;  and  could  tell  the  appear- 
ance  and  disappearance  of  those  periodical  fogs.  I  gave 
him  his  tobacco,  and  a  little  more,  with  which  he  was 
highly  pleased. 

The  only  covering  the  men  have,  is  a  large  blanket 
thrown  round  their  bodies.  The  women  have  a  loose, 
figured  calico  shirt  over  them,  witli  a  piece  of  coarse 
cloth  thrown  across  their  shoulders — the  calico  having 
lately  superseded  the  former  skins.  Both  male  and 
female  daub  themselves  over  with  vermilion.  They  wear 
large  rings  through  the  nose ;  some  of  these  rings  being 
bone — others,  silver ;  made  by  themselves,  from  dollars 
purchased  from  American  traders.  As  ornaments  for 
their  wrists,  they  have  bracelets,  made  from  brass  wire. 
Their  hair  is  very  long ;  for  wliich  they  use  a  great  deal 
of  seal  and  salmon  oil.  When  a  relation,  or  parent,  dies, 
they  put  themselves  in  mourning,  by  cutting  the  hair 
quite  close,  and  blacking  the  face  and  neck,  for  some 
months.  Both  men  and  women  bore  large  holes  through 
their  ears ;  from  which  tliey  suspend  red  worsted  threads, 
plaited  and  knotted,  and  hanging  down  about  eight 
inclies,  instead  of  ear-rings. 

The  old  women  disfigure  themselves,  by  having  a  slit 
cut  right  through  their  lower  lip,  crosswise,  from  one  end 
to  the  other.  They  then  have  a  piece  of  hard  wood,  or 
bone,  made  tiie  length  of  the  cut ;  rounded  at  the  end, 
about  two  inches  long,  half  an  inch  broad,  and  a  quarter 
of  an  inch  thick.  This  is  inserted  in  the  dit,  inside,  be- 
tween the  lip  and  gum  ;  making  the  lower  lip  project  out 
about  one  inch  beyond  the  upper.  The  sight  is  hideous. 
Our  men  used  jocosely  to  say,  this  lower  lip  would  make 


•f   9  V,'  .        , 


OREGON  TERRITORV. 


187 


a   good   slab   to  lay  their   trousers   on,  to  be  scrubbed. 
Shell-fish,  of  every  kind,  arc  plentiful. 

The  general  character  of  tiie  country,  as  wc  proceeded 
northward,  wore  the  same  aspect — rocky,  woody,  and 
mountainous.  From  the  47°  to  the  54°,  there  is  a  com- 
plete net-work  of  inland  navigation — sounds,  bays,  inlets, 
harbours — safe  all  tlirough,  for  all  vessels.  Tliis  I  can 
attest,  as  I  have  run  througli  the  whole  course  several 
times,  by  steam  and  sail. 


CHAPTER  XVII. 


Fort  Simpson — The  surrounding  country;   and   the  various 

tribes. 

At  the  termination  of  the  canals  crossing  Ciiatham 
Sound,  is  Fort  Simpson,  in  latitude  54°,  named  after 
Mr.  Simpson  (now  Sir  George  Simpson),  of  York  Fac- 
tory,  and  governor  of  the  whole  of  the  Hudsoir's  Bay 
Company's  territory.  This  fort  is  situated  near  Point 
Wales,  on  a  small  island  in  the  sound,  opposite  Dundas 
Island,  and  near  the  northern  termination  of  the  British 
territory. 

Fort  Simpson  is  built  after  the  model  of  most  of  the 
other  forts.  The  governor  is  John  Work,  Esq.,  chief 
trader,  an  Irish  gentleman,  who  has  been  for  many  years 
in  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company.  Su'^rounding  the  fort,  is 
a  large  and  fruitful  potato  and  vegetable  garden.  The 
officer  conducting  the  Indian  department  is  Mr.  John 
Kennedy,  a  medical  doctor,  son  of  the  late  chief  factor 
Kennedy,  many  years  attached  to  tlie  Hudson's  Bay 
Company.  The  fort  is  built  in  a  beautiful  bay,  with  ex- 
cellent anchorage  for  shipping. 

The  Indians  are  the  Nass  tribe,  who  are  very  numerous, 
and  in  customs  and  language  resemble  the  Sabassa  In- 


188 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


cUfiTiP,  witli  whom  tlioy  intermarry  :  indeed,  both  those 
tribes  ji])[)('.ir  t(^  be  offshoots  from  one  parent  stoclt.  The 
jirlncipal  cliief  is  Il^roak,  whom  they  desi«rnate  by  tlie 
title  of  Wil-ilks  Srnoket,  i.  r.,  the  mighty  ciiief :  and  in 
trutfj,  if  a  jrijrantic  person,  a  stately  air,  a  noble  mien,  a 
manly  port,  and  all  tlie  characteristies  of  external  difjnity, 
with  a  symmetrical  figure,  and  a  perfect  order  of  Euro, 
pean  contour,  would  qualify  any  one  for  that  title,  he  fully 
deserves  it.  Were  he  exhibited  in  London,  with  his 
harem,  he  would  beat  all  exhibitions  of  American  Indians 
out  of  the  field.  The  whole  race,  generally  speaking,  arc 
a  fine  body  of  men.  But  the  old  women  adopt  the  sliock. 
ing  custom  of  slitting  the  lower  lip,  and  inserting  the 
piece  of  bone  or  wood.  It  seems  that  some  preparation 
has  been  made  for  tiiis  in  their  youth  :  the  young  women 
have  small  lioles  bored  through  the  lower  lip,  and  a  piece 
of  round  silver  placed  in  it,  projecting  out  about  three- 
quarters  of  an  inch.  This  aperture  gradually  grows 
wider  with  age  ;  and  affords  a  facility  for  a  final  gash. 
They  wear  gowns,  made  of  calico.  These  arc  made  loose, 
similar  to  a  shirt;  but,  to  show  their  shape,  they  have 
stays,  made  of  clotli,  ornamented  witli  pearl  buttons. 
These  are  drawn  round  them  quite  tight.  They  also 
wear  a  blanket,  thrown  across  their  shoulders.  Their 
hair  is  long,  parted  in  front,  and  behind,  is  bound  round 
with  a  piece  of  scarlet  cloth,  which  hangs  down  like  a  tail. 
These  northern  tribes  burn  their  dead,  and  deposit  the 
ashes  in  a  box,  in  a  secluded  spot  in  the  woods.  When  a 
chief  dies,  he  is,  before  interment,  dressed  up — his  face 
painted — and  placed  sitting  up,  in  a  canoe,  and  paddled 
round  the  maritime  village,  looking  almost  like  life.  The 
magicians,  or  doctors,  wear  very  long  hair.  They  carry 
images  of  their  gods  and  spirits  in  a  box,  which  is  kept 
sacred,  and  is  scarcely  ever  seen  by  the  vulgar.  They 
have  great  power  over  the  tribe  ;  and  some  of  the  Indians 
stand  in  great  fear  of  them  ;  for  if  a  doctor  owes  them  a 
grudge,  he  will,  they  think,  charm  away  their  life.    I 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


ISd 


have  been  told  by  a  doctor  liimsclf,  that  sometimes  an  In- 
dian's  wife,  sister,  or  dau^^hter  may  die,  and  tlie  Indian, 
supposing  the  doctor  to  liavc  charmed  away  her  lile,  will 
avenge  himself  on  the  doctor.  Amongst  the  southern 
tribes,  murders  have  been  committed  by  the  Indians  on 
the  doctors. 

The  oil  which  they  eat  with  the  various  kinds  of  dried 
fish,  is  made  from  sprats,  and  in  the  following  manner. 
In  the  centre  of  their  huts  they  have  a  fire,  and  a  quantity 
of  these  fish  are  placed  in  a  large  square  bucket  with 
water:  then  hot  stones  arc  kept  constantly  thrown  in 
amongst  the  fish,  with  a  pair  of  wooden  tongs.  The  oil 
rises  to  the  top  of  the  water,  and  a  person  is  kept  in  at- 
tendance to  skim  it  off.  After  standing  until  cold,  it  is 
quite  white  and  tiiick.  They  also  make  seal  oil  from  the 
blubber.  Quantities  of  deers'  and  goats'  grease  are  traded 
from  them.  Bears'  grease  might  be  obtained  here  in  abun- 
dance ;  as  the  black  and  brown  bear  are  numerous.  Deer, 
and  all  kinds  of  wild-fowl,  are  also  plentiful.  The  prin- 
cipal fur  is  the  beaver,  marten,  sea-otter,  land-otter,  minx, 
cross.fox,  and  silver-fox,  and  squirrels. 

About  the  month  of  September,  various  tribes,  who  arc 
friendly  with  the  Nass  Indians,  visit  the  fort,  and  encamp 
around  it :  then  the  fort  is  surrounded  with  hundreds  of 
Indians.  The  principal  tribes  visiting  at  this  time,  arc 
the  Tongarse,  Kegarnie,  Port  Stewart,  and  Stikein.  More 
northern  tribes  come  from  tlic  Russian  possessions ;  and 
the  Indians  from  Queen  Charloftf^'s  Island,  called  the 
Massets,  Comshewars,  and  Skctigets.  At  this  time  there 
arc  all  kinds  of  dancing,  singing,  and  feasting  amongst 
them.  Trade  is  kept  up  at  a  brisk  rate  at  the  fort,  which 
is  made  in  a  manner  a  lively  show  bopth. 

The  Indians  coming  from  distant  parts  to  tliis  fort, 
have  large  canoes,  from  thirty  to  fifty  feet  long,  the  pad- 
dles resembling  those  of  the  Chinooks,  and  are  managed 
in  the  same  manner.  Besides  containinrr  numerous  In- 
dians,  their  canoes  are  piled  up  with  goods  for  barter. 
They  remain  mustered  here  for  some  weeks,  making  the 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


•*-A^. 


1.0 


1.1 


m.  12.5 


■^  iU   §22 


IL25  11.4 


I 


1.6 


Photographic 

Sdences 

Corporation 


33  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14SS0 

(716)872-4503 


*\^ 


190 


OREGON  TERRITOnV. 


fort  a  complete  fair.  It  requires  strict  and  good  manage, 
ment,  at  this  time,  by  the  Company's  officers,  to  protect 
the  fort.  On  landing  at  the  fort,  their  canoes  are  piled  up 
in  large  hea})s,  covered  over  with  mats,  to  keep  the  sun 
from  cracking  them.  They  bring  provisions  vi^ith  them, 
to  last  during  their  stay  and  journey  home.  Feasts  are 
given  by  the  cliicfs ;  and  invitations  sent  regularly  round 
to  the  different  guests.  Should  any  of  the  officers  of  the 
Company  be  invited,  stools  arc  placed  by  the  side  of  the 
fire,  covered  over  with  cloth  and  fine  calico;  and  they  are 
introduced  with  great  ceremony — the  chiefs  standing  to 
receive  them.  Skins  are  given,  as  presents,  to  the  officers; 
and,  in  the  course  of  a  day  or  two,  the  trader  returns  the 
compliment,  by  making  them  presents  of  British  manu- 
factured clothing. 

After  the  various  tribes  have  finished  their  trading 
speculations,  and  paid  their  various  visits  of  friendship  to 
one  another,  and  the  officers,  they  launch  their  canoes, 
laden  with  the  return  goods ;  striking  up  an  Indian  voy- 
age song  with  great  glee. 

The  Indians  inhabiting  the  vicinity  of  the  fort  are  tall, 
well  proportioned,  and  more  active  and  cleanly  than  the 
southern  tribes.  The  women  are  about  the  same  height 
as  the  Chinooks,  but  much  more  cleanly,  particularly  the 
young  women — all  of  them  better  clad  ;  wearing,  as  be- 
fore mentioned,  a  loose  gown.  They  have  slaves,  who  do 
the  principal  drudgery.  These  slaves,  in  barter,  fetch  a 
larger  price  to  the  northward  than  they  do  to  the  south  ; 
and  are  sold  by  the  Nass  tribe  to  the  various  inland  tribes, 
for  furs.  These  furs  they  again  sell  to  the  white  traders 
for  blankets,  and  other  articles  of  use  or  luxury. 

Numbers  of  the  yt)ung  men  among  the  northern  tribes 
speak  broken  English,  picked  up  from  the  various  Ameri- 
can vessels,  that  used  to  frequent  these  parts,  and  from  the 
Company's  servants.  Amongst  these  tribes  are  numbers 
of  American  half-breeds,  both  men  and  women :  some  of 
the  latter  as  fair  as  English  females ;  some  with  light 
hair,  and  some  few  with  quite  red  hair. 


OREGON  TERRITORV. 


191 


The  country  surrounding  the  fort  is  Iiigli  and  woody. 
The  wood  consists  of  pine,  spruce,  cedar,  and  cypress, 
v/ith  various  runs  of  water,  coming  from  tlie  interior 
mountains.  It  ahounds  witli  deer,  duck,  and  geese  :  lial- 
hbut,  sahnon,  and  herring.  Derries,  of  all  kinds,  grow  in 
abundance,  which  arc  gathered  by  the  women,  and  dried 
for  winter  provisions. 

Their  religion  resembles  tliat  of  the  other  tribes,  wlio 
think  the  sun  is  tlie  great  ambulatory  spirit,  who  makes 
his  daily  tour  of  inspection  over  tiie  stationary  earth  ;  and 
that  the  moon  is  his  subordinate  nocturnal  watchman. 
On  one  occasion  I  explained  to  a  chief  that  it  was  the 
earth  that  moved  round,  and  not  the  sun.  He  said  he 
always  put  faith  in  what  I  had  previously  told  him,  but 
never  should  any  more,  as  I  was  only  deceiving  him. 

They  are  very  much  afraid  of  the  small-pox,  which,  in 
1835,  had  made  dreadful  ravages  amongst  them — more 
amongst  the  families  of  the  chiefs,  than  among  the  in- 
ferior classes ;  perhaps  because  these  did  not  lead  so 
sedentary  a  life,  and  were  not  so  highly  fed.  Most  of  the 
men  employed  by  the  Company  here  take  wives,  princi- 
pally from  the  Tongarse,  and  Kegarnie  tribes ;  these 
being  the  most  cleanly  of  all  the  Indians  on  the  coast. 

Their  dress  resembles,  for  the  most  part,  that  of  the 
Ndss  women,  but  is  of  finer  texture — the  cloak  ornamented 
with  pearl  buttons — the  stays  outside  the  gown,  of  scarlet 
cloth,  so  as  to  show  off  the  sliape,  similarly  ornamented 
— silver  rings  through  the  nose,  and  on  tlie  lingers — 
several  bracelets  on  the  arms,  and  strings  of  braided  silk 
depending  from  the  ears.  Both  men  and  women  have  a 
handsome  and  regular  expression  of  countenance :  in 
complexion  and  contour  resembling  Europeans.  This 
may  be  averred  of  most  of  the  natives  in  these  latitudes. 

During  the  time  the  opposition  was  kept  up  between 
the  Company  and  the  Americans  on  this  coast,  this  tribe, 
as  well  as  the  other  northern  ones,  used  to  designate  the 
Americans  by  the  name  of  Boston  fellow^ — the  British, 


192 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


as  KinfT  Geor^^c  fclloic.  And  the  old  chief  of  this  tribe, 
named  Neoceote,  often  told  me  that  he  observed  a  small 
variation  in  phraseology,  and  even  in  pronunciation,  be- 
tween the  British  and  Americans,  which  he  used  thus  to 
express  :  "  small  change  'em,  speak  'em,  king  George 
fellow,  Boston  fellow ;"  i.  e.,  the  Bostonians  and  British 
speak  the  same  language,  but  with  a  small  change. 

This  old  chief  was  very  much  attached  to  the  British, 
and  gave,  as  a  legacy  to  Mr.  Ogden,  two  beaver  skins, 
stating  tliat  when  he  died  he  wished  a  coffin  to  be  made, 
and  to  be  buried  in  it  after  the  British  fashion,  and  in 
their  burying-ground  near  the  fort,  by  the  side  of  Lieu- 
tenant Simpson — a  gentleman  who  was  commander  of 
the  Company's  shipping  in  the  Oregon,  and  who  was 
buried  close  to  Fort  Simpson.  But  as  I  had  left  that  part 
of  the  country  before  his  death,  I  did  not  hear  whether 
his  family  allowed  him  to  be  buried  as  he  wished,  or 
whether  he  was  placed  in  the  woods  amongst  the  dead 
remnants  of  his  tribe. 

The  principal  harbour  of  Tongarse,  which  lies  within 
the  Russian  territory,  is  round  like  a  basin,  with  a  sandy 
bottom,  the  soundings  from  eight  to  twenty  fathoms. 
The  land,  for  some  distance,  is  low,  interspersed  with  the 
usual  sorts  of  wood  found  in  these  latitudes.  The  in- 
terior  is  dotted  with  small  plains  and  lakes.  The  soil  is 
good.  Deer,  salmon,  with  various  other  fish,  as  well  as 
wild-fbwl,  abound  here.  This  harbour  is  said  to  be  the 
best  on  this  part  of  the  coast  whence  to  obtain  spars,  and 
other  wood,  for  shipping.  The  Americans  as  well  as  the 
British,  were  prevented  visiting  these  harbours  for  trade, 
as  the  Russians  began  to  cast  a  jealous  eye  upon  them, 
and  set  armed  vessels  in  the  various  ports,  which  they 
called  their  territory,  for  the  protection  of  their  trade. 
Therefore  the  Company  and  the  Americans  had  to  con- 
fine  themselves  within  the  54°  of  latitude. 

The  Kegarnie  tribe,  also  in  the  Russian  territory,  live 
on  an  immense  island,  called  North  Island.    They  re- 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


193 


scmblc  the  Tong-arsc  Indians,  both  men  and  women,  in 
appearance,  dress,  and  customs.  The  country  is  rocky, 
and  highly  covered  with  pine  and  spruce  trees,  and  with 
a  light  pasture  mould.  Fish,  seal,  and  berries  constitute 
their  principal  food.  Some  of  the  Indians'  teeth  are 
actually  worn  down  close  to  their  gums,  from  continually 
eating  hard  dried  salmon.  There  is  a  chief  of  this  tribe 
who  is  a  half-breed  American,  and  goes  by  the  name  of 
George  Bennett ;  and  is  said  to  be  a  son  of  Captain  Ben- 
nett, who  was,  many  years  ago,  in  charge  of  a  vessel 
from  Boston,  trading  on  the  coast.  This  young  Bennett 
speaks  English  very  well.  I  asked  him  if  he  would  not 
like  to  go  to  America  or  England  ?  He  answered  »»  no  !" 
as  he  considered  we  were  slaves — even  our  chiefs — who 
were  always  doing  something  from  necessity,  and  as  we 
were  always  at  work  for  a  living.  "  I  have  slaves,"  said 
he,  "  who  hunt  for  me — paddle  me  in  my  canoes, — and 
my  wives  to  attend  upon  me.  Why  should  I  wish  to 
leave  ?" 

Although  the  jealousy  of  the  Russians  prevents  the 
British  entering  their  ports  for  trade,  the  Indians  prefer 
trading  with  the  British,  therefore  they  travel  for  milctJ, 
with  their  large  canoes  laden  with  furs,  to  Fort  Simpson. 

The  Stikein  tribe  live  much  further  north,  approaching 
the  chief  Russian  settlement  of  Sitka,  at  the  top  of 
Clarence's  Straits,  which  run  upwards  of  one  hundred 
miles  inland.  These  Indians  speak  the  same  tongue  as 
the  Tongarse,  and  are  intermarried  with  them.  Furs 
are  numerous  amongst  them,  and  of  a  good  quality.  It 
is  a  mountainous  country,  some  of  the  mountains  con- 
tinually covered  with  snow.  Here,  as  in  other  parts  of 
the  coast,  the  wood  consists  of  pine,  spruce,  and  cedar. 

A  little  to  the  northward  of  this  there  is  a  tribe  called 
the  Chilkasts.  In  their  country  great  quantities  of  virgin 
copper  are  found.  Some  of  it  is  worked  by  the  natives 
into  a  kind  of  shield,  about  two  feet  and  a  half  long,  and 
one  ^t  broad,  with  figures  of  men  and  animals  engraved 

17 


194 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


iti 


upon  it.  Tlic  labour  and  ingenuity  expended  in  workiii^r 
one  of  these  shields,  give  them  great  value.  One  ot'tlieni 
is  estimated  as  worth  nine  slaves,  and  is  transmitted  as  u 
preeious  heir-loom  from  father  to  son. 

Before  leaving  Fort  Simpson,  it  may  not  be  unin- 
teresting to  give  a  sketeh  of  a  slight  disturbance  whicii 
originated  through  one  of  the  Indian  women.  During 
the  time  a  large  body  of  the  Indians  were  encamped 
round  the  fort  for  trade,  one  of  them,  a  Port  Stewart  In- 
dian, became  jealous  of  his  wife,  wlio  was  a  Tongarsc. 
In  his  jealous  fit  he  beat  his  wife  most  tremendously. 
Her  sister,  who  saw  this,  ran  up  with  a  clasp-knife  in 
her  hand — plunged  it  into  the  man's  mouth,  and  cut  his 
cheek  close  up  to  his  ear.  He  would  eventually  have 
bled  to  death,  had  not  Dr.  Kennedy  of  the  fort,  attended 
him.  The  woman  fled.  A  regular  feud  was  thus  gene- 
rated,  and  the  friends  of  both  parties  prepared  for  all  tlie 
stratagems  of  barbarous  revenge  and  warfare.  A  fcllow- 
tribe-man,  and  particular  friend  of  the  wounded  man,  lay 
day  and  night  in  wait  for  the  woman.  This  one  of  the 
woman's  friends  and  relations  discovered,  and  he,  too,  lay 
in  wait  for  the  skulking  assassin  until  he  found  him,  and 
shot  him  dead.  These  accumulated  wrongs  stopped  all 
avenues  of  peaceful  negotiation,  and  war  to  the  very  pole 
of  the  battle  axe,  was  declared  between  the  tribes.  The 
Port  Stewartites  managed  to  come  upon  part  of  the  Ton- 
garse  tribe  at  night,  near  their  village,  and  killed  sevcraL 
The  Tongarsc  Indians,  anxious  then  for  peace,  offered  to 
make  compensation,  with  slaves  and  blankets,  to  the  dead 
man's  friends,  as  well  as  for  the  "  man  injured  in  the 
mouth ;"  this  they  readily  accepted.  But  after  this 
negotiation  the  Port  Stewart  Indians  swerved  from  their 
contract,  and  fitted  out  another  war  party  to  attack  the 
village.  But  some  of  the  Tongarse  tribe  being  in  the 
wood,  saw  them,  and  roused  the  village.  The  enemy, 
seeing  this  unexpected  resistance,  fled.  But  the  Tongarse 
Indians  chased  them,  and,  having  found  thirty  of  them 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


195 


in  a  deep  hole  in  the  wood,  surrounded  with  rocks,  com 
inenced  a  deadly  fire  upon  them,  and  destroyed  them  as 
the  Blackfeet  would  a  licrd  of  buffalo.  Thus  terminated 
the  war  at  that  time.  But  the  Port  Stewart  tribe,  when  I 
left  the  country,  were  filled  with  revenge,  and  only  wait- 
ing for  their  opportunity. 

Their  houses  are  of  the  same  construction  as  those  of 
the  Chinooks,  but  much  larger.  Their  favourite  dish  is 
seal,  but  they  most  frequently  feed  off  dried  salmon  and 
oil.  The  brown,  black,  and  gray  bear  arc  numerous  in 
these  northern  parts,  as  are  wolves,  which,  during  the 
winter  months,  come  near  the  fort,  howling  in  hundreds, 
with  their  whelps,  for  hours.  The  Indian  dogs  resemble 
the  wolf  very  much,  having  a  sharp  nose,  and  a  long, 
bushy  tail ;  being  a  cross  breed  from  tlie  wolf,  they  are 
famous  dogs  for  running  deer  down  in  the  woods,  and 
are  oflen  used  by  the  Indians  for  that  purpose — particu- 
larly  in  winter,  when  the  snow  is  on  the  ground,  driving 
the  deer  from  the  woods  on  to  the  beach,  where  the  In- 
dians lie  in  wait,  and  shoot  them.  Their  canoes  are 
made  from  large  trees,  hollowed  out,  resembling  those  of 
the  Chinooks,  but  larger.  Every  chief  keeps  an  Indian 
on  his  establishment  for  making  and  repairing  canoes, 
and  making  masks  for  his  religious  representations  :  this 
man  they  call  their  carpenter.  Their  covering  consists 
of  blankets  except  on  state  occasions ;  then  the  chiefs 
have  splendid  dresses  of  prepared  elk-skins,  ornamented 
with  porcupine  quills,  dyed  in  various  colours  produced 
from  boiled  roots. 

Mr.  Peter  Skein  Ogden  was  the  man  who  established 
the  first  fort  amongst  these  northern  tribes — who  pitched 
liis  tent  on  a  spot  where  white  man  never  did  before,  and 
succeeded  in  bringing  these  savages  into  contact  with 
the  white  man's  customs — detached  them  from  the  pro- 
fligacy of  American  trading  to  the  useful  and  civilizing 
intercourse  with  British  merchants.  He  is  descended 
from  a  most  respectable  and  wealthy  family  in  Montreal. 


'■■I, 


195 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


Mi 


He  was  educated  for  the  law ;  but  preferred  enlistinfif  in 
the  Northwest  Company  and  passing  his  days  in  the 
wilds  of  America ;  where  he  has  been  almost  from  his 
youtli.  He  is  a  man  of  great  natural  talent,  humour, 
goodnature,  and  intelligence.  He  will  entertain  a  host 
of  friends  by  his  amusing  anecdotes.  I  should  very 
much  like  to  see  issued  from  the  press  the  »*  Memoirs  of 
the  eccentric  Peter  Skein  Ogden,"  which  would  be 
amusing  both  to  young  and  old — learned  and  unlearned. 
Queen  CharloUe's  Island  is  about  one  hundred  and 
fifty  miles  long.  The  principal  tribes  upon  it  are  the 
SketigetSf  Massets,  and  Comshewars.  These  are  nume. 
rous;  and  have  several  half-breed  Americans  amongst 
them.  They  are  expert  thieves ;  and  will,  if  constant 
watch  is  not  kept,  when  visiting  the  vessels,  draw  bolts, 
staples,  nails,  and  other  articles  of  iron,  from  the  doors. 
Lead  is  a  fancy  article  of  theirs ;  sometimes  they  will 
endeavour  to  cut  it  off  the  stem  of  a  vessel.  Tiie  only 
thing  that  keeps  these,  as  well  as  the  other  northern 
tribes,  in  a  little  subjection,  is  the  nine  or  twelve  pound 
cannons  staring  them  in  the  face.  A  great  number  of 
these  Indians  speak  broken  English.  This  island,  as 
well  as  numerous  other  places,  has  never  been  examined; 
but  samples  of  lead  have  been  given  by  the  Indians  to 
some  of  the  Company's  servants.  There  are  various 
minerals  found  here ;  but  it  would  require  a  large  party 
of  men  to  examine  this  island,  as  the  Indians  are  treach. 
erous  and  sly.  A  soft  kind  of  stone  is  found,  resembling 
slate,  whicli  the  Indians  make  into  pipes,  ornamented 
with  various  figures  cut  upon  them  resembling  men  and 
animals.  From  the  flat  file  they  make  beautiful  fiuted 
daggers ;  some  eighteen  inches  long,  as  highly  finished 
as  if  they  had  been  turned  out  of  a  first-rate  maker's 
hands  in  London.  They  likewise  make  hats  from  white 
roots  of  trees,  neatly  platted  together,  made  into  any 
shape.  Their  dress  is  not  very  dissimilar  from  that  of 
the  Tongarse  tribe. 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


197 


When  a  vessel  visits  these  tribes,  whieh  is  seldom,  as 
fur  is  rather  scarce  (particularly  beaver),  and  as  land  and 
sea  otter,  with  a  few  small  furs,  are  tiic  only  skins  they 
have,  and  these  not  plentiful,  they  will  conj^reg-ale,  as 
near  the  vessel  as  possible,  and  dance — throwing  them- 
selves into  different  postures,  and  makings  all  kinds  of 
grimaces — having  their  faces  highly  painted  ;  and  down 
from  the  eagle  completely  covering  their  hair,  with  a 
kind  of  rattle  in  their  hand,  and  a  musical  instrument 
resembling  the  tambourine.  The  dance  is  generally  ac 
companicd  with  a  song.  Their  houses  are  neatly  con- 
structed, standing  in  a  row  ;  having  large  images,  cut  out 
of  wood,  resembling  idols.  The  dwellings  have  all  paint- 
ed fronts,  showing  imitations  of  men  and  animals.  At- 
tached  to  their  houses,  most  of  them  have  large  potato 
gardens :  this  vegetable  was  first  given  to  them  by  an 
American  captain  ;  and  is  now  grown  in  abundance,  and 
traded  by  them  to  the  vessels  visiting  their  harbour,  and 
to  the  trader^  at  Fort  Simpson.  I  have  known  from  five 
to  eight  hundred  bushels  being  traded  in  one  season,  from 
these  Indians,  at  Fort  Simpson. 

In  the  latter  end  of  the  year  of  1834,  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Company  lost,  on  Rose  Point,  at  the  entrance  of  this 
liarbour,  a  fine  schooner,  of  about  one  hundred  tcTis, 
commanded  by  Captain  Duncan  ;  whieh  drove  upon 
sands,  on  her  beam  ends.  As  it  was  found  impossible 
float  her,  and  as  the  natives,  who  congregated  in  multi- 
tudes around  Mr.  Heath,  the  chief  officer,  and  his  men, 
while  attempting  to  clear  away  the  sand  from  her,  were 
armed,  and  showed  every  disposition  to  pillage  and  mur- 
der, the  crew  quitted  the  wreck,  at  night,  in  the  boats, 
and  pulled  for  Fort  Simpson.  After  several  days  of  toil, 
and  after  some  of  the  crew  were  frost-bitten,  they,  with 
hearts  full  of  joy,  reached  the  fort ;  not  knowing,  on  their 
journey,  but  that  rounding  every  point  of  land  they  might 
be  cut  off  from  a  volley  fired  by  the  treacherous  Indians. 
Captain  Duncan  thought  some  other  vessel  might  be  at 

17* 


:i<.' 


"I 


,vt 


198 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


the  for*  ;  if  so,  he  determined  again  to  return,  to  secure 
the  vessel  and  the  cargo.  But,  no  vessel  being  at  tl»o 
fort,  the  lost  schooner  was  lefl  to  the  savages.  We  aller. 
wards  learnt  that  their  plot  was  laid  ;  and  an  attack  was 
to  have  been  made  early  the  following  morning.  And  in 
dividing  the  plunder  amongst  themselves,  several  quarrels 
originated,  and  numbers  were  killed. 

The  Hudson's  Bay  Company  judiciously  let  tlie  matter 
rest,  without  chastising  the  natives,  and  gave  orders  that 
no  proceedings  were  to  be  taken  against  them,  but  to 
allow  the  trade  to  proceed  as  usual. 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 


1 


m 


Relative  claims  of  Great  Britain  and  America  to  the  Oregon 

Territory  considered. 

This  subject  has  been  already  much  discussed.  A 
simple  synopsis  of  the  whole  case  may  help  to  lead  any 
right-minded,  and  dispassionate  person  to  a  just  conclu- 
sion which  of  the  contendii  g  claimants  has  the  best 
right. 

It  i.s  universally  allowed  that  the  right  of  any  state  to 
the  jurisdiction  over  a  new  country  rests  on  three 
grounds: — 1st,  prior  discovery;  2d,  the  taking  formal 
possession  after  discovery ;  3d,  settlement ;  this  ground 
being  strengthened  if  the  formal  possession  be  continued 
by  settlement.  There  is  a  corollary  often  appended  to 
these,  i.  c,  contiguity  of  territory. 

Now  I  think  it  will  appear,  to  any  sober  mind,  that,  on 
each,  and  all  of  these  grounds,  the  British  claim  is  un- 
questionable. 1st,  As  to  discovery.  I  shall  mention  only 
the  chief  navigators  and  explorers,  avoiding  all  question- 
able and  unimportant  statements. 

In  1777,  before  the  Americans  had  any  existence  as  a 


vil 


If 


OREGON  TERRITORY, 


199 


tence  as  a 


nation,  Cookc,  the  Englishman,  carefully  explored  the 
coast,  as  far  as  the  forty-eighth  degree  :  examined  Nootka 
Sound  ;  and  then  proceeded  on  his  tour  of  survey  north- 
ward to  the  Arctic  Ocean,  until  he  ascertained  that  the 
continents  of  Asia  and  America  were  separated  by  a 
strait.  This  strait  Beehring  subscciuenily  passed,  not 
knowing,  as  Cookc  did,  its  character  and  geographical 
relations.  However,  most  unjustly,  the  strait  has  been 
named  after  Beehring. 

In  1787,  Berkeley,  the  well  known  English  navigator, 
explored  the  Strait  of  Fuca. 

In  the  same  year,  Dixon,  an  Englishman,  explored 
Queen  Charlotte's  Island,  calling  it  after  his  own  ship's 
name. 

In  1788,  Lieutenant  IMcars,  R.  N.,  who  had  long  been 
engaged  in  the  British  trade  in  China,  and  was  well  con- 
versant with  the  multitudinous  branches  of  the  Pacific 
intersecting  this  part  of  the  coast,  took  an  accurate  sur- 
vey of  the  Strait  of  Fuca  and  Nootka  Sound  ;  taking  for- 
mal possession  of  the  circumjacent  territory  in  his  Britan- 
nic Majesty's  name  ;  and  established  a  factory,  or  trading 
post,  at  Nootka  Sound. 

In  1792,  1793,  and  1794,  the  celebrated  English  navi- 
gator  Vancouver,  being  sent  out  by  government,  explored 
surveyed,  and  sounded  the  Strait  of  Fuca,  to  the  head  of 
Pugct's  Sound,  and  every  mile  of  all  the  intricate  wind- 
ings  of  this  coast.  It  may  be  said,  without  exaggeration, 
that,  in  the  world,  there  is  not  to  be  found  a  more  exten- 
sive and  complex  system  of  internal  navigation.  The 
labyrinth  of  bays,  sounds,  inlets,  creeks,  and  harbours, — 
promontories,  islands,  and  land  tongues,  with  the  countless 
sinuosities  of  land  and  water,  show  it  to  be  a  perfect  net- 
work. 

In  1792,  Brougliton,  Vancouver's  lieutenant,  command- 
ing another  ship,  explored  the  Columbia  River,  as  far  as 
one  hundred  miles  upwards,  taking  possession  (and  in  his 
sovereign's  name)  of  the  whole  coast,  as  British  territory ; 
and  gave  their  present  name  to  several  places. 


:>■'* 


200 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


In  17!)3,  M'KcnzIc  was,  in  his  inland  explorations, 
nobly  co-opcralin;r  with  V^ancouvcr,  in  fnrthcrin;;  ^'i*^  f^h- 
Jcct  of  (ireat  IJritain.  Perhap.s,  in  the  whole  history  ol' 
inland  discovery,  there  is  nothing  to  surpass  MMvenzic's 
amazing  perseverance,  courage,  and  sagacity.  At  a  time 
when  most  of  the  northwest  continent  was  totally  un- 
known, and  considered  impassable,  from  the  dreariness  of 
the  country,  the  destructive  rigour  of  the  climate,  and  the 
ferocity  of  the  natives,  he,  a  humble  officer  in  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Company,  conceived  the  daring  project  of  traversing 
the  whole  continent,  from  ocean  to  ocean  ;  and  not  only 
ronceived,  but — executed  it !  Having  crossed  the  Rocky 
Mountains — whose  existence  was  not  before  ascertained 
by  civilized  men,  he  descended  part  of  the  Tacoutche 
Tassc  river  and  reached  the  Pacific,  in  latitude  52^  3'. 

The  other  early  explorers  were  the  Spaniards — the  prin- 
(!ipal  of  whom  was  Heccta.  In  1775,  he  discovered  the 
Columbia.  In  a  Spanish  map,  printed  a  few  years  after, 
the  mouth  of  the  river  is  called  Entreda  dc  Heceta,  and 
Entreda  di  Assuncion ;  and  the  river  itself,  Rio  di  San 
Roquc :  because  he  explored  the  lower  parts  of  it  on  the 
fifteenth  and  sixteenth  of  August  ;  which  arc  the  festivals 
of  the  Assumption,  and  of  St.  Roch. 

Now  as  to  the  American  discovery.  Here  is  the  history 
of  it,  as  given  by  Washington  Irving  ;  who  puts  the  very 
best  face  on  the  matter  for  his  countrymen  :  "  Among  the 
American  ships  which  traded  along  the  northwest  coast, 
in  1792,  was  the  Columbia,  Captain  Gray,  of  Boston.  In 
the  course  of  her  voyage,  she  discovered  the  mouth  of  a 
large  river,  in  latitude  46°  19'  north.  Entering  it,  with 
some  difficulty,  on  account  of  sand-bars,  and  breakers, 
she  came  to  anchor  in  a  spacious  bay....  Captain  Gray 
did  not  ascend  the  river  farther  than  the  bay  in  question, 
which  still  bears  his  name.  After  putting  to  sea,  he  fell 
in  with  the  celebrated  discoverer,  Vancouver,  furnishing 
him  with  a  chart,  which  he  made  of  the  river.  Vancouver 
visited  the  river ;  and  his  lieutenant,  Broughton,  explored 


■!l^ 


OREGON  TERRITORV. 


201 


it  by  the  aid  of  Captain  (iray's  chart;  ascending  it  up. 
wards  of  one  liundrod  miles,  until  within  view  of  a  snowy 
mountain,  to  wliieh  he  ^ave  the  name  of  Mount  Hood, 
which  it  8till  retains.  The  existence  of  this  river  was 
known  long  hrfore  the  visits  of  Gray  and  Vancouver ;  but 
the  information  concerning  it  was  vague  and  indefinite ; 
being  gathered  from  the  rc|)ort8  of  Indians.  It  was 
spoken  of,  by  travellers,  as  the  Oregon,  and  as  th"  great 
river  of  the  west." 

Here  it  may  be  observed — 1st,  that  one  of  the  cs|)ecial 
objects  of  Vancouver's  mission  was  to  explore  this  river — 
which  was  well  known  to  the  English ;  and  which  Eng- 
land, by  previous  treaty  with  Spain,  had  as  good  a  right 
to  settle  on,  as  she  had  on  the  Thames,  or  Ilumber  :  the 
knowledge  was  not  at  all  vague,  but  definite  enough.  Nor 
was  this  knowledge  gathered  from  the  reports  of  the  In- 
dians,  but  from  the  published  accounts,  and  maps,  of 
Heceta's  discovery. — 2d,  that  Gray  was  only  a  private 
speculating  trader,  dodging  along  that  coast,  bartering 
for  furs. — 3d,  that  he  never  passed  farther  up  than  twelve 
miles,  as  he  himself  says. — 4th,  that  his  object  was  not  to 
explore  or  occupy. — 5th,  that  he  did  not  explore ;  for  he 
remained  in  the  river  not  more  than  ten  days ;  and,  during 
this  time,  was  weatherbound  in  the  bay,  where  he  took 
refuge;  and  as  to  his  chart,  Vancouver,  with  a  quiet 
sneer,  says,  "  it  was  not  much  what  it  professed  to  be ;" 
and  as  to  taking  possession^  this  poor  coaster  never  did  it, 
or  thought  of  it. 

In  1805.6,  after,  not  merely  the  existence  of  the  river, 
but  its  general  course,  and  the  adjacent  localities,  were 
well  known  to,  and  occupied  by,  British  subjects,  engaged 
in  the  fur  trade,  two  American  citizens,  Lewis  and  Clarke, 
who  had  travelled  overland  across  the  Rocky  Mountains, 
nearly  on  the  parallel  of  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia, 
reached,  by  means  of  the  southern  branch,  the  parts  of  it 
already  known.  Their  declared  object  was  "to  search 
for  a  water  communication  for  the  purposes  of  commerce." 


/ 


iiii 


:}02 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


'  'y 


In  1811,  Thompson,  a  scientific  member  of  the  Cana- 
dian Northwest  Company,  explored  and  surveyed  the 
whole,  from  its  source  along-  its  northern,  which  is  its 
principal^  branch,  to  its  mouth. 

When  Mears,  in  1788,  established  his  factory  in  Nootka 
Sound,  and  laid  the  foundation  of  a  very  extensive  British 
trade  along  the  coast,  Spain,  having-  many  previous  causes 
of  jealousy  against  Great  Britain,  took  this  opportunity  of 
evincing-  a  hostile  spirit;  and  despatched  Admiral  Martinez 
to  seize  on  the  property  of  the  settlers,  and  dispossess  them. 
The  British  government  took  fire — demanded,  and  received 
satisfaction  for  this  invasion  of  British  rights,  in  a  country 
to  which  Great  Britain  averred  she  had  as  strong  a  claim 
as  Spain  :  and,  in  truth,  a  stronger  claim,  so  far  as  ex- 
I  deration  and  possession  went.  The  consequence  was, 
that  a  treaty- — knov/n  as  "the  Convention  of  the  Escurial," 
was  signed  between  the  two  parties,  in  1790 ;  the  princi- 
pal provisions  of  which  were — that  the  subjects  of  either 
state  should  not  be  molested  in  fishing,  or  in  landing  for 
the  purpose  of  trading  with  the  natives,  or  of  establishing 
settlements,  in  places  not  already  occupied.  And,  by  the 
fifth  clause,  it  was  agreed,  that  *'  the  subjects  of  either 
state  should  have  free  access  to  the  settlements  then  made, 
or  thereafter  to  be  made  by  the  other."  This  treaty, 
which  was  laid  before  parliament  by  Mr.  Pitt,  was  cen- 
sured, as  limiting  the  British  right  of  settlement.  Tiie 
fifth  clause  was  the  special  subject  for  attack  by  the 
opposition ;  who  contended  that,  under  it  a  British  settle, 
ment  was  liable  to  interruption  and  invasion  every  mo- 
ment, at  the  caprice  or  interest  of  the  adverse  party. 
Mr.  Grey  (the  present  Earl  Grey)  said,  "  In  every  place 
in  which  we  might  settle,  access  was  left  for  the  Spaniards. 
Where  we  may  form  a  settlement  on  one  hill,  they  may 
erect  a  fort  on  another.  A  British  merchant  must  run 
all  the  risk  of  discovery^  and  all  the  expenses  of  establish- 
ment, for  a  property  which  was  liable  to  be  the  subject  of 
continual  dispute,  and  which  could  never  be  placed  on  a 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


203 


sagacious 


permanent   and    stable    footing."     Had    this 
statesman  foicsecn  the  present  state  of  the  Orcjjon  ques 
tion  he  could  not  have  spoken  more  correctly  ;  and,  if  we 
substitute  Americans  for  Spaniards,  his  description  will 
hold  good. 

Now,  let  it  be  recollected,  that  by  this  convention  in 
1790,  the  rights  of  Spain  and  Great  Britain  became  per- 
fectly  equalized,  and  all  differences,  as  to  priority  of  dis- 
covery and  right  of  colonization,  were  completely  settled. 
Be  it  observed,  that  no  other  state  had,  or  ever  pretended 
to  have,  any  right  whatever  to  possession  in  those  coun- 
tries.  The  discoveries,  made  by  Russia  in  the  more 
northern  latitudes  cannot  be  made  an  exception,  because 
they  never  did,  nor  could  interfere  with  tlie  terms  of  the 
convention. 

Great  Britain,  then,  stands  merely  on  her  primitive 
rights  of  discovery,  of  possession,  and  settlement.  And 
those  rights  she  has,  without  one  hint  of  concession, 
maintained  up  to  the  present  hour.  Since  1790  she  has 
made  no  new  claim  of  settlement,  and  for  the  best 
reason,  because  her  claim  was  as  strong  as  justice  could 
make  it. 

In  1807,  the  pretensions  of  the  Americans  to  the  Oregon 
became  the  subject  of  diplomacy  between  the  two  govern- 
ments. But  nothing  definite  was  done.  In  1814,  pending 
the  treaty  of  Ghent,  the  subject  was  renewed,  and  it  was 
then  agreed  on  that  "  the  places  seized  on  by  either  party 
should  be  restored."  Now  nothing  was  to  be  restored 
but  the  bare  walls  of  Astoria  (the  American  settlement 
before  described),  for  the  proprietor  had  already  sold  his 
effects  to  the  British  Northwest  Company.  This  shell  of 
an  insignificant  fort  they  never  afterwards  occupied.  In 
1818  the  subject  was  renewed.  And  then  it  was  agreed, 
that  the  country  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  sliould  be 
open  to  both  powers  for  ten  years,  without  prejudice  li:- 
their  respective  claim.  In  1827  the  former  covenant  w  a* 
confirjncd,   with   the    additional   stipulation,   that    vUhvr 


,  I'* 


im 


204 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


party  was  at  liberty  to  ainnnl  it,  on  giving  the  other  twelve 
nionths'  notice. 

In  a  lew  months  after  tlie  treaty  of  1818,  tlie  Federal 
government  eoncluded  a  treaty  with  Spain,  called  the 
"  Florida  Treaty ;"  by  which  Spain  ceded  to  these  States 
all  her  claims  and  pretensions  to  territory  north  of  the 
Ibrty-sccond  degree  of  latitude,  by  a  line  drawn  from  the 
sources  of  the  Arkansas  to  the  Pacific. 

It  is  on  this  cession  of  territorial  right  on  the  part  of 
Spain  that  America  partly  rests  her  sole  right  to  the  ter- 
ritory  of  Oregon.  But  this  assertion  of  right  is,  on  the 
very  face  of  it,  absurd  and  untenable.  Spain  could  not 
transfer  what  she  did  not  then  possess.  Spain  never  had 
exclusive  possession  of  the  country,  and  even  if  she  had, 
she  surrendered  it,  by  "  the  convention  of  the  Escurial." 
in  1790.  After  that  she  had  no  more  than  a  right  of 
joint  occupancy  with  Great  Britain.  But  they  assume 
another  ground  of  right,  i.  e.,  the  discovery  of  the  Co- 
lumbia  by  Gray.  This  ground  is  as  untenable  as  the 
other,  and  almost  inconsistent  with  it.  If  the  American 
right  be  sufficiently  strong  (as  it  is  not)  when  founded  on 
the  cession  by  Spain,  why  resort  to  another  ground  ? — 
the  priority  of  discovery,  settlement,  &c.  Now,  this 
alleged  discovery  did  not  take  place  till  two  years  after 
the  treaty  of  1790.  And  for  ttoenty-six  years  after  this 
alleged  discovery  they  did  not  set  up  such  a  claim  of  ex- 
elusive  right.  For  they  only  contended,  in  1814  and 
1818,  that  their  claim  was  as  good  as  that  of  Great 
Britain.  Besides,  Gray  was  not  the  discoverer  of  this 
river. 

After  the  government  of  the  United  States  had  con- 
eluded  the  Florida  treaty  with  Spain,  it  entirely  altered 
its  tone  with  respect  to  the  Oregon  country ;  and  when 
the  negotiations  were  next  renewed,  in  1827,  between  it 
and  the  government  of  Great  Britain,  it  pushed  its  pre- 
tensions  to  the  boldest  lengths.  It  then  claimed,  through 
its  plenipotentiary — Mr.  Gallatin,  from  the  42d  to  the 
49th  degree  of  latitude,  without  reserve. 


,if- 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


205 


other  twelve 


srer  of  this 


With  rcspcet  to  the  diseovcry  of  the  Columhin,  it  lias 
been  already  shown,  that  the  first  discoverer  was  not 
Gray,  but  Hcccta  ;  and  the  first  explorer  was  not  (»ray, 
but  Bronghton. 

As  to  the  surrender  of  all  the  rights  of  Spain  to 
America  by  the  Florida  treaty,  the  plain  answer  is,  that 
Spain  only  didy  and  only  could,  surrender  what  she  herself 
enjoyed  after  the  convention  of  1790,  i.  c,  the  right  of 
joint  trading"  and  occupancy  with  Great  Britain.  An  ex- 
clusive right  she  never  had.  And  though  a  war  broke 
out  between  the  two  countries  subsequently  to  1790,  yet 
in  the  treaty  of  peace,  afterwards  signed,  Spain  did  not 
rescind,  or  even  propose  to  rescind,  the  covenant  of  1790, 
which  was  of  a  fixed  and  permanent  character. 

As  to  the  surrender  of  Astoria,  it  ought  to  be  noticed, 
that  the  Americans  showed  some  "  sharp  practice."  All 
the  property  of  Astoria  was  sold  to  the  Northwest  Com- 
pany, by  its  proprietor,  who  anticipjited  the  coming- 
storm,  and  sold  before  the  formal  seizure  of  the  fort  by 
Captain  Black,  of  the  British  war  sloop,  the  Raccoon. 
The  treaty  stipulated  that  "  all  the  possessions  taken  by 
either  party,  during  or  after  the  war,  should  be  restored." 
Strictly  speaking,  there  was  nothing,  except  a  denuded 
post,  to  be  restored  to  the  Americans,  for  there  was  no 
property  lost.  The  fort  was,  however,  restored,  but  it  has 
not  since  been  occupied  by  the  Americans,  which  shows 
their  surrender  of  the  ground  of  occupancy.  It  is  now 
used  by  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company. 

Lord  Castlereagh,  writing  on  the  4th  of  February,  1818, 
on  this  subject,  to  the  British  Minister  at  Washington, 
says,  "In  signifying  to  Mr.  Adams  the  full  acquiescence 
of  your  government  in  the  re-occupation  of  the  limited 
position  (i.  c,  Astoria)  which  the  United  States  held  in 
that  river  (the  Columbia)  at  the  breaking  out  of  the  war, 
you  will,  at  the  same  time,  assert  the  claim  of  Great 
Britain  to  that  territory,  upon  whicli  the  American  settle- 
ment must  be  considered  as  an  encroachment.^^    He  also 

18 


,tii, 


206 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


says,  that  the  British  g-ovcrnment  "  are  not  prepared  to 
admit  the  validity  of  the  title  of  the  United  States  to  this 
settlement."  Lord  Bathurst,  in  his  despatch  to  the 
Northwest  Company  on  this  suhject,  says,  "  without, 
however,  admitting-  the  right  of  that  government  (the 
United  States  government)  to  the  possession  in  question." 
Could  lang-uage  more  pointedly  convey  the  opinion  of  the 
British  government,  that  the  Americans  had  not  a  shadow 
of  title  to  the  country,  than  these  despatches  ?  The 
simple  truth  is,  that  it  was  not  thought  worth  while  to 
keep  up  a  contention  about  a  paltry  post.  It  was  sur- 
rendered. But  the  surrender  was  accompanied  by  many 
protests,  that  it  should  not  be  tortured  into  any  recogni- 
tion of  a  right  of  occupation  on  the  part  of  America.  On 
the  contrary,  the  settlement  was  declared  to  be  an  en- 
croachment  on  British  rights,  in  despatches  publicly 
addressed  by  British  ministers  to  public  servants,  and 
public  companies. 

As  to  contiguity  of  territory. — The  American  territory 
is  not  more  contiguous  to  the  Oregon  than  the  British  is. 
In  fact,  it  is  less  contiguous,  for  the  undisputed  posses- 
sions of  Great  Britain  in  North  America  are  absolutely 
dovetailed  into  that  country,  so  much  so,  that  if,  by  any 
fatuity  or  criminality  of  British  statesmanship,  the 
country  were  to  be  surrendered  to  the  avarice  of  the 
Americans,  it  would  be  almost  impossible  to  strike  a  line 
of  boundary.  But  the  case  is  very  different  as  to  the 
frontiers  of  the  United  States.  There  nature  has  erected 
a  wide  and  lofty  barrier.  After  you  pass  the  western 
limits  of  the  States,  there  is,  for  many  weeks'  journey, 
a  vast  arid  wilderness,  yielding  no  sustenance  for  even 
wild  man,  or  wild  beast.  Then,  after  that,  there  rises  to 
the  clouds,  and  above  them,  the  appalling  range  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  towering,  sometimes,  to  the  height  of 
eighteen  thousand  feet,  capped  with  eternal  snow.  Then 
again,  these  being  crossed,  the  traveller  has  to  pass  over 
hundreds  of  miles,  through  crags,  defiles,  and  deserts, 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


207 


before  he  approaclics  the  valley  of  Columbia.  Tliis  is 
contiguity  of  territory !  In  the  same  way  may  the 
Pacha  of  Egypt  claim  the  land  of  tiie  Niger  as  an  appen- 
dage to  the  land  of  the  Nile. 

The  object  of  the  Americans  is  to  have  the  dominion 
of  the  whole  continent,  from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Pacific  ; 
and  to  exclude  all  Europeans,  especially  British  subjects, 
from  all  habitation  there.  This  they  do  not  disguise  : 
indeed,  they  are  every  day  growing  bolder,  and  more 
exclusive  in  their  tone. 

The  forty-ninth  degree  of  latitude  was  the  extremest 
northern  limit  that  the  Americans  ever  set,  formerly 
(even  in  1827),  to  their  claim,  in  their  boldest  assumption 
of  right.  But  now  they  have  transcended  all  their  former 
pretensions  by  many  degrees ;  for  they  claim  as  far  north 
as  the  fifty-fourth  degree  !  The  President,  in  his  formal 
message  to  Congress,  on  the  5th  of  December,  1842,  says: 
"  The  United  States  have  always  contended  that  their 
rights  appertained  to  the  whole  region  of  country  lying 
on  the  Pacific,  and  embraced  within  42^  and  54°  40'  of 
north  latitude," 

Commentary  on  so  false  and  monstrous  an  assertion  as 
this  is  thoroughly  useless.  If  concession  be  made  to  this 
claim,  they  will,  by  and  by,  claim  as  far  as  the  Pole. 
In  a  word,  nothing  will  satisfy  them,  short  of  the  extinc- 
tion of  British  power  and  influence  throughout  the  north- 
em  continent  of  America.  And  it  only  remains  for  the 
British  government,  and  the  British  people,  to  consider 
whether  they  will  tolerate  this. 


.»-> 


■  i.i  ■ 


...v. 


"M  -> 


'<■; 


/■    r 


^-% 


I'l 


208 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


CHAPTER  XIX. 


Flalheads — Blackfeet — Snakes — Piutes — Strange  probationary 

rites. 

The  Flalheads  are,  comparatively,  very  fair  in  com- 
plexion, and  remarkably  well  made  and  active ;  with  oval 
faces,  and  a  milJ,  and  playful  expression  of  countenance. 
They  arc  described,  by  those  who  have  the  best  opportu- 
nities of  knowing-  them  collectively,  as  well  as  indi- 
vidually, as  moral  and  honest  in  all  their  dealing's — brave 
in  the  field — amenable  to  their  chiefs — fond  of  cleanli- 
ness,  and  decided  enemies  to  theft  and  falsehood  of  every 
description.  They  are  also  free  from  backbiting  and 
laziness,  which  are  so  common  among  other  tribes.  The 
women  are  dutiful  and  affectionate  wives  and  mothers ; 
and  conjugal  infidelity  is  scarcely  known  amongst  them. 
The  dress  of  the  men  and  women  resembles  that  of  other 
tribes  living  in  rude  comfort. 

The  principal  chief  of  the  tribe  is  hereditary ;  but, 
from  their  constant  wars,  they  have  adopted  the  salutary 
custom  of  electing,  as  their  leader  in  battle,  that  warrior 
in  whom  is  combined  the  greatest  portion  of  wisdom, 
strength,  and  bravery.  The  election  takes  place  an- 
nually ;  and,  after  the  expiration  of  his  period  of  military 
chieftainship,  the  leader  sinks  into  his  original  position, 
unless  he  be  re-elected.  When  at  home,  this  leader  has 
no  authority  whatever ;  but  is  as  equally  subject  as  any 
other  warrior  to  the  power  of  the  hereditary  chief.  But 
when  the  warriors  set  out  on  their  hunting  excursions  to 
the  plains,  he  assumes  the  chief  command,  which  he 
exercises  with  absolute  sway  till  their  return.    On  their 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


209 


advance  towards  an  enemy,  he  always  takes  the  lead ; 
and  on  their  return,  or  retreat,  he  brings  up  the  rear. 
His  post  is  one  of  the  greatest  danger,  as  well  as  of  re- 
sponsibility and  power.  He  carries  a  long  whip  with  a 
thick  handle,  which  is  decorated  with  scalps  of  tliose 
whom  he  himself  slew,  and  with  feathers ;  and  he  gene- 
rally appoints  two  active  warriors  as  his  subalterns,  or 
aides-de-camp.  Great  regularity  is  observed  during  the 
march ;  and  if  any  warrior  fall  out  of  the  ranks,  or  be 
guilty  of  any  breach  of  discipline,  he  always  acts  with 
strict  justice  and  impartiality ;  and  punishes  one  of  his 
own  officers,  if  guilty  of  any  disobedience  or  irregularity, 
with  as  much  severity  as  any  other  offender.  Hence,  as 
well  as  from  a  sense  of  public  expediency  and  duty,  his 
authority  is  patiently  obeyed.  After  the  conclusion  of 
the  campaign,  and  on  their  arriving  at  their  own  home, 
the  hereditary  chief  convenes  a  public  meeting,  and  they 
proceed  to  a  new  election.  There  is  no  canvassing  or 
intriguing ;  and  if  the  last  leader  be  superseded,  he  sub- 
mits without  a  murmur. 

They  rarely  marry  out  of  their  own  nation ;  and  will 
not  easily  consent  that  any  of  their  women  should  become 
the  wife  of  a  white  man.  Their  marriages  are  contracted 
only  with  the  consent  of  the  bride's  parents  or  natural 
guardians,  to  whom  presents  are  made  by  the  bride- 
groom.  He,  too,  in  return,  receives  presents.  This 
custom  prevails  among  most  of  the  tribes  west  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains.  On  the  marriage-day,  there  is  a 
meeting  of  mutual  friends  at  the  lodge  of  the  bride's 
father,  or  next  relation,  who  acts  as  her  guardian ;  and 
they  smoke  the  pipe  of  peace  and  friendship.  Here  the 
bride  receives  a  lecture  as  to  her  future  duties  as  a  wife 
and  mother.  She  is  exhorted  to  be  chaste,  discreet,  in- 
dustrious, and  silent ;  and  when  absent,  with  her  hus- 
band, among  other  tribes,  always  to  stay  at  home,  and 
have  no  intercourse  with  strange  Indians.  She  then  re- 
tires with  the  old  women  to  an  adjoining  hut,  where  she 

18* 


210 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


.'■■  » 


undergoes  ablution ;  and  is  decked  out  in  licr  bridal 
finery.  She  is  then  led  back  to  her  father's,  or  guardian's 
lodge — is  complimented,  and  receives  another  lecture  of 
advice.  After  tliis,  a  procession  is  formed  to  conduct  tlic 
couple  to  their  own  lodge :  the  men,  conducting  tlic 
bridegroom,  move  on  first,  bearing  flambeaux  of  cedar, 
in  a  slow  and  solemn  pace,  singing  war-songs  in  praise 
of  the  bridegroom's  bravery,  and  of  their  own  victories 
over  their  enemies— especially  the  Blackfeet.  The  bride 
follows  at  a  short  distance,  surrounded  by  a  group  of 
women,  old  and  young ;  some  of  whom  are  rejoicing  at 
the  prospect  of  happiness  before  her ;  others — especially 
her  young  companions — crying,  at  the  prospect  of  losing 
her  unrestrained  society  thenceforward.  When  the  whole 
party  arrive  at  tlie  door  of  the  young  couple's  lodge,  they 
form  a  circle,  and  commence  dancing  and  singing  for 
about  twenty  minutes.  After  this,  tlie  pipe  of  peace  goes 
round ;  the  company  offer  many  prayers  for  the  future 
welfare  of  the  bridal  pair;  and  depart. 

The  country  of  the  Flatheads  presents  a  pleasing  diver- 
sity of  woods  and  plains — ^valleys  and  mountains — lakes 
and  rivers;  and  is  well  stocked  with  deer,  mountain- 
sheep,  beavers,  otters,  martens,  wolves,  lynxes,  &.C.,  wild- 
fowl and  fish,  besides  esculent  roots ;  so  that  they  have 
abundant  means  of  subsistence  and  clothing;  and  of 
traffic  as  well. 

The  Flatheads  are  polite  and  unobtrusive.  When  one 
speaks,  the  rest  pay  attention ;  and  every  one  very 
quietly  gives  his  reasons  for  assenting,  or  dissenting, 
from  any  proposition.  Even  the  children  are  more  peace- 
able than  other  children ;  and  thousfh  hundreds  of  them 
may  be  seen  together  at  play,  there  is  no  quarrelling 
among  them. 

There  is  among  them  a  strong  devotional  feeling, 
which  is  much  encouraged  by  the  Hudson's  Bay  Com- 
pany. Sunday  is  inviolably  kept  sacred  by  them.  They 
will  not  raise  their  camp  on  that  day ;  neither  will  they 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


211 


hunt,  fi<h,  trade,  or  perform  any  kind  of  labour,  except  in 
cases  of  extreme  danger  on  that  day  :  they  also  spend  a 
part  of  it  in  prayer  and  religious  ceremonies.  Tiie  chief, 
who  is  at  the  same  time,  generally,  priest,  asscmhles  the 
community,  and  commences  a  form  of  prayer,  in  which 
they  all  join  in  an  occasional  chaunt,  or  chorus.  He 
then  exhorts  them  to  good  conduct — to  be  diligent  in 
providing  for  their  families — to  abstain  from  lying  and 
stealing — to  avoid  quarrelling,  or  cheating  in  their  play  ; 
and  to  be  just  and  hospitable  to  all  strangers.  During 
this  time  of  worship,  all  business  in  the  camp  is  sus- 
pended :  and  if  an  Indian  is  riding  by,  he  dismounts ; 
holds  his  horse,  and  attends  with  devotion  till  all  is  over. 
At  the  conclusion,  the  priest  says,  »*  I  hftive  done ;"  to 
which  they  all  respond  aloud.  They  have  also  their 
prayers  on  week-days,  in  the  morning  or  evening.  Some- 
times on  an  evening,  the  chief,  or  priest,  delivers  these 
prayers  and  exhortations  on  horseback,  moving  slowly 
about  the  camp. 

This  devotional  feeling,  and  respect  for  morality,  pre- 
vails among  the  Nez  Perces  also,  and  other  tribes  in  the 
midland  region.  And  it  may  be  affirmed,  that  there  are 
many  leading  points  of  similarity  between  the  Flatheads 
and  these  tribes.  They  afford  an  ample  and  excellent 
field  for  the  labours  of  zealous  and  judicious  missionaries; 
who  would  have  but  little  difficulty  in  converting  them 
to  Christianity — the  morality  and  benevolence  of  which 
they  already,  to  some  extent,  practise ;  and  for  the  recep- 
tion of  which  they  are  already,  in  a  great  measure,  pre- 
pared. But  then  the  missionaries  should  be  men  who 
would  enforce  the  truth  and  usefulness  of  their  preaching 
by  the  purity  of  their  lives;  for  as  they  themselves  gene- 
rally practise  what  their  preachers  inculcate,  they  would 
at  once  keenly  notice  any  discrepancy  between  doctrine 
and  conduct. 

They  believe  in  the  existence  of  a  good  and  evil  spirit ; 
and  in  a  future  state  of  rewards  and  punishments.     They 


liUt- 


212 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


bclievCf  that  after  death  the  good  will  go  to  a  country 
where  there  is  perpetual  suinmcr ;  and  delightful  rivers 
and  plains,  abounding  in  fish,  buffalo,  and  all  kinds  of 
game — that  they  will  there  meet  their  parents,  wives, 
children,  and  other  relations  and  friends — and  will  there 
spend  their  time  in  hunting,  fishing,  and  amusement; 
free  from  the  terrors  of  war,  or  the  apprehensions  of  cold, 
or  famine.  But  the  bad,  they  believe,  will  be  consigned 
to  regions  of  eternal  snow ;  where  they  will  be  shivering 
with  cold,  and  sinking  with  thirst  and  hunger — behold, 
ing,  at  a  distance,  fires,  which  they  cannot  approach — 
water,  which  they  cannot  touch — and  herds  of  deer  and 
buffalo,  which  they  cannot  kill:  in  a  word,  tantalized 
with  the  sight  of  all  the  good  things  of  life,  which  they 
must  not  use.'  They  think  the  boundary  between  the 
dreary  Tartarus  occupied  by  the  wicked,  and  the  Elysian 
fields  of  the  good,  is  a  jungle  full  of  panthers,  wolves, 
and  all  other  noxious  and  dangerous  animals.  However, 
they  imagine  tiiat  this  place  of  punishment  is  rather  a 
purgatory  than  a  hell ;  and  that  according  to  the  different 
degrees  of  the  crimes  of  the  wicked,  they  will  sooner  or 
later  be  emancipated ;  and  when  their  offences  are  ex- 
piated, be  permitted  to  join  their  former  friends,  in  tlic 
liappy  regions  of  the  good. 

Tlieir  code  of  morality  is  very  simple,  and  compre- 
hensive. They  say  that  honesty — bravery — truth — duti- 
ful submission  to  their  parents — obedience  to  their  chiefs 
— and  affection  for  their  wives,  children,  and  families, 
are  the  virtues  which  entitle  them  to  a  place  of  happiness 
hereafler ;  whereas  the  opposite  vices  condemn  them  to 
a  place  of  misery. 

They  have  also  some  idea  of  a  fallen  state.  They 
have  a  traditionary  belief  that  beavers  are  a  fallen  race 
of  Indians ;  who  disobliged  the  Good  Spirit,  and  were 
therefore  condemned  to  their  present  shape — but  that  in 
due  time  they  will  be  restored  to  their  humanity.  They 
allege  that  beavers  have  certain  powers  of  speech ;  and 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


213 


that  they  have  heard  them  talk  with  each  other — holding 
council ;  and  Bentencinj^  offending^  mcmber«  to  punish, 
ment.  These  notions  about  beavers  are  lield  by  several 
other  Indian  tribes. 

The  Black  feet  are  a  numerous  tribe,  and  the  best, 
looking  of  all  the  American  Indians ;  who  roam  far  and 
wide  on  both  sides  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  arc 
generally  represented  by  natives  and  American  traders, 
as  the  sworn  foes  alike  of  white  men  and  red.  But 
though  they  are,  unquestionably,  a  fierce  race,  yet  I  have 
spoken  to  many  free  hunters  and  trappers,  as  fierce  and 
unscrupulous  as  themselves — men  who  would  find  no  in- 
terest in  undervaluing  the  perils  of  their  own  pursuit, 
and  would  not  be  disposed  to  soflen  down  the  character 
of  these  Indians — men  who  knew  the  Blackfeet  well; 
and  I  have  heard  from  them  that  they  were  not  devils  so 
black  as  they  were  painted.  They  obtained  the  character 
of  ferocity ;  and  they  were  therefore  considered  as  fair 
human  game,  to  be  hunted  down  by  the  surrounding  na. 
tions,  whom  they  used  to  conquer  in  war ;  and  by  the 
Americans,  against  whose  encroachments  on  Indian  free, 
dom  and  territory,  they  oflTered,  and  offer  still,  the  most 
formidable  stand.  They  are  an  austere  and  haughty 
race-^occupy,  generally,  countries  (as  they  spread  their 
predatory  and  migratory  rovings  over  a  vast  expanse, 
which  abounds  in  all  the  means  of  subsistence)  which 
bring  them  on  the  American  confines,  and  which  are 
worth  preserving.  They  have,  they  say,  lieard  of  the 
Americans ;  who  preached  liberty,  and  proved  it  by 
shaking  off  the  dominion  of  foreigners ;  but  have  shown 
how  false  are  their  pretensions  and  their  professions  of 
general  freedom,  when  the  first  use  they  have  made  of 
the  establishment  of  their  own  independence,  even  in  a 
strange  land,  was  to  rob  those  whose  independence  in 
their  own  native  land  was  never  disputed  since  they  were 
created  by  the  Great  Spirit. 

They  say,  too,  that  these  white  men  did  not  come  to 


.  I'l 


214 


OREQON  TERRITORY. 


them  orij^inally  in  a  cundid  puise — cither  as  fricndn  or 
enemies ;  but  that,  contrary  to  all  tlie  notions  they  enter, 
tained  of  truth  and  valour,  they  came  to  them  as  treaclu 
crouH  liars.  They  smoked  with  them  the  pipe  of  jicace 
and  fidelity — broke  that  pledge — and  then  huiUcd  tiie  red 
men,  like  wolves,  from  tlie  plains  and  hills  that  were 
granted  to  their  fathers  from  uU  time.  These  white  men 
pretended  to  give  them  the  great  blessings  which  their 
own  spirit  gave  them ;  but  in  place  of  this  they  gave 
them — not  more  meat,  nor  more  fruits,  nor  more  bread 
from  roots,  nor  a  better  mode  of  making  arrows,  nor 
softer  beds — but  Imrning  ioater  (spirituous  liquors)  which 
the  Bad  Spirit  made ;  and  which  made  them  mad ;  and 
not  friends,  but  enemies,  to  each  other.  They  also  say, 
that  these  white  men  who  come  from  the  direction  of  the 
rising  sun,  (the  United  States  Americans,)  have  endea- 
voured to  make  them  enemies  to  the  other  white  men, 
who  come  from  other  quarters.  These,  and  a  thousand 
other  Justifications  for  their  hostility  to  the  white  men, 
especially  the  Americans,  I  have  heard  from  those  who 
have  had  opportunities  of  familiar  converse  with  them. 

Independently  of  these  abstract  reasons  for  their  dis. 
like  of  the  citizen  white  men,  as  the  wanton  destroyers 
of  the  whole  red  race,  the  conduct  of  the  individual  spe- 
cimens of  the  American  character  who  creep  in  among 
them,  would  almost  justify  their  antipathy. 

A  wcll-principled  and  high-minded  American  writer — 
Mr.  Townsend,  who  made  a  journey  through  these  re- 
gions with  an  American  party,  says,  "  This  hostility  is 
kept  alive  from  year  to  year  by  incessant  provocations 
on  the  part  of  the  white  hunters  and  traders,  who  are  at 
best  but  intruders  on  the  rightful  domains  of  the  red  men 
of  ihc  wilderness.  Many  a  night  have  I  sat  at  the  fire- 
side, and  listened  to  the  recital  of  bloody  and  ferocious 
scenes,  in  which  the  narrators  were  the  actors,  and  the 
poor  Indians  the  victims.  And  I  have  felt  my  blood  boil 
with  indignation,  to  hear  the  diabolical  acts  applauded 


OREGON  TtBfMTORY. 


315 


hy  tliosc  for  whose  amnactncnt  tlicy  wrrc  nnrratrd  :'* 
(i.  p.,  the  company  of  the  American  fnr  v\i\7.<  iis  wlio  ac- 
companied him  in  his  route  ov  rland  thr/»(i|^h  the  Koeky 
Mountains  to  the  Cohimhia,  or  Oregon  territory.)  "  Mnny 
a  merciless  marauder  was  made  by  theses  midnijrjjt  tnUii 
of  rapine  and  murder — many  a  stripling",  in  whose  tender 
mind  the  seeds  of  virtue  and  honesty  had  never  yet  ger- 
minated, burned  for  an  opportunity  of  loading  his  pack- 
horse  with  the  beaver-skins  of  some  solitary  Black-toot 
trapper ;  who  was  to  be  murdered,  and  despoiled  of  the 
property  he  had  acquired  by  months  of  toil  and  danger." 
The  writer  proceeds  to  point  out  a  darker  feature  in  the 
character  of  his  countrymen — "  those  nohlc  freemen  (to 
use  the  words  of  a  member  of  Congress)  who  are  the 
pioneers  to  prepare  the  road  of  civilization^  of  Christi' 
anity^  and  of  our  institutions^  to  our  territories  on  the 
banks  of  the  Columbia."  (!) — Says  Mr.  Townsend,  in 
continuation  of  this  subject,  "  Acts  of  this  kind  are  by 
no  means  uncommon :  and  the  subjects  of  this  sort  of 
atrocity  are  not  always  the  poor  Indians.  White  men 
themselves  often  fall  by  the  hands  of  their  companions^ 
when  by  good  fortune  and  industry  they  have  succeeded 
in  loading  their  horses  with  fur !  The  fortunate  trapper 
is  treacherously  murdered  by  one  w^ho  has  eaten  from  the 
same  dish,  and  drank  from  the  same  cup  with  him  :  and 
the  assassin  triumphantly  returns  to  the  camp  witli  his 
ill-gotten  property.  If  his  companion  be  inquired  for, 
the  answer  is,  that  some  days  ago  they  parted  company  : 

and  he  will  probably  soon  join But  he  is  soon 

forgotten;  or  perhaps  only  remembered  by  one,  more 
steadfast  than  the  rest,  who  seizes  with  avidity  the  first 
opportunity  of  murdering  an  unoffending  Indian  in  re- 
venge for  the  death  of  his  friend." 

The  ferocity  of  the  Blackfeet  towards  the  white  man 
has,  however,  latterly  been  much  mitigated  by  intercourse 
with  the  traders  and  out-trapping  parties  of  the  Company. 
These  act  towards  them  with  uniform  civility,  liberality, 


216 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


and  justice,  and  go  openly,  and  with  known  authority, 
and  also  under  responsibility  to  the  Company :  not  in  the 
sneaking-,  thieving-,  bullying,  and  plundering-  character  of 
the  Americans,  who  can  give  little,  and  are  disposed  to 
give  less,  in  tlic  way  of  trade,  but  cheat  and  plunder  as 
mucii  as  they  can,  and  are  not  under  any  control.  Mr. 
Townsend,  speaking  of  a  trapping  party  in  the  service  of 
the  Company,  and  under  the  command  of  Mr.  M'Kay, 
consisting  of  thirty  men,  Indians,  French  Canadians,  and 
half-breeds,  observes,  "  I  admire  the  order,  decorum,  and 
strict  subordination  which  exists  among  his  men,  so 
different  from  ichat  I  have  been  accustomed  to  see  in  par- 
ties composed  of  Americans steady,  determined 

perseverance,  and  bold  measures,  aided  by  a  rigid  self- 
example,  made  them  as  clay  in  his  hand,  and  has  finally 
reduced  them  to  their  present  admirable  condition." 
The  Blackfeet  appreciate  this  mode  of  dealing  and  inter- 
course,  and  in  general  reciprocate  fairly  enougii,  con- 
sidering the  short  duration  of  time  in  which  they  have 
been  brought  to  even  a  remote  knowledge  of  principle  of 
fair-dealing  or  humanity  existing  among  the  whites.  In 
their  own  peculiar  districts  they  will  deal  peaceably  with 
the  servants  of  the  Company  ;  but  when  they  go  abroad 
on  "war-parties,"  or  predatory  excursions,  they  do  not 
conceive  themselves  bound  by  any  duty  to  act  very 
scrupulously,  and  they  will  slay,  or  plunder,  or  trade,  as 
their  feelings  or  interest  may  lead  them. 

The  Snakes,  and  other  tribes,  do  the  same.  They  think 
that,  when  confined  within  their  own  country,  and  when 
therefore  in  a  state  of  peace,  they  are  responsible  for  all 
their  actions,  and  must  eschew  all  outrage,  and  their 
country  and  nation  are  free  from  all  imputation.  But 
when  they  roam  abroad  into  other  countries,  in  their 
marauding  expeditions,  then  they  imagine  that  their  own 
outrages  must  be  considered  as  the  legitimate  duties  of 
their  calling  and  their  necessities;  and  that  any  misdeeds 
of  theirs  ought  to  be  saddled  on  the  proper  occupants  ot 


fl 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


217 


tlio  invaded  country.  If  a  white  man,  for  instance,  is 
iAa.in  by  the  Blackfeet  in  the  Snake  country,  they  will 
justify  themselves  by  the  argument  that  he  was  an 
enemy,  else  v:hy  would  the  Snakes  have  him  there  ? 
The  Snakes,  in  a  similar  case,  would  make  the  same 
plea. 

The  Snake  Indians,  who  embrace  many  tribes,  inhabit 
a  wide  extent  of  country  at  the  head  of  Snake  River, 
above  and  below  Fort  Hall,  and  the  vicinity  of  Great 
Bear  River,  and  Great  Salt  Lake.  They  are  a  migratory 
race,  and  generally  occupy  the  southeastern  portion  of 
the  Oregon.  Horses  and  dogs  are  their  only  domestic 
animals.  Their  clothing  does  not  differ  much  from  that 
of  other  inland  Indians.  The  hair,  which  like  that  of 
the  Blackfeet  grows  to  an  extraordinary  length,  is  the 
only  covering  lor  the  head  ;  in  general  it  is  braided  and 
twisted  round  the  head,  and,  thus  managed,  forms  a 
strong  protection,  not  only  against  the  weather,  but 
against  an  offensive  weapon — far  better  than  cap  or 
helmet.  The  ffemales,  for  the  most  part,  wear  it  hanging 
down  the  back  in  queues.  Their  lodges  are  of  a  conical 
shape,  covered  with  skins.  Their  weapons  are  bows, 
arrows,  and  guns.  Their  general  stock  in  trade  consists 
of  horses,  the  skins  of  deer,  elks,  buffaloes,  beavers,  otters, 
and  fish.  They  are  represented  by  most  persons,  as 
pacific  and  hospitable ;  especially  those  races  wiihin,  or 
bordering  on  the  Rocky  Mountains.  They  have  obtained 
credit  from  travellers  and  traders  for  hospitality,  and 
honesty  in  all  their  dealings,  and  for  possessing  high 
notions  of  morality  and  self-restraint.  Knowing  the 
dangerous  and  degrading  consequences  of  tlie  use  of 
spirituous  liquors,  they  refrain  from  them,  saying,  that, 
though  exciting  for  the  moment,  they  eventually  enfeeble 
them,  and  render  them  unfit  for  the  purposes  of  hunting, 
and  of  defending  themselves  against  their  enemies — they 
make  them  quarrelsome  to  their  wives  and  children,  to 
whom  they  are  bound  to  be  kind,  and  induce  them  to 

19 


mMII: 


218 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


fight  among-st  themselves,  when  they  ought  all  to  be 
united  against  the  common  enemy,  and  that  their  use 
reduces  tlio  bravest  and  most  crafty  chief  to  the  condition 
of  the  lowest  Indian. 

Though  this  general  picture,  given  by  some  travellers 
and  writers,  holds  good  in  the  main,  of  tiie  various  tribes 
classed  under  the  head  of  Snake  Indians,  and  holds 
especially  so  in  the  fertile  countries  verging  on  the  con- 
fines of  the  territories  of  the  United  States,  and  in  those 
bordering  on  that  of  their  enemies,  yet  there  arc  many 
sad  drawbacks,  as  in  the  barren  lands,  within  the  Oregon 
territory,  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  many  of  the 
tribes  who  live  on  fish  are  filthy  in  the  extreme — ill  clad, 
and  selfish.  Of  the  Kagouse,  and  Perces,  who  live 
farther  west,  in  a  better  soil  and  under  a  more  genial 
climate,  and  who  have  closer  intercourse  with  the  traders, 
such  a  picture  holds  better  still.  The  Perces  are  in 
general,  a  very  good-looking  race,  both  men  and  women. 
But,  of  all  the  inland  races,  the  Flatheads  hold  the  first 
rank,  in  point  of  intelligence  and  civilization,  and  social 
intercourse  with  the  whites,  and  personal  comforts. 

Among  the  many  singular  narratives  of  his  own  adven- 
tures, and  of  the  customs  and  superstitions  of  the  remote 
inland  tribes,  narrated  by  Mr.  Peter  Skein  Ogden,  one  of 
the  chief  factors,  he  mentions  the  following :  "  Among 
many  of  the  warlike  tribes  of  the  Rocky  Mountains 
there  exists  a  remarkable  custom  of  initiatory  probation 
for  the  young  men,  in  the  arts  of  pillage  and  war.  When 
arrived  at  the  age  judged  fit  for  bearing  arms,  and  being 
useful  to  the  tribe,  they  assemble  in  bands,  to  the  number 
of  thirty  or  fifly,  according  to  circumstances,  in  the 
spring;  and  taking  formal  leave  of  their  relations  and 
friends,  depart  to  some  secret  place  in  the  woodlands. 
There  they  erect  a  tent,  with  a  number  of  poles,  about 
thirty  feet  long  each,  planted  in  a  circle  in  the  ground, 
and  brought  to  a  point  at  the  top.  This  they  cover 
closely  with  boughs  and  leaves,  so  as  to  render  the  inte- 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


219 


rior  quite  impenetrable  to  human  observation  from  the 
outside.  The  entrance  is  by  a  closely-wattled  door, 
equally  impervious  to  human  vision.  This  they  make 
their  temple.  Inside,  from  the  top  of  the  conical  roof,  they 
hang  a  fresh  bufFalo-hide ;  and  below  it,  round  tlie  sides, 
camp-kettles,  and  blankets  :  and  some  arms,  as  the  neces- 
sary accompaniments  in  their  expeditions — scalps,  the 
emblems  of  victory — and  the  skin  of  a  white  buffalo  (a 
most  rare  and  precious  animal), — as  offerings  to  the 
Great  Spirit,  Then  they  commence  the  ceremony  of  in- 
voking- the  aid  of  this  spirit ;  and  consecrating  them- 
selves to  their  future  pursuits,  and  the  general  interest  of 
their  tribe.  Their  principal  ceremonial  is  the  smoking 
of  the  mystic  pipe.  The  person  appointed  as  priest  first 
uses  the  pipe — exhaling  the  vapour  through  his  nostrils 
— then  touches  the  ground,  and  afterwards  his  limbs, 
with  the  lower  part  of  the  bowl,  and  hands  the  pipe  round 
on  the  right  hand,  to  the  rest,  who  do  the  same.  This 
rite  ended,  they  offer  a  solemn  supplication  to  the  Great 
Spirit  for  success  ;  and  make  a  solemn  vow,  that  if  the 
evil  one  do  not  enter  and  enfeeble  them,  they  will  never 
again  return  to  their  relatives  and  tribe,  except  in  gar- 
ments stained  with  the  blood  of  their  enemies.  After 
this,  they  dance  to  the  music  of  a  war-chaunt,  until  they 
become  exiiausted.  They  spend  three  days  and  nights 
in  the  performance  of  these  rites,  without  eating  or  drink- 
ing. From  the  languor  of  body,  and  the  high  excitement 
of  the  imagination,  produced  during  tliis  time,  their  sleep 
must  be  broken,  and  visited  with  visions  adapted  to  their 
views.  They  therefore  imagine  that  tlie  spirits  of  the 
brave  dead,  allowed  to  descend  by  the  Great  Spirit,  visit 
them,  and  direct  them  in  their  future  course  of  opera- 
tions. On  the  morning  of  the  fourth  day,  at  dawn,  they 
sally  forth  from  their  temple  ;  each  separately,  and  by  a 
different  route,  to  some  distant  spot  which  they  had  pre- 
viously agreed  on  as  a  rendezvous ;  where  they  are  to 
concert  their  future  schemes  of  operation.    After  they 


I  ''■ 


220 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


quit  the  temple,  hungry  and  feeble,  they  must  provide, 
every  man  for  himself,  until  they  meet.  If  they  are  un- 
able  to  fulfil  the  terms  of  their  vow  during  the  first  season, 
from  lack  of  an  enemy,  on  whom  to  flesh  their  maiden 
weapons,  they  retire  to  winter-quarters  to  wait  their  op- 
portunity. If  no  human  game  is  on  foot,  they  are  obliged 
to  resort  to  some  ingenious  mode  of  keeping  the  vow ; 
for  the  quicker  their  return  home,  the  higher  their  repu- 
tation. A  solitary  trapper,  well  known  to  the  tribe  to 
which  a  band  of  these  disappointed  noviciates  belonged, 
once  dropped  in  their  way.  They  gave  him  hospitable 
cheer.  But  he  soon  discovered  that  they  began  angrily 
to  debate  among  themselves  as  to  the  propriety  of  shed, 
ding  his  blood.  One  party  contended,  that,  though  he 
was  the  acquaintance  of  their  fathers,  yet  he  was  a  white 
man,  and  all  white  men  were  their  natural  enemies  ;  and 
that  though  he  ate  with  them,  he  did  not  give  them  hos- 
pitality ;  and  besides,  that,  when  they  were  disappointed 
in  the  wilderness,  he  was  thrown  into  their  way  by  the 
Great  Spirit,  in  order  to  enable  them  to  fulfil  the  terms 
of  their  vow,  and  to  return  to  their  homes  and  friends. 
Against  this,  it  was  maintained  that  the  white  men  were 
not  of  necessity  their  natural  enemies,  for  some  of  them 
did  them  good  service; — that  as  this  man  was  called 
brother  and  fi*iend  by  their  fathers,  he  ought  to  be  so 
considered  in  reality ; — that,  as  they  invited  him  to  eat, 
they  pledged  themselves  to  the  same  friendship  towards 
him  as  was  shown  by  their  fathers ; — that  thus  to  lure 
Jiim  to  destruction,  was  not  the  act  of  brave  men,  who 
expected  reward  from  the  Great  Spirit,  or  approbation 
from  their  fathers; — that  if  he  were  at  all  thrown  in 
their  way  by  any  supernatural  agency,  it  was  by  that  of 
the  Evil  one^  who  wished  to  tempt  them,  by  a  cowardly 
and  dishonourable  act,  to  exasperate  the  Great  and  Good 
Spirit  in  slaying  a  friend  and  brother.  A  compromise 
was  at  last  effected  between  the  parties,  by  taking  his 
blood  without  taking  his  life.    A  sharp  flint-lancet  was 


OREGON  TERRITORY, 


221 


applied  to  his  veins,  which  gave  blood  enough  to  dye 
their  garments :  and  thus  they  returned  home  with  their 
vow  fulfilled,  at  least  to  the  letter;  and  the  trapper  re- 
turned to  the  mountains." 

These  temples  are  held  sacred  and  inviolable.  They 
are  suffered  to  remain,  with  all  their  valuable  offerings 
untouched,  as  memorials  of  piety ;  and  it  is  dcatli  tor  any 
one  to  take  from  them  a  single  article. 

Within  the  Colorado  and  the  Great  Salt  Lake,  there 
dwells  a  tribe  which  is  one  of  the  most  degraded  of  the 
whole  human  race,  physically  and  mentally — the  Piutes. 
They  are  entirely  naked — men  and  women :  and  their 
only  food  is  lizards,  snails,  and  wild  roots.  When  tlie 
snow  falls  heavily,  and  these  means  of  subsistence  fail 
them,  for  they  are  utterly  improvident,  they  burrow  holes 
in  the  sides  of  the  sandhills,  and  there  vegetate  in  a  state 
of  somnolent  torpor  till  the  opening  of  the  season.  Then 
they  crawl  abroad,  "anatomies  of  death,"  to  eke  out  their 
wretched  living ;  and,  until  they  acquire  sufficient 
strength  to  forage  at  large,  cat  grass  on  their  hands  and 
knees  like  beasts.  The  trappers  say,  that  after  a  severe 
season,  the  ground  about  their  caverns  may  be  seen 
covered  with  the  bodies  of  famished  dead.  Their  only 
weapons  are  clubs,  and  in  tlic  use  of  even  these  they  are 
unskilful. 


19^ 


Mil 


liiij) 


222 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


CHAPTER  XX. 


■f 


Fori  Hall — Trappers — Buflalo — Shooting  the  rapids — Passage 
from  the  United  States  icross  the  Rocky  Mountains. 

Fort  Hall,  one  of  the  remotest  stations,  situated  in 
the  third  section,  on  the  southeast,  near  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains, was  built  in  1832,  by  Captain  Wyeth,  an  American, 
who  first  tried  the  speculation  of  a  salmon  fishery  at  the 
lower  parts  of  the  Columbia,  and  failed ;  he  then  tried  a 
fur-trading  speculation,  and  also  failed,  from  want  of 
skill,  or  capital,  or  liberality  of  dealing-.  The  Company 
purchased  this  post  from  him  on  liberal  terms ;  and  the 
purchase  to  him  was  almost  equivalent  to  a  gratuity ;  as 
he  had  no  means  of  otherwise  disposing  of  his  stock,  and 
receiving  any  remuneration  for  his  outlay.  At  this 
station,  which  commands  a  wide  range  of  trading  opera- 
tions, clothing  of  every  kind,  provisions,  and  ammunition 
arc  supplied  to  the  Indians  and  the  free  traders ;  as  are 
also  horses,  accoutrements,  and  other  necessaries,  for  that 
wild  and  desolate  country.  So  liberal  is  the  Company, 
and  so  strong  is  the  mutual  confidence  between  the  par- 
ties, that  the  horses  are  given  as  a  loan ;  and  the  other 
articles  are  sold  on  credit,  and  at  a  moderate  charge,  to 
be  paid  for  when  the  skins  are  brought  in,  at  the  proper 
season ;  no  security  being  given  or  required,  except  the 
honour  of  the  recipients  of  the  favours.  So  that  if  the  hunt- 
ers fail,  from  death,  casualty,  or  dishonesty,  to  fulfil  their 
share  of  the  contract,  the  Company  have  no  remedy.  The 
Company,  even  in  this  way — on  credit,  sell  their  goods  at 
one  half  of  what  the  Americans  charge ;  and  pay  much 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


223 


higlicr  for  the  goods  received  than  the  Americans.  This 
liberality  of  treatment,  dnd  the  uniform  justice  of  the 
Company,  are  so  strongly  contrasted  with  the  conduct  of 
the  American  merchants,  that  (to  use  the  words  of  Mr. 
Farnham,  who  was  hospitably  entertained  there  after 
crossing-  the  mountains),  "  even  the  American  trappers 
are  fast  leaving-  the  service  of  their  countrymen,  for  the 
larger  profits,  and  better  treatment,  of  British  employ- 
ment." There  is  also  a  company  of  men  connected  with 
this  fort,  under  the  command  of  an  American  moun- 
taineer, who,  following  various  tribes  in  their  migratory 
expeditions,  in  the  adjacent  Mexican  and  American  do- 
main, collect  whatever  fur  may  chance  to  be  among  them. 
By  these  means,  and  various  others  subsidiary  to  them, 
the  gentleman  in  charge  of  the  establishment  collected,  in 
the  summer  of  1839,  more  than  thirty  packs  of  the  best 
beaver  of  the  mountains. 

Many  stories  are  told  at  the  fort  of  the  strange  adven- 
tures, and  "  hair  breadth  'scapes"  of  the  free  mounted 
trappers.  But  it  may  be  worth  while  to  mention  one, 
which  Richardson,  a  Kentuckyman,  long  known  to  the 
servants  of  the  Company  as  one  of  the  most  astute  and 
dare-devil  traders  of  the  mountains,  used  to  tell.  It  is  his 
boast  that  he  never  carries  provisions  on  the  most  dreary 
and  distant  journeys.  His  good  horse,  his  trusty  rifle, 
his  pistols,  and  his  knife ;  his  steel  flint,  his  traps,  a  coil 
of  cord,  a  wallet,  are  his  only  accompaniments ;  and  his 
only  trust  in  Providence.  Furnished  with  these,  I  have 
heard  him  say,  he  lears  nothing,  over  river,  or  tVozen  lake, 
or  mountain,  or  barren  plain.  Sometimes  he  attaches 
himself  to  a  party ;  and  sometimes  forages  and  hunts 
alone.  He  was  once  out  alone  hunting  buffaloes,  and  at 
the  close  of  day  was  returning  to  his  tent,  when  he  heard 
a  clattering  of  hoofs  behind  him,  and,  upon  looking  back, 
he  observed  three  Blackfeet  Indians,  well  mounted,  in  hot 
pursuit  of  him.  He  immediately  threw  off"  his  cargo  of 
meat  to  lighten  his  horse ;  and  then  urged  onward  the 


^lli 


224 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


t 


f - 


-I- 


animal  to  Iiis  utmost  speed,  in  hopes  to  outstrip  his  pur. 
sucrs.  But  lie  discovered  that  the  enemy  was  gaininj^ 
rapidly  upon  liim,  and  would  soon  have  him  at  their 
mercy.  He  tlien  adopted  an  expedient  as  singularly  in- 
genious as  it  was  desperately  bold.  Drawing  his  long 
scalping  knife,  he  plunged  it  into  his  horse's  neck,  and  at 
once  severed  the  spine.  The  animal  dropped  instantly 
dead,  and  the  determined  hunter,  throwing  himself  behind 
the  fallen  carcass,  prepared  to  meet  his  pursuers.  In  a 
moment  one  of  the  Indians  came  within  range  of  his  rifle, 
and  was  shot  through  the  heart.  The  other  two,  seeing 
the  fate  of  their  companion,  halted  for  a  moment,  and 
then  prepared  to  surround  their  enem)%  But  just  as  the 
first  man  had  sent  his  ball  whistling  by  the  ear  of  Richard- 
son, he  himself  dropped  from  his  horse,  by  a  ball  from 
one  of  Richardson's  long  pistols.  The  third  seeing  this 
rather  dangerous  game  to  play,  whipped  his  horse,  and 
was  soon  out  of  sight.  Richardson  had  then  only  to 
gather  the  fruits  of  his  victory.  He  caught  the  two  In- 
dians' horses — mounted  one — loaded  the  other  with  the 
discharged  cargo  of  meat,  and  returned  home  with  two 
spare  rifles,  and  a  good  stock  of  ammunition. 

The  Indian  wives  of  the  Company's  trappers  can  fre- 
quently hunt  as  well  as  their  husbands — kill  the  elk  and 
bufTalo— trap  the  beaver,  and  use  the  rifle.  Living  so 
much  in  the  open  air,  and  leading  so  active  a  life,  and 
generally  so  well  fed,  they  are  athletic  and  active.  It  is 
no  uncommon  occurrence  to  fmd  them,  on  their  lonely 
excursions  with  their  husbands,  or  even  when  travelling 
with  a  party,  give  birth  to  an  infant  silently,  and  without 
assistance ;  and  in  an  hour  after  they  have  recovered 
from  the  languor,  tie  up  the  infant — hoist  it  on  their 
back,  and  proceed  with  their  usual  occupation. 

The  kind  of  lodges  generally  used  by  the  mountain 
Indians  while  travelling,  and  by  the  trapping  parties,  are 
of  a  conical  form,  composed  of  ten  long  poles,  the  lower 
ends  of  which  are  pointed,  and  driven  into  the  ground, 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


225 


the  upper  blunt,  and  drawn  togellier  by  thongfs.  Above, 
and  around  these  poles,  several  dressed  buffalo-skins, 
sewed  togetlier,  are  stretched,  a  hole  being  left  on  one 
side  for  an  entrance.  They  are  comfortable  and  commo- 
dious ;  and  in  tlic  erection  of  them,  the  Indian  women,  to 
whom  the  office  is  generally  left,  are  singularly  expert. 
A  squaw,  accustomed  to  the  work,  will  erect  and  prepare 
one  for  the  reception  of  her  husband,  while  he  is  remov- 
ing the  burden  from  his  horse.  An  expert  Indian  woman 
has  been  known  to  stretch  a  lodge  in  half  the  time  re- 
quired by  four  white  men  to  erect  another  in  the  neigh, 
bourhood. 

Having  already  quoted  the  best  authority  for  convey- 
ing an  idea  of  tlie  conduct  of  the  American  traders  and 
trappers,  and  of  the  contrast  between  them  and  those  in 
the  service  of  the  Company — i.  f .,  American  authority ; 
I  beg  to  introduce  one  quotation  more.  Mr.  Townsend, 
speaking  of  Mr.  M'Kay*s  party,  already  mentioned,  in 
which  there  were  thirteen  Indians — Perces,  Kayouse, 
and  others — says :  «  After  supper  was  concluded,  we  sat 
ourselves  down  on  a  buffalo-robe,  at  the  entrance  of  the 
tent,  to  see  the  Indians  at  their  evening  devotions.  The 
whole  thirteen  were  soon  collected,  at  the  call  of  one 
whom  they  had  chosen  for  their  chief,  and  seated  with 
rtober,  sedate  countenances  around  a  large  fire.  After  re- 
maining in  perfect  silence  for,  perhaps,  fifteen  minutes, 
the  chief  commenced  a  harangue  in  a  solemn,  impressive 
tone ;  reminding  them  of  the  object  for  which  they  were 
assembled — that  of  worshipping  *  the  Great  Spirit,  who 
made  the  light,  and  the  darkness,  the  earth,  and  the 
water,' — and  then  assured  them,  that  if  they  offered  up 
their  prayers  to  him  with  one  tongue,  they  would  cer- 
tainly be  accepted.  He  then  rose  from  his  squatting  po- 
sition to  his  knees,  and  his  example  was  followed  by  all 
the  others.  In  this  situation  he  commenced  a  prayer, 
consisting  of  short  sentences,  uttered  rapidly,  but  with 
great  apparent  fervour — his  hands  clasped  on  his  breast, 


226 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


(v 


and  liis  eyes  cast  upwards  with  a  beseeching  look  to- 
wards heaven.  At  the  conchision  of  each  sentence,  a 
choral  response  of  a  few  words  was  made,  accompanied, 
frequently,  by  low  moaning".  The  prayer  lasted  about 
twenty  minutes.  After  its  conclusion,  the  chief,  still 
maintaining"  the  same  position  of  body  and  hands,  but 
with  his  head  bent  to  his  breast,  connnenced  a  kind  of 
psalm,  or  sacred  song,  in  which  the  whole  company 
joined.  The  song  was  a  simple  expression  of  a  few 
sounds,  no  intelligible  words  being  uttered.  It  resembled 
the  words  Ho-ha — Ho-ha — Ho-ha — commencing  in  a  low 
tone,  and  gradually  swelling  to  a  full,  round  chorus. 
During  the  song,  the  clasped  hands  of  the  worshippers 
were  moved  rapidly  across  the  breast,  and  their  bodies 
swung  with  great  energy  to  the  time  of  the  music.  The 
chief  ended  the  song  he  had  commenced  by  a  kind  of 
swelling  groan,  which  was  echoed  in  chorus.  It  was 
then  taken  up  by  another,  and  the  same  routine  was 
gone  through.  The  whole  ceremony  occupied  about  an 
hour  and  a  half.  A  short  silence  then  succeeded,  after 
which  each  Indian  rose  from  the  ground,  and  disa;ipeared 
in  the  darkness,  with  a  step  as  noiseless  as  that  of  a 
spectre.  I  think  I  was  never  more  gratified  by  any  ex- 
hibition in  my  life.  The  humble  and  beseeching  looks 
of  the  untutored  beings  who  were  calling  on  their  hea- 
venly Father  to  forgive  their  sins,  and  continue  his 
mercies,  and  the  evident  heartfelt  sincerity  which  charac- 
terized the  whole  scene,  were  truly  affecting  and  impres- 
sive." lie  then  proceeds  to  say,  that,  *'  The  next  day, 
being  the  Sabbath,  our  good  missionary,  Mr.  Jason  Lee 
(he  was  a  Methodist,  and  belonged  to  the  writer's  Ameri- 
can party),  was  requested  to  hold  a  meeting,  with  which 
he  obligingly  complied.  The  greater  part  of  our  men,  as 
well  as  the  whole  of  Mr.  M'Kay*s  party,  including  the 
Indians,  attended.  The  people  were  remarkably  quiet 
and  attentive ;  and  the  Indians  sat  on  the  ground  like 
statues.    Although  not  one  of  them  could  understand  a 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


227 


;  look  to. 
iitence,  a 
»uipanicd, 
ted  about 
liicf,  still 
ands,  but 
I  kind  of 
company 
of  a  few 
•esenibled 
1  in  a  low 
1  cliorus. 
irshippers 
i'lT  bodies 
sic.  The 
i  kind  of 
It  was 
itine  was 
about  an 
ded,  after 
sappeared 
that  of  a 
y  any  ex- 
ing-  looks 
heir  hea- 
:inue  his 
h  charac- 
i  impres- 
lext  day, 
ason  Lee 
's  Ameri- 
ith  which 
r  men,  as 
iding  the 
biy  quiet 
)und  like 
i^rstand  a 


word  that  was  spoken,  they  nevertheless  maintained  the 
most  strict  and  decorous  silrnco,  kneeling'  when  tlie 
preaclier  kneeled,  and  rising  when  ho  rose  ....  Mr.  Lee 
is  a  great  favourite  with  the  men,  deservedly  so,  and 
there  are,  probably,  few  persons  to  whoso  i)reaching'  they 
would  hare  listfunl  loith  so  much  complaisance.  I  have 
often  been  amused  and  pleased  l)y  Mr.  I^ee's  manner  of 
reproving  them  for  the  coarseness,  and  profanity,  of  ex- 
prcssion,  which  is  so  nnii'ersal  among  them." 

Let  the  reader  contrast  this  account  of  Mr.  M'Kay's 
party,  including  the  Indians,  with  the  following  descrip- 
tion, given  six  pages  further,  of  an  American  dcbaucli ; 
bearing-  in  mind  that  the  Company's  men  are  not  allowed 
the  use  of  spirits.  "At  sunrise  the  ^ star-spanfrlcd 
banner''  was  raised  on  the  flag-staff.  All  in  the  camp 
were  allowed  the  free  use  of  liquor ;  and,  as  usual,  the 
consequence  was  a  scene  of  rioting,  noise,  and  fighting 
during  the  whole  day.  Some  became  so  drunk  that  their 
senses  fled  them  entirely ;  and  they  were,  therefore, 
harmless;  but  by  far  the  greater  number  were  suffi- 
ciently under  the  influence  of  the  vile  trash,  to  render 
them  in  their  conduct  disgusting  and  tiger-like.  We 
had  gouging,  biting,  JisticuJJing,  and  stamping,  in  the 
most  scientific  perfection.  Some  even  fired  guns  and 
pistols  at  each  other.  Such  scenes  I  hope  never  to  wit- 
ness again  ;  they  are  absolutely  sickening  ;  and  cause  us 
to  look  on  our  countrymen  with  loathing." 

The  Buffalo,  or  wild  American  ox,  which  formerly 
abounded  in  most  parts  of  North  America,  is  every  day 
becoming  scarcer,  in  proportion  as  civilization  and  culti- 
vation advance.  It  was  found  throughout  the  whole 
range  now  occupied  by  the  United  States,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  that  part  which  lies  east  of  Hudson's  River 
and  Lake  Champlain,  and  of  narrow  and  swampy  strips 
of  coast  on  the  Atlantic  Gulf  of  Mexico.  The  fineness  of 
the  buffalo  wool,  which  within  a  few  years  has  caused  it 
to  become  an  object  of  commerce,  for  the  manufacture  of 


"liii 


228 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


lir 


iiatH  and  clotliHf  is  mentioned  by  Morton,  a  New  England 
Hcttlcr,  in  1037.  He  says,  "  their  fleeces  arc  very  useful, 
bcinjr  a  kind  of  wolle,  as  tine  almost  as  the  wolle  of  the 
beaver."  At  present  they  arc  seldom  seen  east  of  the 
Mississippi,  and  south  of  tiie  St.  Lawrence.  But  they 
urc  found  in  considerable  numbers  west  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  in  the  Columbian  region,  nearly  to  tlie  borders 
of  California,  and  west  of  Lake  VVinipeg,  up  to  the  sixty- 
third  degree.  Their  general  colour  is  dun ;  sometimes 
they  are  spotted.  The  frame  of  the  buffalo  is  larger 
than  tliat  of  tiic  generality  of  domestic  cattle ;  and,  thougi) 
the  fore  parts  are  uncouth,  the  hind  parts  are  handsomely, 
and  rather  delicately  formed.  It  looks  very  formidable, 
from  its  large  shoulder  hump,  its  flowing  wiry  mane, 
and  sweeping  beard,  and  thick  horns,  curved  backwards. 
A  herd  of  buffaloes,  when  pursued,  especially  if  there 
be  a  great  number  of  bulls,  emits  a  strong  odour  of  musk, 
whicli  is  lefl  in  their  wake ;  and  their  feet  make  a  loud 
crackling  noise.  Their  sense  of  smell  is  very  acute. 
Sometimes  they  will  scent  a  man,  if  to  the  windward  of 
them,  at  the  distance  of  two  or  three  miles ;  and  then 
they  will  gallop  away  with  the  greatest  speed.  When 
they  cannot  scent  a  man,  they  will  bear  his  near  ap- 
proach, or  advance  themselves  very  near  him,  without 
any  shyness.  Whether  this  is  to  be  attributed  to  the  im- 
perfect vision  of  the  animal,  whose  eyes  are  obscured  by 
the  great  quantity  of  hair  which  covers  his  face,  or  not, 
it  is  not  easy  to  determine.  Though  buffaloes  and  elk> 
arc  seen  on  the  same  prairies,  they  do  not  herd  together. 
Wolves  commonly  attend  them  ;  and  neither  seem  to 
molest  the  other.  It  is  almost  impossible  to  kill  this  ani- 
mal by  shooting  it  through  the  head  or  chest :  the  head 
is  so  protected  by  a  matting  of  coarse  wiry  hair,  that  a 
ball  becomes  entangled  in  it  before  reaching  the  bone ; 
and  the  chest  is  so  fenced  by  a  bulwark  of  bone,  that  it 
will  require  many  bullets  to  penetrate  it.  Accordingly, 
the  hunters  contrive  to  gallop  by  the  side  of  the  animal. 


ORF  lOS  TERRITORY. 


229 


and  shoot  it,  with  bnllct  or  arrow,  bciiind  the  shoulder- 
blade. 

They  somctiiucH  conofrcjratc  in  such  myriads,  on  tlu' 
prairies  west  of  tli<'  Uocky  Mountains,  that  the  whole 
circle  of  vision  will  u  the  bounds  of  the  horizon  presents 
one  dark  mass  c^'  f'i<  se  animals.  The  bulls  march  at 
the  head  of  the  cows ;  and  it  is  then  dangerous  to  en- 
counter them  :  for  if  they  become  enraged  or  frightened, 
tlie  whole  herd  start  otF  in  a  straight  line,  and  in  close 
order,  regardless  of  all  obstacles ;  and  would  crush  to 
pieces  men,  horses,  and  wagons,  if  in  their  way.  Some 
of  these  bulls  weigh  three  thousand  pounds  each.  When 
there  is  abundance  of  this  sort  of  game,  the  hunters  often 
content  themselves  with  the  choice  parts — the  tongue — 
the  slices  by  the  hump  ribs — and  the  marrow ;  the  car- 
cass being  left  to  the  wolves.  This  waste  often  leads  to 
woful  want.  When  this  animal  is  hunted,  he  becomes 
sometimes  bewildered,  and  exasperated;  and  turns  round 
on  his  pursuers :  then  it  is  inevitable  death  to  come 
within  range  of  his  horns. 

Shooting  the  rapids. — When  a  boat  enters  the  rapids 
of  the  Columbia,  the  bowman  and  the  steersman  quickly 
resign  their  oars,  and  grasp  short  canoe-paddles,  which 
they  hold  down  edgewise,  by  the  boat's  sides,  propping 
themselves,  at  the  same  time,  against  her  gunwale,  to 
steady  her ;  while  the  rowers,  in  the  middle,  ply  their 
oars  most  vigorously :  and  then  the  boat  sweeps  on- 
ward— rising,  or  ducking,  or  spinning  about,  according 
as  she  is  borne  by  the  current  or  the  eddies ;  to  the  great 
terror  of  those  wJio,  for  the  first  time,  are  thus  whirled 
along.  The  success  of  such  a  perilous  adventure  mainly 
depends  on  tiic  steadiness  and  skill  of  the  two  guides,  at 
tiie  stem  and  stern — the  efforts  of  the  middle  men  being, 
mainly,  to  keep  the  boat  buoyant.  The  contrast  between 
the  Canadian  voyageurs  and  the  Indians,  in  performing 
this  f^at,  is  remarkable  and  characteristic :  tliosc  merrily 

20 


tiiilU 


230 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


ch.iimt  ':heir  boat-song ;  but  these  are  as  silent  and  stern 
as  death. 

Passage  from  the  States  through  the  Rocky  Mountains. 
— Though  several  parties  have  penetrated  into  the  Ore- 
gon Territory  from  the  United  States,  through  the  gorges, 
and  over  the  towering  heights,  of  the  Rocky  Mountains, 
yet  it  may  be  safely  asserted,  from  the  concurrent  testi- 
mony of  traders,  trappers,  and  settlers,  who  have  them- 
selves passed  these  natural  barriers,  that  the  difficulties 
are  so  numerous  and  formidable,  and  the  time  necessary 
for  the  passage  so  long,  that  there  is  no  secure,  expedi- 
tious, or  commodious  track,  which  can  be  ever  used  as  a 
highway,  so  as  to  afford  facilities  for  an  influx  of  emi- 
grants over-land.  Several  routes  have  been  tried  of  late ; 
and  each  differs  only  from  the  other  in  the  privations 
which  the  passengers  undergo.  None  but  the  wild  and 
fearless  free-trappers  can  clamber  over  these  precipices, 
and  tread  these  deserts  with  security ;  and  even  these 
are  quitting  them  as  haunts,  and  now  using  them  only 
as  unavoidable  tracks.  It  is  true,  there  have  been  pub- 
lished more  favourable  accounts  within  the  last  year  or 
two  by  parties  who  have  made  the  journey  safely,  and 
who  encourage  others  to  make  a  similar  experiment. 
But  these  accounts  are  in  such  a  spirit  of  bravado,  and 
accompanied  with  expressions  of  thankfulness  by  the 
parties  for  their  own  success,  that  they  are  indirect  proofs 
of  the  difficulty  and  danger  of  the  undertaking,  and  of 
the  utter  hopelessness  of  such  a  route  for  general  pur- 
poses. For  hundreds  of  miles,  the  several  tracks  present 
nothing  but  frightful  barrenness  under-foot,  and  over- 
head, scorching  heat,  or  piercing  cold.  The  country, 
even  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  is  broken  with  tower- 
ing cliffs,  deep  ravines,  and  sunken  streams,  from  which 
the  traveller  cannot  draw  a  drop  to  allay  his  burning 
thirst;  and  tl'3  soil  is  either  sandy,  in  which  he  sinks  at 
every  step ;  or  of  a  black,  rugged  stone,  which  tears  his 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


231 


feet.  The  travellers  have  been  obliged  to  feed  on  the 
lean  carcasses  of  their  animals,  which  have  died  from 
hunger,  thirst,  or  fatigue.  Farnham  says,  that  his  party 
were  at  last  obliged  to  kill  their  universal  favourite  and 
pet — their  dog ;  and  economize  his  flesh.  He  furtlier 
says,  that  during  eight  days*  journey — and  he  had  pro- 
Deeded  with  the  expedition  of  on^s  travelling  for  life — he 
had  not  met  with  a  single  acre  of  land  capable  of  pro- 
ducing grain  or  vegetables. 

Another  American  traveller — Townsend,  says :  "  Our 
only  food  was  the  dried,  crumbling,  meat  which  we  car- 
ried ;  and  chewed  like  biscuits  as  we  travelled.  There 
are  two  reasons  by  which  the  extreme  thirst  which  the 
wayfarer  suffers,  in  these  regions,  may  be  accounted  for 
— first,  the  intense  heat  of  the  sun,  upon  the  open  and 
exposed  plains;  and  secondly,  the  desiccation  to  which 
every  thing  here  is  subject.  The  air  feels  like  the  breath 
of  a  sirroco ;  tlic  tongue  becomes  parched  and  horny ; 
and  the  eyes,  mouth,  and  nose  are  incessantly  assailed 
by  the  fine,  pulverized  lava,  which  rises  from  the  ground 
with  the  least  breath  of  air.  Bullets,  pebbles  of  chalce- 
dony, and  pieces  of  smooth  obsidian,  were  in  great  requi- 
sition :  almost  every  man  was  mumbling  some  of  these 
substances,  in  an  endeavour  to  assuage  his  burning 
thirst."  The  lead  bullets,  and  the  other  substances  which 
they  chewed  were  for  the  purpose  of  producing  spittle, 
which  they  would  swallow  to  prevent  inflammation  and 
death. 

There  are,  however,  certain  declinations  called  gaps 
through  which  (though  with  great  labour),  a  tedious,  and 
dreary  passage  can  be  effected.  The  most  frequent  of 
these  is  the  most  northern,  between  Mounts  Brown  and 
Hooker,  through  which  the  Company's  servants  pass  in 
their  journey  from  Columbia  to  Hudson's  Bay.  This  is, 
comparatively,  an  easy  passage.  There  is  another  be- 
tween the  head- waters  of  the  Flathead  and  Marias  Rivers- 


232 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


Another  between  Lewis  and  Clarke's  River,  in  the  Ore- 
gon,  and  the  sources  of  the  Missouri.  And  another, 
which  is  very  important,  lies  between  Long's  Mountains, 
and  the  Wind  River  cluster. 


-t 


J'^ 


CHAPTER  XXI. 

Missionaries.  ^ 

Hav/ng  already,  in  various  parts  of  this  work,  when 
describing  the  customs  of  the  natives,  prepared  the 
reader  for  forming  a  judgment  of  the  religious  tendencies 
of  their  minds;  and  shown  their  aptitude  for  the  recep- 
tion  of  Christian  truth,  I  beg  to  offer  a  few  remarks  on  the 
culpable  neglect  of  the  mental,  moral,  and  religious  cul. 
ture  evinced  by  the  missionary  societies  of  Great  Britain, 
and  by  successive  governments,  towards  those  people  who 
are,  in  truth,  de  facto.,  however  questionable  it  may  be 
that  they  are  dejure^  subjects  of  the  British  crown. 

The  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  it  cannot  be  doubted, 
exercises  almost  absolute  sway  ever  the  whole  of  the 
northwest  of  America,  a*^  d,  it  may  be  averred,  also  over 
the  Oregon  country.  Their  power  is  the  only  civilized 
power  known  to  the  Indians  which  they  show  any  dispo- 
sition to  yield  to,  or  even  respect.  Independently  of  the 
vast  and  complex  machinery  of  internal  and  coasting 
commerce,  which  they  have  set  to  work  throughout  those 
almost  boundless  tracts — a  machinery  reduced  to  the 
most  perfect  and  unerring  regularity — and  indepen- 
dently of  the  sway  which  their  numerous  servants, 
scattered  far  and  wide,  and  intermingling  with  the  na- 
tives, can  give  the  Company — the  strict  honesty  of  their 
dealings  (for  they  are  now  become  too  powerful  and  too 
wealthy  to  be  placed  under  any  necessity  of  practising 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


233 


either  fraud  or  oppression  to  carry  on  their  trade,  and  too 
humane  and  prudent  to  resort  to  these  vile  American  ex- 
pedients), and  their  humane  endeavours  to  lift,  as  far  as 
lies  within  their  individual  scope,  the  natives  from  their 
prostration  and  ignorance  to  the  rank  of  Christianized  and 
civilized  men — endeavours  which  the  natives  are  sagacious 
enough  to  perceive,  and  honest  enough  to  acknowledge 
(speaking  generally),  have  struck  the  roots  of  their  power 
deep  into  the  hearts  of  the  aborigines. 

The  Russians  and  the  Americans  are  the  only  two 
nations  that  come,  even  remotely,  in  contact  with  the 
British  in  those  countries ;  and  both  are  equally  powerless 
and  uninfluential  with  the  natives.  The  Russians,  for  the 
most  part,  confine  themselves  to  their  own  territory — a 
strip  of  sea  coast,  beyond  the  54^  of  north  latitude.  Even 
here  thy  can  hardly  be  said  to  exercise  direct  power,  or 
even  to  have  much  influence.  They  have  posts,  it  is  true, 
stationed  there ;  one  especially  at  Sitska,  in  the  Kamtshcat. 
ka  country — a  large  one,  which  is  worthy  of  some  notice, 
and  to  which  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  by  a  com- 
mercial contract,  entered  into  lately,  supply  provisions. 
They,  however,  are  barely  traders ;  carrying  off  the  pro- 
ducts of  the  country,  without  t.king  much  interest  in  the 
condition  of  the  natives  :  neither  caring  for  them,  or  cared 
for  by  them.  The  Americans  hold  a  position  inferior 
still ;  for  they  have  not  one  inch  of  land  from  California 
to  the  Pole — from  the  Rocky  Mountains  to  the  Pacific,  to 
which  they  have  undisputed  right ;  and  not  one  single 
trading  post  or  station  along  that  immeasurable  range  of 
coast  and  country.  They  do  trade,  it  is  true,  as  well  as 
they  can,  throughout  this  vast  expanse.  But  then,  from 
their  principles  of  conducting  trade,  and  the  domineering 
disposition  evinced  by  their  irresponsible  traders,  they 
have  lost  all  hold  of  the  respect  and  confidence  of  the 
natives.  It  may  be,  therefore,  averred,  without  any 
chance  of  effective  contradiction,  that  while  the  British 
possess   substantial   and  enduring   power,  through  the 


ji) 


234 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


agency  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  the  Americans 
have,  not  to  say  a  shadow  of  poicer^  but  they  have  not 
even  influence  with  the  natives — from  north  to  south — 
from  cast  to  west ;  for  they  are  looked  on  by  them  with 
distrust  and  hatred.  Such,  then,  being  the  real  position 
of  the  relative  parties,  and  such  the  hold  which  the 
British  have  over  the  natives,  it  is  deeply  to  be  lamented 
that  no  general  and  effectual  course  has  been  adopted  to 
bring  them  within  the  pale  of  Christianity  and  civilization. 
Perhaps  on  the  whole  surface  of  the  earth  there  is  not  a 
wider  and  more  easy  field  for  the  operation  of  the  mis- 
sionaries, or  one  from  which  a  richer  harvest  could  be 
reaped.  The  natives  are,  generally,  of  a  yielding  and 
plastic  character ;  and  the  principles  of  their  belief,  ab- 
stractedly from  their  various  superstitions,  harmonize  in 
some  measure  with  the  elementary  truths  of  the  Bible. 

Without  enumerating  the  various  points  in  their  natural 
theology,  or  giving  a  repetition  of  the  several  heads  of 
creed  professed  by  the  different  tribes,  it  will  be  quite 
enough  for  my  purpose  to  say,  Ihat  they  believe  in  the 
existence  of  a  great  superintending  Spirit,  who  created 
the  world  and  all  beings  on  it,  rational  and  irrational ; 
who  still  exercises  a  paternal  power  and  supervision  over 
his  creatures — that  they  believe  in  the  existence  of  a 
subordinate  spirit,  whose  motives  are  evil,  and  whose 
dwelling  is  in  fire,  and  whose  whole  aim  is  to  neutralize 
the  beneficence  of  the  great  Good  Spirit  towards  his 
earthly  creatures,  and  to  tempt  these  creatures  to  evil — 
that  they  believe  in  the  immortality  of  the  soul,  and  in  a 
state  of  future  rewards  and  punishments,  commensurate 
with  their  earthly  merits  or  demerits — that  they  believe 
these  merits  consist  in  the  faithful  discharge  of  all  the 
domestic  and  social  duties — that  they  believe  it  is  incum- 
bent on  them  to  offer  daily  homage  to  this  Good  Spirit — 
that  they  believe  this  Spirit  sometimes  condescends,  on 
great  occasions,  to  hold  converse  with  their  great  and 
good  men,  or  communicate  his  will  by  nocturnal  visions. 
Some  of  them  go  farther,  and  believe  in  the  fallen  state  of 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


235 


man;  some  in  a  subordinate  nsfcnt,  identified  with  the 
Good  and  Great  Spirit,  doing  his  earthly  work.  Some, 
again,  in  their  belief  approach  the  historical  truths  of  the 
Old  Testament.  They  believe  that  this  world  was,  in  its 
primeval  state,  a  fluid  mass,  enveloped  in  darkness,  and 
yielding  no  living  or  growing  thing — animal  or  vegetable ; 
but  that  the  Great  Spirit  descended  upon  it  in  the  shape 
of  a  huge  bird,  and,  by  brooding  over  it,  gave  it  consis- 
tency and  solidity — created  the  sun  and  moon,  and  all 
animated  things  on  the  earth.  (This  is  the  scriptural 
account :  in  which  the  words — "  the  Spirit  of  God  moved 
on  the  surface  of  the  waters,"  strictly  means,  »'  the  Spirit 
of  God  brooded  (like  a  bird)  on  the  surface  of  the  waters") 
— that  there  soon  arose  a  general  corruption  among  man- 
kind ;  and  then  men  lived  a  long  time ; — that  there  was  a 
general  deluge,  which  swept  away  almost  all  men  and 
animals — that  some  fpw  were  saved — that  after  that  men 
became  wicked  again  ;  and  then  our  ancestors  came  from 
the  rising  sun,  a  great  distance. 

It  deserves  to  be  noticed,  that,  before  the  conquest  of 
Canada,  the  Jesuit  missionaries  propagated,  to  a  vast  ex- 
tent, the  principles  of  the  Christian  faitli  among  the 
remotest  tribes :  and  did  it  successfully.  And,  had  not 
the  conquest  taken  place,  there  would  have  now  been 
diffused,  to  the  most  inaccessible  heights  and  deepest 
dells  of  the  continent,  Christianity — perhaps  Christianity 
in  a  bad  form,  but  yet  Christianity  in  all  its  elements — 
better  than  no  Christianity  at  all.  I  regret  to  be  obliged 
to  state,  that  since  the  conquest,  but  little,  comparatively, 
has  been  done  for  the  conversion  of  the  natives  in  the 
interior,  and  west.  This  is  a  complaint  made  by  others. 
It  is  true,  there  is  a  school  for  missionaries,  at  Red  River 
settlement ;  but  it  is,  necessarily,  on  too  limited  a  scale 
for  general  purposes. 

I  have  heard  often,  from  our  voyageurs  and  trappers, 
that  they  saw  rude  crosses  painted  on  lowly  and  deserted 
huts,  or  cut  on  trees,  in  the  interior  of  the  country,  one 
thousand  miles  beyond  the  bounds  of  civilization.    To 


236 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


these  emblems  there  is  always  a  devotional  reverence 
paid,  for  there  is  associated  with  them  a  traditionary 
record  in  the  Indian  mind,  that  they  were  the  work  of 
*«  the  good  white  fathers,  who,  unlike  other  white  men, 
never  robbed  or  cheated  them." 

But,  exclusively  of  the  humanity  of  converting  the 
Indians  to  Christianity  on  sober  and  rational  principles, 
there  is  a  high  principle  of  state  policy  involved  in  it. 
If  the  natives  were  converted,  through  the  instrumentality 
of  the  Church  of  England,  or  even  of  British  dissenters, 
to  Christianity,  tiiey  would,  en  masse^  attach  themselves 
to  Great  Britain.  But  as  England  has  not  used  this 
powerful  lever  to  move  them,  and  as  they  are  left  through 
this  culpable  apathy  and  neglect  to  the  influence  of  the 
Papal  power,  (which  has  already,  within  a  few  months, 
inducted  a  bishop  to  the  Oregon  district,  under  the  title 
of  »*  Bishop  of  Philadelphia,  in  partibus  ir^fidelium") 
and  to  the  dissenters  that  swarm  into  the  country  from 
tlie  United  States,  the  British  tenure  of  their  affections 
must  soon  be  enfeebled. 

The  American  missionaries  arc  used  by  the  American 
government,  and  fairly  represented  by  the  American 
writers,  as  political  instruments,  in  exercising  their  in- 
fluence  with  the  natives,  to  attach  them  to  republican 
institutions,  and  to  make  them  the  passive  recipients  of 
all  sorts  of  anti-British  antipathies  :  and  thus  the  Ameri- 
cans hope  to  recover  the  position  in  the  country  which 
they  lost  by  their  want  of  integrity,  or  energy,  as 
traders.  This  is  well  worth  the  consideration  of  the 
British  government,  and  the  British  Missionary  Societies. 
I  shall  conclude  by  repeating,  that  there  is  not,  in  the 
world,  a  finer  or  an  easier  field  for  the  holy  work  of 
Christian  conversion. 


first  Assocki/io/i  of  .gys.v;^,.-  .  . 


CONTENTS 


reverence 
.ditionary 
3  work  of 
liite  men, 

rting  the 
)rinciples, 
ved  in  it. 
mentality 
lissenterSf 
bemsclves 
used  this 
ft  through 
ice  of  the 
V  months, 
sr  the  title 

mtry  from 
affections 

American 
American 

their  in- 
epublican 

ipients  of 
le  Ameri- 
try  which 
aergy,  as 
Dn  of  the 

Societies, 
ot,  in  the 
work  ot 


OF  THE 


HOME  &  TRAYELLER'S 


^-■i, 


LIBRARY. 


\>'S" 


No.L^TEXAS   AND   THE   GULF  OF    MEXICO;   OR, 

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Houstoun.    With  Illustrations.    Price  25  Cents. 

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9 


NOTICES  OF  THE  PRESS. 

••  Home  and  Traveller's  Library.— Messrs.  Zieber  &  Co. 
arc  men  of  enterprise,  uprightness  and  goaheadism.  They 
do  business  on  the  correct  principle,  viz. — quick  sales  and 
short  profits,  and  make  money  of  course.  The  next  enter- 
pri.ee  of  theirs  is  to  be  •  The  Home  and  Traveller's  Library,' 
— a  series  of  books,  in  the  cheap  form,  for  general  circulation 
among  all  classes.  They  are  to  be  valuable,  interesting,  and 
agreeable.  And  the  Editor  is  a  guarantee.  He  is  exceedingly 
well  qualified.  This  series  will  be  decidedly  popular." — Sat. 
Courietc, 


>-,I: 


-!.'  •■  -.  ': 


1  V 


■  A 


NEW  BOOKS. 


\'\  x.r 


TEXAS  AND  THE  GULF  OF  MEXICO. 

Mrs.  Houstoun's  excellent  and  entertaining  work  entitled 
••  Texas  and  Mexico,  or  Yachting  in  the  New  World,"  has  been 
published  in  a  very  pretty  and  neat  style,  by  Messrs.  Zieber 
&Co. 

We  perceive  that  this  is  the  first  of  a  series  of  semi-monthly 
publications  to  be  entitled  "The  Home  and  Traveller's  Libra- 
ry," and  from  a  knowledge  of  the  Editor's  capabilities  we 
cannot  doubt  that  the  selection  of  books  to  be  included  in  the 
'•  Library"  will  be  of  the  best  and  most  improving  character. 
In  these  days  when  the  stores  are  filled  with  cheap  and  trashy 
publications,  the  fruit  of  an  unparalleled  facility  of  production, 
a  good  hand  regulated  by  a  properly  constituted  and  trained 
mind  is  absolutely  necessary  to  keep  our  reading  confined  only 
to  the  good  to  the  exclusion  of  the  bad.  This  semi-monthly 
series  of  publications  will  no  doubt  be  a  proper  means  of 
affording  good  reading. —  V.  S.  Gazette, 


I 


■.•  •>;?-■ 


,M 


THE  EiNGLISIIWOxMAN  IN  EGYFr. 


■■■'>-■■  BY  MR«,  rOOLE. 

This  is  the  title  of  an  interesting  series  of  "  Letters  from  a 
Hareem,"  (the  old  word  harem  is  said  to  be  obsolete,)  pub- 
lished by  G.  B.  Zicber  and  Co.  Some  of  the  letters  are  dated 
1844;  they  are  written  by  Mrs.  Poole,  a  sister  of  E.  W.  Lano, 
so  favourably  known  in  England  and  this  country  for  his 
*'  Modern  Egyptians,"  and  his  new  version  of  the  "  Arabian 
Nights."  Mrs.  Poole  had  access  to  the  harecms  of  the  Pasha 
ond  other  noble  Mohammedans,  as  well  as  to  the  Mosques. 
For  this  she  was  indebted  not  only  to  her  connexion  with 
eminent  Europeans  resident  at  Cairo,  but  to  her  adoption  of 
the  Turkish  dress  and  manners.  She  describes  her  mode  of 
eating,  after  the  custom  of  the  country,  in  a  very  amusing 
manner. — NeaVs  Saturday  Gazette. 

The  description  of  the  Pyramids  in  the  concluding  chapters 
of  the  Englishwoman  in  Egypt,  is  remarkably  clear,  especially 
illustrated  as  it  is  by  drawings.  We  have  learned  much  more 
of  the  subject  by  reading  it,  than  we  did  from  one  of  Mr. 
Gliddon's  lectures  on  the  same  subject. — Berks  and  Schuylkill 
Journal. 

From  a  Review  of  the  Englishwoman  in  Egypt,  in  Blackwood's 

Magazine. 

Part  of  the  work  is  taken  from  the  MS.  notes  of  Mrs.  Poole's 
brother,  E.  W.  Lane,  author  of  the  Modern  Egyptians ;  but 
the  authoress  can  very  well  afford  to  rest  her  claim  to  popu- 
larity on  her  own  merits ;  and,  we  prefer  to  follow  her  in  her 
own  peculiar  sphere,  into  those  mysterious  recesses  of  an 
oriental  establishment,  whither  no  male  footstep  can  ever 
penetrate.  Mrs.  Poole  is  probably  the  first  English  lady  who 
has  been  admitted,  not  merely  as  a  passing  visiter,  but  as  a 
privileged  friend,  into  the  hareems  of  those  of  the  highest 


it  I 


A\ 


rank  in  the  Egyptian  capita).  We  find  her  threading  the  nar* 
row  and  crowded  thoroughfares  of  Cairo,  borne  aloft  on  the 
"  high  ass,"  (the  usual  mode  of  conveyance  for  morning  calls,) 
and  are  introduced  to  t!<e  wives  and  daughters  of  the  viceroy, 
and  even,  (in  the  hareem  of  Habeeb  EfTendi,)  to  ladies  of  the 
imperial  house  of  Othman,  in  the  ease  and  disinvoltura  of  their 
domestic  circles,  amid  that  atmosphere  ofdolcefar  niente  and 
graceful  etiquette,  in  which  the  hours  of  an  oriental  princess 
appear  to  be  habitually  passed. 

With  the  exception  of  Lady  Mary  Wortley  Montague's 
piquant  sketches  of  the  Turkish  hareems  and  their  inmates, 
and  the  singular  narrative  of  her  personal  experience  of  life 
in  an  Indian  Zenana,  by  Mrs.  Meet  Hassan  Ali^  we  know  no 
female  writer  who  has  enjoyed  such  opportunities  for  the  de- 
lineation of  the  scenes  of  domestic  privacy  in  the  East,  and 
who  has  so  well  availed  herself  of  them,  as  the  sister  of  JV/an- 
soor  Ejfendi,  in  the  pages  before  us." 

"  This  delightful  volume  is  in  all  respects  what  it  should  be  ; 
full  of  information  and  truth,  and  free  from  pedantry  ;  all  feel- 
ing of  tediousness  is  lost  in  the  single  wish  that  there  was 
more"— Smith's  Weekbj  Volume.  ..* 

"The  excellent  little  book  which  results  from  Mrs.  Poole's 
observations,  gives  us,  in  a  few  pages,  more  information  on 
the  grand  mystery  uf  Oriental  homes,  than  we  have  ever 
been  able  to  draw  from  other  sources." — London  Quarterly 
Review. 

"All  the  men  in  Europe  together  could  never  have  gained 
or  imparled  the  information  in  this  book." — London  Morning 
Post. 

'*  Emphatically  the  book  of  a  Zac?v." — Frazer.  " 

•'  Informing,  sprightly,  and  entertaining." — New  Monthly, 

"  The  first  good  book  on  Egypt  by  a  lady." — Tait.  .   . 


"  Molt  agreeable  and  entertaining.'* — Chamber $. 

"  These  interesting  letters  are  written  by  Mrs.  Poole,  a  sis- 
ter of  E.  W.  Lane,  so  favourably  known  in  England  and  thin 
country  for  his  '  Modern  Egyptians,'  and  his  new  version  of 
the  Arabian  Nights.  Mrs.  Poole  had  access  to  the  Harems  of 
the  Pasha  and  other  noble  Mahommedans,  as  well  us  to  the 
Mosques." — NeaVs  Saturday  Gazette. 

**  A  series  of  lady-like,  chaste,  and  yet  extremely  critical 
observations  on  the  present  state  of  Egypt." — GUddon's  Lec- 
tures on  Egypt. 


NIGHTS  OF  THE  ROUND  TABLE.   OR  STORIES  OF 
AUNT  JANE  AND  HER  FRIENDS. 

BY  THE  AUTHOR  OF  CL.iN  ALBIN. 

Zieber&Co.   Philad. 

"  This  book,  the  third  of  the  series  entitled  '  The  Home  and 
Traveller's  Library,'  is  a  collection  of  pleasant  stories,  of  a 
kind  calculated  to  do  good,  as  well  as  to  amuse.  This  volume 
strengthens  the  good  opinion  already  formed  of  the  library.  If 
the  publishers  proceed  as  they  have  commenced,  they  will 
give  families  one  of  the  most  valuable  cabinets  of  miscellane- 
ous reading  ever  printed." — Saturday  Post. 

"The  Nights  of  the  Round  Table  exhibit  so  much  fine, 
healthy  t'ecling,  forcible  delineation  of  character,  beauty  of 
description  and  strength  of  thought,  all  clothed  in  elegant 
and  nervous  language." — Aberdeen  Herald. 

"Mrs.  Johnstone's  Tales  may  be  generally  characterized  as 
carrying  instruction  wMth  amusement.  Many  of  them  contain 
striking  pictures  of  virtuous  poverty,  and  of  self-denial  in  the 
middle  ranks  of  life,  drawn  in  a  piquant  and  pleasing  stylo. 
We  reckon  it  no  small  recommendation  of  these  tales,  that  in 


tliem  the  common' pl.ice  virtues  of  every-day  life  obtain  more 
justice  than  in  most  novf^ls  of  the  day." — Dundee  Ailiertiser. 


skl:tciies  of  imposturk,  deception  and 

credulity. 


)  r.a 


•'This  is  a  work  of  no  common  interest  and  research;  it 
depicts  the  follies  of  the  human  mind  in  its  various  stages  of 
ignorance  ;  a  remarkable  feature  of  an  enlightened  and  scien- 
tific age  is  the  disappeara'  ^e  of  many,  if  not  most  of  the  mon- 
strous beliefs  and  modes  of  deception  under  which  our  race 
has  lived  and  been  imposed  upon.  It  is  a  work  not  merely 
for  the  gratification  of  the  present  moment,  hut  one  whif'h 
will  be  read  by  successive  generations  with  interest  and  m- 
struction." — Smith's  Weekly  Volume. 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  SERVICE  IN  CHINA. 

BY  CAPTAIN  ARTHUR  CUNYNGHAME. 

Price  25  Cents. 

"  Interspersed  throughout  are  capital  anecdotes,  comic  sto- 
ries, and  amusing  personal  adventures;  but  there  is  a]^'o  a 
good  deal  of  political  information  communicated  carelessly,  as 
if  the  writer  was  not  anxious  to  show  that  he  has  th  ught 
much  of  the  subject.  All,  therefore,  who  would  peruse  the 
most  vivid  and  animating  account  of  the  splendid  closing 
scenes  of  the  Chinese  war,  must  necessarily  resort  to  aptain 
Cunynghame's  volumes." — Foreign  Quarterly  Review. 


o!)rain  more 
Adverliser. 


J' 


>N  AND 


research;  it 
us  stages  of 
d  and  scien- 
of  the  mon- 
3h  our  race 
not  merely 
one  whi>h 
est  and  in- 


SMITH'S 


FORTOWN«.  COUNTRY 


I     PHILADELPHIA,    f 


HINA. 


comic  sto- 
3  is  aho  a 
relessly,  as 
as  th  ughl 
perusse  the 
lid  closing 
to    'aptain 

CM). 


GRGAT  LITERARY  CNTBRPRISE. 

BOOKS  BY  MAIL! 

The  ><  Waldle^'  System  Revived  by  tlie  Original 

Kdltor. 

The  cash  vystetii  oariicd  to  its  iMsnost-  'i'i)it  by  i  rpduclion 
.  *'  •.      otone  »ialf. 

TEN  COPIES  FOa  ^2  50  PER  ANNUM  EACH  ! !        '  *  " 

On  the  fiif.t  of  •Aanua'-}.  l<m')  wis*  con.r.ienccd  r.t  Philadel- 
phia the  piroi:cati...i  of  SMITH'S  VVKCKLV  VOLUMK,  a 
Select  Circulating  Library  for  town  and  country,  on  the  plan 
of  VValdie's,  at  a  greatly  reduced  price,  of  a  large  size  andjnew 
type. — Conducted  by  the  original,  and  for  the  first  seven  years, 
the  sole  editor  of  VValdie's  Library,  and  published  by  his  son. 

The  plan  embraces  the  publication  of  the  newest  and  best 


8 


books  in  the  various  departments  of  Travels,  Voyages,  Talepi 
Sketches,  Biography  and  Memoirs ;  in  short,  the  whole  range 
of  polite  literature,  and  including  translations  made  expressly 
for  the  work. 

TERMS. 

"  The  Weekly  Volume,  or  Select  Circulating  Libra- 
ry," is  printed  on  a  double  super-royal  sheet,  sixteen  pages 
quarto,  three  columns  on  each,  and  mailed  weekly  with  great 
care,  so  as  to  carry  with  perfect  safety  to  the  most  distant 
post  office. 

%*  Journal  of  Belles  Lettres.  By  thus  increasing  the 
size  of  the  paper,  we  occupy,  without  decreasing  the  quantity 
of  book-matter,  the  two  first  pages  as  a  Journal  of  Belles 
Lettres,  formerly  printed  as  a  cover. 

The  whole  will  be  printed  and  finished  with  the  same  care 
and  accuracy  as  book  work.  The  price  is  four  dollars  for  fifty- 
two  numbers  of  sixteen  quarto  pages  each. 

A  club  of  three  for  ten  dollars,  or  $3  33  each. 

A  club  of  five  for  fifteen  dollars,  or  $3  each. 

A  club  of  ten  for  twenty-five  dollars,  or  92  50  each. 

But  in  no  case  can  the  publication  be  forwarded,  unless  the 
order  is  accompanied  with  the  remittance. 

A  specimen  number  will  be  forwarded,  without  charge,  to 
all  who  reques.t  it, ^postage  pai/i.,  /    ,  .  ; 

-     LiOYp  p.  SMITH,  Publisher. 

No.  19  St.  James'  Street,  running  from  6th  to  7th,  above 

....     11     »      . ' 

Market,  vnj  di^ectlv.in  the  ,ear  of  St.  JdinesV  Church. 
Phnladelfihia„18;4,>. ^ "       '     ' 


iges,  Talep; 
whole  range 
le  expressly 


'ING  Libra- 

rteen  pages 

with  great 

nost  distant 

reasing  the 

lie  quantity 

of  Belles 

same  care 
rs  for  fifty- 


h. 
unless  the 

charge,  to 


iblisher. 

th,  above 
•ch. 


